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Reminded me of the day I stopped at the barber shop after cleaning a rusty pair of wheels with a wire wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder. After working on my hair for a few minutes, the young female barber left out a blood curdling scream and said there is a wire sticking thru your ear.. This was before body piercings were quite common. She refused to touch it and had to get a male barber to pull the one inch wire that passed thru the lobe of my ear. Moral....wear your safety equipment

Oh, that's an easy fix. We had a D9 Cat with a right track that wouldn't lock. You just had to back up to turn right.

Should have changed the oil on this Mag 10 right before I pulled it so I could have warned it up. Oh well, drained it “cold” and she now has fresh Rotella.

Yes. The starter on the KT-17 and KT-19 are the same as the M-16, M-18 and M-20 horizontal or vertical crankshaft engines. Removing the hood will give you ample access to get at the starter, no need to pull the engine. The starter on your 18 twin may just need to have the shaft cleaned and lubricated with some dry graphite lubricant.

Go best of both worlds... You can make a right with a looooong left loop.

Almost. It just seems to want to turn left. Right turn is almost non existent. I want a dump truck not a race car.

My new gas tank bushing and shut off valve come in, so I was able to run it a little longer than the jar of gas allowed the past few nights 😂. I think I’ve got the points set right and the carb dialed in, and was able to test the hydro - so far so good!

When I let Lincoln at A to Z Tractor know what we had going on here he immediately sent another pipe right out. Here's the two side by side: And all installed.

Forgot to post pics of my GT-14. We changed battery, oil, fuel filter, trans filter, and trans fluid today. Forgot to grab an air filter. Tractor will now spin tires if rider-less against a tree. Right wheel spins if I'm sitting on it. Doesn't sound great, it will need engine and trans rebuild. PTO clutch is stuck on. Electrical is a mess, have one wire with a break that I have to jiggle with to get it to start. Will throw a wire nut on it until I redo electric.

The title of the thread is WHAT DID YOU DO TODAY? We all know that BBT and her mom do all the work around your place, did you at least take the picture?

And brings back memories from the 1940s of our annual family reunion at Idlewild Amusement Park. As poor Appalachian kids, we saved our Christmas and Birthday money for this summer trip to the park. A couple pics circa. 1948-9 ? Our Gang...I'm the little guy on the right. Just arriving at Idlewild for a family reunion.

This may be a wacky suggestion, but just out of curiosity, take off the air cleaner and spray some starter fluid, carb cleaner or brake cleaner directly into the throat of the carb and see what happens when you try to start it. Before I replaced the carburetor on my 416-H, I could crank it for what seemed like minutes and it would not fire. But a shot or two of brake cleaner fired her right up. If she runs on the "starter" fluid, you have a carb or pump problem.

Seems like this would be a more visible and definite on/off

Not the same as what you guys are showing..but I was thinking about something like this for my 1960s wheel horse tractors as a quick disconnect while displaying at different shows and such.. I had people turn keys and lights on when I’m not around …

Best it was found BEFORE she snagged it thru the comb !!

Napa $6.50 qt

It's connected to the wench as it will draw power. It's just a cheap Ebay switch 100 amp. I had been disconnecting the ground cable to the wench.Third picture you can remove the key to lock it. I don't even take the switch key out of my tractors. I was going to mount it on the dash the hour meter didn't work, But it a smaller size little less then the 1 1/8" hole it's mounted in.

I have had 17 and 20 HP twin engines and never used them for mowing. IMO, they burn too much fuel and throw off too much heat to be used hot summer mowing. I do still have my 520H with a heated cab and a dual stage blower. It has only been used for snow removal. BTW, I use turf tires and rubber chains on the 312H for pushing the 48" snow plow, and I am amazed by the traction. And of course they don't mark up the paving on the 5 driveways i keep clear.

My 312 H is my main worker. The M12 engine and the Eaton 1100 tranny handles a 48" SD deck and a 48" snow plow with no problem. I have changed the 6" fronts to 8" and added a primer bulb in the fuel line for instant starts.

All I did was drive around in a box truck all day delivering building materials.

All back together. Runs. Drives. No leaks. We'll run it. Cool it. Repeat. Then send it home.

I spent some time today cutting the steering column bracket out and rebuilding it. It took a while but I think I figured out how to make it work. As you suggested @953 nut I will have to add a bracket to extend it behind the steering column about 7 inches. I will also have to extend the pivot plate to lower the connection about 3 inches because of the height I had to mount the dash. I'll post pictures when I get it built.

FYI

I was thinking same thing... even I would know when it was on/off...

I never liked stuffing the plugs in my ears. Always use the muffs when possible.

Underside of hood painted. Not perfect, there are bubbles in the paint for some reason.

When my mother had her first knee replacement the results were so good she couldn't wait to have the second one done, great improvement in her mobility. As @adsm08 said, they won't last for ever, my mother's replacements were in need of replacement after about 30 years but at that point she was not a good candidate for the surgery being well into her 90s. My wife and I seem to take turns being caregiver for one-another, so far the only replacement part needed was a shoulder for my wife.

Nothing wrong with race cars! The drag link on the 953/1054 crosses under the frame pushing and pulling the steering arm on the left front spindle. Your steering box is too close to allow this to happen. May need to improvise a cross shaft mounted behind the steering box that will be rotated forward and back by the Ross box and have a lever nearer the center of the shaft to attach the drag link to.

@Docwheelhorse is the man on Briggs and Stratton powered Wheel Horses, hope he has the answer you need.

That answer has a pun in it - the word "draw" !! Having worked at a facility that made quality Automotive switches and devices, the key to having a switch like that survive is the amount of current it sees while on and the amount of parasitic draw it has to isolate. That is based on its construction - size & material of the leads & contacts, spring load on the contacts and the material the housing is made of. Another factor is if it is sealed against the weather for water intrusion. If any of them are marginal, the switch will heat up and ultimately fail. Our switches were built to survive a 150% consistant max load for extended time - got to see the testing in action during one annual product line re-validation quality run. Kind of like watching paint dry - no issues. BUT, I did get to see the thermal meltdown of switches of the same rating from both domestic and offshore competitors for the same test... Try not to set the Test Lab on fire.....

Does it have locking set screw on it if so loosen up the screw put some lube on and work it`s way up. This was from years of people pulling up to get off the tractor.Enjoy the ride.

A similar bearing to what holds the front of the steering shaft can be installed there. 2 bolt flanged type.

Oh, both my knees are qualified for replacement. I'm just waiting for Mrs.K to finish her therapy from her latest foot surgery. Maybe this winter

Absolutely. Wally world is pretty reasonable at under $20 per gallon around here.

Used that new front hitch to get the splitter dialed in.

Matt, Here are my thoughts, not saying I am correct, just thinking out loud. So I am assuming all of the following are known goods. No bent spindles. No bent blades. Deck is attached appropriately to the tractor. From your picture of the lawn, it looks to me that all 3 blades are not the correct diameter, too short. This would leave a gap in between the rotors, not allowing strips of grass to be cut. The blade diameter is critical because blades are NOT timed and have very tight tolerance at the meeting points at the tips of the blades. I see you have the Gator Style Blades. Did you buy them or did the deck come with them? I put down some notes to try to explain what I have experienced with the spindle and deck alignment. Let me know if something is confusing, they are just chicken scratches. Also can you let us know the history of the deck? Just wanting to know if it ever had welding repairs or deck spindle cracks. I think we can get your deck back to cutting that golf course flat beautiful look! Steve Note Aug 20, 2024 WH Deck Cutting issues.pdf

I'll add: great maple syrup kayaking on the Yough Falling Waters Mansion

I once got a chip on an ear plug and it stuck on the inside of my ear canal. Right under the forward part of the sticky outie part of the ear. It migrated through the skin and out the other side over a month or so. That was less than fun.

My first thought was flywheel key sheared? But I’m guessing as well.

Remove the stator leads from the RR and measure the AC voltage across those leads. The voltage should vary directly with the engine RPM peaking at 28-36 VAC at 3600 RPM.

The hard part is getting the steering wheel off. Using the WH part you don't have to modify anything. just center it and drill two holes and bolt it to the bottom side. I had a good used one that I used on my 312-8.

This thread should be helpful.

Finding this site, and especially this thread, has been most informative. The first and most important bit of knowledge I've acquired is that my 310-8 is obviously not an '86, as it has an M10 engine. Further research is required. Furthermore, my throttle cable sheath is fully retracted at its attachment point at the bell crank, and the long spring connecting the bell crank to the governor arm is jammed together, as if it were too long. The bell crank needs to be rotated almost it's entire distance and when it is, the spring is not stretched at all. Do I? A. Shorten the spring? B. adjust the governor arm? C. Back up and punt? Correct me if I'm wrong.....to adjust the governor arm, do I loosen the arm clamp and turn the governor shaft counter clockwise until it stops and retighten? You guys are fantastic for your willingness to assist. Thanks again!!!!!

I recently put a battery isolator on my 1991 S-10 pickup. $7 from Ebay. Did this because there was a constant drain on the battery from somewere that I could not locate.

Not to hijack the thread, but anyone notice how stupid expensive gear oil is getting??

@hotajax These are extremely handy. Until a few years ago I didn't understand the difference between a 3/4 washer and a 3/4 shim. They're night and day.

First thing I would check is the 9 pin molex connector on the right side by the fuse box . They corrode and melt from the battery fumes and muffler heat

I added a front hitch to the 310-8. I have one on the 312 that is centered on the mule drive, but it is not visible from the seat. I wanted one that was visible from the drivers seat for exact positioning when hooking up. This worked out really well and doesn't interfere with the deck, mule drive, steering, or hood opening.

The C series is next on my list.Its a Great looking machine and a work horse. I was thinking of adding a light just like you have here, could come in handy