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Yeah, none of the kits I found had these different size metric bearings. But what really shocked me was the price on the seals. It's just tough for us old dudes to keep up with this inflation. I am getting stronger though. I can now carry $100 worth of groceries in one hand.

We were treated to a little sky spectacle tonight. That's the camera enhancing it, but these are more accurate to what it looked like from our deck

Bob @rmaynard, you have way too much time on your hands if you are wonder about that.

I don't think the question should be "patina or refinish", but rather "rust or refinish". I say refinish.

Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA once told me that sometimes you can save several Horses by dismantling one...

Guess it pays to have a garage acct. I can buy those parts for $20 less. What also hurts is the fact that these hubs use 2 different size bearings so the trailer kits you can buy at TSC don't work. But those kits are $80 a pair so it would have been the same price anyway. Open a acct there Ed. " Ed Dog's Charters " or " E'd's Bucket Empourium "

How much more direct an answer do you want?

Whatever you have done to the tractor, it’ll take much less time with the hood alone. Do the same, you’ll be glad you did!

Another option would be either a Harbor Freight surface conditioning tool or if time isn't a concern a large electrolysis tank and cook the hood for about a week.

We’ve all done it at one time or another …

From my cousin’s house near the NC/ VA state line. Visible here but not nearly as bright. Back in May when they were visible before, they were this bright here. Had a lot of green visible then too.

That will work, however you will need the pulleys that clip into the mid-mount Tach-A-Matic, rear axle mount and lift cable. Good news is that those tines on that tiller are in great shape with plenty of life left in them.

Hello, I found the charts that show what rototiller fits which years, but the tiller I'm looking at doesn't have a model number on it. Is anyone able to tell by looking at it to see if this will work on a 1993 416-8 manual or a 1996 520 hydro? The guy only has the tiller so I'll end up having to piece the rest together.

I guess it was 3 years ago, i got a free 312; it had sat 16 years in a field, it was very rusty, engine was stuck, 8spd was full of water, tires were rotted off. I got it to run, but i spotted some stuff I knew would eventually do her in. The shift levers were eroded to about 3/16" thickness and there wasnt any reasonable way to repair them. Today the shifter shifted its last shift. I really thought the hammering M12 would have been what did it, but no, shes forever in Neutral. Ill save whats good, new tires, wheels, hood, gas tank, hubs, ill pull whats good off the M12. Yes I know "just swap a good 8spd into it". Its not worth it, the 48" blade will look real nice on the 416-H

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-2808-Machine-Bushing/dp/B00HYN42IC often refer to front wheel SHUCKING - SIDE PLAY , on a recent replacement , these 3/4 x 1-1/4 x 18 ga , really helped in the rolling fit ease , it also transfers the play factor to related steering linkage dry joints , like a red aerosol spray tube , for original joint type , help . any direct side to side , wheel play quickly eats up those bearings . as you refit , DETAIL / IMPROVE ORIGINAL INTENT , also went over every related contact point , typically get many years on my stuff , just regularly check it over for any related issues . my neighbors stuff is solid rot / rust , don't even bother referring to anything he has , stay greasy , pete

I spent a bunch of time early this morning looking for a fuel tank solution, right before giving up I bumped into a listing on eBay. It'll need a little TLC and cap, but it's 10" x 5" x 4" which is perfect! I love the color and patina too, an old tank for an old tractor... so much to do!

Kinda makes me think they got 100,000 tags for free or something. Wheel Horse was notorious for using whatever they had. Some sales guy probably got a promotion for saving “X” number of dollars on that, and a plaque for “out of the box” thinking.

Got a 200a from 9/60 on the cheap! Had to grab it! Came home and it fired right up! Gotta love these things! I bought it from the original buyers son. As we got it, pretty clean really. Just had some surface rust on the metal parts. So we removed the rust and put it back together. Finished result! It even came with a homemade case! Has two slots, one for lantern and other for storage items. Had 8 mantles and an aluminum funnel too. Deer camp is getting brighter every year!

We've used down pressure to clear snow for several years. It's great it's scraping ice or really hard snow after tires have crushed it down. With a manual lift tractor I'm not so sure you could push hard enough to do much damage. I'd be extremely cautious and very aware about using it on a hydro because it will lift the front end very easily.

Maybe it was made to be bolted on as an option

Gotcha. Meh. Add some 90 weight in the crankcase and spin’r up!

Shopping and packing for a few days in Portsmouth. It's one of our main naval cities and ports so I'm excited to see the museums and such that are there. HMS Victory is high on my list but the Mary Rose is our main attraction. Hoping to get plenty of photos but if anyone has any requests for images then just let me know. It's a 400 mile drive which for us is huge, I know that's practically in the neighbourhood for you guys in the US but for us it's a mighty long trip. Will be driving down on Sunday and staying till Thursday.

This is the tiller both your tractors used with the 416-8 the better choice in my opinion. Will give you an idea what else is required.

Snapped a few pics…phone camera brought out the color way more than the naked eye for some reason.

If you want to paint without sanding as much, a wire brush on a cordless drill is way easier than sandpaper. I’m sorta lazy, and it works well for me.

As good as the rest of the tractor looks it would look very odd with a patina hood. Sand it, paint it, you will love it.

@rmaynard Only once did I see the tag bolted on through the big hole and that is on my 36” tiller model 7-1251 It is bolted to the gear case from the factory.

Here's one I had everything painted but the hood. Just couldn't bring myself to destroy the hood patina, so I got a two tone.

Maybe it was an assembly line thing. Simple pin holding 200 tags? Grab it and rivet it on.

And by saving .01 oz. there’s better fuel economy.

Was able to see them all the way down in NW Oklahoma last night. You could faintly make them out with the naked eye, but my phone was able to get some pretty good pics

Going to pick up my first one tomorrow 400 bucks.

Paul answered your question. I have installed a 90-2046 Sundstrand from a 1972 Charger 12 in a 1974 C-160 that had a weak 90-1140 Sundstrand. It was a direct bolt in requiring no changes to the linkage or input pulley. As I stated above, I believe all the 90 series Sundstrands are interchangable. The tow valves are different and the input pully/shaft connections are different, but that does not effect the installation. What tractor are you planning to use this transmission ?

Mine are all removed as well. I don't care if the pulley spins with nothing attached and if there is a deck, snowblower etc attached it stops anyways. Nice thing is that if you get the PTO bell all painted up nice then the brake does not scrape a bunch of paint off.

I'm guessing that you lubed the cup and cone do floppy inside the square frame piece of linkage near the bottom of the picture. That area needs to be dry to produce enough friction to keep the motion control lever in place.

Since my main purpose of wanting a tractor was to maneuver my trailer around the property, a ball hitch was the first thing I added. The previous owner had added a plate for a clevis hitch. I try to remember to get a photo.

I could see them for the first time here on Long Island! Went to the beach by my house but didn’t have my phone! Pretty awesome.

Here too! And an hour north in Greenwood Maine.

Here’s from in South Glastonbury:

Forum rules... gonna need pics...

For $13 ish plus shipping you can just make one out of aluminum for less than $20 https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum/0-063-thick-x-0-125-hole-x-0-1875-stagger-aluminum-perforated-sheet-3003-h14-round-hole/pid/13494

This has been on my camera and the deer my son shot last weekend for youth hunt his first deer

There are intake manifolds available for the LS that will mount a carb. I am considering a Quadrajet 'cause I like the 'Quadrajet howl' when you mat the gas pedal.

@Ed Kennell think I would use , lucas marine grease in those bearings , made for boat drives , 570 deg rated , made for moisture , would still keep an eye on it , probably the ultimate test on a bearing lube , soon as I saw your write up, looked on line , much better pricing , but have to wait for the stuff to arrive. good luck with that , pete

Heres the knock, after tightening the pulley, and deleting the balance gears. This is with a new rod, piston..sounded the same with the old parts.

Im tempted to tie off the governor and get far...far away, put the tach on it and see how hard she'll turn before the knock stops. But its still got enough good parts to keep around, stupid part is its got a new rod, piston, rings, governor, carb, and it runs as good as any Kohler ive seen. Its knocked like this for over 2 years and over 140 hours, the oil has 0 metal.

The Sundstrand 91-1140 is listed as being installed on the 1974 to 1977 C-160 model. The drive pulley being splined rather than being keyed to a round shaft would be tie primary difference. Buying a used Sundstrand without being able to test it is a real crap-shoot unless you know the seller and they stand by their product. A-Z Tractor can be trusted and tests everything they sell. https://www.a-ztractor.com/

@BurtB often refer to spring assist on related cabling , choke / throttle , in addition to super lube inside the cable , always add a LIGHT extension spring to related lever connection point , why ? its always ASSISTING ANY CABLE MOVEMENT , always pulling it to CLOSED , that would always make for consistent cable slide assist , experimented with this set up , because it was always anything but , smooth / easy . those cables are easy to do , penetrating oil soak down , super lube next , look for a spring assist pull point , or screw on a perforated metal go to point , experiment with light spring pull feel assist , my 3 horses have this , for years , pete

Boys and I got the show ponies washed up and loaded for Sundays show! Show is downtown Clarion Pennsylvania if anybody’s nearby.