Leaderboard

I'm not one to give my tractors a name but this one just seems appropriate to call Dino. Some of you will recall the post on my road trip to Elgin a few weeks ago and came home with this. After a period of pondering what I wanted to do as well as fighting a 314H problem child I decided to tear it down for a mechanical restoration. I've got high hopes on this one. Most likely replacing that 314. I'm doing something different with the paint (no, it will be Regal red) so we'll have to see how it works but that's a ways down the road. I'll either elaborate on that or hide my head in shame. All indicates are that this is a solid machine. I guess just for some quick gratification I decided to get the engine spiffed up. Really just a good cleaning, rebuild the carb and a bit of paint. And of course, Terry's decals. The frame is dirty but solid. No repairs needed. The transmission seals were shot. The hitch pin came out by hand and I had hopes that the hubs wouldn't fight me too much considering the leaks. No such luck. I pushed the limits of a 3-jaw pulled. Something I should have done decades ago is make a good puller. I'm finally doing just that. I have maybe a half hour to finish it when I get a chance. I think this will straighten out without much trouble. No metal is cracked. That's it for now. This is going to be an all winter project. The inferno wobble mounts will be replaced with solid and a complete rewire will be done. Now if I can just get the paint right.................

Got the fellas out for a breath of fresh air today. Been a couple weeks for some of them, and it’s always better to run them than not. The 523-H is in desperate need of a bath!

I have voted early and have selected my 2025 Medicare supplemental and pharmacy coverages. Now I need to have someone invent a chip that can be used to block all of these political ads and Medicare ad on TV. Looking forward to seeing heemraad cream and ambulance chaser attorney ads again.

Finally have a place to hang this now….thanks Ed! @Ed Kennell

Happy birthday!!!!! @TonyToro

Don't need a chip... turn off the tv.

Worked on the 308 for a bit today. I peeled off the old hood stickers and got it ready for paint. I’m also waiting on some Amazon landscaping headlights.

This was a problem with my 310-8. I replaced the fuse holder with a new waterproof in line fuse holder.

After it dried

B-100 looks like a K-Series with a coil, not a Magnum @Moonshine*Connoisseur

I have liquid filled tires on 3 wheel horses and on my big tractor and there are no negatives that I can see. Better traction, more stable.

Before and after. more pics below.

Swapped out the solenoid on the C-160 and put away the hammer.

Would you prefer that chip be embedded in your brain, or somewhere else?

Got the snowblower mounted and working now. Welded the tab on the flag for the eyebolt. Just need to get a spring for it now.

That is a ground wire you are holding. Perhaps it was under the head of one of the solenoid mounting bolts.

There’s pictures it runs on choke still and leaks a bit of engine oil, like other people say it’s never “done”

@ebinmaine Has upgraded front spindles.

I’m currently restoring my wheelhorse 314A I’m looking to find rear tires 22-7.50-12 can’t seem to find new ones, can anyone guide me to other compatible sizes?

Seems like I'm always taking this thing apart as I learn more about how it's been put together vs how it should be put together. While I don't have plans to do a restoration, I figured I could freshen up the paint along the way. It appears to have been painted with a brush at one point (and actually not all that bad). After reading several threads, it seems color choice is somewhat discretionary, depending on the owner. With that said, I found what looks like a good candidate for my needs. I've used Rust-Oleum's "Custom Spray" on some other projects and really like the adjustable spray patterns it offers. The fan pattern lets you lay down nice even coats. When I saw this color at the farm supply store, I thought it was worth checking out. Turns out it is almost a dead-on match to the red of the hood decals. Of course, when I put on new decals, they'll probably be a completely different shade. I've done body and paint work since I was 14 (49 years ) so yeah, I could go full resto on it but that's not what I'm after. "Satin Heritage Red". Not glossy, not flat. I did a quick sanding on the belt guard, a little primer, and laid on a few coats. I think this will do nicely!

Happy Happy Tony

Happy Birthday @TonyToro!!!

The tins and starter rope cone, along with the angled cylinder, reminds me of the engines on some Reo lawnmowers. I grabbed a couple of images from https://reolawnmower.com/pictures.html. A Reo afficianado. v.

Nice. Nothing wrong with an old tractor that looks like an old tractor IMO Find a K91 for it while you're going through all the mechanical stuff and trans.

Sediment bowls are French for "Gas Leak" I have had good luck with this style valve.

I do not know but here is a list of 42" SD decks Mower DNA 42" side discharge 1966-1967 model RL-426 replaced by 1968 model 5-1421 1969 model 5-1422 1970 model 5-1423 1971 model 5-1000 1971-1972 model 5-1001 1973-1974 model 5-1010 1975 model 5-1011 1975 model 5-1012 1976 model 65-42MS01 - Online Toro parts illustration is the 48" SD deck 1976 model 65-42MS02 - Online Toro parts illustration is the 48" SD deck 1977 model 75-42MS01 - These 42" side discharge decks all use blades with 5/8" x 3/4" double-D center hole unless the spindles have been upgraded (Do not have operator manual) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These decks all use blades with a 3/4" center hole. 1977 model 75-42MS02 replaced by (Do not have operator manual) 1978 model 85-42MS01 (Do not have operator manual) 1979 model 95-42MS00 (Do not have operator manual) 1979 model 95-42MS01 (Do not have operator manual) 1980 model 05-42MS01 (Have operator manual) 1981-1983 model 05-42MS02 1984 model 05-42MS03 - Last year for bearings with 3/4" ID 1985 model 05-42MS04 - First year for bearings with 17mm ID unless older spindles were updated. 1986-1988 model 05-42MS05 1989 model 15-42SC01 1990 model 15-42SC02 1990-1992 model 15-42SC03 1993-2007 and 2009-2012 model 78345 - These decks all use blades with a 3/4" center hole. Note - 17mm is .669"

The belt guard MUST be in place to catch the slack from the belt when the clutch is depressed.

Happy birthday!!

@TonyToro happy birthday ! pete

Happy birthday 🎂🎈🎁

The video on page two of this post may help.

23x8.50-12’s will work just fine. With the correct rim you could go as wide as a 23x10.50-12.

Welcome to Red Square 79351 fits the 300, 400 and 500 series of tractors. Here is what the D-Series used

The frame on the "D" is wider than the models this blade was built for. If you have a rear axle snow plow bracket on your "D" it may fit OK. Thake a look at these downloads. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q= 79351 &quick=1&type=downloads_file&nodes=19

Well, if you are going to wait that long, you might as well wait until next June and find a good one at the "BIG" show. Wheel Horse Collector's Club Show in Penn. BTW, the detent spring measures 3/16" OD x 1 3/16" Long. It is a little heavier gage the a ball point pen spring.

Kohler specifies a grease to use on the Bendix shaft.

A-Z hub is 2 piece. Center of the new inner hub is tapered and has a slot lengthwise. You slide the outer hub piece onto the axle then slide the inner piece with the key slot into position. Slide the outer piece onto the inner piece. Line up the non threaded holes of the outer piece with the the threaded holes of the inner piece. Install bolts and torque to spec evenly. This draws both pieces together and they wedge themselves tight and the slotted inner piece "clamps down" on the axle. To remove: Remove bolts and install them into the threaded holes of the outer piece and as you tighten them they will push the outer piece in and off the inner piece. Use a screwdriver in the slot of the inner piece to open the bore to remove.

Be careful - ATV tires may BE listed as that size, but most likely be different in OD and width from your present tires.

23 X 8.50 - 12 is a much more commonly available size. https://www.google.com/search?q=23+X+8.50+-+12+tires&rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS981US981&oq=23+X+8.50+-+12+tires&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCTIyMTMzajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Nothing wrong putting a K90 or K91 on a 551 instead of a temper mental Tecky! You have to move the Rt. side frame member forward about an inch to clear the gov. shaft. Other than that no mods needed.

Changed gear oil in both my 315 and 416 8's last week - today the 315 got new front wheel bearings all around - checked they were starting to get sloppy . For the trans changes put Lucas oil in both - this weekend gonna jack up the 416 check those bearings - many years ago plowing with the C 101 front wheel came off - bearing went out made a total mess of the spindle - made the best of it with new bearings until the big show picked up a new used one - now I check bearings periodically - if I find slop in 1 or 2 change all 4 . Not going through the spindle mess again - have a blade on the 315 all year and a tall chute on the 416 4 months a year so both are carrying weight in the front . Can anyone point out a thread for upgrading the front wheels/axles for weight ? I'm curious about the process

@Jrodgers04 Xi series is what I’m talking about! They are amazing! Keep any eye on that front axle pivot. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/92609-xi-series-front-axle-pivot-repair/

DRY lube, like powdered graphite. MUST go onto a clean oil & grease free shaft - if it is oily, it makes a caked mud mess...

We have only a small percentage of ash on our acreage. Roughly 70% beech. A mix of maple oak and some evergreens after that. Ash trees here won't be around long either unfortunately. Elm and chestnut has been gone for decades...

No ash trees left around here either. Most of the elms are dead as well (the next generation after the original dutch elm disease wiped most of them out years ago). It is sad to drive around and see all the dead trees everywhere. Fortunately most of the trees on my property are maples and are healthy.

Ash bore disease is killing all the ash trees in northeast Ohio.

Day 15: (Well really Friday Saturday Monday and today (Tuesday) Got the fenders for one last time primed (Friday) and now Tuesday we gave it a quick light sanding and painted them red! Fenders are now complete just have to put stickers on it and the rear lights. Got the front rims sanded and cleaned on Friday and first coat of paint on. Today (Tuesday) got the front rims painted antique white let them sit for probaly 3 minutes went back to look at they were all cracked! My dad said the spots we didn’t get rid of all the power coating the paint got underneath it and lifted it all up. So going to let the rims sit out in the sun for a few days then sand where they cracked and hopefully paint them once again for all. Also since it’s now started to get cold and getting dark really early moved some stuff around in the garage and bought Mr.Kellys tractor inside of the garage. IMG_9430.mov IMG_9429.mov

Not sure what you are trying to do. If leveling a lawn it's best to till it first, your not doing to move much hard dirt. Wheel Horse tiller or walk behind. As has been all ready said crushed stone can get hard. I have crusher run stone on my drive it get as hard as pavement. Here is what I used on my drive. I also made a longer clevis hitch and it work much better than the WH clevis hitch with this implement. I built this one, it's a Pulverizer larger ones are used to plant grass with three point tractors. The wench is used not because I couldn't lift it, but it's heavy enough that made it almost imposable to press down the release. The release on manual lift 300, 400, and 500 doesn't go straight down it has a small radius. This post doesn't say anything about "Down Pressure". Just showing something that works.