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I had this wrench in my pocket a few weeks back. Then it was gone. In my travels the other day, my phone fell between the seat and the center console, where you keep french fries. When I reached down to retrieve the phone, the 10mm emerged with the phone!

Any fries?

Some I have had and some I Owen.

Note that the 520 part uses the two console cover screws in addition to the current ones. The cover on console cover on the 520's have a jog in them to allow for the additional height, washers or spacers will be needed. I had the same breakage on my 1991 520H because it was made before the update. I think that the 520C models had the improvement and all 520's made from 1992 and up had the update. For my 1991 I bought both the updated seat support and the console cover plus I added reinforcement under the break after it was welded.

It appears that the new paint was put on without scuffing the original paint. This would be why it is pealing the way it is. Back before vinyl decals, cars & trucks were hand lettered with paint over the un-scuffed original paint. To remove painted lettering we would use Easy Off oven cleaner. It would remove the lettering without damaging the original paint. I would try an inconspicuous spot to see if Easy Off will work for you.

The BBT got her first restoration Pony out for a ride tonight. Swapped batteries from another tractor. Added some oil and gas. Replaced a bolt holding the solenoid we'd added years ago. Then went for a short cruise before we loaded up for Jim's.

Did some more work over the start of this week. Monday I got the engine out of the donor tractor. Took some sheet metal off of a spare engine that I’m using for parts for this engine since it didn’t have some of the covers. Sprayed down the engine in degreaser and washed it clean. Sanded down and painted the shroud covers. And hopefully by the end of this week the engine will be in and painted. Also put in the dash board with 2 new used throttle and choke cables since Mr.Kelly had to use these for one of his other tractors and this one didn’t have them hooked up with the predator.

Took a lot of pictures at the show of decals and dash panels. It payed off. Worked on the C series dash plates and got these checked off the list. I did have a little “wood imperfection” on the top one but at least the design works. Next is the 953/1054/Gt14 style plates. These will be used for keyracks / magnets, etc.

I've seen one up here like that but with grey/silver wheels. Less ugly... yes... but not by much. There's an electrician around here that has one. He absolutely LOVES it. GOBS of POWER. When it's running right......

In my freeway travels today, I saw a Cybertruck on the road. This one had the typical tinted windows, but was painted (wrapped?) flat black. Wheels were black as well. It actually made the truck less ugly - surprised me that that was possible. Gave it a F-117 stealth fighter vibe. I also saw another high dollar rig - was a Rivian towing one of the small single axle Airstream trailers. Had to be $100k plus running down the road. Ran across a 30(?) foot cataraman with two 500 horse outboards (color coordinated to the boat) being trailered as well. The Silverado tow vehicle was the cheap item in that rig.

I'be used Easy Off to remove paint on model car bodies. It is worth a try. I wonder if you let it set on the paint too long if it will start attacking the originals paint? Like @Achto says, try it in a hidden spot first.

Guys, just grinding the flat on the rails will help but it won't fix it. The neutral detent must have the upgrade as well as the stop pin. There's plenty of the upgraded rails out there so just get the right ones. Keep in mind the 2nd/3/rd and 1st/reverse rails are different but they are almost always sold as a pair. I wouldn't go through the trouble of opening it up unless you do it right.

After a year of unmotivation Break, i found again some motivation to finish my Transit Van. so i started again up in sheet Metal shaping. Built the First part... time to hammer it out in the real shape i adapted and formed it closer to the Form i need. Hammer and Dolly and several tries turns out that Way. i mag solder it in spot by spot Than a first adaption to the final shape And allway’s a checking the gaps... But it occurs that the Frontgrill is uneven. Better i use a lineal to line up the gap... Ok on the lineal it appears even but than.... Aarrrggghhhh what the Heck... it line up with the lineal but when i mount the grill - ooops look at the uneven gap but it was definitiv in the Front Grill, i checked it up with a lineal again - so let‘s see if i can it egalize as close as... better. But there when i line it up more, the right outline become a angle more than it should... ok let‘s see if i can egalize it little more... Close but not perfect but because the most part of it is hidden with the Front Bumper i let it as it is. Lots of more to work on...

More https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=73403&quick=1&type=downloads_file

Hi All, I just bought a used ToroWheelhorse 314 Hydro! I know very little about it but I heard its a tough beast. It came with a snowblower which is great as I am in Canada. I am attaching pics of serial numbers for tractor and deck. I just signed up to this forum and am reading up. Sorry if these are dumb questions or the info is available somewhere else on here. I am wondering: -what year is this rig? -the main deck pulley is toasted...What is the part # and where can I buy one in Canada? -I just got this thing...What should I look for or do maintenance wise? Thanks!

Sundstrand after the early 70s used the engine oil. My 70 Charger was ATF. My 75 Automatic is 10w30.

Now if you could only find the other half dozen you lost

Thanks Don, I have that part and it’s fine. It’s the two rails that it bolts to that have cracked/rusted and broken.

One thing I’m pretty good at is getting into the bumps and bruises section. Another is eating. No food down there this time…

My thought is that a jackshaft behind the Ross box would be stronger and work smoothly.

If you are still looking for front wheel bearings, these are the ones that I've been using. I just remove the inside bearing dust cover so they accept grease from the wheel zirk. https://a.co/d/9NLHY0Q

yes the detention pin, spring and balls are longer in the deeper half moon cut on the shift rails. And I might add that detention pin, spring, balls insertion is a very tricky maneuver! I recall trying to do this with my dad and brother a dozen years ago on a 1054 tractor transmission. The balls kept popping out when we tried to push the rails down into the transmission. Finally, my mother came out and told us that we should use a bamboo chop stick to set those in and it worked like a charm!

if you plan to use that rear discharge mower deck on that hydro tractor be aware the grass discharge will get on the underneath of the rear end of tractor and attach itself to the hydro fins thus negatively effecting its possible cooling -- suggest you be sure to clean off underneath rear of tranny after each mow on regular basis - you may want to consider adding deflector to the rear of deck -- your choice - just an idea to deflect clipping downward but you will still have some accumulate on tranny - i use wall kick plate vinyl that has natural curve plus a curled lip - i use carriage bolts with the rounded heads underneath so they do not get damaged

to the forum. You picked up a good tractor. I've got 14 horse 8 speed from 1973 - a previous version of your 314. It has done everything I have asked it to do. I'm sure that you will find the same. The folks here on the forum are a good bunch of people. I think that between us all, we have managed to break and repair just about everything on a Wheel Horse that can be broken and repaired. Plenty of advice is freely available here. As far as questions go, ask away. The only dumb question is the one that you don't ask.

My peugeot 208 had the sound of water "sloshing" about somewhere whenever I went round a roundabout. I couldn't place where but it turned out when it rained, water ran down the front scuttle and into the inside of the bulkhead members. There were rubber drain plugs at each side to allow water to escape naturally. But they get stopped up with crud and you end up with an extra water tank on board. Why on earth would you think that was a good idea, unless it was to allow the chassis to rot from within. French engineering my foot.

I'm trying to imagine a LinkedIn job description for such a position. In defense, though, I worked in the nuclear engineering department of a big construction company. It was intensely challenging to coordinate and synchronize the different disciplines. A couple of my favorites were: the 24” wide by 6” high electrical tray planned to cross a catwalk at a height of 38 inches (hey, it cleared the handrails!), and the 18" high pressure steam pipe that was supposed to go through a reinforced concrete wall but the plans for the wall omitted the necessary hole. I’m sure @Ed Kennell’s work on turbine engineering gave him a whole separate thread’s worth of near misses.

Older Fords are like that too. The driver's side of the frame will be super clean/rust free, and the passenger side will rust out. After a bit of research I have determined that it's because the power steering doesn't leak all over the passenger side.

That's easy Cleat. It's the routine maintenance....blade sharpening.

@Brockport Bill This is what I use on the tires, spray it and leave it on not wiping it. Just wiping whatever may get on the rims. It’ll stay shiny for quite some time, it’s not exactly cheap but it works well. I forgot what I used on the seat? Maybe the same stuff? Whatever I used does make you want to slide off the seat! Reminds me of Armoralling a bench seat so it was super slippery, then making hard right turns so the girl would slide over next to you!!! Kids now will never experience that!!!

Recently I restored my C-175 and used oil base Benjamin Moore Linen White, sprayed it with a gun and honestly couldn’t have been happier. Very little smell, dried fast and nice and glossy. Plus it wasn’t very expensive, I definitely recommend it. A quart was more than enough to spray four deep dish back rims and two front rims.

Day 7: Well it’s starting to look like a tractor again! I put the steering colum and battery tray on. And both of the black plates for the controls and amp meter. Also installed a handle for the release for the belt and replaced the idler pulley.

Day 6: Yesterday got some stuff done. Got the fuel tank mounts painted and mounted up. Got the seat pan mount and that support piece painted. Got the steering tower sanded and painted. And painted the 2 black covers for the amp meter and all the controls for the hydro, hydraulics, brake etc. Also opened up the gas tank to find a whole bunch of rusty water! Swished around bad gas in there until it came out how I put it in. Replaced the fuel tank grommet and put the shutoff valve back in. IMG_8965.mov

Day 5: Got the rear half of the tractor painted and the underside. But the fender mounting bracket back on. Painted the Hydro lever bar a rust oleum color I found in the cabinet. And put the front end back together, Waiting for the new tie rods to come (Hopefully they’ll work) then I can put the front end back on the tractor.

Day 4: Got a lot done today. Took the front end off, shaker plate mounts, and the rest of the steering parts. Sanded the front half of the frame down and taped some things off and started the painting process! And I sanded down the things I took off today and got them all painted.

Got some parts in today. I got 4 new tires two rear 23/10.5/12 ags and two front 16/6.5/8 turf tires. Got 2 adjustable tie rods. And a gas cap.

Day 3: Sorry didn’t post anything the last week we were in NJ for vacation so didn’t get to do anything. Today before it got too hot out towed up the tractor a doused it in degreaser and pressure washed it. Blasted all the loose paint off and all the years of grease and grime. Also took off the mid attach o matic and rear fender mount, lift cable and tube, and a belt guide. Questions: When I towed up the tractor I had the disengage lever pulled for the transmission but one tire was going forward and one was going backward why is that? Where could I get the part number for the hydro filter? It has a Napa Gold filter on it now but the number is worn away.

Day 2: Today was just another of a strip down day. I took off the fuel tank mounts, left hand floor board and that side cover, front attach o matic, and I took the whole steering column and dash board all out. Tommorow should be another day to work on it too.

I have a snowcab that I’m trying to I.D. I am currently installing it on my C160, it’s just not fitting right, 03CB01-04047 is the id. I was told by a fellow member here to mention @gwest.ca in this post. thanks in advance!

if it works it works i geuss huh lol interesting how people make do without the proper items

Tho idiots with the same question.... 😂😂😂😂

Make sure you get the side to side movement as small as possible. I have a set of those exact bearings in my Tecumsehorse front wheels. They're just a tiny tad loose. I haven't verified measurements on the spindles but they looked OK. Not excessively worn.

We helped that on the Workhorse by adding BIG fender washers.

Thanks! I ordered some parts and a new belt from the local toro dealer and will go over the deck. I just hauled this rig home so I'll have to give it a good going over. Thanks for the advice, I'm off to a good start!

Another issue is that the AC condensation drain drips on the passengers side frame of the older Fords.

Added a new seat, grab handles and headlight bezels onto the 418-8.

Haven't done anything yet today. Yesterday we went and grabbed a dryer that a friend's relative was giving away, then spent most of the rest of the day cleaning out the garage. I got the best, most confused look I have ever seen from my wife in the 20 years I've know her when I said we could just stick the spare dryer in the garage and hook it up out there, and then pointed to the 220V outlet. She could not for her life figure out why I had one out there. Then I took the boy and his one friend fishing for a few hours before dinner. Today looks like more cleaning after church. I never got to addressing the sorry state of my tool box.

Day 8: Today got a few things accomplished. Got the front end back on the tractor. My dad is going to shorten the tie rods tommorow then the front end should be complete. Got the front attach 0 matic on. Put on the brake linkage. And adjusted. Got the rear shaker mount block on. Got another belt guide painted, And mid attach o matic painted. Still not sure what color I should paint the rims. Thoughts? Question: Is there any crossover bearing number for the front wheel bearings?

And this baby makes..... Out of fingers & toes so I quite counting.

Well it's been a hot minute but I did have time to get back on the 520. I started with the hood which was in poor shape to say the least. So with some bondo, filler primer, and lots of block sanding I got it fairly smooth and straight. I went to paint the rest of the tins and miscellaneous parts and I don't know if it was a paint or thinner problem or even a me problem lol but I sprayed it on and it looked good then in no time flat the fender pan paint started to sag then the belt guards followed. The hood turned out nice which is what's weird to me because all the pieces were prepped exactly the same aside from mixing up more paint. So now we wait for it to dry and sand it all back smooth and try again.