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and never saw armored truck following a hearst. That said ... Figured as long as I have a atv that sits and never gets used might as well have one of these.

So a few months ago I responded to an ad on CL for a free Traeger Tailgate Smoker. Went and got it. Cleaned it up. Used it a half dozen times and sold it for 200 bucks. Not bad for free. Well yesterday I saw another ad on CL for a free smoker at the curb. Said didn't know if it worked or not. I hmmm'ed and hawwww'ed and weather I should take the drive to see if it still was there. Ad had been up an hour. We'll I told Jeffrey to get in the truck and we went for a little ride to go see. 15 mins later I was struggling to try and get it in the bed of my truck. So heavy. I wasn't going to leave it. Tore my legs up some getting it up and in but I did it. Came home and unloaded it. Wheeled it over to the garage. Plugged it in. Works like a champ !!! Can't believe people just toss these out. It's a Pit Boss 820 ps1. I like it even better then the Traeger. It's larger and more features. Can't wait to use it. Most likely sell it like the last one. Anyone have a favorite rib recipe ?

repairing the little trailer. went further than i thought. no welding gas, so i just kept adding and grinding, cutting....

Look what I just bought

Baby backs, lightly coated with yellow mustard to hold your dry rub of choice on. Set the smoker at 225, throw the ribs on the grate for 3hrs. After that wrap them up tight in foil & put them back on for 2hrs. When this time is up, remove the foil and add your favorite sauce (if you wish to sauce them). Put them back on the smoker for 1hr to glaze the sauce or just crisp up your rub. Have fall off the bone ribs with a deep smoke ring every time. Easy as 3-2-1.

Very NICE find! J 1 8 = Sept 1 1958 Rust can be cleaned out of the gas tank by using vinegar The lift cable is held with a simple metal tab by one of the bolts holding the seat spring to the trans There are no tractors actually badged 1959. They all had RJ-58 but were assembled in 59. There are some indicators of 59's but I don't see any on that one. Why do you think it's a 59? The only way to know for sure would be having the sales slip and the serial number on the tractor.

Just picked this up today. I believe it to be an RJ-59. You RJ gurus will have to chime in. It is complete with original tires, guards and almost all decals. And it runs although the fuel tank needs replacing if I can't get it clean. It is rusty top down about 1/4 way. Lots of sediment in bowl. Looks like the fuel valve is getting clogged. I have a few questions since this is my first RJ model. Need to confirm it is in fact a 59. I will post several pics along with trans #. The oil bath air cleaner is present with a partial orange maintenance decal. Thinking about restoring all 4 wheels and seat. Maybe linseed oil everything else. Opinions?

Last month I posted about whether I should patina a replacement hood for the C-160 I was working on or repaint it (the one on it had been hacked to clear the muffler as some PO was too cheap to by a pipe elbow). I had repainted all the rest of the tractor. You guys shamed me into repainting. Even bought the harbor Freight Surface conditioning tool. (Worked great on the top and sides not so good on the grill)... So today went to put the pretty repainted hood on the C-160.... Anybody have a line on a hood stretcher??? So what was your biggest screw up??? I am going to have a beer now....

@D_Mac 6hrs is a long time to wait for your ribs to cook. You might want to throw on some stuffed poblano peppers for an appetizer to hold you over while you wait for the ribs. And don't forget some apple pie and left over pie crust cinnamon rolls for desert. I may use my smoker a lot.

Nobody suggested to crank it til it snaps and back off a 1/4 turn?

Speaking of wearing out. Have you finally run out of mirrors in your house?

Sorry for the messy garage! But I have now owned my 1977 Wheelhorse C-100 for 20 years! I got it when I was 13 years old for £300. I still remember clearly how excited I was, I live in the UK but I have always loved old American cars and 1960s and 1970s stuff, so when I got this it was the coolest thing ever. I have a ton of memories of driving it around, with a trailer on the back and my friends would take turns driving each other down to our shed/club house in the woods. It has been repainted but I always keep it rubbed down with an oily rag because I live on Dartmoor and it is super humid and wet here, especially in winter. Cheers all

Realy nothing wrong with the 1985 312-8 other then rusty metal and bad paint. So I'm taking it apart to remove and treat the rust and give it a full paint job. Haven't started on the hood yet, not looking forward to removing those 39 year old decails. Still haven't got all the glue off the fender I would leave them on but they have turned up along the edges, and faided. I have used heat on the decails and gas on the glue. Has anyone found a better method

Nice! Two questions: How many plows it pull? Why ain't it red?

So easy a caveman can do it!

I use a heat gun for decal removal, and have found that with just the right amount of heat the glue will come off with the decal. Not enough heat and the decal will tear and is heard to remove. Too much heat and it leaves the glue behind. 3M makes a great adhesive remover too!! I’ve also tried to just repaint a tractor and then I can’t help myself from taking it further apart and then it becomes a full blown restoration!!

But only because we haven't figured out how to fit it with hydroboost yet.

That IS the braking system.

In this case, the date code is correct. The I is not used as a month, so J is Sept. That means that the trans case was cast on that date, but the horse could have been assembled in 1959. The only way I know to identify a 1959, without the paperwork, is if the date code has the 9 instead of the 8...if the trans is original to that horse.

@STLWheelHorseThe bearing you posted doesn't look like the axle bearing. Check the above post for the correct numbers. You can get them at your local bearing supply , on line or at one of our vendors, https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/bearings/ if you have any questions you can give Lowell there a call he's very helpful. Your 5053 transmission is the same internally as this 5085 in this video by Stevasaurus, he our Transmission guru. The 4 speed transmissions are really easy to work on, especially if you don't have to remove the shift forks, which you don't to replace a bearing and seal. Actually to replace a wheel bearing and seal you can lift out the differential and probable not even disturb the rest of the gears.

I’ve never had luck enough to find a working PTO for my Bronco, but my zero turn has gone through two electric clutches. Then I found something called a “soft start clutch controller”. It’s small enough to hide on a tractor and measures engine RPM from a coil you make on the spark plug wire. It engages the clutch with pulses similar to how antilock brakes work. Once the PTO is moving, the controller drops to solid DC and stays until disengagement. Definitely makes for a softer engagement! I have used mine for four years, mowing 2-3 times a week with zero issues. I paid about $60 for mine. If I ever find a clutch for my Bronco, or any other machine, I’ll be using another one. https://www.gdimeters.com/products.cfm?Page=Products&Product=SoftStart Clutch Controller

They can be made awfully pretty with a little work. I absolutely love my Bronco! If your tranny is strong with the ATF, keep using it!

Do you understand how a governor works? It tries to reduce the rpm and the higher the rpm the more force it produces to reduce the rpm. On the other side of the governor arm is the throttle cable and spring which is trying to increase rpm. When those two forces equal that is the rpm you end up with.

Finally found time to hang the wonderful prize from @19richie66's fantastic give away. Excellent quality . Thank you sooo much Richie !! Looks great with @Ed Kennell's awesome handy work.

Red Green would fix that right up...

It's usually dark by the time I get a chance to clear my driveway, so I decided to upgrade my lights. I started with replacing the stock 1156 bulbs with some bright LEDs. Big improvement. I also had a set of vintage tractor lights I had picked up for free, and there were already hole in the hood from a previous owner. They mounted up nicely, but when I turned them on, they were noticeably yellow compared to the LEDs. So, I found some LED replacement bulbs and, VIOLA! Quite possible they'll be too bright if it's snowing!

Cover-Tech Woodstock. NB 1 888- 325-5757 Portable garage. Neighbor down the Road 1 mile has had his up for 7 ish years. After last years heavy ,wet snow it's still up. He has it anchored very well. Not cheap. I would definitely consider one.

Save your money they are garbage. Or better yet let me know when you are throwing money out the window I'll stand outside and collect it ... Update on that thread: I give the frame to @Achto and him and another buddy and they order a replacement cover which lasted how long Dan?? I guess they gave him a discount on a better grade cover right Dan???

Buy one for the FRAME. Get a good strong heavy TARP. We've tried several between friends and family. The original covers that come in the inexpensive and midgrade (any residential) portable garages are good for ONE season. One. My experience shows me that ONLY the super HD commercial grade tarps are worth relying on. Big $$$$$$

it’s better than green…

I do the mustard and dry rub for a couple of hours. Then I pull them off and rub them with brown sugar and honey. Wrap then in foil for another couple of hours.

Charcoal lighter fluid or naphtha works well at removing glue. 3M gum wheels work well too. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065358/

Exactly what i do... just add patience... Blow dryer really slow... gas for the glue...

Looked this up couple years ago, got some crossover #s . SEPW. (small engine parts warehouse ) item # 48, ball 25-2490 and #49 spring 25-2480. Got got some more crossover #s let me know. LJ at (LJ fluid power) helped with a lot of parts.

That bearing you posted is not the right bearing. The right bearing is #KOYO or Torington B-1616 and the case gasket is # 3912. To replace the bearing on the left side of the trans...take trans off horse, drain out oil, leave the shallow side of the trans down and unbolt and pull off the left side of trans, tap out bearing from the inside (the seal will come out with the bearing), tap in new bearing from the outside and recess 1/8", tap in seal, put trans back together.

A full-time tach isn’t really needed. I’ve been using an app on my iPhone called Video Tachometer when setting idle and WOT (along with ear protection). The free functionality, with accuracy to ±10 RPM is more than good enough for my purposes so I haven’t paid for the premium version!

Just remember these air cooled splash lubricated engines must always be operated at a minimum of 1/2 throttle and full throttle when under load. Don't try to save fuel and blow an engine.

I did a 7 hour round trip today for this beautiful 500 hour 520. She runs awesome!

Electric tape * and grease the seal and shaft.

After changing the VR back in August the BBT ran the tractor about for a few weeks. Then the battery went dead... I had checked the output at 12.5 to 12.8 volts back then. I found an old thread about adjusting the mechanical regulator. Now it's putting out a nice healthy 13.8 to 13.9.

Did you put tape over the keyseat before installing the new seal?? If not, you MAY have cut the lip - "k-nackerd" as @lynnmor described it.

I have to share this. I think you know what it takes to change out a transmission, especially a 3 speed. Well, I was replacing my #5053 trans with another one, the old one needed seals and a new 3rd gear. So, I have my wife working the hoist while I try to line up the eye bolts to mount the transmission. We got it done and she went inside. Something was not right...I had a gap down the top of the trans. It did not take long to realize that I had left the 2 top bolts in the trans. I had to drop the trans again, take out those bolts and then re-mount the trans. It was like putting up garage doors, the first one takes an 3 hours, the 2nd one takes minutes. And then I had to tell the wife, I could do that without her. I deserved her wrath.

How many tries does it take to start a Left Handed bolt in a Right Handed hole?? Only the Head Lug Nut knows.

Here is the link for the 1156 replacements https://a.co/d/7btuNy8 Here is the link for the PAR36 bulbs that fit into my vintage 4.5" tractor lamp housings https://a.co/d/hRwg1Xz Untitled video - Made with Clipchamp (3).mp4

Returned the C-105 to towing duties after sending the two E-141's down the road with the rest of the SL&WHN RR... kids don't mind...

FINALLY added wiring for trailer lights so mounting electric quick compressor with small tank for tire filling and air horn shenanigans. Used my long frame plow and adapted the thatcher. My yard has hard edges that I can't use the pull behind it was designed for so put it on the front

Day 16 (Well really all week) Got the rear rims sanded down and ready for paint. Also painted the belt guard hitch and right hand floor board. Also since I’m using the 23/10.5/12 ags got in the 1 inch wheel spacers. (Sorry there not very good pictures)