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This one is getting close now to being done. I have all the seals for the rear tranny. I bought this one from Sparky AKA Mike. He bought it at the big show. This tractor was very clean first one I had in a [long wile] and it is pretty much all original. So that is why I am going thru it. It had a vacuum pump being a 66 I switch it to a lever action. I have a little more cleaning in the front and put it back together. Also I got lucky and pick up the small cart for the shows. Have to clean up and pint it flat red or they call it stain red to match the tractor. Have a good ay all and enjoy the ride.

It’s a pickanicka BooBoo

That's what she... Nevermind.

Got released for normal activities today. I have 3 weeks before surgery to make some progress. Weekend plans are shop time!

Anyway, @formariz in interested in restoring it so I’ll be posting it off to him!

Got @WheelHorse_Kid to mow my yard. A week on vacation and parts of it were like a hay field. I fired up my trusty 753 and pulled the lawn sweeper around on the front to get rid of the clippings. I had just dumped it and stopped to look at a potential project with Alex. Couldn’t resist snapping a picture. Good old trusty 753 ran perfect the whole time I swept but left me stranded in the back 40 when it first wouldn’t restart and second when it finally did it died on the way back in. Was acting like a fuel issue. It’s only sat for a couple weeks but I bet it’s already gummed up.

This box was a “Here take this -- please, You can fix it up and find a use for it!” from a friend. I have no idea at all about its original purpose. Anyone here recognize it? The lid opens and the sides fold out. There is a photo tripod style threaded socket in the bottom.

The MRI showed my treatments had a satisfactory outcome. The oncologist said he was hoping for a 20% reduction of the tumor and the final results was nearly 50% . Cancer no longer in lymph nodes or prostate. The surgeon said the reduction allows for robotic surgery which will be faster recovery. Of course once surgery starts it could change. Surgery is scheduled for August 26.

@squonk could use something like that for all the chemicals he has to use for toe fungus and to help with his green skin when he is out among normal people. It is National mess with Squonk Day !

Hmmm. Have to head on down to the pub for a congratulatory pint!

Today was save the MRI suite day. They got a call when I was on an energy zoom meeting that water was coming out of the ceiling by the control (computers) room. I could hear conversations in the background. "I think it's a pipe . "I can't see where it goes" ect. This suite was built by putting 10 lbs. of crap into a 2lb. hole. My meeting got done and the guys were still down there trying to figure out what was happening. I haven't been up in this ceiling in years but as I was walking down there it all came back. There was an Liebert AC unit in the ceiling dripping I knew where the condensate drain was but what I didn't know was they added a wall and basically buried it. We had to break some safety rules on the ladder to get at it. Then I remembered the return air can be an issue so up another ladder I went and yanked out the plugged filter. Soon as I did that the warm air hit the frozen coil and the water really started dripping. Then I went into another room and popped a tile out of the ceiling and removed an access door to get at the lead grid that surrounds the MRI machine room and cleaned the crap off the grid that passes thru the return duct. I had installed MRI safe filter racks in the room years ago but they removed them when a new machine went in and tossed them. Now I gotta order them again and they ain't cheep.

Yep, we have TWO like that and I believe it is “as designed". I’ve trained myself to think of the lever as working a REAR implement--pull back to lower the rear and push forward to raise it. Switching the hoses at either the valve end or the cylinder end will do what you need. There is probably barely enough slack in the hoses to do it at the valve, but you would need at least one new hose to do it at the cylinder.

I had an automated call from (supposedly) my insurance company the other day. Automated voicecasks me if I'm me, yup I'm me. OK it says, I'll transfer you to an agent. Another automaton comes on line asking if I'm me, also saying this is being recorded. Next it asks for my birthday. NOPE! Hopefully while the line was still recording, I said I won't give that information to an automated call and then hung up. What did I do today? Started a plumbing project . Several days ago the drain on the water softener and washing machine go into slowed to a drip, allowing the water to back up onto the basement floor. That drain goes into a dry well. Hopefully just a clog, I tell myself. Today I moved the washing machine and removed a piece of cupboard paneling to get to the drain - which turned out to be a kludged mess. Finally got to the 3" line going out to the dry well. Ran my manual snake into it, didn't feel anything. Snake came back clean. Got the garden hose and nozzle and ran it into the drain as a 'jet rod'. Went in about 20 feet before hitting anything - came out clean. No backwash, either. I expect that this means that the pipe is clean, and the issue is with the dry well. Bad news, as that solution means a large excitation in the back yard. At this point, my wife and I took the pontoon out into the lake, threw the anchor overboard and followed it to float around in the lake for a while. On the good end of things, the Honda 20 horse engine on the pontoon, which hasn't run for 10 days or a week, started without needing a shot of carb cleaner. It stalled a couple of times, but settled into a smooth idle. It would appear that the heavy dosage of Sea Foam and ATF is getting some crud out of the enrichment and idle circuits.

Mike, thank you so much for posting this link. We have so many people on here who seem to use standard NEC amperage ratings for multiple conductors in a raceway and try to say the is the most that a wire can safely carry. Most wires on our tractors aren't over two or three feet long and are in free air.

You have put your finger on it. A long crank will use a larger percentage of this battery’s capacity. LiPo lifecycle is measured in discharge cycles so 20 starts that use 20% of the capacity equals 4 full discharge cycles. Check the specs for total life cycles to see where that leaves you. Also, LiPo charging is a bit esoteric so be sure that the input requirements (voltage range and amperage) for your battery choice can be met by the charging capability of the tractor. A fail here can prematurely kill the battery. Lastly, make sure the circuitry for safely controlling the charging is built into the battery and is NOT expected from the charger--this is a critical safety concern since incorrect charging can cause a LiPo to combust and burn nearly uncontrollably.

What did you sign for when you bought the place? Perhaps you would be grandfathered in and any new "rules" can be ignored. Any chance you can have a boat or RV in the backyard, they make dandy storage units. A single stage snowblower should do just fine and they are easier to move and store. A 42" RD recycler mower should take care of the leaves, just be sure to return any leaves that belong to the neighbor. Always look up in your storage shed and see if things can be hoisted up making that area do double duty. To get maximum efficiency from a Wheel Horse be sure to remove the muffler and only run it in the cool very early morning hours.

Problem Solved!!!

Fender primed top and bottom. Left side cover painted. Right side cover painted. It is very hot and humid here right now and rains a lot so I am getting this done when I can.

Cables are very important. What size wire did you use? Std. Garden tractor cables are 6 ga. can handle 250-300 amps. I always upsize and use 4 ga. A big CCA battery will give lot's of reserve. But unless your charging system quits, engine cranks a lot before starting or you run 4000 lights all that reserve just goes along for the ride. That 575 CCA battery can only push so much through the available wiring before something melts. https://jascoautomotive.com/automotive-wire-amperage-capacity-chart/ I use 250-300 CCA batteries from Wal Mart and only have had 1 premature failure supplying 4-5 tractors with batteries. I change them out every 3 years and keep 1 old battery kicking around for my engine stand or other testing.

This is the reason why I switched over to using car batteries. There's a very common group number that's used in bunches of foreign vehicles which will fit in some of the older battery carriers if a small wedge of material is placed on the long side. I believe it's group 51 or 51r. Either will work depending on cables. Or alternatively, a battery hold down could be installed by drilling two holes in the existing battery tray. That's what I did on the Tecumsehorse I've been working on lately.

Switch could be bad...also someone may have connected the coil wire to the ACC terminal or R terminal of the switch...instead of the I terminal

?

I'll second that having bought the cheap set first. When I bent that almost immediately, I went right back on the fleeebay and ordered a vintage USA 🇺🇸 made set.

I have been kicking the idea of some extra security now that I'm buying anew car. I looked at pop up steel posts, too much Messing around and she would definitely drive into it, even going forwards! I looked at several ways to beef up the driveway gate lock, which is just a padlock on the latch. Playing with odds and ends ofmetal and a shipping container lock I fabricated a hasp and staple, on steroids. At present it's just bolted in place but tomorrow I will fire up the stick welder and make it permanent. I even made a turned boss to keep the lock on to save losing it. Not a bad afternoons work and looking at the prices of some of the stuff on offer I've saved myself a bit of cash too.

I agree with Pete on the bracing to allow for a solid hit with a 3 LB Hammer. DO buy a decent set of Roll Pin Punches, not some "soft" look-alike made of inferior (Chinesuim) material...

Those lines have been off the valve unless you cleaned them. The sticker shows the correct movement. Swap them (PITA) or just deal with it.

Nice!! Just watch out for that pesky backwards pivpting seat latch!! If not latched properly, let out the clutch and you go over backwards while the tractor goes off on its own .... There must be some reason they discontinued using them after 3 or so years.....

What, you have something against honest-to-goodness baling wire solutions? Ya gotta admire the creativity there!

Bolt length is measured from the underside of the head. Shoulder bolt length is from the under side of the head to the shoulder. You probably have 1.5 or 1.75" long shoulder bolts.

Swap the hoses at the cylinder. Likely had the seals replaced and the PO left it as it was. I've had one like that as well.

You tighten with it as shown and to loosen you have to turn it over.

Today I spent most of the day undoing the efforts of a would-be scammer who was attempting to empty my IRA and investment accounts. The text alert communication from the fraudmeister seemed authentic at first regarding an unauthorized withdrawal attempt. The text was followed by a phone call and an email. This person must have had inside knowledge of the financial institution because she had my phone number, account numbers and email address. If I had a "Smart-phone" rather than my trusty flip phone she might have gotten away with it. She wanted to have me respond to a text while she was talking to me but I was not able to do this on my phone. At this point she became agitated and a bit unprofessional and I asked to speak to her supervisor, another woman came on the line and attempted to have me log onto a site that sounded like it was legitimate but the log-in procedure was not what I am accustom to so I terminated the conversation and called the brokerage's fraud line. They confirmed that it was a scam and froze all of my accounts and set up new account numbers for all of them. I asked if they had been having a lot of these but he said he 'couldn't comment on that'. Lesson learned, no mater how realistic the communication seems we need to authenticate it. I was almost had, don't let it happen to you, please.

I recently had the opportunity to add a 1979 C-141 to my small herd. This appears to have lived a fairly comfortable life as it doesn’t appear to have been rode hard and put up wet like so many others have been. It appears also that the previous owner or owners kept it inside and out of the elements for the most part. Looking it over I don’t see a lot of things that have been “tinkered” with. It just seems “very original”. There are a couple little things that need some love and attention but for the most part, all is good. Now for the part that I just don’t understand. The hydraulic lift lever acts in reverse order. When you push the lever forward the lift should go down. When you pull the lever rearward the lift should raise up. NOT SO on this one. Just the opposite. Forward is down and rearward is up. I checked the routing of the four hoses and all are correct as far as the schematics show me. At first I figured that a couple hoses were reversed but that doesn’t seem to be the case. What else could be the cause of this? As I said before, it doesn’t look like anyone has been messing around in there, but you never really know.

Eric, If you have a single cylinder, let the engine idle and press the button until you see the highest reading. Depending on your idle setting it’s going to be north or south of at a 1000 RPM. The smallest number would be for 8 cylinders. The largest number for 1 cylinder. Once set take the engine to full throttle and if set correctly should be north of 3000, my governor is set at 3350 RPM as an example. Hope this helps! Steve

That's her problem. But I'm spoiled. The guys here on Redsquare know full well how much my woman does around the acreage and workshop. She's..... unusual..... to say the least.

I have run into the bad switch thing a time or two and my GT14 is like that now, no spark until you let go of switch. You should check and make sure switch is wired correctly first though.

I don't pay attention to amp hrs. on cranking batteries. I look at reserve amps. If you're cranking more than 5 minutes on an engine you have bigger issues you need to address. I put an Optima glass mat battery in a 83 Honda motorcycle. I read that there may be a charging issue. But I never had a problem. A 230 CCA battery will start any WH outside of a D250. Put a 300 in it and forget about it.

Slots are too small for canvases on wood frames, but for small heavy paper panels used for pastel or acrylic I could see it. The larger holes would be paint holders. No provision for a palette or a way to hold the in-progress work (like an easel), though, so maybe this is an adjunct to some other equipment the artist/photographer/etcher would carry--the portable taboret?

@formariz, in a pm, suggested it held plates and chemicals for a plate camera or for copper plate etching. I’m leaning that way. Bigger holes for little jars of chemical smaller holes for some sort of tool or swabs.

Lithium anything is a no-go for now because of the charging capabilities required. @Handy Don and maybe someone else we're talking about it recently... This is the way to go. If you don't use the machine for a month or so or if the temperature goes above 90° or below 32⁰ you definitely want to have a trickle charger on it.

I'm guessing artist caddy. Holes for paints brushes etc. and slots for holding new and finished canvass...?

That thought was in the back of my mind, and he might be able to do that, but then I figured maybe my little label maker might be able to do the job good enough for who it’s for.

I'm thinking a case for the supplies that photographers used for the wet plate process.

Camera case jumps out at me.

The re-training is possible. On one of ours, I’ve added a joystick control for two additional hydro circuits at the front while leaving the original system intact. The joystick is correct (forward for down). Definitely had to develop muscle memory. There IS another solution, though! A couple of models had a hydro control lever that stuck out the left side (mirroring the PTO engage lever on the right). Using that lever, the mechanical linkage to the valve was reversed and it was "push down, pull lift.” I might have some of those parts around.

Note - The original coil for your engine part #298316 is superseded by part #397358. The new part number is for a solid state coil, this coil will not require points. No need to remove the points from your engine, just cut the wire off that goes to your points. The old points can stay where they are and plug the oil hole. The solid state coil is a much better unit.

Lol! As far as a baling wire fix goes it is well done. If I can find any acoustic ceiling wire here I’ll be swapping it out though.

Used on the rear axle bracket to take up the excess play in the assembly (#45)

The metric end sits right on top of all your 10 mm sockets in your tool box... that is why you can never find them...

That plow is Minty! I was gifted a plow by @buckrancher back when I had Sqonkfest 2014. It was gnarly. @AMC RULES had tp practically stand on it and beat , banged and ground on it to make it usable!