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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/06/2024 in all areas
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10 pointsIt seems complete but needs a few things. It’s an 8speed, I’m pretty excited to have it, especially for as little as I paid for it. It needs a choke cable, front tire and a gas cap. The guy said it ran good when he parked it around 5 years ago. I’ll work on in the next couple of weeks and report back.
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8 pointsFinishing up some painting on the C101 - soon to be a C-121 Gen start engine. Still quite a bit to do but almost there.
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6 pointsA few weeks ago a member requested guidance in rewiring a 312-8 from the magneto ignition system on his Kohler M12 to a battery ignition system on a replacement engine and retain the safety switch functions. I began looking at possible methods of accomplishing his goal and found that there were two basic systems depending on the ignition switch type. The 300 and 400 series Wheel Horses can be broken down to three groups when it comes to basic wiring. 1985 and 1986 all had K series Kohler engines with battery powered ignition systems with the exception of the 1986 308-8 which was a Magnum M-8 and the 1986 420LSE which was Kohler powered with a M-20. After all, this is Wheel Horse so there had to be exceptions. 1987 to 1997 were M series Kohlers and 1998 and later were Kohler Command powered. All 300 and 400 models that were equipped with Kohler Magnum engines from 1987 to 1991 used the 103991-ignition switch and from 1992 to 1997 they all used the 116338-ignition switch. These two switches are not interchangeable and the method of transitioning from magneto ignition to battery ignition was a bit different depending on the ignition switch. (see switches below) The goal was to avoid having to rewire the tractor while retaining the safety switches. The seat and PTO switches on a magneto ignition system are wired in series while the seat and PTO switches are wired in parallel in a battery ignition system. With the use of inexpensive automotive 5 pin relays, I was able to come up with a satisfactory solution that isn’t too involved. Utilizing this method the engine will shut off whenever the operator leaves the seat regardless of the PTO switch position. This is a bit inconvenient but it is the only way I could find without rewiring the safety switches. The wire gauge used on the safety switches of a magneto ignition tractor are too small to be used for a battery powered safety switch system. First, we will cover the modifications needed for the 1987 to 1991 300 and 400 series that have a 103991 ignition switch. Since the Ignition switch does not have power to the "A" (accessory) terminal in the Start position we will use one relay to provide 12 volts to the ignition coil during Start. This will be done by running a wire from the small purple wire on the solenoid to the relay terminals 30 and 85 to finish 12 volts coming from terminal 87 of the start relay to the ignition coil + when the relay closes. Placing the ignition switch will provide power to the small purple wire actuating the relay and passing power to the ignition coil if the operator is in the seat. The Dark Blue wire from the PTO switch that presently goes to the magneto coil will be disconnected from the PTO switch and eliminated. A wire from the seat switch light green side will be connected to relay terminal 86 to allow the relay to close if the operator is in seat during Start. (see start diagram) Once the engine starts and the key is released the white (sometimes pink) wire from the voltage regulator to the ignition switch “I” terminal will have voltage to it. When the key is released to the Run position the second relay will provide 12 volts to the ignition coil. The white wire from the voltage regulator to the ignition switch will be spliced into and connected to relay terminals 30 and 85. The ignition coil and light green seat switch wires will be the same as the other relay. (see run diagram and combined diagrams) On the later 1992 to 1997 models with the 116338-ignition switch a single relay can be used because the “L” (light/accessory) terminal has power in the Start and run positions. This wiring would be the same as the run diagram.
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6 pointsI think so! I now have 3 of them, 2 8 speeds and one hydro. I now have dedicated tractors for a tiller, snowblower with cab and a mower. This could be the start of a sickness!😬
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5 pointsExperimental low tech Russian drone, you need to inform homeland security. Short range, big enough for a decent payload, camouflaged perfectly. Just a few issues with guidance.
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5 pointsOK Oliver, and all you other guys .... I'm still kicking (kinda amazing at 85yrs old) And yeah I guess I should have at least mentioned why I wasnt active here, .... but I didnt. I guess my main reason was down here in N La there just are no Horses, and parts were/are getting more and more scarce. Craig List is practically useless with mostly businesses, I guess Facebook has took most of their traffic, I hate that, Im not that enthused with facebook, but I do follow it regularly. In the last year or so I have only seen 2 or 3 Horses and they were too far away and one was way over priced, and were the 'C' versions, and I am primarily a 'D' lover. I currently still have 2 D180's that I use pretty regular, though my main grass cutter is .... gasp! a John Deere X360. Thats one of the dealer types, not the big box version (power steering!!) I miss this forum, really a great bunch of guys, with monitors keeping it clean and on the main topic -- HORSES!! I am back now because one of my 180's is in dire need of attention of some clean up, a paint job and new seat -- and, the reason I'm here is to get some decals! I dont have any idea why the "member not available" is coming up??? 'pacer' (Bill Pace)
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5 pointsVery nice addition to the Herd!! @SylvanLakeWH and @WHX?? hey look! Someone else got a C160 pile goin' !!
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4 pointsThat Amazon Thanksgiving turkey delivery is really screwed up. Thanks for the warning not to order! LOL That's quite the unexpected adventure huh?
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4 points
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4 pointsTractor heavy and trying to thin the herd but figuring Dan and mine's tractor pricing 274.5 horses ...
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4 pointsTraded my chipper shredder and a Franklin for this 875. It spent a good part of it's life at a camp hauling firewood. It was given to my friend Bruce about a year and a half ago. it had been switched to a solenoid start circuit and didn't have the PTO parts or the lift parts. Well I had the rockshaft and gave it to him. Bruce installed it and found out why it was missing. When you raise the lift the rockshaft shorts out the solenoid! Engine smokes a tad too. 6 year old Autopart battery still has 230 CCA in it and Bruce says he never put a charger on it ! It's got your standard "Farm Implement Red" blown on paint job but it's somewhat presentable Already swapped out the back wheels and installed studs. Got to rewire it, toss the sediment bowl run new shutoff and gas lines, new trans filter and belt and install a re-ringed Fireball 8. I have all of the PTO parts and going to have to get a dial a height unit and a trans fan screen. Going to make it an "Old School " mowing machine.
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3 pointsNew shoes. There may have been some cussing involved during installation.
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3 pointsFor all that trouble I'd at least be getting a turkey dinner out of the deal.
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3 pointsIf you’ve removed the breather for any reason, the reed valve may be backwards. That or the fuel pump gasket is a common place for the engine to leak some. And no, I doubt SAE30 would make any difference.
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3 pointsThank you Richard I just somewhat had this problem with rewiring Alice the C-120. PO went the other way tho ... from a battery ign. to mag. powered M-12. Thankfully he had changed out the ign switches and since the safeties were hit and miss so I nixed them.
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3 pointsI did this a couple days ago…rented an e-bike. Very fun and covered a lot of ground with it. Didnt get anywhere near the exersize benefits of my regular bike though. Maybe I used the battery too much? Clobbered the battery in 1 hour and 45 minutes. Rode around and into Diamond Head, then buzzed through a bunch of high-end neighborhoods before heading back to the hotel (in the small red circle)
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsThey all say that. But it is a Kohler so it will be running in no time. Nice looking tractor, keep us posted on your progress.
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3 pointsI would really Love to find 1 of these Old Classics. Get out the white sheets, disassemble Everything & make it All "new" again. I Love Old Equipment, Tools & Machinery.
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2 pointsHey guys, curious if I'm being too picky and if this is normal or not. Picked up a 1985 312-8 with the Kohler 301S engine on it. Noticed engine was sludgy looking so I cleaned off with brake cleaner and a good scrub and pressure wash. Couple days and less than an hour run time later and I notice it's sludgy looking again... Can't quite tell where the leak is coming from but it's all over the front of the engine. Looks to be from the carb, to the fuel pump, all the way down to the pan. All seems to be on the front only. No drips or puddles on the ground and dipstick looks spot on, so it's not that bad, but just enough to make the engine grimy. Is this ok to let be, it being an older engine and all? Id rather not tear and rebuild when it otherwise runs perfectly. Anyone ever tried a stop leak? I have 10w30 in it because I'll be using it in temps between 25 and 85 F but I'm wondering if switching back to 30SAE would help at all. Thanks all!
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2 pointsI do. I didn’t get a shot of the bird, but I did get one of the blood spatter and busted window and decided to spare all y’all. 😄
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2 pointsI use a pellet tube for cold smoking cheese & deviled eggs. Do not light the grill, light the tube and place it in the grill to get smoke with very low heat. I like best to cold smoke when it is below 30 degrees outside. You can cold smoke when it is warmer outside by placing your food above a pan of ice. The ice will help keep the food cold while smoking. Smoking tube. https://www.amazon.com/Smoke-Tube-Billowing-Stainless-Smoking/dp/B091J3YHYS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.cgWeSTkUc1lNVetz6YvNG4Ei__4_uzIjbvEyT1rPzyFG9fq47QSNoXFv0YcOKqfgtqSBva2JEFOnFAYiNF6XHm4_e_0079Appwcgf9C38DrX1CTSny1hpwqpWAeWoXQ0zVbI9fr2FQdOwkhl0b0dncN2BzPkZin328yLQa6Q1Y7HPpYzk5X2vhslQgjLfFdHh35sQdgFR_8_g2F65sAjG-qDr_MnpJhqojYgm7X3U-8.af_Oa7yDTd2jL5-DRbNKRoBmwdlRN_c4WNN8RqkLIuI&dib_tag=se&hvadid=651117391410&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9019452&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6316475144409043037&hvtargid=kwd-136630165949&hydadcr=23384_13620038&keywords=cold%2Bsmoke%2Btube&qid=1730943492&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
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2 pointsand never saw armored truck following a hearst. That said ... Figured as long as I have a atv that sits and never gets used might as well have one of these.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsRemove and clean the internals of your breather. If the filter is oil saturated clean it with mineral spirits and let it dry over night and be sure the louvers of the cover are pointed UP.
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2 points
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2 pointsSeveral thoughts. Clean it again and carefully watch the cylinder head gasket area. Pretty normal for those to go bad eventually. I'd seriously consider removing and cleaning your breather as a matter of maintenance. Because you'll have to remove the carb you might as well schmooge that out too. Very easy. IMHO: DO NOT USE STOP LEAK. >>>>> EVER <<<<< Find and fix the leak. Period. I don't have a manual for your model handy. I'd defer to that. That said..... Trina's mid 60s 8 HP Kohlers like HD30 all year. My mid 70s 16 HP Kohlers do NOT like to start below about 20⁰ unless I change to 10W30.
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2 pointsSince you went soft with heat, ac, a cab etc. you don't need that Senior... I'll send @Pullstart over to take it off your hands and park it in my garage next to the little A-60 you took care of for awhile... You don't need to dust it off or anything...
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2 pointsSo this is like driving a whole bunch of tractors at once with heat/AC into the bargain? Good deal.
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2 pointsThe purpose of the Electorial College is so every State has a say in the election process. Popular vote process would nullify the smaller States compared to the largest States. Simply stated.
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2 pointsGot off the plane, drove home from the airport and got right into leaf duty. 414-8 with a 42”RD was the weapon of choice to chop/mulch my leaves. Started out doing North/South passes and then did the yard again going East/West.
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2 pointsDo a whole turkey for Thanks giving & Christmas. Never just a breast though. I would treat it like chicken, Cook at 275 - 300 degrees until meat temp reaches 165. !65 is the safe point for any poultry I usually run my bone in poultry meat temp to 185, still stays juicy but comes off the bone better than it does at 165.
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2 points
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2 pointsApple pie, cinnamon rolls, ribs, Mac n cheese, baked beans, monkey bread. Love my pellet grills.
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2 pointsSooo, no drinking Port Wine in there unless the cup has a tight lid with a straw ?? WOW !!!
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2 pointsWe looked at Shelter Logic and then we went with Farm Tek. They both seem heavy duty, but this one had the clear roof, so we went with that. This one is pretty heavy duty and came with a 15 year warranty. We've managed to keep the snow off from it as much as we could and it is doing good, it is 7 years old now. C-85
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2 pointsYou need the long frame for your 312-8. These frames all appear to be the long frame. The blades come in 42, 48, and 54" widths. I prefer the 48" blades as even when angled they clear a path wider than the rear tires. IMO, the 54" wide blades put too much side load making it difficult to steer. Yes, you do need the axle mounting bracket. I would not be concerned about the blade angle lever. They can easily be bent or a spacer added to move them out to clear the brake pedal.
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1 pointPictures would help but I’m gonna guess it’s spray from the breather. Clean it up and make sure it’s reed is properly installed.
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1 pointThe plow frame with the blade will take you 1/2 hour to remove the first time. After that maybe 10 minutes to remove or install. The rear axle bracket does not need to be removed to install the deck.
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointAm I supposed to cut them off and give them to @19richie66 ?? Not as many as there was awhile ago ... 36 miles on today... Do I look like Al Burmeister??? Got that right ... actually Steve plan on lots of hard water horsing with it ...
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1 pointThank you @oliver2-44. I did something somewhat similar. I'll admit, didn't tip the front wheels up when draining though. I drained the old murky fluid - yes it had water in it - and then refilled with 1 quart of 80w90 gear oil, and 1 quart of kerosene. Drove it around the yard for 15 minutes, then drained that mixture and refilled with 2 quarts of 80w90. Was a bit overfilled, so drained some of that out - now that I've taken that and measured it in an old quart oil container, it looks like it was just 1/2 quart overfilled, not 3/4 quart. So far running smoothly! Am I safe to assume that, now that I've flushed, drained, refilled, and replaced the old ripped shifter boot, the fluid shouldn't need changed anytime soon? Old manual doesn't talk about draining ,just keeping it topped off, which it is now.
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1 pointI have used short and tall chute single stages to clear several of those 30" snows that we used to get. They work best in the deep dry snows. Not so well in the 3" slushy stuff we get now. For the singles to work efficiently, the housing must be kept full. To do this, the ground speed must be varied and IMO, this can only be accomplished with a Hydro. I sold my blowers 5 years ago as we have not had a decent snow in 10 years. I do have a dual stage that will probably never be used....got it in a trade deal a couple years back. If you ever get one of those 30"ers Joe, call me. I would love to use this dually before I sell it.
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1 pointSounds like a very interesting project. I'd love to see pics or plans or whatever. Two and a half to three tons is at least twice what I would feel safe putting on a wheel horse frame no matter what the axles were. I'm not sure I would even advise you to try boxing the frame which of course would add exponential strength. If you want to put 6,000 lb on a rolling chassis I'd advise building something custom.
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1 pointNobody gonna comment on what a lucky but stupid guy Mac is? He's giving them away free again. That pit boss was 700 plus smoker all day and the Trager is a $$ grill too. Both brands the Cadillac of smokers. I woulda kept them and have them stacked up like cordwood on the deck ... Back ups like tractors! I'm about as stupid in giving them away and by the looks of the 702 so ain't @stevasaurus
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1 pointBuy one for the FRAME. Get a good strong heavy TARP. We've tried several between friends and family. The original covers that come in the inexpensive and midgrade (any residential) portable garages are good for ONE season. One. My experience shows me that ONLY the super HD commercial grade tarps are worth relying on. Big $$$$$$
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1 pointYes, the axle bracket is all you need. If you plan to use the blade for grading dirt, you may want the solid link down pressure bar. It is normally not required for snow plowing. I am concerned about the big loop in the fuel line getting caught. I would turn the valve to the left and shorten the fuel line removing the loop.