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The mix of Danish tines on my Brinly Cultivator make this attachment a great one! Six or seven 32 inch garden rows can be cleaned out in 15 minutes or less! I have three 19 pound special block weights that can ride on the cultivator to obtain a good cut ! The RJ photo shows the weights o. The cultivator.

Here’s two pictures I took last Sunday, just getting around to posting them now!

Just installed this engine today…

Just an old 414-8, very well used and still going strong. IMG_2354.mov

I picked up this C120 "special" with tecumseh from @RandyLittrell and gave it new life with a magnum 12. It didn't need much other than all new electrical (even without engine swap) new battery box and tubes in front tires. I did replace a few other items along in the process! Oh and the slot hitch I left stay...it moves with enough hitting with a hammer to be out of the way..... Greasy Pete might like the deck being treated in the background!

Picked 3 engines yesterday. K161 from a 753, a K 90 and another K 161 from a 701 complete with double pulleys and belt guard.

Day early.

Dried to the touch in less than 1hr. then buffed to a high gloss the next day.

Mods, this applies to both engine and gear oils so I wasn't sure where to place it. Feel free to move the post. Interesting video. Basically what this whole thing comes down to is that no matter what the additive package is, the Anti-foaming Additives don't stay in suspension in any oil forever. Foam = air. Air doesn't lubricate. THAT'S the reason why NOT to use old oil. Towards the end he indicates that an oil over 3 to 5 years old really shouldn't be used in an application you care about. Recycle it as you would a used oil. It'll be re refined.

Been working on this deck on and off for a while. I’ve used this deck on a 310-8 for about 12 years. Given to me from my Dad. wish I had a picture of the front edge of the deck before I fixed it. That would have shown the chunks missing from hitting tree roots and stuff. Sand blasting the bottom AFTER I repaired the missing chunks and I welded in a 1/2” bar all along the front and in the chute opening for rigidity (using my new awesome welder). Used metal etch and applied 4 coats of POR 15. Made a mulch cover for the chute opening. Got some Gator mulching blades (I may go with a different set of blades later on) Put the deck on and it’s ready to go again. I ordered a new 6-sided belt and awaiting its arrival. Those Gator blades actually ride about 1/16” of an inch below the bottom of the deck. I saw another set of blades without the downward bend in them that I’ll maybe switch to, but I’m going to see how this works. The only issue I’ve ever had with this deck is the flex around the chute when it hits an immovable object 😂. Hence the reinforcement upgrades! As far as I know, it was all original when I got it and my Dad never had issues with this deck either.

Here is a Side Shot of a 108-5 on its side.

I nominate @rjg854 for the best Side shot post to Date. Nice going Randy

550 suburban repowered with predator motor. Still have the original electric start 5.5hp lauson but the block is broke where the exhaust comes out of it, it was still running when swapped it for a 5hp briggs. Wore it for 25+ yrs., now has the predator... I guess it will out last me this time...

So today is the day I start the Magnun-Magnum swap. Bought a non-running/condition unknown 414 with a Mag14. After quite a few hours and some parts I finally have it running good and it seems to be trusty. Carb has been off and on and cleaned and cleaned…3amp charging system was “dead” so swapped in the HD 15amp setup. New head gasket and ignition etc…you guys know the drill. I bought this as a replacement engine for the Magnum 10 in my GT-1600 plow rig. The 10 is still good but I was thinking in a few years it might be time for an upgrade/repower…and I happened to stumble upon the 414 a few years too soon ! Pretty straightforward swap, shouldn’t require any wiring or fabrication or drilling of the frame

Done!! All installed and running! A 16 Magnum was my dream motor, would have matched the hood decals . But this 14 will be just fine.

Look at all that room in the shop! You even have room for my chair!! I'll be right over!

But that stuff just has to be good enough to use in the ex-wife's car, right??

Just found this picture when I bought it

As @ebinmaine said the 103-990 ignition switch an a solenoid is the way to go. This wiring diagram will do the trick for you. Your ignition coil should have an internal resistor. The voltage regulator be sure to use one with a large heat-sink rather than the ones used on Magnum engines. Here is an example of the type rectifier/regulator you should use. https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AKH6001Rectifier-Regulator-Engines/dp/B019DHPM44/ref=asc_df_B019DHPM44/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9372373433147764985&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010285&hvtargid=pla-2281435179258&psc=1&mcid=cdb6b34f729d3c11be13aedd2129e9ac&hvocijid=9372373433147764985-B019DHPM44-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1 If you are uncertain about anything please ask, we are here to help.

@SylvanLakeWH The question is will that horse get along with your black hoods? 🤣

Great... now there are no 8 speeds or C-160's east of the Mississippi...!!!

Damn was this deck ready for a thorough cleaning!

Final mowing with this tractor before it gets dismantled. Removed the 36RD for a scraping and cleaning underneath.

Well finally finished the most expensive $20 garden tractor I've bought lol. Not perfect but not trying cause I use it. I took a picture of the stoppers on the deck. They are the rubber stoppers on hoods of Jeeps just in case someone else needs some on their Wheel horse

It’s that time of the year in Indiana where you have to keep the grubs at bay unless you want a mole problem. The particular dry product I use has to be watered in soon after application. Water hose don’t reach everywhere so I set the 416h to spread and water all in one shot

Can you tell us what makes you think the valves are pounding into the block? A common cure for a tractor that runs fine for a short time then dies is to loosen the fuel tank cap that may have a clogged vent hole causing a vacuum in the tank.

I don’t see the new reins for holding back all those horses if they try to run away!

Sounds like double-talking obfuscation to me. Are you comfortable removing the head (you’ll need a new gasket and, ideally, a torque wrench to put it back on)? That’ll give you definitive information to work with instead of guesses.

Probably going to paint the 4 wheels before the weights go back on.

Got the carb on. I installed a Briggs labeled Mikuni vacuum pulse fuel pump. The pump came from a parts tractor and pile we picked up at @Maz91 's place. The exhaust as a whole was ... messy. I had removed the muffler from the stub pipe the other day. This afternoon I decided to replace the cobbled Cub muffler with a lightweight (though probably louder ) pepper pot. My main concern is the aluminum cylinder head. There appears to be threads in that bore. Maybe I'll check out what sears did for their rigs with this engine or see about duplicating the original Wheelhorse design.

Success! Garden tractor platform storage achieved. winched it up a few inches at a time with a boat winch, kept walking back and forth to fine-tune the steering as it went up the ramp. Slow and steady, but finally got it! I quickly learned I could *not* pull it up the ramp backwards, (rear wheels first) by myself, because the front wheels wouldn't stray straight, they wandered off-center too much. But pulling it forward, front wheels first, was much easier, I just stopped and made small adjustments to the steering as needed. The deck *just* cleared, raised all the way up, with a 12-foot ramp.

Yes the mix of tines cuts the earth wide and deep To eliminate most early weed growth between the planted crop Rows!

First thing is find another shop. Now what is the issue that needs repaired? Explain what is going on and you will find folks on here that can help.

Yes I do have a solenoid, thamks. I'll get the better regulator and 5 pin ignition and should be ready to go. Thanks for all the help and good info

Hello and thanks for all that the Redsquare has to offer. I got myself in a predicament that I don't have the knowledge to get myself out of. I'm hoping someone can help. I recently bought a Wheelhorse Workhorse 800 Special. Tractor is about worn out with no attachments but was only $100 and it ran. It has a Tecumseh 8 HP with a Solid State ignition. It started the tractor and even charged the battery. I cleaned it up, replaced all the gaskets on the motor, replaced the carb, muffler and a few things. I don't need the tractor but it was a good thing to tinker with in my spare time. So I bought an early 70s Kohler K341, checked it out, cleaned it up and swapped it out in place of the Tecumseh. The problem is, I don't know what ignition switch to use. The K341 has points, a coil, solenoid and so on like most of the old pre-70s equipment. The Tecumseh doesn't. I have the tractor and motor completely rewired with the exception of an ignition switch. I don;t want to burn up electrical parts trying to get it right. .

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/wire-brushes/

@953 nut has a good thread somewhere about general wiring. I believe you'll want to wire that similar to something like a 1968 Charger 12 with a points ignition. If you're using a K341 starter it should have a solenoid. With the solenoid you'll want a standard 5 pin/blade ignition switch. I do NOT recommend using a cheap/inexpensive switch. Wheelhorse Toro switch number is 103990

Kev Steve and I go way back. Never did meet him in person. We both like 857`s. Maybe someday. I hope you have safe travels.

Baby has new shoes. Now that the bearing fiasco is out of the way. Next up to see if the ol KT17 has any life left in her. The day I brought her home. Where I’m currently at.

Third and final “test” mowing with this Magnum 14 (she ran great). Now to decide its fate.

Without the cable TUBE, the CABLE will soon fray and/or wear out. I have the cable tube (60 & 61)for you...and the cable (18) with cable clamps, CLEVIS (54) and cable 'loops' with clevis PINS. Also a short length of CHAIN (25) with clevis (24). The drive belt idler bracket SPRING ...I'll provide what I think is right...but you MAY have to cut it to length. This should give you all you need to hook-up the tiller to your 312-8. Put $45 into my Paypal account and I send all the hookup hardware shown in the pics---plus a few incidentals. ps--the belt you need is OEM part # 110265. It is 141" long x 1/2" wide. My paypal account name is: daveoman@windstream.net

The vent hole in the cap must be open. If it’s plugged as the pump sucks fuel out of the tank, it gets harder and harder for the pump due to a vacuum forming in the tank. That’s why it’s recommended to loose or remove the tank cap and see if this improves fuel pump flow. Its also easier to check the simple free things before throwing money at parts.

Steve! Have to admit that's the first thought I had as well. Many modern times repair shops are becoming more and more functional as "parts replacers" than actually doing any technical work. It's nothing against the businesses but a standard that's been changing industry wide over decades. Engine rebuilding facilities are increasingly ucommon. Some shops will still replace engines as whole assemblies but not delve into the repair. There are still older engines available for purchase to replace your own. Before you go that route... Can you post video and/or better describe exactly what your engine is doing and why you thought it needed repair at all?

Finally, 64F and low humidity this AM. Time to clean up some blow downs and lay in some firewood.

RIP buddy.