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My new shed landed today! 10x20 in Sage Green, two double doors and two lofts. Will easily hold 6 tractors with room to walk around them, maybe more if I jam em in.

Boys and I got the show ponies washed up and loaded for Sundays show! Show is downtown Clarion Pennsylvania if anybody’s nearby.

PTO clutch disk (or what is left of it). You need to pull the PTO bell off and you will likely find where these parts came from.

Just the basic front end of my Work Horse GT1600.

Here’s mine, 92 312-8 and 87 308-8.

Not grumpy, just an honest response. Many of us are more dependent on others than we like but are blessed to have people in our lives who love us enough to help.

So I got this dropped off at my house last night. Has new tires, new blades, new spindles, new deck belt. The engine was swapped out from the original Briggs to this 25hp Kohler. Runs, drives and cuts just fine . The issue with it is that an over sized battery was shoved in there and the throttle and choke cables are messed up behind the dash. The throttle still functions if you mess with it a little but the choke dosnt. I'd like to find a little longer cables as they seem a little tight with this bigger engine. I think they route a little different as well. Not sure how to look for them. For free I will let it stay in the yard till it's fix so I can pass it on to someone who will over pay for it because its green. 20241004_155044.mp4

Front view friday?

I figured that's what youzz meant to write but I was hoping to glean some super useful new learnin' My phone will "autocorrect" things that AREN'T EVEN WRONG!!! Like I need help screwing up????

I really hate this new phone. If I typo, it comes up with its own interpretation… I’m gonna have to proofread more. I fixed the post. The old saying is true: Never give a smartphone to a dumba$$…

Tiny bit of the top corners of the front end.

If you find that you can't fix it yourself. Contact K&B (one of our vendors) they sell new, used and rebuilt PTO bells and the clutch disk .

Thanks, guys I'm not sure if it's an easy fix for someone as mechanically inexperienced as myself but I watched a youtube video and I'll give it a shot. Thanks, Jim

Very Nice!!!!👍

Any $100 wheel horse purchase is a win.

Interesting watch. Big respect for all these guys.

Just got to cut a 🕳️ in the floor for the potty!

More work on the old 308-8 today after work. A bit of greasing, lubing and removing and replacing three stuck screws, and the three other screws I got out, with bolts.Then replacing four heavily rusted clips with threaded inserts. It was a bit of a PITA but It’s coming along.

Hey, the tires are worth more than that!

The coil is potted! Vacuum chamber worked really well, you could see bubbling from the center where the coil was. Had to add more epoxy after the first coil assembly vacuum as it sucked it into the coils. It was wild! Love me some garage magic/advanced red-neckery. Coil and housing. Did some die grinding inside of the housing to get the worst of the rust out and then cleaned with 70% isopropyl. Coil is taped, leads soldered in, heat shrink on the ends, fiber shims under the tape to hold it off the bottom. Coil in the housing and dammed with duct tape. That Gorilla Duct Tape is great stuff, BTW. Degassing mixed resin: Getting the air out of the coil: Leads on the assembly measure 3.4ohms. Now we let it cure for 24hrs.

As I thought about things, it occurred to me that if I bought just an engine for $50-100 that I'd still be missing a number of needed parts like a fuel tank, fuel pump, ignition and seat all of which together might start adding up cost-wise. I found someone selling a newer model Craftsman for $70 on Facebook Marketplace, did some quick research and took a gamble that it'll do the trick... if not, I may already have a second project on my hands! LOL!

There is an acentric screw on the linkage on the left hand side behind the battery. If this is loose or worn out it will effect reverse. You will probably need to remove the battery to get to it.

@WHX?? I may or may not be "one of those guys" - but just learning that I might need to look at adjacent years when troubleshooting is valuable knowledge! The wiring diagram I had showed a 2-prong switch. Now that I realize what I'm looking for it all makes sense. Thanks!

No but is a switch located by the brake/return to neutral pedal that must activated for the engine to start. Many guys bypass the switches as they can be troublesome with age. Not recommended if others unfamiliar with it operate the tractor.

Somebody had parts in there that didn't belong. Looks like the remnants of a thrust bearing of sorts. the outer bearing is designed to act as a thrust bearing if it's the correct bearing. Assemble exactly as show in the IPL. I notice you have the usuall battery box issues ... the fix here...

that make me want to make my shop into a mess for weeks… @kpinnc I would say that is part of the fun and in the winter this is what keeps me from going nuts all this time with nothing to do. I have a 1057 that is up next. Tore it down to the frame cleaned every part buy hand. That is a time killer.

it looks a lot like a Honda/clone engine.

If the area around the axle seals is all oil caked dirt the seals may be OK. Diesel will leak where 80w90 wont. If it was me I'd put gear oil in it and run it awhile and only fight the hubs when I knew for sure I had to.

Start with cleaning the linkage and adjusting/replacing any worn/sloppy components. Some of it needs to be lubes, some needs to stay dry. The hydro pump and motor fins should also be cleaned to insure good cooling. Also checkout the acceleration valves and springs as 953nut mentioned. Probable just some maintenance in both areas is due.

I would think that the thin diesel would make for a bit of whine coming from the higher speed small gears and needle bearings. 90-140W oil may be a little more quiet.

You’ll be hard pressed to find an engine shaft 4 inches long nowadays. Just over 3 is more common. But, you can use spacers to set the pulley that goes to the transmission on the 3 inch shaft. Also- vertical engines often use a welded collar with both pulleys that is held in place by a bolt into the end of the engine shaft. Finding a comparable replacement shouldn’t be impossible.

Oh, I had a wonderful birthday and I very blessed with a great family, sorry if I came off as grumpy!!! Randy

Absolutely beautiful!

I ended up getting the AC B-110 out today to tow the 14-8 up the hill to my shop. I didn't have much time after getting the boat cleaned up and covered for outdoor storage in October - won't be able to get it in for shrink wrapping until November, and using the AC tractor to move the dock sections into the winter storage spot. The no move problem on the 14-8 looks like it might be more than a missing key and set screw, as the input shaft did not appear to turn while I was pushing the tractor while it was in gear. Strange thing is, there was not any unusual noise from the transmission before it quit running. The shifter seems to go into all the gears without any problems. OOPS. I have not checked to see if the high/low shifter is between gears. Got to remember to check the simple stuff first! I'll leave ya'all with a pleasant image. Shot it off the deck tonight just after sunset: Edit: Got to quote one of the political candidates - "Sometimes I can be a knucklehead". I went out to the Horse shed tonight and found that the hi/low shift lever was indeed between gears. Must have bumped it when I got off of the tractor to start taking the dock out of the lake. Didn't think of that cause, since I had not used low range on my way to the lake. Knowledge for me, a tidbit of wisdom for the rest of you - check ALL of the simple things first.

The batteries in those stems have a 10-15 year life if the aluminum housing doesn't crumble first. I always remove mine when I install the first set of new tires.

About a week after I had new tires installed on my truck one of those high dollar valve stems that monitor tire pressure bit the dust. Every time my wife drives my truck she complains about it but I'm to cheep (thrifty) to spend over $ 150 to turn that silly light off. Guess i could buy some black tape for $ 5, Thanks ED.

What!?!?!? I hope you realize risk you are taking young man...

I use black tape to cover all the useless tire pressure warning lights on my truck. I adjust my tire pressure (20-70 PSI) for the load and driving condition. Don't need a light to tell me when I have a flat tire.

Thanks gentlemen.... now why is reverse barley working? Sometimes it wont go in reverse at all. When it does its slower that the kid wearing a backwards bicycle helmet on the short bus.... please dont take that personal any helmet wearers out there around the Redsquare... lol

Insulation no….but once the zoning inspection happens I’ll be trenching and installing power/lights. All my tractor wrenching happens in the garage so this isnt a workshop.

The tractor is a WH 1960/61 Suburban 400 or 401. The Hood is a 61 Suburban 551. It is missing the belt guard $60-$80 and exhaust shield $40. Reproduction ones of these can be found but a bit pricey. Looks like it has the gas tank and rear slot hitch, which are missing sometimes. The steering wheel is the correct one and while it may have cracks in the black plastic coating, these can be repaired. The seat is the correct one. It's encouraging that there's not an extra large washer with bubble gum welding as the center of these seats can crack. That's an interesting engine. Most replacement engine require the hood to be cut, but that one fits under there nicely., I'd be tempted to keep it due to its uniqueness. The correct engine would be a Kohler K91 or a Tecumseh H55 It looks like the 3-piece transmission has a rubber boot over the shifter hole. That's a good sign. Water enters these transmissions through the shifter hole when the boot is missing or in bad condition. These tractors use the belt guard to guide belt slack to the engine pulley when you step on the clutch. With belt guard missing there a chance gear grinding was happening when they shifted gears. Used gears can be found, as this transmission used the same gears as the 2 pc 3 speed transmission. Another item to look at closely is the front wheels. The 58/59 RJ and 60/61 Suburban used a front rim that had a longer spindle through them. These rims are getting hard to find due to the originals usually being filled with calcium chloride for weight, which rusted them out. I have repaired some of these "holey" rims with JB Weld and fiberglass cloth. What is seen of the hood looks to be in good condition, but there is one slight suspicious area. The lower inside area of the hood shows some light colored spots. this could be rust through holes, or just leaves, trash etc. Newer style rims can be used by putting a spacer (shaft collar or stack of washers) between the rim and spindle base. Anyone recognize that engine, it really intrigues me! Good luck at the Auction.

So this is what the old lady was haranguing me about on the honey do. Finish the steel on it. Reminding her that some of you stretch a project out much longer didn't help... didn't mention names EB ... Have to do the soffits & facia yet but all the steel is done. Managed to retain all my fingers in the process ...

Dumb question, does it have the correct dipstick in it. If it had a dipstick for a hydro it wouldn't show as having any oil. Also, any chance the dipstick snapped off. I've seen that as well. Looks like there isn't any oil until you realize what happened. If it's not making any weird noises, and everything seems to be working, then I say fill it and run it.

Is the C-165 a roller? Much easier to swap engines than unlike hydros.

Watched the sun rise.....first time in 10 days. May be able to mow this afternoon.

Just keep them full of clean oil, and they run forever. Good to see you’re enjoying that tractor. Welcome to the sickness!

Looks like you found a good donor. .Take us along for the swap. Remember with hydraulics, cleanliness is key.