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After I saw on the forum that he was retiring from making WH seat cushions, I PMed him to ask some questions about seat upholstering for tractors. He kindly replied with his phone number and a request that I call. We spoke for over an hour about fabrics (including the changes in product and availability and the pros and cons of different materials), patterns, equipment, techniques, and having a business “on the side” of regular full-time job. I learned a great deal that day and I think we both enjoyed the conversation a lot. Another fine example of the kind of folks that make this forum special. Thank you, @953 nut for the update. RIP Bob.

NO ... most of us have at least one oddball in the herd ... looks like that one is your odd ball. You might have to find a belt guard for it. It aids in clutching for shifting. I believe there are repops out there. RJ's are favorites around here & you did good on the price ... you don't wanna know what I paid for this one. Ollie @oliver2-44 I thought you said RJs are hen's teeth in TX??

I bought my property 4 years ago and have been focusing on the house and other projects. But it's time for me to start working on the barn. This is a 1800's beam bank barn. It's approximately 35x65' in the main part. My first focus is going to be replacing the main barn floor. The outside definitely needs work as well, my long term plan is to get the outside metal but leave the wood siding on and just furr out the metal so the inside still looks original. There are plenty of areas I need to replace the wood as well as get it painted before doing metal. This is the "lean-to" off the side of the barn with a milk room is my current area that I work on the wheelhorses which is not the most ideal but it works for now. Here is the bottom of the barn along with a bunch of lumber that is going to be used as the floor. Planning on putting a stairway here between the bottom of the barn and the main floor. And finally the inside And here is the lumber I will be using to replace the floor, I got a deal on it from my work. They are 2x10's and a bit over 13' long First thing I need to work on is clearing out the main floor of all the stuff. And then in a 1/3 of the barn there is a 2-3" layer of concrete I need to remove, and then the entire floor needs to come up. There are a few floor beams I need to replace and reinforce and I want to get the floor somewhat leveled out as well.

Such a shame, I guess that family members may not even know we are members of red square and so the news if someone passing gets missed. Thank you for letting the group know.

Been a bit since I last posted about the 875. Rebuilt the carb, got the nasty red paint off of the Genny and regulator, rewired, moved solenoid so it doesn't start a fire when the rock shaft is lifted. New fuel shut off and lines. New battery and throttle cables and replaced the rotted battery box. Still have to tidy up the wires and decide what exhaust to run. Once the engine is running I'll have to make some hood and seat pan bushings and install the PTO parts.

So sad to hear, on his birthday. Such a kind man, like many here on this forum. I’m glad to be able to say I’ve shaken his hand. I’m glad to be able to say I have one of his seats, a very special one with materials from Mr. Richard. I have a couple two or three of his black and white ones, but the red, white and blue flavor was a one of one, and he gave it to me free of charge.

Just take it to a Hydraulic shop. hey have drawers and drawers of O-rings, it what they do every day.

The weather service is calling for the thermometer to dip into the upper 20's this coming week. Here in southwest MIssouri, we've had an unusually long growing season this year. I've got broccoli, lettuce still going strong. Today, I pulled the tomato plants did some cleaning of our raised bed. For the past couple of years, in my asparagus patch, I been nurturing two peach trees that I grew from seed and one sour cherry tree that I started after pruning a cherry tree and sticking the sticks into the earth hoping they might take root. One, out of probably 60, did manage to take root. I transplanted them this past week. Now I'm trying to learn how to prune them correctly. A trip to the Extension Office resulted in a pamphlet and google has resulted in some videos. Probably next February or March I'll give the fruit trees a pruning. My end of the gardening years supper consisted of mashed turnips, fried green tomatoes and brisket.

I bought my very first wheel horse and I dont know much about them. I collect the old cub cadets of this era and no a lot of cubs. I am hoping someone can help me out identifying this tractor. The family I bought it from bought it in 1972 and its always been indoors. They believe it is a 1957 but there is no serial number tag. They lost all the manuals as well. The engine tag is still on there. Looks like kohler k91. I believe the tractor is a 1958 or 1959 from comparing pictures. What do you guys think? Should I attempt to restore this, just have fun with it the way it is, or stick to cub cadets? The inside of gas tank is spotless. Appears the machine was taken care of.

What a great old barn you have. It looks like it's stands good and is structurally in sound shape. I like old barns. I was fortunate to work on one built in the 1880's It had "1880" in the gable end that the owner asked me to replicate so he could have the original for display in his home. At that time I had a Ford van that was my work vehicle with ladder rack on top. In order to paint the gable and be able to reach the "1880" when replacing it, I set my longest wooden extension ladder on the ladder rack on top of the van. It made for quite a shaky ladder! That barn was struck by lightening a few years later and burned down. Another time we renailed and painted a galvanized metal roof on a barn. I used my fishing pole to cast a line across the ridge then drug ropes that we tied to the trailer hitch on my El Camino to tie around our waists while on that steep roof. 40 years ago when we painted barns, when we had one that the paint was gone or nearly gone, we would "prime" with linseed oil. Let it dry a few weeks then come in and prime and topcoat. The reason the man I worked for used linseed oil was to restore the oil in the wood. He claimed if you applied primer, the dry wood would absorb the oil out of the primer and leave the pigment on the surface. What memories seeing your barn brought back. Looking forward to following your progress.

Awesome barn! The whole time reading your post all I kept thinking was “how much stuff I could store in there!”

When I was a kid, my Uncle had a HUGE layout in his basement.Several individual tracks. Freight trains, passenger trains, trolleys. Whole villages with people and vehicles (all illuminated). Mountains with tunnels. Track through the walls room to room and a massive control station! I could watch that for hours!

Lol ...I forgot I had that pic and didn't realize it either till after I posted it!. good eye tho Bob ... Back when the flame was actually a worker ... good thing I didn't finish hauling stuff ! I had to put it in a safe place. RJ was supposed to be a trailer queen tho but had to earn it's keep pulling bushes.

@WHX?? Jim!!!! What the heck is in your pocket???? I saw that and had to do a super zoom. I even called Nancy in and she agreed with me.

Thank you again, for volunteering in your community! Bravo!

Yes we call that character in our circle. Who in their right mind would go from this ... ... to this ... and leave this like this ...

Bob was a very special person. I always enjoyed conversations with him and would set up next to him at the Big Show. Asbestosis made him slow down a few years ago. While I was in the hospital after my stroke we talked on the phone and I found out he had a heart attack the day after my stroke. We were both in PT gaining enough strength to return home. The last time I called him he said he wasn't able to walk very far without experiencing shortness of breath. He and I collaborated on the 953/1054 seats and spent a few hours assembling the first doze at the big show in 2018. We started with the covering from a seat that @Shuboxlover gave me for patterns. I cut the pressure treated plywood and Bob cut the seams of the old skins to make new patterns. He sent me the first set he made for test fitting and with just a couple of minor tweaks the next set was prefect. Miss you Bob.

Picked up a new to me 48 inch plow that will go on my c-121 tommorow. Set of wh plastic wheel weights and tires chains. Thanks @Sparky remember if you need it you know where it is!

@ BEAP52 , scarry , linseed oil , is just what I was thinking about , dry wood is a perfect object to , oil soak , watched a guy this summer do a barn roof , and asked him if he was going to , mineral oil it ? what for he said ? told him to have a good day , today that roof looks bone dry and split curling everywhere , those hot summer days , with an oil soak , works wonders , but only if you do it . simple as it sounds , seen lubrication save a lot of stuff , beats powerdry rust , or rot any day , pete

Still have one of the first, if not the very first seat upholstery Bob ever offered for sale here on RS. I remember getting the cushion made and included was a challenge for him to actually make happen. Always a super easy guy to talk to and work with. Rest in peace my W-H brother, you will be missed.

I don’t recall seeing any comprehensive “whole tractor” guides. It’d be book length for sure. There tend to be major component manuals and then postings by users of their experience with a smaller section. Not very helpful, So maybe how about some searching hints?! Three important controls for searching that help a lot: “Search In...” -- the site's documents are stored the “Files” section. Click on “More options” to see that listed and then click on the radio button. Topics are the usual posted threads. “Find results that contain...” -- the search can match ALL of the separate words you type into the search bar or ANY of the words. If you type three words and choose “Any” your results will have either one, two, or all three of the words you typed anywhere title or title/thread (see next control). Using several search words and the ANY option is the fastest way to get 000’s of results! Use double quotes to look for an exact match, e.g. “Blade Dozer”. “Find results in...” -- you can confine the search to only the titles of a topic or file or you can search within the title and contents. For example, this topic’s title is “K141 Carb Rebuild” so searches for “Carb” or “Rebuild” will find this topic but searching for “carburetor” will not. Files tend to have very succinct titles; topic titles vary; but topic contents is a LOT.! If you are looking for files/documents, it helps to know that our erstwhile document guru ( @gwest_ca) has been using a naming scheme. Some examples of key words and acronyms in document titles include: Tractor, Tiller, Trailer, Mower, Blade_Grader, “Blade Dozer”, Blade_Dozer, Transmission, OM (Owner Manual), IPL (Illustrated Parts List), SM (Service Manual), Eaton, Onan, Kohler, Tecumseh, and Wiring Titles for tractor models have their names/numbers “520-H” or “Charger” or “500” or “854” and years like 1988 or 1975-1977 The naming isn’t 100% consistent (what in life ever is?) so sometimes ya gotta be creative and do multiple searches! One distinct advantage of being a supporter member is that you can search, refine your search terms, and search again with no delay. Regular members are limited to slower turnarounds.

Oh man, I love these old timber frame barns, I'll be watching!

Smear it with grease and put it in a big zip lock bag for the future.

Seems to happen occasionally where the Forum folks do not get notified... But I can relate that the loose end to tell another Forum member is way down the priority list..

Take it off and bench test it is best. Then open it up.

Norman is a 6 speed technically, but unloaded I always start in at least 2nd. Sometimes, 3rd feels right. 1st is super creeper. Starting in 1st with no load, almost makes the acceleration a more shaky time than starting in a higher gear.

Wheels finally done, valve stems and dust caps made from M2.5mm bolts. Just got to make a suitable centre for the hubs now. The mode is designed to have a csk screw fitted as an extra way for retaining the hub. But it looks wrong so I'll make something to fit that looks the part.

I would charge the battery externally and try the measurements again. I would also run it as is for maybe 15 minutes and see if the charge voltage begins to taper off. I would also try a different battery if you have one. A rectifier responds directly to the load placed on it. Simple Ohms law in action. Volts are equal to resistance times current. When you start your tractor, you dump a lot of stored energy at once. Directly after, your charging system has to work harder to bring it back to normal levels. It tapers off as the battery is replenished. Point being, you’ll see higher voltages until the battery is charged. Another possibility is your battery is getting old and places a greater load on the charging system. Several of my tractors charge as high as 16vdc or more immediately after starting, but this tapers down to 13vdc after a few minutes of running. A worn out battery or one with a bad cell can work your charging system excessively.

As far a the fittings themselves you are correct if they are SAE ORB#6...the # 5 are much harder to find...

As other have said you can leave it spinning or just leave the PTO engaged. Earlier C-Series didn't even have a PTO Brake. Before you buy the friction disc, remove the PTO bell for inspection. You want to look at the PTO Bells' surface that mates with the clutch disc. When new it was a smooth flat machined surface, but not polished shiny. Today I'm sure its not perfectly smooth, but shouldn't have significant grooves or ridges. It will be worn shiny like a car brake rotor, but shouldn't have blue spots from heating. You can put a sheet of wet or dry sandpaper on a flat hard surface to knock the high spots of any ridges or rough spots down a little. Start really coarse (100 grit, your TRYING to sand cast steel), then work down to finer grades of sandpaper. Now would be a good time to check the bearings. There is the outer roller bearing and inner needle bearing. The needle bearing is fairly easy to clean and re-grease. Don't put to much grease or it will sling it everywhere including on the friction disc which needs to stay ungreased. There is a seal at the clutch disc end of the needle bearing. Look it over, make sure it doesn't have any tears, rough edges, or hard surface, etc. The outer roller bearing cannot be re-greased in place. It is a sealed bearing. But after 40 years, as Grease Pete suggest, you can remove the snap ring, tap it out, gently remove the bearing seal, clean, re-grease, reassemble. All of the above is probable making your Scientist background analyze just doing away with the PTO. You shouldn't have told us! If you do away with the PTO bell, there will be a smooth polished surface on the shaft where it rode. If you think you might want to use a PTO someday, clean that and protect it from rusting. Maybe even wrap it with duct tape, poor mans rust preventative and protector. Every decision has a Cause and Effect.

If it was shorted to ground, Mr. Sparkels would have stopped by to say hello! . Normal electomagnetic clutch coil resistance should be in the 3-5 ohm range. https://macsmobileairclimate.org/2021/09/07/facts-to-know-about-the-compressor-clutch-coil/

Common interchanging of the two words that describe two different electrical components. A rectifier converts AC to DC. Voltage in is voltage out. They are unregulated. They do not generate noticeable heat. A regulator (e.g. the solid state ones used in WH tractors since the 70’s) both converts AC to DC and constrains input voltages from 14-40 to output voltage of 14-15 volts. It is the regulating feature needing to dissipate the “surplus” voltage/current that causes the device to heat up and hence the reason for the cooling fins. Many small engines do have only a rectifier; some have only a single diode. They can do this because their stator for generating battery-charging electricity is specifically designed to deliver only 2-3 amps at about 12-15 volts when turning at 3600 RPM. Enough to charge a battery but not to cook it.

Cool tractor !! Good to see another diesel fanatic.

Good eye Bob. Never figured Jim @WHX?? was a Hello Kitty follower. .

If you aren't going to use the PTO to mow, snow blow or rototill then you could just remove the PTO from the engine. As far as prevention goes you must consider the fact the this is a 40 year old friction disc, nothing lasts forever.

Wow that is a nice tractor.

With no problem other than the hood thing KP mentioned but with those mods already a cut hood would not be considered sacrilegious. Our good buddy @Achto did a short frame with a 9 or 10 HP Hatz diesel. A very popular tractor in these parts.

I see another camera in your future Trina ... There's prolly a dozen places one can take it in on a thumb drive and they will make you a regular calendar. A Walgreen's drug store fer sure.

your penance is to say three Wheel Horses and four Cecil Ponds; go and sin no more.

friend of mine owns an excavating business and ordered a large item - so an 18 wheeler recently pulled the truck into his property with the item and out climbed from the tractor a young girl in her 20s -- so my friend had chat with her -- she's making over $100,000 per yr while many of her friends and former school mates who went to college make half that annual $$ and have huge college debt -- Amazing how the world turns?????????

So put an 8-speed in front of an 8-speed in front of an 8-speed?

Built one for my FIL a couple years ago. I don’t have pics with the hoses attached. Bin is from an old Kubota system to make dumps easy. He picked up 10 loads today with it. Gotta move the hoses around one of these days, move them to the center so the hose flexes less- but so far it works great. The vacuum works off the PTO as well. His only complaint has been hitting the hitch with his knee when not using the bagger. It’s all held on with a Reese hitch, so one pin and it drops off, but he tends to leave it on year round.

Happy Birthday @BOB ELLISON, we are all glad you were born.

I keep a good spare, they do break, i had one let go a couple years ago, i grabbed a JD clutch lining online, cleaned by bell really well, attached it with jd weld then trimmed the excess.

Yep. As a trucker I get a better than average wage on no educational debt.

All we do for leaves is blow them to the forest. That mulch idea is interesting.....

This one is a 3hp diesel, and she burns coal right in your face from those exhaust pipes 😂

Made this swap yesterday, after thoroughly cleaning all contact surfaces. No more creeping speed adjustments.