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This one is getting close now to being done. I have all the seals for the rear tranny. I bought this one from Sparky AKA Mike. He bought it at the big show. This tractor was very clean first one I had in a [long wile] and it is pretty much all original. So that is why I am going thru it. It had a vacuum pump being a 66 I switch it to a lever action. I have a little more cleaning in the front and put it back together. Also I got lucky and pick up the small cart for the shows. Have to clean up and pint it flat red or they call it stain red to match the tractor. Have a good ay all and enjoy the ride.

It’s a pickanicka BooBoo

That's what she... Nevermind.

Got released for normal activities today. I have 3 weeks before surgery to make some progress. Weekend plans are shop time!

Anyway, @formariz in interested in restoring it so I’ll be posting it off to him!

Got @WheelHorse_Kid to mow my yard. A week on vacation and parts of it were like a hay field. I fired up my trusty 753 and pulled the lawn sweeper around on the front to get rid of the clippings. I had just dumped it and stopped to look at a potential project with Alex. Couldn’t resist snapping a picture. Good old trusty 753 ran perfect the whole time I swept but left me stranded in the back 40 when it first wouldn’t restart and second when it finally did it died on the way back in. Was acting like a fuel issue. It’s only sat for a couple weeks but I bet it’s already gummed up.

This box was a “Here take this -- please, You can fix it up and find a use for it!” from a friend. I have no idea at all about its original purpose. Anyone here recognize it? The lid opens and the sides fold out. There is a photo tripod style threaded socket in the bottom.

The MRI showed my treatments had a satisfactory outcome. The oncologist said he was hoping for a 20% reduction of the tumor and the final results was nearly 50% . Cancer no longer in lymph nodes or prostate. The surgeon said the reduction allows for robotic surgery which will be faster recovery. Of course once surgery starts it could change. Surgery is scheduled for August 26.

@squonk could use something like that for all the chemicals he has to use for toe fungus and to help with his green skin when he is out among normal people. It is National mess with Squonk Day !

Hmmm. Have to head on down to the pub for a congratulatory pint!

Today was save the MRI suite day. They got a call when I was on an energy zoom meeting that water was coming out of the ceiling by the control (computers) room. I could hear conversations in the background. "I think it's a pipe . "I can't see where it goes" ect. This suite was built by putting 10 lbs. of crap into a 2lb. hole. My meeting got done and the guys were still down there trying to figure out what was happening. I haven't been up in this ceiling in years but as I was walking down there it all came back. There was an Liebert AC unit in the ceiling dripping I knew where the condensate drain was but what I didn't know was they added a wall and basically buried it. We had to break some safety rules on the ladder to get at it. Then I remembered the return air can be an issue so up another ladder I went and yanked out the plugged filter. Soon as I did that the warm air hit the frozen coil and the water really started dripping. Then I went into another room and popped a tile out of the ceiling and removed an access door to get at the lead grid that surrounds the MRI machine room and cleaned the crap off the grid that passes thru the return duct. I had installed MRI safe filter racks in the room years ago but they removed them when a new machine went in and tossed them. Now I gotta order them again and they ain't cheep.

Yep, we have TWO like that and I believe it is “as designed". I’ve trained myself to think of the lever as working a REAR implement--pull back to lower the rear and push forward to raise it. Switching the hoses at either the valve end or the cylinder end will do what you need. There is probably barely enough slack in the hoses to do it at the valve, but you would need at least one new hose to do it at the cylinder.

I had an automated call from (supposedly) my insurance company the other day. Automated voicecasks me if I'm me, yup I'm me. OK it says, I'll transfer you to an agent. Another automaton comes on line asking if I'm me, also saying this is being recorded. Next it asks for my birthday. NOPE! Hopefully while the line was still recording, I said I won't give that information to an automated call and then hung up. What did I do today? Started a plumbing project . Several days ago the drain on the water softener and washing machine go into slowed to a drip, allowing the water to back up onto the basement floor. That drain goes into a dry well. Hopefully just a clog, I tell myself. Today I moved the washing machine and removed a piece of cupboard paneling to get to the drain - which turned out to be a kludged mess. Finally got to the 3" line going out to the dry well. Ran my manual snake into it, didn't feel anything. Snake came back clean. Got the garden hose and nozzle and ran it into the drain as a 'jet rod'. Went in about 20 feet before hitting anything - came out clean. No backwash, either. I expect that this means that the pipe is clean, and the issue is with the dry well. Bad news, as that solution means a large excitation in the back yard. At this point, my wife and I took the pontoon out into the lake, threw the anchor overboard and followed it to float around in the lake for a while. On the good end of things, the Honda 20 horse engine on the pontoon, which hasn't run for 10 days or a week, started without needing a shot of carb cleaner. It stalled a couple of times, but settled into a smooth idle. It would appear that the heavy dosage of Sea Foam and ATF is getting some crud out of the enrichment and idle circuits.

Mike, thank you so much for posting this link. We have so many people on here who seem to use standard NEC amperage ratings for multiple conductors in a raceway and try to say the is the most that a wire can safely carry. Most wires on our tractors aren't over two or three feet long and are in free air.

You have put your finger on it. A long crank will use a larger percentage of this battery’s capacity. LiPo lifecycle is measured in discharge cycles so 20 starts that use 20% of the capacity equals 4 full discharge cycles. Check the specs for total life cycles to see where that leaves you. Also, LiPo charging is a bit esoteric so be sure that the input requirements (voltage range and amperage) for your battery choice can be met by the charging capability of the tractor. A fail here can prematurely kill the battery. Lastly, make sure the circuitry for safely controlling the charging is built into the battery and is NOT expected from the charger--this is a critical safety concern since incorrect charging can cause a LiPo to combust and burn nearly uncontrollably.

What did you sign for when you bought the place? Perhaps you would be grandfathered in and any new "rules" can be ignored. Any chance you can have a boat or RV in the backyard, they make dandy storage units. A single stage snowblower should do just fine and they are easier to move and store. A 42" RD recycler mower should take care of the leaves, just be sure to return any leaves that belong to the neighbor. Always look up in your storage shed and see if things can be hoisted up making that area do double duty. To get maximum efficiency from a Wheel Horse be sure to remove the muffler and only run it in the cool very early morning hours.

Problem Solved!!!

Fender primed top and bottom. Left side cover painted. Right side cover painted. It is very hot and humid here right now and rains a lot so I am getting this done when I can.

Cables are very important. What size wire did you use? Std. Garden tractor cables are 6 ga. can handle 250-300 amps. I always upsize and use 4 ga. A big CCA battery will give lot's of reserve. But unless your charging system quits, engine cranks a lot before starting or you run 4000 lights all that reserve just goes along for the ride. That 575 CCA battery can only push so much through the available wiring before something melts. https://jascoautomotive.com/automotive-wire-amperage-capacity-chart/ I use 250-300 CCA batteries from Wal Mart and only have had 1 premature failure supplying 4-5 tractors with batteries. I change them out every 3 years and keep 1 old battery kicking around for my engine stand or other testing.

This is the reason why I switched over to using car batteries. There's a very common group number that's used in bunches of foreign vehicles which will fit in some of the older battery carriers if a small wedge of material is placed on the long side. I believe it's group 51 or 51r. Either will work depending on cables. Or alternatively, a battery hold down could be installed by drilling two holes in the existing battery tray. That's what I did on the Tecumsehorse I've been working on lately.

Switch could be bad...also someone may have connected the coil wire to the ACC terminal or R terminal of the switch...instead of the I terminal

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I'll second that having bought the cheap set first. When I bent that almost immediately, I went right back on the fleeebay and ordered a vintage USA 🇺🇸 made set.

I have been kicking the idea of some extra security now that I'm buying anew car. I looked at pop up steel posts, too much Messing around and she would definitely drive into it, even going forwards! I looked at several ways to beef up the driveway gate lock, which is just a padlock on the latch. Playing with odds and ends ofmetal and a shipping container lock I fabricated a hasp and staple, on steroids. At present it's just bolted in place but tomorrow I will fire up the stick welder and make it permanent. I even made a turned boss to keep the lock on to save losing it. Not a bad afternoons work and looking at the prices of some of the stuff on offer I've saved myself a bit of cash too.

I agree with Pete on the bracing to allow for a solid hit with a 3 LB Hammer. DO buy a decent set of Roll Pin Punches, not some "soft" look-alike made of inferior (Chinesuim) material...

Those lines have been off the valve unless you cleaned them. The sticker shows the correct movement. Swap them (PITA) or just deal with it.

Nice!! Just watch out for that pesky backwards pivpting seat latch!! If not latched properly, let out the clutch and you go over backwards while the tractor goes off on its own .... There must be some reason they discontinued using them after 3 or so years.....

What, you have something against honest-to-goodness baling wire solutions? Ya gotta admire the creativity there!

Bolt length is measured from the underside of the head. Shoulder bolt length is from the under side of the head to the shoulder. You probably have 1.5 or 1.75" long shoulder bolts.

Swap the hoses at the cylinder. Likely had the seals replaced and the PO left it as it was. I've had one like that as well.

You tighten with it as shown and to loosen you have to turn it over.

Today I spent most of the day undoing the efforts of a would-be scammer who was attempting to empty my IRA and investment accounts. The text alert communication from the fraudmeister seemed authentic at first regarding an unauthorized withdrawal attempt. The text was followed by a phone call and an email. This person must have had inside knowledge of the financial institution because she had my phone number, account numbers and email address. If I had a "Smart-phone" rather than my trusty flip phone she might have gotten away with it. She wanted to have me respond to a text while she was talking to me but I was not able to do this on my phone. At this point she became agitated and a bit unprofessional and I asked to speak to her supervisor, another woman came on the line and attempted to have me log onto a site that sounded like it was legitimate but the log-in procedure was not what I am accustom to so I terminated the conversation and called the brokerage's fraud line. They confirmed that it was a scam and froze all of my accounts and set up new account numbers for all of them. I asked if they had been having a lot of these but he said he 'couldn't comment on that'. Lesson learned, no mater how realistic the communication seems we need to authenticate it. I was almost had, don't let it happen to you, please.

I recently purchased a 75 c100. It has the rear discharge 36 inch deck. Belt was shredded when I got it. Trying to find the part numbers for the mower and tractor belts. I’m doing some digging and will probably eventually come across them. I provided a picture of the deck. Thanks

That's her problem. But I'm spoiled. The guys here on Redsquare know full well how much my woman does around the acreage and workshop. She's..... unusual..... to say the least.

Mower Drive belt 102741 (1/2" x 96.6") for B-Series & C-Series tractors with 45-1/2" wheelbase (Gates replacement BladeRunner 6638BR 17/32" x 96.75") Mower Spindle belt 8411 (1/2" x 76.94") Transmission drive belt 78-7100 replaced by 7473 - HB x 81.9" or 5/8" x 81.9"

I have run into the bad switch thing a time or two and my GT14 is like that now, no spark until you let go of switch. You should check and make sure switch is wired correctly first though.

Slots are too small for canvases on wood frames, but for small heavy paper panels used for pastel or acrylic I could see it. The larger holes would be paint holders. No provision for a palette or a way to hold the in-progress work (like an easel), though, so maybe this is an adjunct to some other equipment the artist/photographer/etcher would carry--the portable taboret?

That thought was in the back of my mind, and he might be able to do that, but then I figured maybe my little label maker might be able to do the job good enough for who it’s for.

Much too clean to have had an industrial application. The holes on the left do not look large enough for camera lenses Not sure what the the smaller ones on the right could hold. Whatever4 it was used for it doesn't appear to have been used very much, looks great.

I'm thinking a case for the supplies that photographers used for the wet plate process.

Camera case jumps out at me.

One of the first things I checked. I had just put new fuel gauge caps on both rear tankers. I did open it up with no improvement.

Been there and have the t-shirt lol....

Yes,I cleaned them, or attempted to. Looks like I got a little more cleaning to do. I will probably just deal with it because swapping them doesn’t look like a pleasant thing. I guess now I have ONE like that and will need some retraining!!!

Lol! As far as a baling wire fix goes it is well done. If I can find any acoustic ceiling wire here I’ll be swapping it out though.

Yup - the coil mount is slotted - use a business card - right around .020 thick for most - to set an equal gap between the laminations and the flywheel.....

Welcome back! This is correct. The side that looks like it doesn't have any bolts is actually bolted from the bottom. Through the frame up into the engine. When a 416 has a single cylinder Kohler it's likely built around 1985, 6, 7. That's a transition period for pulling/pushing the choke from two different directions. It would appear that someone has installed an aftermarket carburetor which is incorrect. You can try to rebuild that aftermarket carburetor and live with the choke knob or try to procure the correct carb. I personally will no longer run aftermarket carburetors on Big Blocks having seen several that were bad. Other folks on this site have had better luck.

The metric end sits right on top of all your 10 mm sockets in your tool box... that is why you can never find them...

That plow is Minty! I was gifted a plow by @buckrancher back when I had Sqonkfest 2014. It was gnarly. @AMC RULES had tp practically stand on it and beat , banged and ground on it to make it usable!

I did some touch up painting on the 312, added foot rest treads, new tie rods and reupholster the seat using the method I learned from @Sparky. I also sandblasted a couple of pieces and painted them and just wire brushed and painted another.