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I've used this little B-80 for yard tractor for years. Putts around at low idle with my big butt and loaded. 37240281-A59A-45DB-88F3-4F1370A833EB.mov

The Large and the Small. On the way to the Steam Pageant.

Collected our new car today, Toyota Yaris Cross compact SUV

That orange color appears to be caused by the environment, the proof is the orange hair on the lab girl. 🦞. 👩‍🦰

Not quite, but I have a 42SD on my 310-8 that will finish this years mowing. I use the 312 for hauling firewood so it works much better in the woods w/o the deck. Then I'll put the plow frame with the front tiller on the 312 to till up the garden after it is done. After that the tiller comes off and 48" blade goes on just in case we get some snow.

Finally home.

Nice looking tractor. That transmission should be savable. Hear a source for a bearing, seal, & gasket kit. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/base-kit-1-for-manual-transmission/ If the large 1533 bearings are bad then you will need this kit instead. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/kit-1-with-2-1533-bearings-for-manual-transmission/ Inspect your 3rd gear closely. If you question it's condition, post a pic of it & we'll help you decide on its condition. Will mainly need to see the inner teeth of the gear. If you need 3rd gear, this is the only source for a new replacement. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/3523-3rd-gear/ I was able to bring this transmission back to life.

@ri702bill thanks for the shout ! you should also have on stretch pants when you see a red one , food coma , pete

Notice the blue ones too - equally as rare. BUT - they all turn red when ya boil 'em... Yum!! Down this way, close to Pete, is the Mystic Aquarium - they have had several adult blue lobsters donated over the years.

A simple weld should be sufficient. It looks like one end is in that bolt hole. Find the other end and drill it out, just needs to be a small hole, but it needs to be round. If you don't, even after the welding the crack can continue to spread. Drilling it will stop the spread.

EDIT My father passed away just before midnight. Thank you for all you support and reaching out. He was in great spirits right up til the very end. My Ole Man @Qball Bruce was diagnosed with bone marrow cancer a few years ago. He's been fighting the good fight and doing so for all his worth. The past few days have been quite a challenge for him. He went to Dana-Farber Cancer Institute in Boston over the weekend and they are hoping to bring him home tuesday. Some of you have met my father or parents. Believe it or not, there are decent folk even though they raised me. They are Protestant and would love to see your prayers or thoughts. I don't do Facebook or know how it works but if there is such a thing as a page I can share I will do so. I do encourage you folks to share this page by "mentioning" people or a link or whatever. The more the merrier. They would love to hear from you.

Hello all, This GT1642 has been for sale for awhile... Too much $$$ So I offered a straight trade tractor and deck for tractor and deck and they bit. 414-8 for GT Workhorse As far as help... anybody got a clean appropriately aged / patinaed rear work horse fender they want to sell or trade. Im no good at painting and it would never match anyways Briggs and Stratton--The POWER in power equipment! 20240806_163106.mp4

Hello,,new here,,greetings from the frozen tundra of NW Ontario.I just acquired this 633. I’ve wanted one of these for years just because i like their appearance. This one came up on FB so hooked up the wagon and dragged it home,,,cuz the rear end is locked up. The tractor is complete but the fist full clump of poop that came out of transaxle not good. Not sure how i will deal with this…a good used transaxle would be ideal. I do have a Sears SS12 4speed that i could cobble on but id rather not as im not in any hurry and the SS12 is complete machine. My only purpose for the machine will be for pulling a cart occasionally, possibly a mower deck or grader blade.

Fender clear coat applied. Left side cover clear coat applied. Right side cover clear coat applied.

https://wgme.com/news/local/rare-orange-lobster-donated-to-une-has-babies-university-new-england-maine-biddeford-girard-marine-science-center

Isn’t it ironic, her name is Ruby?

New set screws would help. Don't use regular bolts The cup on the end of the set screw is what digs in and holds. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/alloy-steel-square-head-cup-point-set-screws/?s=square+head+set+screw

Dodging T storms. Got the first load up to the Steam Pageant.

Update on the “Up/Down” dilemma. I consulted the schematics and discovered the previous owner had the lift chain and lift trunnion in the wrong positions on the bellcrank and lift bar. I put things back to the schematic drawing and everything works as it should. In the photo the blue line represents how he had it and the yellow line shows the correct attachment positions. Don’t ask me why that would make such a change, but it does. Now I can take my homemade labels off. @Handy Don you may want to check the routing on your two and see if that is also the problem.

Try shutting it down with the throttle wide open full I know this sounds counterintuitive but it worked for me

@Ed Kennell what a concept ! good for you ! have 3 decks on rotational line , probably put one to sleep soon my self , pete

From the 1978-79 service manual. After a few minutes of driving retorque the set screws. Again after a 1/2 hour of driving Again after an hour. Again after 2 hours until you are confident the torque sticks. Gives the parts time to settle in and stabilize. The lock nut should be just snugged up, Any tighter tends to pull the set screw back out and you lose the applied torque.

Fred - Welcome!! Looks to be fixable - seen a lot worse. Figure on the 4 seals, a case gasket, maybe more. Check the condition of the second / third gear - the engagement surface is usually worn to a point where it jumps out of gear under load. The is a great tutorial on rebuilding these here on RS. Look under Tutorials / Transmissions 5085 Transmission Rebuild. Internal parts are available, but it can be a tad pricey..... Not an overly difficult job, just messy...

as it left the Factory.......

Just took the 48SD off the 312H. Brushed the grunge out, oil draining bath, sun bake, and put to bed for the winter.

Before I get into this, I want to yell out a big THANK YOU to all the Wheel Horse Forum members who in one form or another contributed to this thread or elsewhere with their ideas. Again, THANK YOU! Kelsey My first photo in this thread, was to be a bit humorous because WH tractor owners have been in the past a bit frustrated in one way or another with WH maintenance. I know I have been. The wooden model was presented to the fabricator shop along with a well detailed set of plans. The fabricator laughed at the model. He said scaled plans were easy to read and understand. Almost 2 weeks later was when the hub puller was ready. Back in early July, I started soaking the hubs with Kroil in all vertical/horizontal positions possible. I wanted to try this hub puller style because I didn't want to break the cast hub. I just couldn't feature the frustrations I'd had if I did. The frame is 1/2" stock with a welded 1-1/8" nut along with an 8" fine thread bolt. Also, 3/4"x8" flat bars were drilled out on center to 1 1/8" to wrap around the shaft prior to final assembly. First photo, the 3/4" stock had about a 1/16" between the transmission and the hub. The Mapp gas torch was on target for almost an hour. The 1/2" plated tweaked a little bit along with 3/4" stock. Second photo, hub is slowly moving. Third photo, torch back on 30 minutes or so and then moved. Fourth photo, hub just about off. Fifth photo, different angle. Sixth photo, hub's off. Seventh photo, 3/4" stock is tweaked. Reversed on 2nd hub removal. Eighth photo, part's group photo. Ninth photo, overall picture Same sequence for 2nd hub removal. Also, sprayed penetrating oil on bolt prior to be torqued. Each side was ~ 2 hours by hand torquing along with 6-pound hammer for persuasion. Next day or so, I think the keyways popped right out because of the Kroil. The only modification I'd like done is to replace the nut and bolt with an 3/4" ACME rod and nuts. It appears that the bolt is galled. I enjoyed doing this arduous task out in the 90' weather along with those treacherous mosquitos biting me in those places where I couldn't reach. My bride helped me out too. Man, I love her!

@ri702bill we were in BERMUDA , had a black sea bass , sliced like a thick steak , lobster , pass out , pete

Just had an American pancake stack with crispy bacon and maple syrup at a Barnsley tea room. I'm guessing it may not be the same as served in the US but it was very tasty and filling. Five pancakes was more than enough for me ...

I do have a drill press so will look into this. Thank you

If you have only one set screw per hub, add a second one as shown above.

I did some more lay out today and I think I have the wheel base down to about 74" and a steering angle of about 40° - 45°. According to the turning radius calculator that should give me about a 6' - 6 1/2' turning radius. I think that is pretty short for a two seater dump bed and keep the dump truck look I am after. I will have to make a couple design changes but had ran short on a couple pieces of metal and needed to visit the metal shop anyway.

Thank you! That's very helpful to know I did not think of it possibly spreading further or that simply drilling a hole at the end will stop it. I personally don't do the weld I just have the farmer down the road do it but try to have all the prep done before I head down. Greatly appreciate the feedback.

Do I see mowing stripes in that grass?? I like it!

Yeah. Got the little pusher out for it's once a year run!

@Howard dellapuca / @857 horse Knows a guy who makes super wide wheels. I don’t think he’s on here but they were selling at the Big Show in ‘22. Here he has a set of tires stretched on a super wide wheel. He was explaining something to my daughter about the seat… they were good buddies all through the show!

I love you too....

Tony - easy...Maybe. A total PITA, perhaps. Usually the fluid leak juices up the hub-to-axle connection to allow a very easy hub removal. Other times... a horror show. Research the postings on RS about hub removal - both successes and gross failures.A lot depends on the type of puller used...... Bill

Tony - Leave it as-is!! It matches the tierod & hood stripe!!

Look for the missing 10MM socket - the 1/2" is probably nearby!!

Since you've never had this problem before, and now have leaky seals, this is probably the reason why your hubs are moving. After the seals are replaced, even if you don't add another setscrew, be sure to use a new Woodruff key and a new setscrew. I believe there is a torque recommendation of 28-32 ft.lbs.

@Qball, know that @ebinmaineIs in good hands here. 🙏

I had a number of cracks on a 42” RD but they were at the rear mounts. The welds have held up for years. Check for pulley runout and varying belt thickness, perhaps the cracking was caused by vibration from those. Be sure you hire a welder that can do thin metal right, someone that isn’t a professional might cause more problems.

The only thing that a lobster is afraid of is drawn butter...

A word of caution on adding a second retaining screw and nut. This is best done in a drill press or milling machine. Why?? To get the tapped hole centered and at 90 degrees to the original - and to be able to add a flat on the OD for the jamnut to seat. Not a place for a hand drill.... Do consider grinding a small flat on the axle where the new screw contacts it. The cup point WILL raise a burr (desired), but without the recess, hub removal in the future is much more difficult.

Gotta just about tear the whole deck apart to get those bugger off. The whole rotating assembly has to be unbolted from the deck shell. Make sure to time your blades correctly during reassembly. Any proper length set of belts will do. I think I have a pair of Daycos on mine right now.

I don’t need the $$ and don’t care if all 8 plows stay here forever.. but a guy asked if I had a 48” for sale. Said sure, why not let one go, struck a deal and he showed up a couple hours later for it IN THIS TRUCK ! That teeny-tiny red micro truck is mine

Air chisel, no bracing or beating with a hammer. This is the way, roll pin comes out in seconds.

pull the valve cover and shoot some Marvel Mystery Oil on the valve guides and let them soak a bit? A struck valve did come to mind as a possible cause.

@Achto did a real fine job widening some. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/80366-id-like-to-introduce-radpferd/?tab=comments#comment-788635