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Soooooo..... picked this up this morning. Kinda excited about it but also asking myself if I really need it. I need to learn to ask if I need it and not ask do I want it. It is a one owner 946 Snowco with original operators manual. Little rusty but not rotted. Fenders are the worst part of it. They are dented up pretty good. Has a hand winch up front, splash or gravel guard, non-skid decking all original. The previous owners purchased it new in 1965 when they bought a JD garden tractor from a dealer. Thank God it wasn't painted green and yellow. The cool factor on these little trailers are off the chart. Tilt bed just drive right up. So after buying it I have no way of getting home. My truck has no hitch. Call a friend who is a little leary of hooking it up because of the whole there's no lights or plate on it. We wind up taking it to a friend of his that was like a mile away. Him and I worked out a deal where as he is going to rewire it, install new LED lights and replace the cable on the winch for a reasonable price. I will get it from his place next week. Not sure what my plans for it will be. If I lean towards keeping it I would have to put a hitch on my truck. It sits pretty low so I'm not sure if just putting a ball on my bumper would do the trick. May just pass it on, I dunno. I could picture it painted up to match your favorite tractor color scheme. That's what these things were built for. Be a hit at the Big Show !

I have found several of the lower bearing blocks for the reduction steering assembly cracked. Here is one that I have here that is cracked. If the block is worn and you try and drill it for a bushing it also usually cracks so I decided to make my own. I went and bought a short length of 1"x1.5" flat bar (over $20 for that, I guess steel prices must be up). Marked bar then cut off. I then drilled the blanks for the 3/4"x 7/8" bushings that will be installed. Then the holes were drilled for the mounting bolts and grease fitting. Bearing block bolted to steering block for test fit. I now need to order the bushings then I can finish these.

Just out of curiosity I checked the head bolt torque on a Kohler Magnum 10 engine. The manual calls for 25 to 30 foot pounds, I started at 25, no movement, went to 30, still ne movement, change to 40, nothing. At 45 foot pounds a couple of the head bolts did move a bit, most didn't. My guess is the factory torques them to 45 knowing they are using new bolts and no owner is going to retorque them. When torqueing head bolts I lay this little memory aid on top of the head so I don't have to look up the sequence.

Did a K car ever make 5 years.

Here is a quick drawing of the block

A couple of my faves. A 30 footer coming in hot, hit the trailer perfect. But, the coupler wasn't latched and the trailer tongue lifted off the ball and punched a hole in the new F-250s tail gate. A 24 footer came i with the anchor dangling on 4 feet of line off the pulpit roller. Yep, it hit the winch stand and punched a hole in the bow. A guy backed his cruiser in with his wife at the helm. He yelled back it off. Nothing. He kept screaming..give it more gas. She did and the boat and trailer swung 90 degrees to the truck. The transom straps were still on.

I worked at a local marina when I was in middle school during summer break. I collected $5 (shows how old I am at that price!) ramp fee & had to verify passes on the prepaid unlimited customers. It was always great entertainment. Saw plenty of tow vehicles end up in the river, bumper damage from jack knifing trailer, etc. Working there & moving boats/trailers around I had mastered my trailer skills long before I had a drivers license.

My only suggestion is to stay above 5 feet on the width. My trailer is 5x10, so nothing with a 60 inch deck will fit on it. Smaller round hoods will fit side by side, but only one if something like a C series or classic. I have transported two tractors but only by turning one sideways and wedging it between the rails. No fun getting it out… I wish my trailer was at least 6x12. I could trade up, but it’s hard to find another with a solid steel floor as I have now. It was home built and is much heavier built than trailers in its size range.

I know it's not the original discussion but I'd also like to add that replacing the cylinder head BOLTS probably does not get done often enough. None of the engines I've been into are less than 30 or 40 years old and I've started replacing the cylinder head bolts and washers on every single one of them.

It can be like going crazy in a silo without a corner to poop in figuring out all the different trailering in different states. My size is 6x10 or 12. Not too big not too small. 10 by can easily get 4 short frames on ... 12 by 4 long frames on. Just right for hauling a single mowing tractor down the road or those quick midnight scores ... All gets back to Richard's post on what will you be using it for. Not a fan of renting... not around when you need it.

Blocks bead blasted.

Something to behold at the public Boat Ramp, for sure. If I go fishing with my SIL & Grandsons and there anything cold left to drink, we humor ourselves watching the actions (antics??) of other guys launching or loading. Some folks got it, some never will.....

Growing up, my dad was always bringing home injured birds he found at work. The ones that stand out in memory were a hawk, an owl, and a great blue heron. I always knew he was a bit crazy, but catching either of those with his bare hands probably could have been entertaining to say the least. He always had contacts that did animal rescue and recovery, but he liked to show them off first. You just never knew what he had in the trunk of the car when he came home!

Hello from Norway. Do you guys know or think it’s possible to use this on my C-161? Is the Kohler k341 strong enough? I can’t find a sweeper to my wheel horse here in Norway so therefore I’m thinking of modifying one to fit.

I believe this is one of them in the brochure?

It will be “clutching” whatever seat he decides to add on that machine!

PTO pivot plate ready to assemble. PTO pivot plate assembled.

It depends on the head gasket used. If you re-use the old one, no you do not have to re-torque. If you use a brand new one, either OEM or aftermarket, you will absolutly need to retorque after some thermal cycles.

I've wondered the same thing. I've run it by friends that are technicians. I can't speak for the specific Sciences behind it. Hopefully somebody with a better understanding than me will pipe up. I've had discussions in both directions of yes it's always necessary or no you never need to do it. My thought process is, too many to similar materials for my comfort level are in play so I'm always going to retorque a cylinder head. In the case of a big block Kohler. The block is cast. The head bolts are steel. The cylinder head of course is aluminum. Some serious differences in the rates of expansion and contraction there. I've had the cylinder head off of maybe a dozen engines? I was probably two or three deep into that when I learned that they needed to be rechecked. When I go back and tighten up 10 bolts, one to three of them will move.

Yea, you used to be able to title what they call a "special construction" trailer, but now if it didn't come from the factory with a title you can forget getting one. If it's on the road it needs a title and tags minus log splitters and things like that.

Old drained lower unit outboard oil also works well. I use that to coat all the ungalvanized parts on my salt water boat trailers... springs, shackles, etc.

Power should not be an issue. i run my sweepster on a C-175 with tired KT17 that has over 2000 hours on it. (came from a JD 317) That the Husqvarna is also run by a horizontal shaft engine should make adaptation some what simpler. You just need to design a frame that would use the front and mid tachmatic. One thing mounting an de-mounting my unit is a bear. I never take it off. Tractor sits most the year. maybe an hour or two use per year so even tired old KT should outlast me. If you want I can take some better pictures of the mounting frame as hooked up....I am not taking it off to take pics.. I am too old to wrestle with it again..

He might have alligator in him… waiting at the water for supper to come for a drink…

@John2189 Thanks for the info this helps.

Good point. I sometimes forget plenty of people drive cars. My wife and I both have pickups so a trailer isn’t usually an issue. My truck is the smaller of the two (Tacoma V6), but still has no problem with 6000+lbs. I also have a trailer brake controller that is very helpful when it’s time to stop. The best trailer I ever pulled with my truck was a 7x14 Hudson with electric brakes. It was wide enough to see down both sides in the side mirrors, and handled very well.

@BillD One suggestion I will make when it comes to trailer construction, buying or building. Trailers that use a steel tube construction, these may seem like a good strong construction and they are. Here is the issue with them - There is no way to properly paint the inside of the tubing. They collect moisture through condensation, rain, etc. This causes them to rust from the inside out, so you often don't notice that it is happening until your frame breaks. How do I know this?? I had a flat bed utility trailer that used square tubing for the main frame construction. One day the frame broke right in front of one the spring shackles. A few taps on the out side with a pick hammer proved that the rest of the frame was not in sound shape either. I have also seen this issue multiple times with boat trailers that use a tube construction. The trailer that I built is made with 3" C-channel that has a 5/16" wall, all of the angle iron has 1/4" wall, and the tubing and angle for the tongue has 5/16" walls. Over kill??? Maybe, and it does weight 900lbs empty but I have no worries when it comes to frame failure.

I took a screenshot of this sometime ago. No clue who posted it. Hope this helps

That is old used motor oil. I'll let is soak and dry in the sun for a few days before storage.

I could finish my sweeping a lot faster if I had a cab. I have to wait for favorable wind conditions.. Can do one side of the driveway and than have to wait for a wind shift to do the other... It is one thing to eat a little snow form the blower, the pebbles dirt and stuff from the sweepster a lot less pleasant.

No sir. Clinching is just the act of tightening up. Clutching means you are hanging on for dear life! …And I assure you both can be performed at the tractor seat with no hands!

That is so awesome, I watched it twice! ‘Merica! 🇺🇸

They are made by Sweepster, model C-48. I’m not sure if they are still in business? Mine is mounted to a C-141 8-Speed. The 14 hp Kohler seems to handle it with ease.

The down side of free range!

Did you intermix the words "clutching" and "clinching" ??

When I got my 1054 going,unstuck the exhaust valve, removed the head, cleaned it all up, smoothed it up and replaced the head. Torqued it down per specs and after running for a short while I retorqued it and was surprised how many bolts needed it. I then ran it again and retorqued and a couple bolts definitely needed it. I was surprised but rechecked because of post here on Red Square concerning doing it. It takes maybe 10- 15 minutes so why not?

And there you have it folks. AND if it's the 2 closest to the exhaust port... guess what?? That is the most common spot for the gasket to fail, as that area see the greatest thermal swing in temperatures. The Kohler K Series Manual mentions to retorque as necessary - no number of times given. I take it that means until it holds torque on all bolts when cold. KohlerKseriesManual.pdf

This one is all mower, no kart involved. LOL. Not a Wheel Horse but the next will be

Impressive, How are you collecting it from the bar?

Since you don’t have physics room for mor tractors, I bet you have hard drive space available. When you’re out in the country taking wildlife pictures you bound to run across old rusty tractors, new shiny tractors, working tractors, big and small tractors, etc. You are hereby enable to take and post tractor pictures.

Yep, I've watched some funny, some sad and some scary scenes on the ramps.

That's one smart hawk.

Your C-120 auto is roughly 50+ years old. Inasmuch as you are replacing the Parking Pawl, I'd urge you ---if not already done so--- to pull the hydro pump AND the hyd motor for inspection. There are many internal SOFT brass parts that are very like scored over the years from the STEEL shavings of the worn-down parking pawl. The first sign of internal damage is: AFter warmup, does the tractor seem to lose power? If so, the only cure is to restore the surfaces of these internal brass parts. This is not a difficult endeavor and gaskets kits are available for this Sundstrand Model 90-1136. I have personally refurbished a dozen or more of this very model and have prepared a 'how-to' file to guide the process. It is a free download... here it is: SUNDSTRAND-Piston-Piston-PUMP-MOTOR-Refurb.pdf

They also sit there for a prey to run out to consume what humans throw out of vehicles… then the bird of prey gets hit… Another good reason not to litter…

We have a lot of pasture land around us. I enjoy when hay is cut, because the red tailed hawks show up in droves. For them it’s a field mice and rabbit buffet!

Depending on your tow vehicle, load capacity, total weight, and brakes also are a factor. I have had one round hood and one 312-H with a deck together on my un-braked 5x8. It was VERY tight and approaching the max capacity.

I bought an all aluminum 5.5'x11' trailer to replace my home made 4'x8' trailer. Wheel Horses fit on better. Rear gate comes apart if you don't want it sticking up in the wind when hauling empty.

Not necessarily. The only ones I sold were because I just had too many. I will likely not sell any I have restored, because I’ll never make that money back. Kids and grandkids will get them first. Down in NC, almost no 30 year old machine looks even decent. But I understand, you want what you want. Be patient, you might find one at some point.

I took the last deck off and prepped for hibernation.

This is sold… my buddy picked it up for me. I believe it’ a ‘59 Casting RJ transmission.