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Got the herd out for the last time before most of them go to bed for the winter. Just a 520 and 48" deck is still in service to mulch leaves and the 520HC and blade is getting ready to plow snow. I did some work to a 416-8 for a fellow redsquare member so I put it in the lineup as well. Next year the Work Horse will be in the lineup as well I hope.

One of the RJ tractors I bought several years ago had a great deal of original literature and paperwork 📋 about the sale etc. what I have poster here is the cover for my original Master Catalina (probably 1958). A September 1, 1957 price list and an August 1, 1958 price for RJ tractor and all the dealers attachments, and tractor add ins! I think this is already on the Red Square site in publications etc but I thought I would post again for all you RJ Wheel Horse owners!

Yesterday I finally got around to putting on my rebuilt RJ transmission (thanks Keith Jones and Larry Eads). Put the rear wheels on this am. ( old Montgomery Wards ag tires with a different style tread) . Began to work on motor tins, cull together missing parts ( clutch rod, lift cable, transmission boot, read hitch, etc. amazed at the parts I have!) Here are some pictures of the first two days. Yes that hood had some purple paint on it! Sanding with three types of paper! Going to finish up with Rustoleum Matte Clear as the final cover coat.

did the master hydraulic lift valve job on a c175H last year -- absolute nightmare getting that in and out of that location in hoodstand -- replaced the "O" rings and the 4 hoses -- i still have the wounds on my hands from trying to manipulate the unit into that space and remove and then install the bolts -- Unfortunately i have another c175 h that is leaking fluid from the master valve and have to do that job --UGH !!!

Mike the wiring is a simple on these old Start/Gen`s. Just take your time with it. Look in the manual section for this tractor it has a diagram. May just clean it all up and put the right decal on the hood. And it will be a great worker. I had this one this year went tru it front to back. Down the road it went.

The button is an electrical safety feature. If the operator takes their weight off the seat while the PTO is engaged, the engine shuts off. Thwarting the switch puts a distracted operator at risk of putting their foot under a running mower. I recommend finding a way to put it back to its proper function! Using the model numbers, search this forum (search box in upper right) for manuals and other info on your acquisition. Enjoy and good luck!

Hi boys, the tractor is home and it's awesome!!! I've got photos too. Unfortunately my time will be limited the next week or two but I'm going to try to slowly chip away at asking questions and cleaning this thing up, and learning about it... so stoked! It is in fact a 312-8, as someone earlier mentioned that their 312-8 also lacked tail lights and an hour meter. Unfortunately the VIN sticker is very worn down. I can barely make it out. To my eyes, there are 2 numbers and not sure what each means: 2112K801 and 10638. Any idea on year? The engine stickers are much more legible! I'm assuming, based on my readings, that this is a pre-1986 model as I have the Kohler K301AS engine. Spec No on it is 47812 and Serial is 14161038. Maybe the engine numbers will help us better figure out some details. Luckily, looks like the previous owner (who passed away) took care of this thing. Fluids are all topped off and replacement parts look fresh and not original. I can get part numbers off the Spark Plug and Air Filter! Fuel filter is easily accessible too and looks fresh and like a newer, non-80's part. Ironically enough, the thing that is baffling me now is the seat! It looks to be original, as there is a Wheel Horse logo on it, but it's bolted to some old chunks of wood that are then bolted to the frame? Any ideas here? Also noticed the gas cap does not have a fuel gauge/float on it. That normal for the 312-8? Is it worth looking into a cap that has a gauge? Photos attached! Thanks boys! I'm so stoked

I think most any year and model that didn’t use a shaker plate OR had an engine plate like the 520 should have the bolt-on bracket- of course provided it used the hoop-style PTO. Every 1973 and up had them as well as every 300-400 series that I’ve owned. Should be very easy to find and inexpensive.

FINALLY!! After months of soaking, tapping with a hammer, and trying to twist.I got the valve to move. I even tried prying it straight up. I opened up the groove on a pry bar and using a steel rod ,put upward pressure on it while tapping with a hammer. It budged a little after that. It then loosened up and would twist 360*. reinstalled the washer and nut , and installed a new roll pin Now I will have to twist it occasionally to keep it limber.

You've completed all the tests I would have. I went nuts trying to figure out why a C175 would operate very similar to what you described. In my case, it was the fuel cap. The tank couldn't vent and neither the electric pump or vacuum pulse pump could draw fuel after twenty minutes of running. Whatever it is, I hope you can diagnose it sooner than later.

Big shout out to Tony Toro Jr. for inviting me into the Wheel Horse world. He sold me a 1989 312-8 with a 37" deck and the bagger system. I don't have the time right now to go as deeply into it as I'd like. But, it has been an amazing learning experience and has provided the opportunity to have a wrench in my hands once more. First thing I did was install a new solenoid as it was not working when I got it. Installed the new one while it was on the trailer and then realized I had never driven a tractor nor did I really know how to back it off the trailer. Trial by fire. I'm still alive and no broken limbs, so all is good. I've used it mostly to cut the lawn (37" deck) and haul firewood closer to the house. Removed the mower deck while moving the wood and noticed some rust and a hole in the front. So, I decided to take it all apart, cut out the hole and weld a piece of 1/8" steel in place. I took the whole thing down to bare metal, used Rust Restore and black Farm Equipment gloss black on the inside and IH Red on the outside which I applied with a brush. I also used Blaster Surface Shield on the inside of the deck. Supposed to protect it for 2 years, so we'll see. Sanded and touched up the edges of the fenders, under the seat, the floorboards, etc. with the Red. Added skateboard sticky stuff to the floorboards. New drive and mower deck belts. New brake shoe installed. Replaced the headlights with LEDs. Everything is greased and it runs like a charm. Here are some pics.

to the Tee man. Is this a new problem, or did you just get the tractor? Does your 417A have a transmission engagement lever? Could be several issues. broken drive belt broken belt tension spring missing key in transmission input pulley loose hub on an axle. disconnected linkage on motion control Look inside the right rear wheel to see if the transmission pulley is turning and report back.

I think it's a 1985 312-8 they came that way. also has a 3 amp. alternator and AC head lights I have one just like it. I did change out the wheels and tires on mine.

Hey better yet trade a tire for it... Ahem... Hey even better yet you get it to Portage I'll put you up in Pullstart's camper ...

I'd take it for what you got into it Mike ... in other words you got free weights. You know a 1067/1267is my cupotea... That steering wheel is my fav and hard to believe it's original and in that nice of shape. Bet it is tho. Yup obviously someone is electrically challenged ...

1067 that was cheap and 15 minutes from home last night after work. Gonna use the weights and maybe part the rest out or pass it on to someone who wants to do something with it.. Electrically it's a mess. Thoughts anyone?

Okay Joe Diffie

Today to enjoy this beautiful weather we have been having, my wife and I oh and Lucy took a ride on the beach. We met up with our daughter, son in law and granddaughter. The past few days have been absolutely perfect weather wise.

Thanks all I was going to attempt to make one but I have enough to do as is . Found one on the Fleabay for 12.00 including ship…pretty reasonable I’d say. Thanks for all the helpful comments.

The 308 runs the lights on AC straight from the stator I believe. So RPM would make a difference and only produces power when running. The 312 is going to run that AC to a rectifier/regulator so the power is 12v DC and consistent and connects to the battery The charging stators under the flywheel are different set ups

I agree.

I did what @lynnmor said and my motion control lever on my 1994 520-H stays where I put it while cruising for chicks. 🎶 There’s something women love about a Wheel Horse man 🎶

@Sodaking27 noting the belt drive idler pulley , original ? come with a very small bearing that , is known for failure / noise / rough , while you are there , might be worth an inspection and a re fit . since going after anything with a bearing , don't even think about not replacing or RE GEASING IT , is that a wanna be HEIM JOINT on that linkage ? use them regularly , anywhere , pete

actually i was never able to determine what or where was the leak??????? Was it "O" ring leaking at the piston valve -- or a connection of a hose?? so i just went the $130 to get 4 hoses and also do the O ring replacement -- thinking might as well make it right and not have to do job a second time.

Here's a couple shots of my 1975 C160 Automatic

I hear you. The long oval seal was a pain to keep in place when putting back together. Hopefully no leaks when I get it all back together.

Finally after being sidelined for almost 2 months with ankle and Achilles tendinitis was able to spend a little time working on the C175. Removed all the hoses and lift valve. Rebuilt the lift valve. Discovered the rear finder mounting bracket where it normally breaks was in need of welding. Have a friend who has a welding service and he’s going to stop by one evening to take care of it.

I was hoping I'd hear that. I'm going to gap it properly, put the muffler back on and close things up. Then it's back to the barn for the winter. The only way to really test it is mowing and that's not happening anymore this year. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Not a bad idea.... Retired Electrician here. I did Primarily Inndustrial Process control work as well as Some commercial & the dreaded residential wiring (dreaded as it is really pretty boring repetitive work mostly lights, light switches & plugs....) I don't have too much trouble with electrical systems & I Certainly do Not know Everything either as there is Always something else to learn... I haven't decided what all accessories or improvements will be added but I like the LEDs because they draw very little current & at 12V DC it can get to be an issue really fast with resistive loads like lights but the LED improvements in recent years have nearly eliminated that problem. By the way I would use NoAlox anti corrosion compound such as Ideal 30-030 or equivalent Rather than dielectric grease Thanks for the suggestion.

I pulled the shroud off. Looking at the bolt heads I don't think it's even been off. No mouse (or bat) nests and nothing jumps out at me as a possible cause. I'll go through the tests as outlined in the service manual this afternoon. I'm still thinking this could be a heat related issue with the coil and the cold tests won't show it. I'm open to any suggestions.

Beautiful lineup!!

That is the exact info I needed, thank you Lee! The Agri Supply shipping was over half the cost of the entire seat. Luckily it looks like Northern Tool sells the exact same seat: it's a bit more, but shipping is only 9.99 and will get here faster so I'm going with that one. https://www.northerntool.com/products/black-talon-high-back-lawn-mower-seat-black-model-115000bk-17462

@BBQVultureWings Amazon, I did a search for PAR 36 landscaping lights. I tried to get the cheapest ones with the best reviews I could. The ones I got were a two pack and a little over $22 with tax and prime shipping.

Will get some tomorrow

Gotta love the enthusiasm of a green horn eh fellas ... don't worry we'll coach ya

If I have it until July I'll drag it along to portage for ya!

Today on Wheelhorse corner… the painting is done for now. There’s new LED headlights on the 308 and I painted the guards for the 42”RD deck on the 312. The paint on the guards was peeling off. It’s not pretty, but I plan on going through the deck and fixing issues this winter.

Or you could use a 103-990 switch and a solenoid.

Looks like someone had charging issues amd said screw it. Fried voltage regulator, new starter genny, after market volt meter. Sketchy wiring. Might not take much beyond an expensive key switch, a regulator and new wiring. Has a very leaky axle seal too.

I replaced the gas cap on my 312-8 with one I found at the partconnection.com website. If the one @ebinmaine refences works it may be a cheaper option. Gas cap - Wheel Horse Tractors - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum https://the-partconnection.com/product/7-inch-gas-cap-for-wheelhorse-simplicity/

It is from some other brand of tractor but welded to the frame for a rear-mount WH tiller. Goal was, I suspect, to get a rear blade on a C or 3-, 4-, or 5-series tractor.

Absolutely.

The fuel cap was the first thing I swapped.

Thats what I'm talking about right there Wrencher! Patina & character to die for! I'm thinkin a later Charger 12 sacrificed it's motor, hood and floorboards for it Mike. The fun part would be to take the side cutters to all that BS wiring and do it right! If I'm not mistaken ther was a service bulletin obsoleting that steering wheel and replacing it with the one like on Wrencher's and used on subsequent Raiders and many others. WH61-90 _399c Replacement Steering Wheel.pdf

@Alrashid2 Nothing to add here too. Now that I’ve made my contribution. Welcome to the Forum!

That is what I was thinking also-about the vibrations over a long period. Also thought about on the right side-mounting down low on the belt shield-but same concern about vibrations. glenn

Can't be that bad. I don't see any wire nuts hanging out of it!

Blade looks to be too tall for a grader blade unless used on a tractor with much taller wheels. The rear frame looks like a tiller hitch has been added. The rusty blade at the top left looks more like a grader blade.

Bless your heart.

Alright I guess I will do the Deestone AG and tri rib run down. I have had these tires for 4-5 years now and they all still hold air haven't had any punctures or leaks. Rears are 23x10.5-12 4ply on 7" wide rims and yes they do run small.. quite small they really are only about 8 1/2" wide and 22 and maybe 1/4" high. I was aware they ran small which is why I went with the 10.5. It is a softer rubber and as you can see in the photos it's got some cuts in the rubber probably from dirt plowing. I had bought them on tires-easy.com and the current price is $77.03ea, however those are a load C 6ply. I am happy with them though they do provide the traction I need. Fronts are 4.00-8 4ply tri-ribs on 4" wide rims they are 16" tall and its 3 1/2" from outside rib to outside rib. They look great, provide the typical tri-rib traction when turning. I also bought them on tires-easy and they are currently $31.17ea on there.