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Snow blower replacement…

It’s been a while since I did any Horse wrenching. Looking around at my mess of a storage barn, and the fact that I need to store Norman and the toy hauler inside for the winter, I decided to thin a little more herd. I pulled this project out and made it more stock than project form, and sold it out quick.

This is my 1975 C160 Automatic. I have four oversized tires all fluid filled. There's 255 lbs of FLUID ALONE. I also have another 130 lbs of steel weight in the rear. There's also HD Ice Chains. And the plow blade itself is a bunch of added weight. That's 60" wide and the edge is from a skidsteer. With me on it this tractor weighs over 1400 lbs. This is Trina's 867 Pigpen. It has a 45 lbs weight out front. Snowblower front tires. The rears are oversized and fluid filled with 7, 7.5 gallons each. That's 160 + lbs of fluid. She also has 130 lbs of steel and similar chains AND Limited Slip Differential. BOTH of these tractors are nearly unstoppable within reasonable work limits.

No no no... it was the amazing bloodline, pure Black Hood, and the stellar line of previous owners that made it irresistible ...

Apparently nobody’s been selling much! The C-85/C-6.5/GT-6.5 (project thread here) was returned to stock-ish the other night, and sold in one day locally. The new owner had a 5 year old snow blower that a squirrel had chewed every wire and fuel hose off of while in storage this year, all under the surveillance of 6 dogs! I’m glad that it is going to a home where it will be enjoyed and cherished. I’d never even taken it for a joyride around the property, in the year and a half I owned it… Even with that rusty fender pan, it sure is a good looking black hood @SylvanLakeWH!

One word: chains !!

It’s all you guys fault! He’s a Snow and WheelHorse Junkie! 😂😂 There is maybe 1/2” and he ran outside to try out his plow. @TonyToro Jr. IMG_5062.MOV

Have a Super Day Bob

Kinda like plowing the frost.

Hooked my newly acquired 48” plow to my c-121. Changed the plug and put chains on it. 2-4” forecasted for Wednesday into Thursday. We’ll see 🤞 F9814B34-E3EA-469B-9CDA-BA41430F878A.mov

Happy Birthday @Racinbob, we are all glad you were born.

Just a little more progress on the wheels and hubs. The false bearing cover looks pretty tidy I think. The front axle is now mounted and the steering set up. It's starting to look a little like a motor vehicle now rather than just a chassis. I will focus on checking the electric drive train is all working before I start building up the body work. I'm really enjoying the build and there is so much more I can do to detail it. Maybe a tool box and tools. Mick

Barbs are the way to go. Like I said, I have barbed chains, no weights, no fluid, and I basically have to be on ice with a good head of snow and no momentum to get stuck.

Love your universal drill! Damn that came out great!

@Canoetom85 https://www.ebay.com/itm/283925877502 hitch pin clip on pto cone drive is missing ! the puter round swing arm is not connected to the cone driven section ! center hole shaft cone about 9 o clock , outside swing connection , should share that , hitch pin clip , hiding in plane site , those 2 horizontal holes are connected with the hitch pin clip , pete

Posted in a different place but I can throw a pic on here too.

Holy crap Bob you must be an old goat! Didn't I just post this pic!?!?!? Happy Happy

I have had muffler bolts break as well. I made up this plate that bolts to the intake boss and holds a magnetic drill. I can now drill the hole centered which is very difficult to do when drilling a steel bolt out of aluminum. Once drilled the hole can be properly tapped and as lynnmore said, use bolts as long as possible with never seize applied.

You should have been spraying penetrating oil on all of the fasteners at least twice a day for the past 25 days for a total of 50 times. The exhaust should be glass beaded and painted with Rustoleum high temperature spray paint. You can test the intake for leaks, once it is off, by sealing off the carb mounting surface and filling it with gas or diesel fuel. I believe that most are not a problem. You buy the gaskets from onanparts.com and forget the local guy that has no clue, nearly all Onans of this size use the same gaskets. The 16HP intake might fit but will have no vacuum fitting if you need one. A 1500 hour engine needs the valves adjusted for the second time, I'm sure it missed the first. Be sure to bottom tap all of the intake and exhaust mounting holes and use bolts that are as long as possible without bottoming out, you may need to cut custom lengths.

If I did not read this already, tire width has a lot to do with this. @BuffaloD200 your D series likely has 12” wide tires. @ebinmaine’s girl BBT has 8” wide tires I think? The ones in the video above are 6” wide. All of that, considering contact patch on the ground, creates a PSI to the ground. More PSI to the ground (not tire pressure) = more traction. Check this video out, to help explain the difference. The wide tire provides so much flotation, it sacrifices traction.

These chains give the biggest bumpiest ride I’ve ever experienced on a tractor! I was so excited to run them around at the big show, in the midst of our excitement of getting it running, @Tractorhead assumed my kidneys would thank me a took them off I made sure to stick ‘em back on for the maiden voyage That was before the added steel weight. Now I can barely move the tractor around my shop floor without it being under it’s own power!

Weight and chains. I prefer the rubber chains. They work best on the five paved driveways I plow and they don't leave any marks. When plowing with the steel chains I find I can only plow downhill on the pavement. I use the 2 link Vee Bar chains on ice and hard packed snow and on the stone roads that I plow.

I'm damn proud to share in that "blame"

Plowing duty for the 654. Snow was heavy. More snow predicted Wednesday night thru Friday. That little tractor can really push snow. However, with my ongoing back issues I may need to consider a hydro, especially for the lift. I do like the smaller size of a short frame tractor & like the looks of a round hood. As I've said before (when I get more storage room- new shed) I still wanna go 520 w/2 stage for the heavy duty work. VID_20241203_152541.mp4

@Monstrosity, love your display. Last year my wife asked me to light up a tractor for the Christmas season, of course she ask me this like 4 days before Christmas. This year I took the initiative to get an early start on her request. Took the better part of the day to get it done, but I'm happy with it. Gave me the itch to add more next year.

Wow. Thanks for the responses guys! It seems to be a unanimous tire chains. I've ordered up a set of 4 link with barbs. If I find I need a 2 link, I'll just order the individual chains. I do have 12" wide Ag tires on it now, and they spin just like that video. We got about 2-3 feet dumped on us last weekend and she struggled. Another 1-2 feet forecast this weekend. Now I just need to get the snowthrower to work properly...until then it works pretty dang good as a plow!

I HOPE YOU HAVE AN EXCELLENT BIRTHDAY BOB !!! GRAB A ROCK & RYE AND WATCH SOME PAINT DRY!!

Celebrity sells!

Shouldn't be too long .. lookin to get a blast up yer way. We had three inches in Vilas county.

Foot pedal and rod assembly ready to install. Note stainless rod that I bent exactly the same as Matt's original steel rod. Reverse pedal bolted on. Rod cotter pin installed. Rod installed. Pedal bushings installed. Pedal installed. Foot control complete.

The C-160 is a battery ignition, not a magneto. There is a stator (alternator) under the flywheel that produces 35 to 40 volts AC when the engine is running. It goes to the regulator/rectifier to be converted to DC voltage to charge the battery. All tests need to be done with the battery installed as the battery is part of the electrical system. As has been previously stated, be sure all of your grounds are good, battery to engine/frame, rectifier to frame. A charged battery should read about 12.5 volts. When running at full throttle, the voltage across the battery should be +/- 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC. My opinion is that you may have a bad regulator/rectifier. On the other hand, a bad/weak battery will also give you the same problems. This is a cleaned up diagram of a 1975 C-160 battery charging only.

Nice. Best done in a 2 link setup, as a 4 link leaves too much space that gives an awful bouncy ride - your innards will thank you!

As you can see we have a gravel driveway. With the top holes the plow angle is such that it digs in to the soft parts WAY too aggressively. This forward tilt we use keeps the gravel where it should be much longer. We have no issues with the snow rolling off the sides. In fact, we have less trouble. With the more forward angle we use the snow is actually directed DOWN and OUT in the front of the plow. With the plow in the top hole we see more tendency to allow the snow to bury the plow by running right up over the top. There is NO tendency for the plow to float over the snow with my monster blade as it's so incredibly heavy. If the snow is very hard packed sometimes Trina will hold her blade down in tension using the solid link.

I have one (rebadged as a Hustler) that our neighbor bought new some time in the 60's. That was his Allis too. They are nice heavy duty trailers. When I first got this one, my son took it to haul his 4-wheeler. Yours looks good, you will get a lot of use out of it.

Eb, I noticed you have your trip springs set to keep the blade vertical as it touches the ground. I keep mine on the top set of holes to help the snow dig in and roll off the blade better rather than loading up and lifting the plow. I have a long driveway, so rolling off the plow to the side makes it go a lot faster. I am still waiting for some snow here in Wisconsin to see how it works with my Raider 10 that I repowered with a 16 HP with a hydro pulley. It gives me a much better road gear. I agree with the weights and chains. I prefer turf tires with 2 link chains with ice cleats, but I have both ag tires and 4 link chains on other tractors. Chains are needed no matter what tires you have.

Unfortunately, it doesn’t fit underneath the tree the boys great uncle passed it down to them this year.

The boys getting the house ready

Fri after Thanksgiving is the traditional day for Christmas to move into our house. Start the day by hunting down & bagging a frasier fir to serve as our tree for the season. Next the decision has to be made as to what decorations will go on the tree (we have enough to decorate 3 or 4 trees thanks to my "crazy", I mean lovely wife ) This year we chose to go with glass bulbs.

I've heard that some people may have, uhm, done that...

Today I put the decals on the 308. The decals definitely finished it off. It’s quite the transformation.

Niiiiice. It's been exactly one single day since I've seen snow falling.

This is going on the 308 tomorrow morning. The holiday season upon us at work. 😬 I’m taking it easy tonight.

The town is behind on leaf pickup so I'm working closer and closer to traffic. I decided to add a wig-wag flasher. Now to decide if I want to do something on the back.

Chains ain't so bad. It's the dog turds that really get me.

It’s plow time here. Both boys are set up. Wheelhorse_kid’s c-121 and his older brothers 856. Watching my older son and his friend put the weights chains and plow on today was pretty comical. He wants to plow hes Gotta set it up like his little brother 😂

Gave the diesel WH a break for December.. parked up for decoration. Is there a way to reseal the lift cylinder? I do not see a way to take it apart or is it cheaper to find a newer piston??

Picked up a Brinley rear back blade and this afternoon put it to work! I put it on the c-145 with hydraulic lift and did some grading and leveling off in the woods were the water runs and it made a trench when we had heavy rain so I hooked the blade to the c-145 and did some grading around that corner. Look’s definitely a lot better than before! And got seat time! First time the c-145 has been run since I took the tiller off. IMG_9906.mov

I didn’t do anything but watch @TonyToro Jr. study the wiring diagram for his restoration tractor! 😂 Happy Thanksgiving everyone!!🦃👍

Phew, been a hectic few weeks away from the build bench. Garden projects and holidays took far too much of my hobby time lol. Why is the rum gone? Why is the rum always gone? Lol And my favourite, courtesy of young Frankenstein..... WHAT KNOCKERS! Anyway, back to the build... I've done some primer spraying on the chassis dear readers, but that's about as interesting as watching it dry. So today I started to Nankle (technical term in Yorkshire) with the brake and clutch pedals. The original pre-production models had cast bronze pedal heads. But as it was just after the Second World War II, bronze was in short supply so they changed them to steel. I am copying a pre-production variant so brass it has to be.... The studs cast into the face were a puzzle for me to replicate. So I drilled holes 1mm diameter and soldered brass pins in, which I then filed and polished. This is a pic of the original pedal box...

Sometime last year I scored this custom made front axle assembly for an RJ. Supposedly made by a machinist, this thing is not only solid but incredibly precise without any play whatsoever. Wheels sit absolutely straight without the usual negative camber. The wheel holding method probably the best I ever came across, no tools needed,really easy to take out wheel, and no washers needed since the slotted nuts, allow for a wide range of adjusting. Missing was the steering link. Standard one would not work so I had to fabricate that whole part of it. Awsome steering now. No play in any way really tight and precise steering . Another great improcement on it is that where it mounts to frame it has a hardened insert. On old axle that hole was already greatly enlarged and out of round. Who ever made it sure thought of everything.