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I saw one of those trucks yesterday! There was something in the way of parking my Horse however…

Afternoon fellas and Felletes... Been using a 2011 Rogue with a CVT as a daily... cant tow "poop" with it... rating is 1000lbs and thats 999 too much. These CVTs are WEAK... but I digress. Sold the Rogue to my Nephew as he was daily driving a '96 F350 4x4 with a 460!! Bought a '16 Jeep Renegade 4x4 with a 6 speed manual. 4.43 rear gears and a full tow package. Its rated for 2000 lbs. I hate driving my pickup in salt all winter... this will allow me to move tractors and such around, help my family and take trash to dump. All the while the GMC Sierras frame says Thank You! Thank You very much! A 4x6 trailer and one tractor with 42" sd deck is in the 1300 lb range. I tested it and am plesantly surprised at the performance. Engine is a 1.4 l F.I.R.E Turbo so far MPG average is 32.5 Hope you enjoy the rest of your weekend Tony

If you are a supporter (USERNAME IN RED) of the best tractor website on the internet, you can get in on this. I have one Keyrack and four keychains that I will be drawing a name for on Friday the 20th. Post once here and you will go on the list. Good luck and thanks for being here! (USA ONLY)

I do believe this image has been posted on here before, but I'm too lazy this morning to try and find it. It's currently showing up on some random truck facebook group page and there seems to be conflicting guesses on the lawn tractor.

The grass looks dead from the heat and lack of rain. I thought a good scratching may wake it up.

Nice, Tony. The 6 speed is a bonus - "The Ultimate Millineal anti theft device" - they have No clue what the third pedal is for...,,,

Haven't tried that. Tried a carb, tried a coil and plug, tried the sticking exhaust valve. Just won't run. Guess I'll hit the hardware store for some red later.

Spec # checks out as a ... they used the original shroud. Short block maybe? Just keeps gettin better... Found this under seat debris... regular freakin hardware store there... Now I gotta see if I can save the rusted tight needle nose... Whatthehellisthematta with a clown like me...

I picked this up today thinking it may go to my grandson, but….then I saw it - it’s really nice and I’m keeping it! Sorry kid 🤪 The deck is like new…the paint is good, it’s very clean and don’t ever get me started on the seat

Bring it to the big show next year and let's get'r fired up

Makes you wonder just how many of those @Pullstart Kevin could fit.....!!

Turbo -air 164 80 HP. 2 1bbl carbs one on each side. I had a 67 " Vair " with the 110 HP and Powerglide. It would go like stink!

It was an opposed air cooled flat six cylinder engine. The garden tractor being loaded appears to be a Speedex.

Change the paint. It'll feel better.

It's shown in this video at around the 55 second mark:

Super nice….and that deck! Looks like it hasnt seen much use.

I had to watch 3 of my grandsons the other day while my wife and daughter went to a funeral. They got kinda' antsy, so I figured "why not take them for a ride with ole' rusty". Went all around the property, up into the woods and back. They had a blast. So did I.

The belt sider cover on a 953/1054 has no lower belt guide, that is done by a piece of angle iron bolted to the engine and rear of the frame..

Pick me! Pick me!

Plus he has orginal oil air filter for it. Going to try and get him to throw in one bottom plow with it

Glad I bought both 6" and 5" nipples the 6" puts you too far out and bumps the clutch peddle arm after assembled, the 5" in my opinion is just right.

Ah, yes... the 2 speed Powerglide. With two forward speeds - "slip" and "slide"

You sure the stink wasn't you and your squonk eggs?

Its all there except head light covers.

Inrteresting engine may not have been the only thing swapped out. Tranny manual shows 103916 for a c-161 Briggs twin. (1-1/8" 8 pinion) 5086 is 1" 4 pinion used in several other models... I have never broken any WH gear tranny... Measure you axles....

@PWL216 Nice tractor!

Those that speed them up and trail ride through the woods weld the differential. One reason is traction the other is to have brakes on steep hills. Braking one wheel will lock and the other will freewheel

Nice ,looks practically new.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wheel+horse+wheel+bearings&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=wheel+horse+wheel+bearings&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIICAEQABgWGB4yDQgCEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyDQgDEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyDQgEEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyDQgFEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyCggGEAAYgAQYogQyBggHEEUYPNIBCTEyNDMwajBqNKgCALACAQ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 notice the WIDE RUBBER SIDE SHIELDS ? small flat putty knife , pocket flat screwdriver , carefully / easily remove , clean out original generic lube , repack with a 550 flash point grease , hi stress / heat , side loading , play , shucking combines to destroy bearings as well as wheel bearing mount hold point in the wheel itself . this is an easy , simple , upgrade . pictures for reference , if you want original / genuine $ bearings , the improvement still applies , easy to do , add shims .pete

That one is almost tooo purdy to use...NOT!!

On the Corvair pickup, VW had a pickup version of their bus, and so the US carmakers made their own. Ford had their Econoline vans and pickups, Chevrolet had the Corvair, and Dodge had their A-100 vans and pickups. The Corvair was closer to the VW design as it had a rear engine like the VW. The engine in the Corvair, I believe was an inline 6, air cooled if I remember correctly. Ford and Dodge had front mounted, liquid cooled engines. Chevrolet did bring out a front engine mounted van, but I can't remember if there was a pickup version.

Any quality pipe dope or tape will do. Like penetrating oil everyone has their favorites.

@PWL216 that rig is so original , its scary , 303 PRODUCTS , MAKES A GREAT , VINYL ENHANCER . preserves what you have . that paint is right on the point of a waxing or a mineral oil wipe down , NOW IS THE TIME TO SAVE IT . like oil in the mower deck , lower edge rail to deck area , lets it creep into related areas . lucky you , pete

Haban flail mower, custom adapted to WH PTO for power. Custom hydraulic front lift bracket (2” receiver tube; mounts on front- and mid-attach-a-matic; quick-connect hydraulic lines) with 15” range and 1,000 lb capacity Custom 2-spool hydraulic valve with cable-linked joystick control and quick-connects extending Eaton 1100 hydro circuit (520-H chassis with 18hp Onan, a.k.a 518-H++) Craftsman (Brinley) rear grader on Brinley sleeve hitch LED front & rear lighting

Tractor just home. Engine as received. Tractor de-greased and washed. Wire harness as received that was heavily butchered and modifies with a toggle switch for on.off and a push button start. Ignition coil was dead when I got it and I assume they may have put +12V to it. Wire harness rebuilt and a new ignition coil installed. Tractor cleaned up and running. I will run the old gas out of it and put in fresh fuel before adjusting the carb. Steering block was worn so new bushings installed there and on upper steering shaft. Clutch idler was repacked with grease and now runs quiet and smooth. PTO ball bearing and grease seal replaced. PTO needle bearing greased. Proper PTO pin installed. New roll pin installed into shifter as a loose fitting straight pin had been installed by PO and shifter was very loose. Shifts great now.

Nice!!!

Richie, you are the best.

Not necessarily. Limited slip takes half the power of the wheel slipping and sends it to the other wheel. It is very easy to get just as stuck with and LSD as you would be with an open rear. Half of zero is still zero afterall. How the power transferred also makes a difference in how well it works. Clutch-style LSDs tend to be more susceptible to that kind of issue. Torsen units, which more closely resemble the 10-pinion rears, are better. They have a lower torque bias and so if you have one wheel standing still and the other spinning fast enough you get get a Torsen to act like a locker.

So far, yes. Find out why it was parked though, before you buy it......

Why would you want to drill and tap them on a 45 deg angle? It probably wouldn't work for a grease zerk anyway since the threads on them aren't very long. Plus it could easily get knocked off too

Also, I took a measurement of the depth of the bearing before I pulled it out. It's about 3/16" below the surface. Is this a good depth for receiving the seal? Thanks, Smitty

Yeah, I know about the 45-degree and 68--degree elbows. But I wanted to know how to hold that angle while drilling and tapping.

Yep same tractor ... 1067 My first one and first resto. Was supposed to be a trailer queen and parked in my living room to look at. @Achto 's restos are a hell of alot nicer than mine and he has no qualms about sticking them in the dirt so who am I? Used to plow with it after resto till I set up a dedicated 1257 plow mule. Would like to find a rough molested 1267 to resto. Only model I would ever resto again.

I gotcha covered. C'mon down! We'll get yours fixed up too.

How are you testing it. I buy mine at a station that has a dedicated hose on a common pump. I’ve always wondered if there’s other shared piping that’s diluting my ethanol free purchase.

The 300’s I’ve touched both needed alignment help. The worst one felt like I was trying to turn a big vehicle that lacked power steering. Turned out the steering arm on one spindle was bent. On the other, ordinary wear was causing it to wander it bit. When set with only a very slight toe-in, they are a LOT easier to steer and adjustable tie rods are the bomb!

Later model steering wheel installed. Mainly because I will use the original wheel on my GT1600 project. Fuel cap without gauge installed because the original one was missing the clear cover and would let dirt and water in. Good used hitch installed to replace very bent one that tractor came with.