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I use the Blaster brand Silicone Lubricant. Apply the night before the storm and let it sit overnight and it never clogs no matter what kind of snow.

I haven't started hunting yet this year, but this is my son's first year really giving it a go. So far he has had a series of disappointing deer hunts, so tonight I told him I was taking the one dog to walk the game lands and he was coming with me, the only choice he had was bringing his shot gun or not. They've been stocking pheasants for the junior hunt, and there are a few other things in early for just the 16 and under crowd. I figured worst case he got a bit of exercise. Anyway, we stumbled upon a critter. The boy got his first kill tonight. He hit that rabbit with his .410 at a range I'd have been skeptical of with my 12ga.

I’m currently restoring my wheelhorse 314A I’m looking to find rear tires 22-7.50-12 can’t seem to find new ones, can anyone guide me to other compatible sizes?

Motion Industries has the bearing, Like was said above, it is closed (capped) on one end. For now a finger of bondo would stop the leak or maybe even silacone might work. There is no real presure behind there. If the bearing sounds good you may be alright. https://www.motion.com/products/sku/00090868;origin=sayt

It’s a closed cup needle bearing - from what I see it shows rust - the cup probably rusted through - you have a pin hole on the facing of the bearing cup .

Well, if you are going to wait that long, you might as well wait until next June and find a good one at the "BIG" show. Wheel Horse Collector's Club Show in Penn. BTW, the detent spring measures 3/16" OD x 1 3/16" Long. It is a little heavier gage the a ball point pen spring.

Update; Tried to fire it yesterday and nothing. Gave up pissed off. Then I remembered I hard installed the primer bulb. Went back outside, couple a squeezes, and she fired beautifully. Again THANKS ALL.

Thanks Ed that makes it very clear. Easy enough to add to the flag before painting.

A-Z hub is 2 piece. Center of the new inner hub is tapered and has a slot lengthwise. You slide the outer hub piece onto the axle then slide the inner piece with the key slot into position. Slide the outer piece onto the inner piece. Line up the non threaded holes of the outer piece with the the threaded holes of the inner piece. Install bolts and torque to spec evenly. This draws both pieces together and they wedge themselves tight and the slotted inner piece "clamps down" on the axle. To remove: Remove bolts and install them into the threaded holes of the outer piece and as you tighten them they will push the outer piece in and off the inner piece. Use a screwdriver in the slot of the inner piece to open the bore to remove.

Say ya pwayers wabbit... Nicely done!

Check the width of your rims - a 22-8.50-12 should mount up fine. Check the recommended rim size with the Mfg'r first...

The use of the assist spring is truly a "balancing act ".' Too much tension and the snowblower is too light to stay down onto the ground to work effectively. Not enough makes lifting a chore. Good old cheap store-brand vegetable oil cooking spray is what I use to coat the inside of the tub, auger, and chute. Works well.

I added them to mine as well. Depending on the terrain you use your tractor on, as well as the amount of seat time you will have, a set of springs most definitely reduce what pop called “planter fatassyitis”, which I acquired from using no springs…

Usually cross pollination effects the seeds from the fruit, there in effecting the plants that these seed will grow. The fruit its self should not be effected. I grow my Jalapenos, bells, poblano, cayenne & habanero all in close proximity with no taste or heat change in their fruit. Your peppers may have suffered from some type of climate or nutrient issue. Over loading of peppers on the plant may have also been an issue although I have not had that be an issue in the past.

Slowly moving along. Got my frame in primer. Hopefully will get color on it and a few other parts during the warm temps over this weekend. Fingers crossed !! man is it a lot of effort to get these parts ground down and cleaned up. Credit to all of you who have done this multiple times.

a short summary, its a 62 R32 lawn ranger. I have posted a lot about it and figured out the throttle. when I was working on this previously I stripped the gas thank threads then was bummed and put it in the shead, I got back around to it and but a bushing in. there is a such thing as pipe taps, and it did not leak, it decided its own fate, and it wanted to live, it runs on choke. runs decent and drives fine, belt slipped a bit at first, verry happy the long version: I have had my 1962 wheel horse R32 lawn ranger for a while and have posted quite a bit on the forum about it, I did figure out the throttle I think. but yesterday I was thinking about it because a friend came over and I drive his and that motivated me to get mine done. I took it all apart and cleaned and cleared coated everthing, and I got it back together and went to put the float bowl on and stripped the threads on the tank because it's aluminum, aluminum threads vs steal pipe, the pipe won so I drilled it out to 7/16 and we got pipe threads tap and got a 1/4 of to 1/8 I'd bushing and I put that in with the pipe tape, not a single leak, i went to start it, so at this point the tractor was deciding its fate, and it decided to live, it started, did it dies If I didn't have the choke on. needs adjusted, it ran decent on about 1/4 choke I drove it, my belt tensioner did not seem to work the best sometimes it would not start turning on the crank but it worked, and my tranny if fine so I'm very happy with it as of now, it has a small oil leak out the belt pulley side, I took the engine side cover off when I had it apart and looked in there so I make shure it was tight and I'll see if its leaking in the morning. that's a lot of righting so I'll shoren it up, I'll add a few pics in the morning

Yep. lotta work. they do taste good though. Marv

I grounded the solenoid to the body and was hoping that's all it was. The solenoid DID start clicking again, but the starter is still not engaging or spinning. Then, I tried to jumpstart it because the battery had been sitting and only measured at 12.2V. Unfortunately, that just made the starter smoke. I found a diagram here, but the wiring looks correct to me. Thanks for the help and responses

Kohler specifies a grease to use on the Bendix shaft.

I can share pics and info Sunday afternoon sometime. Absolutely agreed.

Wow! You guys are awesome. Hopefully it is the solenoid it was $10. My uncle said it was he’s pretty sharp. My concern is I downloaded the original Manuel and there’s very few wires. Unfortunately my switch has like 6 wires coming from it and I have one its marked yellow that’s hot . I taped it off. Apparently it fell off when I took off the gas tank. Ill send pics and may need more help if this baby doesn’t start.

You might also be able to make that into a cup holder. Find a plastic car cup holder to fit.

Make sure you follow the manual about taping the end on the starter motor as you remove it. Mounting bolts double duty holding the end caps on the starter

Be careful - ATV tires may BE listed as that size, but most likely be different in OD and width from your present tires.

23 X 8.50 - 12 is a much more commonly available size. https://www.google.com/search?q=23+X+8.50+-+12+tires&rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS981US981&oq=23+X+8.50+-+12+tires&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCTIyMTMzajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Nothing wrong putting a K90 or K91 on a 551 instead of a temper mental Tecky! You have to move the Rt. side frame member forward about an inch to clear the gov. shaft. Other than that no mods needed.

Nope, just wise. I've cleaned the contacts in a couple like John described.

Will it run without the solenoid bolted in (grounded) I have a 417-8 the PO couldn't get running, blowing fuses and the problem was he changed the solenoid but didn't tighten it to the hood stand. It was loosely attached. Snugged it up and it runs great BTW, if the old solenoid "clicks" it's not likely the problem

@ebinmaine Has upgraded front spindles.

The illustration in the parts list should help

Alexa, thanks for the quick response. I’ve seen that picture before but I guess I’m a little dense but I can’t make out where and how the eyebolt is inserted. Is there something welded to the flag or top of the tube the bolt goes through?

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Hey Pete- just regular 50/50 Dawn dish soap and water does the same thing. I usually load up a 1 gal pump stain sprayer and go hunting around the house in spring. Amazing how fast it knocks them down. Just as quick as wasp spray without the oily residue.

I have liquid filled tires on 3 wheel horses and on my big tractor and there are no negatives that I can see. Better traction, more stable.

I have two Black Diamond drill grinders, a BW-70A and a BW-95C. Those two cover #70 (.028") to 3/4" (.750"). In addition I have a Drill Doctor that works just OK, I use it to grind down drills that are rather knackered saving the expensive Black Diamond wheels. For the average hobbyist the Drill Doctor will be fine. Hand grinding can be good enough, depending on the precision required, once one has plenty of practice. https://www.blackdiamondgrinder.com/95series.html

Yep ..can't dull it any worse... HF has got some too ... any good???

Having worked as a Machine Assembler for various Companies in my early career, I met a few guys that could Freehand sharpen twist drills on a good grinding wheel. It took four different guys to show me how - each had a slightly technique. The 4th guy was hands-down the best. We always had the need for short twist drills for either tapping or dowel pinning in tight places. Most folks do not even realize that the center "web" spiral of a twist drill is thicker at the end away from the tip. Cut a drill bit in half, and try to resharpen the bottom... The 118 degree shape can be done on a Drill Doctor, but the bit will not cut - it has no chisel point. The center web needs to be undercut relieved to do so. This 4th guy could do all this by hand! What I learned from all of them - Resharpen the bit as soon as either it gets dull or the outer edge chips. WAY much easier to salvage it...... Somewhat similar to watching a seasoned Carpenter resharpen either a plane blade or a chisel on a belt sander... @formariz???

Well not today but over the last week I replaced the pto assembly, put in a new starter and a new solenoid, not bad for someone who is not mechanically inclined. Starts right up and everything seems to work just fine for now. Jim

Don't be surprised when your bell peppers have some heat.

@Achto has had some peppergate in recent years, as he calls it. Plant what you want, eat what you get

Might be one of those "lurkers" I resemble that remark. Personally, I never sought any kind of web presence. I admit, that I used sites like this for information/guidance. At a point, I had to admit to myself that this tractor thing was more than a passing curiosity. Attending several WHCC shows convinced me to join both RS and WHCC. I'm now seven Wheelhorse tractors deep. Hello, my name is Mark, and I'm a horse-a-holic.

Seat bolts directly to the pan but you can jack it up a bit if you are long legged.

Distant relative... if he was family there'd be 6 round hoods up top with a skeleton driving each one...

Spiders definitely help with other bugs... They also provide free halloween decorations!!!

A. Sticky patches will catch spiders and a lot of other things. B. Use great caution eliminating arachnids lest ye be saddled with what they were eating.

https://www.norwalkfh.com/obituary/russell-wright Nice little blurb about this forum.

This 1067 was a farm tractor most of its life. It was real dirty when I picked it up.But know she is a great worker. Will be putting a plow on it soon. Hope you enjoy the picks.