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Got all the new decals on and they are awesome! Even though the tractor isn’t finished it really brings it together with them on there. Last things to do is reseal the onan that’s leaking like a pig and get the rims and tires on it.

Tuesaturday??? @joebob’s grandson at the helm of my Xi for a bit…

Were you ripped off by a member of RedSquarer? If so, did you send a PM to the person to attempt to resolve the problem? Over the past twelve years I have never had a problem with any of our members on any transaction. If someone were intentionally defrauding members here the moderators can easily deny them access to the site.

That any way to talk about yourself?!?!? Remember fellas we are talking about buying here & not selling. That's a whole 'nother thread. Avoid clicking on the is this still available button. That will turn a seller right there. Again start a real conversation. Check how long it's been up for sale. If it appears to be a good deal but has been posted for awhile be wary. Never let your guard down & keep your wits about you ... even if you have wheel horse fever. Sometimes one has to (politely) say I'll pass and walk away. Read ... dissect ... the sellers ad word by word. Look for grammatical errors & spelling. If it sounds like a two year old wrote it that might be a flag. Yah some people are just lousy at it ... ... so a grain of salt there. Ask the famous question ... why are you selling it? Watch for body language on the return answer. Ask how long have you owned it. All legitimate questions in a buy and and any shady answers walk. As always if unsure take plenty of pictures and bring them back here for the pros to appraise. If the seller refuses to let you take pics don't walk ... RUN!

Ha! Selling should give you 4 credits on a Business Psychology Class!! Had a Doghouse in the back yard years ago that my son made for their family dog. Marriage went south, so did the Ex-wife & the dog!! So, I posted it for FREE on CL - stating where the taker must pick it up on their own, no delivery. I thought that was pretty clear, until I got a response from a woman whining, she wanted it but it would not fit in her Prius. Seems the bed of my wife's Ranger was in the picture too - this ingrate wanted it DELIVERED to the other end of the State for free !!! I told her "I'm a nice guy, but not THAT nice"....

Not this time Jim. These 80 yo arthritic hands are still recovering from yesterdays butchering. I need to be selective on what projects I consider. He doesn't quite qualify for a full mount, but he'll go on the wall If I can find a spot. Kinda interesting genetics. I think he is probably related to the one I took in 2022 out of the same tree. 2022 2024 Not much wall space remaining in Ed's room. I do have some good news. Some of you know the story on this little piebald buck that was evidence in a 2009 Maryland poaching case that happened at Rocky Gap State Park. After the trial I got the deer and did the full mount. Many people from Cumberland, Md. spent hours watching this deer and his mother feed in the no hunting area of the park. For three years I have been trying to donate the mount for display at the Campground visitor center. They refused to take it due to the lack of paper work, but I just got approval that they can now put it on display. So I am cleaning him up and will be delivering him to the park in two weeks.

I guess my first question is how did you get ripped? I know it's pain full but it may help others. Agreed 100% Bob but unfortunately most are miles away to deal with on a tractor score. Even then if interested in a tractor a few things to follow ... applies to here too. Never buy sight unseen unless you already know the tractors history. They ALWAYS look better in pics. Research the seller ... goes triple for FB people. Look at their profile and posting history. Are they really interested in tractors or just trying to sell a stolen machine or flipping it for a quick buck?? Sadly yes it happens. Said it ran when parked but did it drive? Grill the guy like a sammich. Look the seller in the eyes and start a real conversation. Feel the seller out and hopefully you can tell if he's honest or pulling your stump. Watch for stutters and stammers from the scammers. Beware of the many I don't knows. Is the guy a collector/restorer? How long has he been dealing in tractors. Does he go to shows or exhibit? Does he have a rap sheet? If it sounds too good of a deal it might be. If it's a project know that before going in. Many more as I think of them.

Thank you sir, will confirm that all again but on initial inspection everything appeared good. I thought I'd share with you all the breakdown of costs so far. I believe this will cover everything. -$500 for the tractor -$68 initial maintenance (fluids, filters, etc) -$97 replacement parts (boots, gauge, gas cap, etc) -$78 new seat -$21 misc hardware and tools required $774 out the door for a new to me tractor, running smoothly, sounds pretty good to me! What do you guys think?

Awesome work! Like @WHX?? I’d have written that off as less superior a long time ago! We also have bigger heavier horses falling out of the rafters! On another note, your big heart for an old tractor and for helping those in the community in need deserves a big high five! Thanks for doing what’s right!

Morning Eric and Trina. Thanks for doing the calendar this Year.

Your charging system responds directly to the load your battery requires of it. In short- I wouldn’t be concerned with a 15vdc charge rate right after cranking. Several of my machines peak at 16vdc immediately after starting, and taper off to around 13vdc after 20-30 minutes of charging.

Hi all, I did some research and decided on this machine from one of our tool dealers. It is kind of a badge engineered version of a popular design. This one cost £335 with a diamond wheel as standard. Some were well into £1,000 so I'm happy with the price. Vert easy to set up an use, very quick and really good results on drills from 1/8 to 1/2 inch.

On engines with a battery ignition system like yours I install a second wire from the "I" (ignition) terminal on the ignition switch with a fuse to operate the fuel pump. Mine are located in the tunnel where the shift levers/motion controller are located. This keeps them below the outlet of the fuel tank and protected from being hit or snagged by anything.

There's really no way to answer that. It's simply life. But I will tell you that the folks on this forum are as good as gold. Nobody is an 'outsider' here no matter how recently they joined.

I put electric pumps on all my 's when the stock pumps go bad, this one is on my C-120. The locations differ between different models, but this location has worked great for me with the gas tank under the hood like yours. As far as your old pump goes you can just leave it on, but I just make my own block off plates by tracing a gasket on a piece of steel & drill two holes, pretty easy to do. This tractor starts INSTANTLY now, no choke, throttle at idle, sitting for a month. I usually wire mine off the Accessory circuit WITH a fuse.

I really like going electric especially on the under the seat tractors. Any of the ones you listed are fine. I mounted a Mr. Gasket 42s like this. It simply made for a clean installation. There was a wire back there already that was hot with the switch on. It was for the seat switch or reverse backup key switch, neither of which are operational anymore. I put the same pump on the 314H but located it elsewhere since the tranny filter was in the way. Two tractors have the cheapy 2 fer < $20 pumps and they are doing fine as well. I just didn't trust them on the more critical workers. The 2005 has a Command engine and I just fed into the fuel pump. The 314, 854 and 76 are fed right into the carb. You can find blank off plates online or simple make them using a gasket as a pattern.

Remove the retaining bolt from the end of your crankshaft and you will see that the inside of the electric PTO is threaded. A bolt run into those threads will push the PTO off the crank shaft. Some have 5/8 by 11 thread, some have 3/4 by 10 and some have 7/8 by 9 threads. Go to your favorite big box store and buy rent one of each and then return them when you are done. Don't tell them I sent you.

Now that would speed up the job, wouldn't it?

Of course, be sure the tractor cannot start while you are doing this! Disconnecting the spark plug is a good idea!

@oliver2-44 has you covered on most of the questions, I would add that a drive belt that LOOKS good can need replacement. Connect a chain low on the rear of the tractor, chain the tractor to a tree, slowly pull forward in third gear high range until the slack comes out of the chain then stop, With the throttle at less than half let the clutch out slowly, if the engine stalls or the wheels spin you have a good belt, if the belt slips you need a new one.

Hello all. I received the Max Power Kevlar reinforced belt from TSC today. I’m happy to report it fits perfectly, and stays on as it should! Thank you to everyone who offed suggestions! BBQVW… I was right where you are not long ago. Cleaning all connections, and filing points! Mine had been sitting for quite a while!

The tank didn't come with any fittings, so I'll need to sort through this. The original valve was on one of the vertical frame pieces, I took a picture as a breadcrumb:

The problem with hand sharpening is repeatable results, or the lack of them. There are too many variables to get everything right by feel according to those in the know. You can probably get a drill good enough, or at least better than it was when you started. But to do that every time is a bit of a stretch. You would probably not do anything in the shop except sharpen drill bits lol. The unit I bought is quite well built, I can't see a lot of difference between it and a thousand quids worth. As I won't be using mine day in day out I figure it was worth the saving on an industrial grade one. The huge box of dull drill bits sat under my bench prompted me to invest in a machine. I'm sure it will be worth it in the long run, now that new bits are so expensive too.

my machine shop teacher made me learn to sharpen drills by hand as well as grind my own tools for the lathe. That was almost 50 years ago, and I have forgotten how. I bought a drill doctor. It’s fine for a hobbyist, but nowhere near production ready.

@oliver2-44 got you covered pretty well. All I would add is your #3 question: Tractor supply and even Harbor freight carry “machine spacers” in 3/4 ID. Depending on the amount of play you have in your wheels, these are a good thing to have for taking up slop in the wheels. Unlike 3/4 washers, these are typically thinner and have a smaller outside diameter.

Do you know that song from Britney Spears which was quite the hit..? What's it called again.. "Oops I did something or other" I think it was Anywayyy.. I present to you not one, but TWO new old projects I could'nt help myself when I came across these two puppies for $375,- Went down to take a look and made a deal at $350,- Put the 'ol Volvo to work with a (rented) trailer and picked them up one at a time. They were about a 35 minute drive (one way) away so no biggie. The man I bought them from loaded them with a FEL on his New Holland tractor which worked like a charm. Unloading them was a bit of an adventure but with the help of my SO went pretty smooth. As you can probably tell they need some TLC although one tipper trailer is in better shape than the other. Both are identical so I'm probably going to pick and choose the best parts to make one good base and restore that one and sell the other as is. Or I might restore both and sell one fully restored.. or keep 'em both maybe? Decisions, decisions.. Oh right, almost forgot.. the idea is to use these to haul manure with these instead of the hitch mounted "dirt bucket" I'm currently using. Since we now keep four and a half horses at the stable the pile of crêpe is rapidly filling up the dirt bucket. It has to be emptied about every two to three days. Which is fine in summertime but now with winter approaching it's no fun doing it in the wet, cold and dark. Hopefully the tipping trailer can get us through the week so it can be emptied during daylight on the weekends. The dirt bucket is about 1.8m/6ft wide and 0.8m/2.5ft deep and high. The tipper trailers beds are 2m/6.5ft wide, 3m/10ft long and 0.6m/2ft high so a lot more volume. Should be good for about 4 metric tonne of manure.

I've bought / sold 6 tractors on Redsquare. No issues. All involved pretty elaborate payment, storage and transportation scenarios from members all over the country... @WHX?? comments above hit the spot...

BINGO Actually it starts on the battery plugs then switches to the magneto plugs.

@kpinnc Let me know if it works on Legos , my granddaughters rooms look like they have had an explosion of Barbies, Legos and every other toy the Toys r Us ever sold. You can 't see the floor. Not sure how my son would get the Bag a nut upstairs but I am sure he would love to have one.

Two more carbs headed to their owners tomorrow. This one's off a Kohler 8 HP. Also got into the fuel pump for it. Disassemble. Clean out. Reassembly with new diaphragm.

Ready for plow duty is this 523DXI.

Working on leaf pickup today!

Well, I put myself at about 99% done with the dismantling. The remaining 1%? The *bleeping* roll pin on the lift lever! I drowned it with two other penetrating oils yesterday and let it sit overnight, torched it, but no movement with the pin punch. I had the idea of using a tie rod puller and a small cap screw to push it out, but the arms of the puller started to bend under high pressure so I gave up on this. I'm not sure if I'll get a cheap air hammer from Harbor Freight and try this route, throw in the towel and see if there's a local shop that might be able to remove the demon or just let it be and do my best to paint with it in place - a decision for tomorrow. My wife and I just moved into a small cabin the mountains of North Carolina and I don't currently have a garage, barn or shed... current state in my "fancy" Coleman Canopy workshop.

That is very kind of you to say, thank you @Pullstart! I had another short window to work on said old tractor after work today. The first dusting of new paint on a couple frame pieces is on! I've got limited space, so I did a little work on the wheels after. I got some mesh and first coat of reinforced body filler applied: It started to get cold, so the last item for the day was trying to get my head wrapped around the wiring harness. The donor machine I believe is a 1990-91 Coast to Coast... lots left to figure out here! Jonathan

The thread has gotten really bloated, so going to leave it up and start a fresh one. Thanks all!

Nice Ed ... Can't eat them horns and havta boil that tag an awful long time ... You gonna work your magic on a mount?

I would suggest using a circuit that stays hot with the switch in the 'start' position. The accessory terminal drops out in 'start' so it would momentarily stop pumping as you're cranking the engine. But obviously it gets enough fuel to the carb to get past that and start pumping again when the switch is returned to the 'run' position.

I like rebuilding the metal ones when possible. I do have a C160-8 Tecumseh Horse that has a Facet electric pump. Limited hours so far but runs good. I'd do that again. Electric Pump options: Facet 60245 or 60304. Mr. Gasket 42s electric pump. Carter P4070.

Although I have a drill bit sharpener that I inherited, I have always and still do sharpen them by hand on a grinder. I can do it quicker and more reliably accurate than using a machine. It’s a matter of habit and practice. Also when drilling , wood, steel , brass, bronze or aluminum, ideal bit edge angle is a little different from each other. One can do that quickly by hand. Just need to know what to look for and have a steady hand. I know that some of you will not agree with me but I use the side of grinding wheel to sharpen them. It’s easier and more accurate than using the edge and in 40 plus years of doing it I never had a problem with it. Before all of these gadgets became available, everyone I know did it by hand. Their availability took away one’s ability or desire to learn how to do it by hand .

Several of the nearby communities in my area got ravaged by the hurricane so I've been spending most of my free time volunteering the past little bit, I was finally able to get back to wrenching on the A-100 today... or perhaps I should say dismantling it. I've been taking lots of pictures, tagging pieces and storing bolts and various pieces in marked Zip Lock bags - just my way of doing projects, especially in cases where I'm in uncharted waters like this one. I'm about 75% done, next step will be to start cleaning things up and getting into painting which I'm excited for! Jonathan

I've got a line on two other possible donor machines, one has a 12.5HP Briggs and Stratton, the other has 15HP Kohler. Both are $80, hopefully I'll end up with one of them and not BOTH of them, but we'll see. I fussed with the Craftsman T100 for a bit and got it running, so what I don't keep I figure I can sell. In the meantime, I spent some time researching and ordering the parts I'll need for the A-100. Tires, tie rods, brake pads, tail light lens, headlight lens, shift knob and decal set... underwater on the investment vs. value I'm sure, but I'm determined to save this poor little guy. I also spend some time cleaning up parts. I need to finish off the nooks and crannies, but the transmission is getting there as are the rims... a few pictures below. I was going back and forth on whether I want to do a complete re-paint or clean up and capture the current patina. The hood has a big chunk cut out on one side for some unknown reason, so I'm thinking I'll have to go the complete re-paint round... which means more tear down... feeling a little like Alice in the rabbit hole! LOL! Jonathan

It didn’t make sense to some people when I got my 1994 520H, and my 1984 Work Horse GT-1600, but I had an interest in the 520H, even though I didn’t need it. I had never had a real small garden tractor. Now I’m infected. While I will admit that your project is in a good bit worse condition than what I started with, I kind of do see your point in “giving it a shot.” It just seems easier and more sensible to spend money on an older piece of equipment or tool that is quality made than to spend the same money on something that is not made nearly as well and will most likely not outlast what is already 40 years old. So… I had fun with my 2 so far (kinda working on a 3rd), and glad I did it.

I dunno Richard ... no fungus or moss... no trees growing in it... no ants... pan has a nice patina tho... Shaggy Personally I think yer off your rocker. Much better horses out there to resto or even get into shape to work. But as long as it keeps you out of the tavern go for it ...

Remember this??!!?? Trina's first restoration! Pony. We washed her up for @JCM Jim's Meet n Greet coming up this weekend.