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Meet johnny cash, a one peice at a time tractor. First mock-up on its own wheels. Tons to do but it feels like progress.

I don’t need the $$ and don’t care if all 8 plows stay here forever.. but a guy asked if I had a 48” for sale. Said sure, why not let one go, struck a deal and he showed up a couple hours later for it IN THIS TRUCK ! That teeny-tiny red micro truck is mine

So a couple of things followed us home today! I got a Gravely walk behind tractor with a snow plow. And the bug thing I brought home was this Mid 80s Ford 1200 tractor! The tractor has 4 wheel drive 3 point hitch, rear pto, front pto, mower deck, snow plow, and a 2 cylinder Shibuara diesel engine. The tractor is a little taken apart right now the the previous owner said it started to make a noise and he took it apart but never got around to fixing it. The engine had no oil in it when we got there and didn’t spin over. It’s going to be a nice project!

@Sparky did you make sure that load was properly balanced and secured??? I am concerned @Pullstart's hauling guidelines weren't followed...

Floorboard and seat frame mocked up. Also the position of the motor and front axle mocked up. Nothing is welded in place just tacked or clamped.

Next stop the grocery store for a Qt of milk...and he will want to park close to the entrance

“Ugh!, what model is it? Well, it’s a ’77, ’78, ’79, ’81, 82. ... Wheel Horse!"

You are slipping @ebinmaine, You let that one get taken by @fourwheelhorseman.

Fender painted.

That will fit in well with the LOOOOOONG Truck thread going on here. Being that long it will need a LOT of room to turn it. Have you considered moving the front axle back some and the transaxle forward about 30 inches and running tandem rear axles? Would help out with maneuverability and look SOOOO KOOOOOOL!

Rattle paint then a sheet of rubber to help with vibration

I'm sure it's Redneck Approved. Looks like the mud flap bracket is holding it in place.

Adjustable brackets so you can adjust to the sweet spot https://www.surpluscenter.com/Truck-Trailer/Seats/Seat-Belts-Hardware/900-Pair-Adjustable-Seat-Slides-Black-Talon-900000BK-1-3550.axd

If it has an ammeter, check it out. They are known to short and could cause wiring to melt and start a fire. I would recommend replacing it anyways with a voltmeter, though wired differently but simple. Good find on that C160, such an awesome capable tractor.

I had a tractor short out on my kid at a plow day. It was in the middle of the field when magic smoke started pluming out. Luckily, the battery was on wing nuts and I could spin them off quick. I recall yelling at her to get away, then later reminding her she did nothing wrong, I was yelling for her safety if the battery blew.

You know EB, seat placement alone warrants you and BBT having your own fleets…

I've absolutely done whatever it takes to move my seats back 2 or 3 inches. I am..... "Not small". I've drilled the fender on ones that were already pretty rough. I've use 1.5" to 2" square drilled stock to mount to the fender then bolt the seat to that. These pics show what I've done on two different tractors. Note that the front of the seat is several inches back from the front of the fender pan.

I spent some time cleaning up my shop from months of "lay down n go" so I could have room to work on the dump truck build. I did a rough layout and next step is seating area. That will determine overall length and wheel base.

after much wheeling and dealing I was able to horse trade for a nice “ looking” C160 auto with hydro lift. It’s from 1976 according to the engine code and tractor serial number. Anyhow I even bartered for the fella to deliver it nearly 75 miles away. Anyhow, he sent videos of it running, he never tested the hydro transmission nor lift.. which I found odd. I honestly think he knew absolutely nothing about it. The tractor came without a battery and I noticed it had been rewired right off the bat, but it ran in the videos correct? Anyhow, I installed a battery immediately and upon doing so I smelled a familiar smell of wiring getting hot.. which prompted me to start feeling around the wrong for warmth.. well I found it and started to undo the battery, it took me a short time to do so, but in that short time the wiring at the switch and factory plug was ruined. Luckily for me I have an extra wiring harness for a 160. Anyhow, I also noticed a blown head gasket on the tractor. All fluids are clean, but low. So in short I got a neat tractor that will soon run… but it about burnt down my shop! lol I ordered an ignition switch for it already and will begin installing g the new harnes this week. I’ll also show pics later. Anyone else ever have issues with a bad wiring job?

Or you get the hyper-literal jerks like me. I once got into a fight with a parking officer for parking in a "green cars only" space. It was clearly meant to give premium parking to people with hybrids or the like "environmentally friendly" cars. I slapped my sea-green 5.4L Expedition in there, said "It's green, isn't it?" and walked away.

Great progress! Gonna need a loooonnnnng drive belt!

Now THAT'S how ya haul a plow!

Make sure yo have drained the transmission before you try pulling the seal Yours is hydro and there are few qts of fluid that will come running out when you pull the seal...

That is beautiful! I like the color choice on this project!

Ahhhh.... the story of my life......

Extremely unlikely, but if you can post pics of the two solenoids we can be sure. The most commonly seen solenoids on WHs has two “heavy” terminals (which are interchangeable) and two “light” terminals (which are interchangeable). So if the only difference is that the battery cable and starter cable are on different “heavy” terminals, no issue. It the only difference is that the wire to the clutch pedal interlock and the wire to ground are on different “light” terminals, no issue.

Just giving you a boost, there 953!

The solenoid is just a switch. It is operated by an electrical input which closes a pair of heavy duty contacts. The position of the wire to the battery can be on either side. A wire from the side that the battery is connected to will go to the amp meter (which I would get rid of) and then on to the ignition switch "B" terminal. I would strongly recommend installing a 30 Amp fuse at the point that this wire exits the solenoid to protect your wiring. A volt meter can be used in place of the amp meter by simply attaching it to the wire that feeds the light switch.

I think you mentioned this once before and I adopted the idea and then added a rubber strip to the cross-bar as well

One of the more entertaining aspects of watching my wife try to operate the 855.

I'm not 100% sure, but it sounds like you are talking about a core exchange. We remove the original, put in a new or reman assembly, then send the failed one back to be rebuilt and resold. There is often a deposit on the new part called a core charge which is 100% refundable when the failed unit is returned as an incentive to not just scrap a part that could be rebuilt and returned to service. I just had to go through this with my pastor. The transmission in his wife's van is going out, and to replace the transmission, along with a few other key parts that should be done at that mileage if the tranny is out already anyway, is going to be about $7000. On the other hand, the body is so clean, even underneath, that you'd think the thing just rolled off the show room floor, they love the vehicle, and really need the seating capacity because they are up to about 12 grandkids now, and they can't even touch something similar for less than $28,000. He asked me if it was worth fixing, or if they should just look for another vehicle. I crawled under it, looked around at the points most likely to rot out, saw how clean it was and told him to just fix the van.

Hope it doesn’t turn out to be a money pit. Good luck!

Rattle can paint

Shipping is a killer.

Frankly, I’d save yourself the trouble. WH slides have only less than 3” of usable movement and with the stock mounting, it moves the seat rearward only less than an inch while helping the more compact folks with two inches of forward movement. Go on the ‘Bay and look for ones off a Simplicity Sovereign which have nealy 7” of usable movement or else ... When mounting, pay attention to where the seat will land in its forewardmost position. One that I put on interfered with the console motion control going fully in reverse with the seat moved fully forward--had to take it apart and re-do it. Also recognize that shifting the operator weight back past the rear axle changes the balance of the machine.

Please note that LiFePo4 and Lipo batteries are very different. LiFePo4 are generally safe, but can't be charged below freezing, unless they have a heater. Lipo tend to become spicy pillows. Lithium Titanate are nearly indestructible, -22F to 130F, and a 6 cell pack has a max charge voltage of 16v, making them unlikely to die from overcharge. Lead-acid batteries are "tolerant" to overcharge from a funky charging system, in that they'll sit there and boil. Any lithium battery I'd trust will have a BMS to keep the cells balanced and to prevent over/undercharge. Unfortunately, they do that by essentially disconnecting the battery. The charging system might jump from 14.8v to 22v without at least the small load from gently overcharging a lead-acid battery. I looked into duplicating a military transient voltage regulator, it used a big transistor and a zenier diode to clamp brief spikes, and the transistor could handle enough to pop the breaker if it continued. At the moment, my 520h has a giant group 65 AGM sitting on a shelf I made from a hitch weight frame. It's temporarily wired in with 2awg cables to the stock battery compartment. Today was the first time I've run it since last year, now that the deck works. Lets just say it didn't have any problem cranking.

You can use 7/16”-20 x 1.5” long bolts, and 7/16” automotive lug nuts of your choice too.

That. Is. Awesome.

Thanks Eric, they are 29x12.50-15 bkt, and 18x8.50-8 Hartford, all 6 ply. I've been gathering parts for a few years, gotta say up front it's not a 195, but I've sourced as much as I could from one Lincoln had, and a few other sources. Stretched a frame 7", 4 in front, 3 in back, based on the length of the motion rod so i was pretty happy that the 195 stuff and the hoodstand bolted together. Front axle is 195 with 520 spindles, i cut down a deere ram, and plan on using a charlynn valve from a roper. Originally planned on using a K582, but I've come up with a magnum 20 instead. I plan on eventually moving my loader to this. Edit: The rear fender is one that adams94 reproduces, it's a work of art.

I've had issues with magneto K90s in the past and the point gap made a HUGE difference. If you have them set at 0.020 close them to 0.018, possibly more. One engine would weak spark with the plug out, not spark with the plug installed. Intermittent good spark at times but would not run. The points ended up at 0.016 and finally got it her fired up.

Official $70 skids

It does. She's right around "half a Bear" in size. On the rare occasion she moves one of my rigs she just sets forward on the edge of the seat.

Colleen stopped by for my birthday party

The basic Tremclad silver aluminum sprayed on gives me the colour I was looking for. When you spray clear over it, you get a pretty good shine too. So far only the foot rests have been cleared as I want the paint to be well dried before applying it.

OK, here is an update. I asked the boat dealer to take a look at the engine web I dropped the boat off for storage last fall. This spring when I picked the boat up, they told me they could not replicate the issue. Translation - they didn't do any troubleshooting, since the engine runs and starts fine once warmed up. While prepping the boat for this year, I installed new plugs, and fuel filter. It still had difficulty with a cold start, needing a couple of shots of carb cleaner to get it going. This was happening on alcohol free gas doped with Sea Foam at 8oz per 5 gallons. Out of desperation, I added a 1/4 cup of ATF to about 2 gallons of gas in the boat. For several days, I did a cold start on the engine and let it warm up at idle, figuring this was the best way of getting the doped gas through the idle and enrichment circuits with the hope that it would clean them out. It seems to have worked. I no longer need a shot of carb cleaner to get the engine started. It usually stalls a couple of times on a cold start before it settles into a steady idle. Even better, the engine can sit unused for 10 days or 2 weeks and still starts with minimal fuss and no carb cleaner. Still trying to decide if I want to get a spare carb. I'd install the spare as part of the spring prep, then clean and rebuild carb I removed to be ready for installation at the start of the next boating season.

I like long trucks

Grass mulch size.

https://www.theautopian.com/the-longfoot-is-a-stretched-pickup-that-chevrolet-never-offered-from-the-factory/