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Please allow me to rephrase that for you. Somewhere out there is a man who is so glad you are his Ex-Wife, he is a lucky man!

That's when the lid mysteriously falls off the syrup jar and spills all over her counter.

Randy, hope you didn't just jinx yourself. At our age dealing with snow requires some specialized equipment.

Went Grocery shopping this morning right after 7AM when the Market opens. I knew I had less than 20 items, 18 to be exact, so I proceeded to one of the two open Express Checkouts. Instead of a courteous "Good Morning!", the Cashier gives me a snarky "That looks to be more than 20 items, go to a (the only) Regular Checkout." I assured her that it was less than 20 an started to unload the basket onto the belt. She made a huge point of tallying the item count on the receipt - 18 items!! I paid, then took the receipt and scanned down it, to her disapproval. I told her I was checking to make sure she did not double-ring any items!! All was fine, as I was leaving, I reminded her that during the entire time, BOTH Express Checkouts had only one Customer, not 6 deep. She huffed, so I nodded & winked, told her to "Have a super nice day". And I WAS being nice, because if she gave me any more grief, I was going to say, "You are someone's Ex-Wife, aren't you??" But I did not have to.......

Connect a jumper from the bulb bracket to the battery negative to complete the circuit.

Yup, seen that too. Honestly, it was that snarkiness of the Cashier's attitude that got me going. I normally do not go looking for a "sparring partner" before breakfast...

Guess what guys? I now have lights!! It was indeed a ground issue..I grounded the hood and oddly enough they still didn’t work, I then messed around testing the light bucket itself.. it did not show a ground, so then I installed one bezel screw ( without the bezel) and one light worked.. I then reinstalled the entire bezel and both lights work now, the screws are going through the bucket and giving the needed ground. I didn’t want to drill out the factory rivets and clean up around the where the bezel sits in the hood, but I may have to. For now they work great.. well … not great but as great as the factory lights work! Thanks to all you guys for your much valued input! Sqonk hit the nail on the head, I also think ebmaine did as well in a text that he sent me. This site is an awsome resource!

This is going on the 308 tomorrow morning. The holiday season upon us at work. 😬 I’m taking it easy tonight.

I think it is a grounding issue. Everything is worn now including the hood hinge more than likely. My Raider 12 the lights would go on and off as the hood moved some even though I rebushed for the pin. Ran a ground wire even thou it did not originally have one. Had also refurbished the light sockets.

This may just make it more confusing, but it works for me. I use hydraulics to understand electricity. Electricity Hydraulics battery + pump outlet battery - pump inlet voltage pressure amperage flow ohms pipe friction wire pipe switch valve Easy to see you will see pressure(voltage) but will not have flow(amperage) until you complete the loop back to the pump inlet(battery ground). The flow thru the restrictive bulb filament causes the friction that heats the filament causing it to glow. No flow=no glow.

Electrical for 400, please.

Red Green would be proud of you.

Firstly, I Do Not Know Everything nor do I thiMk I do. Without being all Sockingly 'esoteric' on everybody here I will say for the ones who Know (such as other electricians), when it comes to applying the National Electrical Code & the Terms used within it such as; "Grounded, Solidly Grounded, Grounding, Bonded, Bonding, Bonding Jumper, Equipment Ground, Grounding Electrode, Grounding Electrode Conductor & Ground wire" Which mean Several Entirely different things when applying the Code to wiring our homes & other things & the whole Darn thang is written in 'Leagal-eez' For the Sake of simplicity I will be using the above mentioned terms interchangeably here as they essentially mean the same thing in this very simple example on a very Cool Little Red Riding Mower operating with a 12 Volt DC System To Moo-Wah....this absolutely Samcks of a Bad Ground ...... Solution; Run a suplimental Grounding wire. Best & Simplest explanatory example I can provide is; Trailer lights (Suffering from Poor Grounding or no ground) will go 1 out 1 bright when the brakes are applied because it is "searching" for a path to ground & going back through the other Screwshell for the lamp as well as the multiple 'resistors' or elements in the other lamp acting as a resistor.. I know this certainly can be a real headscratcher for just about anyone who is Not "Schooled/Trained/Heavily Experienced" in Electricial trouble shooting (at a professional Level) Or Very Well versed in Electrical Theory. As for the mention of the fuse Not blowing, that is for a few reasons; 1, there is No short within this circuit & 2, Poor Grounding, yes the lightbulb(s) is/are a resistive load but not large enough to draw sufficient current for the fuse to blow & again poor grounding... A Solidly Grouned Sytem will absolutely Blow a Fuse IF there is a short or you introduce a resistive load larger than the fuse is rated for. 1 of the 6 reasons we want a Solidly Grounded system is so that the Overcurrent Device (in this case a fuse) will operate.....I did 25+ years in Electrical Contracting & have worked on a wide variety of different systems including DC Battery Back up systems & a few "itty bitty" DC Motors. Direcct Current can do some Frustratingly "Weird Stuff" & leave us wondering ..... Once I understood it Thoroughly, it was not a big mystery anymore. Even to this day, I still have to stop & tell myself to start over with the Basics & eventually the answer cometh. It took Several Years for me to Absorb the knowledge & experience I have. For quite some time in the beginning of my apprenticeship, after a while,I knew what I was doing but Not Why I was doing it. Puting those things together come from good leadership by Good Journeymen & Good training/Schooling, Lots of Studying & asking questions. I hope that Helps & that I haven't Nerded anyone's eyeballs out to awful bad tonight.... This episode of Soap Box Blabbery was brought to you today by the Letters G & E for Ground or as the Brits say; (& even our current National Electrical Code books are pushing the term) "Earth" G.E. also stands for Generally Expensive..... That is why I do not purchase their appliances anymore because in comparison to others the repair parts are in fact Generally Expensive...... but so is my newly founded Wheel Horse Habbit......

I dunno. Tractors side by side. Duct tape a board to the two motion control levers. Left foot on left tractor’s right footrest, right foot on right tractor’s left foot rest. One hand on each steering wheel. Nudge the motion control with your knees...

Couple pics from todays dinner. Marks ne sun room under construction. After dinner Steelers football.

Normal operation if the bulbs are good and poor ground. Do the reverse. Connect your test light to the battery (+) and probe the headlamp housing. No light so poor ground.

Tractor shuffle. Drive one say, 30 feet. Go get the other. Drive it 60 feet. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Good progress. ....Repeat. ....Repeat. ....Repeat.

Had the 312-8 out today first time since the M & G to help the 420 hauling some firewood for the 2 woodstoves in the house. I know @kpinnc likes to see the LSE earning it's keep. Only problem is two tractors and only one driver.

Have you changed the gear oil lately? Does the 310 sit outside where rainwater could have gotten into the transmission? Lots of good information and pictures in this thread.

Had to drag a few out today for some much needed run time. They’re dusty, but will all get a bath come spring!

The thing that seems get more frequent as they age is the gears butting into each other when shifting and it won't go right into gear. Lifting the clutch pedal and pushing it back down spins the gears inside to a different position and then it'll go into gear

Here's a few pics from the past few days. This one's kinda more like a topshot.

It is a difficult concept for today’s youth: 1. You will not graduate high school and be CEO on your first day. But you should be. 2. Trading your time and effort for a paycheck is akin to slavery. You should get paid just for showing up, and only then when you feel like it. 3. The customer is never right, and only came to bother you. It is a personal attack. 4. Minimum wage should be 6 figures for 20 hours per week.

Thanks @BBQVultureWings for bringing those pictures back. The only one gone is the C-165 that I just sold this Fall.

There is a large Shopping Plaza near me that has the EV Charging Station Bank - 8 or so waaaaay out in the parking lot away from all other parking & structures. Insurance reasons??? I am sure that they have had their share of whining entitled "Karens" asking if they plan to implement a shuttle service!!!

I get the disabled parking, and those who violate them are breaking the law, however I don't know why mothers with babies qualify for special parking. When we were young parents with babies I would have never thought I was entitled to special parking. But don't get me started with EV parking areas that are closer than all the rest? What makes them special?

Not worth your time or effort. Don't let them ruin your day.

Just to clarify. There is no mention of buck, doe, or sex in the Pa laws defining legal deer. It should be noted as some wild hen turkey have beards, some female deer have antlers. There are only antlerless (any deer having no antlers or spikes shorter than 3 inches). And antlered deer(any deer having a spike longer than 3 inches). These deer are only legal for youth under 16 years of age. Antlered deer for adult hunters must have a minimum of three points (1 inch or longer) on one side). The brow tine and the main beam count as a point. In some special trophy areas the brow tine does not count as a point. The Pa Game Commission does use the antlerless deer tag allotment to control the numbers of deer in each game management area. They also instituted the antler restriction policy in 2002 to improve the quality of the antlered deer harvest. IMO, for the most part, these policies have helped. There are still severe overpopulation problems mainly in areas where hunting is not practical or permitted. Without question as evidenced by the 60+ antlered deer I have harvested, The antler restrictions have also worked.

I make it a point to be OVERLY nice to all people...Until they push too far. The universe may never pay you back but you will feel better yourself. Nobody wrenching my day, I got stuff to do!

I would check the bottom round tab ( or Pig Tails as they are called) in the light socket to see if it has flattened out and spread to the light bucket or touching it. I usually change the inner of the light socket when I get a new tractor with that type front light. They wires are old, and often the inside is corroded or very worn.

GROUND!!! The reason your test light comes on when you touch the bezel is it's picking up the " potential voltage" to ground. The reason the bulbs sockets are getting hot is you have all that potential voltage trying to get to ground and only a minute amount is getting through. I bet if you tried it in pitch dark you would see a faint glow from the bulb filament. All of those little voltage.cooties are piling up in the bulb and can't get out.

Now there's an interesting explanation 🤔 Nicely done. Gotta remember that one... And now you folks can see a little more of why I most often remove the ENTIRE wiring harness and start right over. Ground. Every. Circuit.

Next year add the trailer full of gifts

Ours just ended yesterday. Just got home from a solid two weeks in camp and came home empty handed except for a nice recliner & new tv for the shop ... Nothing like buying your own xmas presents! Saw and had a some dandies on cams but all after shooting hours. Cindy missed a dandy ... ah well let's not discuss it... More after I catch up on things here and sort pics This time of year Ed?!?!? We had three inches of tracking dust!

Hmmm.. decisions, decisions. Had to choose between the Ha-Ha Emoji and the Sad, as we have no "WTF" icon....

Silly - it takes that many because Millennials want their OWN space....

Took the wife out this morning to a farm owned by friends of the family. She saw 7 or 8 and never got a shot off. I saw one and brought it home. Her goal for 2025 is to try and replace about 75-90% of the beef we usually eat with venison so I'd like to get one or two more between us yet this year. I have one more of my own antlerless tags for the area we live in, and my buck tag yet. I will likely pass on another doe/antlerless for myself yet this year and only shoot if I see a legal buck. I'd like the wife to get one of her own though.

Some people just think they are entitled.

Thanks for all of the birthday wishes guys, I had a great day.

It requires single pole 1156 bulbs. 1157 bulbs might cause what you're describing, don't know.

@Monstrosity, love your display. Last year my wife asked me to light up a tractor for the Christmas season, of course she ask me this like 4 days before Christmas. This year I took the initiative to get an early start on her request. Took the better part of the day to get it done, but I'm happy with it. Gave me the itch to add more next year.

Use a 1/8" allen wrench and after lossening the lock nut back out the set screw. Pull out the shifter and use a long screw driver to see if you can move the shift forks into the different gear positions. That should tell you if the issue is inside the trans. Check out the shifter it self...is the set screw broke?...is the ball on the shifter loose?...was the set screw loose?

A few questions...1. does it grind when trying to select a gear? 2. Do you have to kill the engine inoder to shift? 3. Does it feel like something inside is keeping the shifter from moving the shift fork? I agree at this point with My-Horse...the 1st and easiest thing to check is the set screw holding the shifter in place. Is the shifter sloppy?

If the high low shifter is stuck in between Hi Low it can't spin the trans. But the regular shifter would still feel normal like it's shifting correctly If the regular shifter 1 2 3 rev feels loose or sloppy then you should remove the shifter and inspect it and the dog point set screw which holds it in place. Lift the rubber boot off and you will see the dog point screw in the front of the shifter

Getting our belated Thanksgiving dinner started this AM I was on KP duty while Mrs. K made a pumpkin and shoo fly pie.

Throw this into the mix for faster winch lifting.