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I picked up a nice Farmall H at my tractor clubs show a couple of weeks ago and brought it home today. I bought it at a great price and it turned out to the H my buddy owned some years back and he blew it apart and sandblasted the sheet metal and painted everything. He paints for a living so I know its done right. Looks like it has sit outside a bunch since he traded it off, but it is still nicer than most of the stuff for sale around here. This one will stay for a long time unless something special comes along!! First pic is it at the show beside my Cub and the second is after getting it home and cleaning it a bit. It still needs some polish and touch up, but I'm pretty dang happy!

Decided to go a different route while waiting on Regal Red paint, so rolled on some truck bed coating. Plan was to paint over it but it doesn’t look bad like this in my opinion. The lights make it look like there is a real dark stripe on one side of bottom of bed but doesn’t look like that in person.

C120 special says...tecky no more! I also never could find out if the hood will fit...and Magnum mufflers will not work... So went to a round muffler.

Sprayed some Regal Red on bottom of my cart, will wait until tomorrow and flip it over to finish it and running gears. Just barely had enough paint so hopefully can find some more in morning .

Still impresses me no end to see these large, heavy machines with only about ~25 hp that were so versatile and capable. I read somewhere that the Farmall H sold more than any other single model ever. Makes one pause to realize that a lot of z-turns have the same horsepower, though I’m sure the torque curves are a LOT different!

Depends on the brand of tire and actual measurements.

Cars remind me of Junior Johnson and running bootleg.... Thanks for taking us along Don...

My stack came today for the 753. Shout out to Chad @Phat Stacks.

Painted some wheels RustyO Canvas White for my new to me cart. Actually done these on Saturday but just getting around to posting it…

Got another carb in the ultrasonic cleaner. Also had BBT pull tug tow yank my 1974 C160-8 Tecumseh Horse project up to the barn for some work.

Firstly fixed the flat Tyre While i do this, i see the right front was also not proper filled and i increase the Pressure a little up to 0,8 Bar. but than i see the left tyre begins ti rip..🤬 Ok so far they will still be usable but 2 new tyres will be ordered soon. I don‘t trust em with heavier Load on the Trailer... 😎 T Than i fabbed me a sleeve bushing for the Steering to reduce the side gap it has. Need one more and reset the Mowerdeck to it‘s original link instead of the Chain. Than i installed the Suicidal Mower but it was not funny - zillions of Moleholes - each 2 m the belt jumps off. 3 h Sun wasn‘t enough to dry the Fields but next Rain occurs, so i decided it must go - now. I decided to give the Suicidal mower a Hydraulic Motor and check if i can better handle with the FEL. This plan was still in mind but now i give it a Try. Ok Not perfectly, i must multiple adjusting the right Angle and i have to rework the Gearratio. the high beltgear ratio consumpts too much power and it didn‘t need 7000 rpm on the Discs. it shure sounds like an Alarm - „don‘t get too close“ but on mowing task it has not enough power to stay at this rpm. have another solution prepared that reduces the ratio to 2900rpm with different Beltpulleys, what should be fine and increases the Power to mow. We will see how this turns out. At least Ed Kenells sign found it’s Way to my side door on the Shed. Thanks Ed !

Installed a couple fresh pieces of pipe , a new clamp , and a NOS showerhead to replace the incorrect Briggs style muffler :

I will be at a 24 hour Mx race my son wull be racing in as part of a 6 man team this weekend. Enjoy boys!

The Long Island Antique Power Association held its summer show and tractor pull this weekend. I went today (Sunday) with my son in law and brother. We took my Work Horse GT-1800, C-175 Automatic, and 420-LSE to the show. Here’s some pictures. Hope you enjoy!

8 amps is plenty. I have a factory amp meter (real amp meter, not a misnomered volt meter) on my 855 and it only goes to 5 and I've never seen it run above 2.5. Find the F terminal on your generator. Then get it installed and all hooked up. Clamp the leads from a volt meter to your battery terminals with some alligator clips. Clamp another jumper wire to the field terminal on the generator. Start the engine, take a voltage reading. Then, with the engine still running, ground the field terminal and take another reading. Do this step quickly, like 5 seconds or less quickly. The reading should have gone up, near 15 volts. This is called a "full field" test and will test the full potential output of the generator. It takes the regulator out of the loop and so if the generator can get up above 13.5 to 14 volts the regulator, or its wiring, are the issue.

Beautiful H, one tractor I have always regretted selling was my 46 H, it was always one of the easiest starting machines we had around here

No problem either way Mike. I picked up a couple of these fans for you and Tony to keep me cool. Let me know if you guys want the little white mini skirts too! LOL

My Bronco has a Magnum muffler. No fitment issues at all. C-120 should be no different.

Great pics! Anytime I go to a show I always forget to snap pictures till the end

My Suburban hood was painted with INT. Red. Heat shields painted with Regal Red.

Personally, I like Rotella diesel oil. Lower price with more dino juice.

I had a funny feeling that was you don!!! I knew I should of said hi but I was chasing my kids around lol

Mowed with my $100 414-8 today. She needed a slight carb adjustment today and then ran and mowed great . Todays lawn stripes brought to you by a 36” RD

857 got a new shifter boot…the old boot still had another ten years of service left in her I’m sure, but figured why not

This is a new one for me. It's the center pulley off a 42” SD mower deck. But, I guess, after nearly 50 years it shouldn't be a surprise. Though it was a surprise how easily it came off. Fortunately, I have another 42” SD. I don't think it was an alignment problem as the rest of the pullys was evenly worn on both sides but comments and experience would be welcomed

The belt guard I got with my 551 Suburban doesn't fit over the pulleys. This tractor originally came with a Tecky 5.5 rowboat anchor and the 2 piece transmission. I got it with no engine and acquired a Non WH spec K90 from @formariz at the show. This K90 is shorter than the original Chief but as far as I can tell the pulleys are all the original size. So I'm building a belt guard. I am no metal smith and am limited on the available toolage. I'm making it out of another belt guard that has seen better days. I have it rough finished on the tractor. Outside of of course painting it, I want to make it look a little better. Maybe square off the front? Cut the angle back farther? Round off the front? What do you think? I though about placing the original style guard over the replacement and tracing the patter only bigger but I will lose the side pieces of the guard that cover the belt. The metal is pretty thick and I have no way to bend it.

Niiiiice!!!

Ok I gotcha. I'm going to take it to my buddy with these pictures. He has band saws ,plasma cutters, mig and tight welders ect.

If you keep that guard I'd curve it like EB pictured. But also leave the 90 deg angled pieces in place and they can then be bent and curved around to close off the front. Tack weld or braze it

Nice front weight rack there fella! . The M12 was from a 312 a few generations later..I moved the hood up on 4x4 wood blocks and the muffler was to fat. But I see yours seems to attach further away from the engine

Phew, been a hectic few weeks away from the build bench. Garden projects and holidays took far too much of my hobby time lol. Why is the rum gone? Why is the rum always gone? Lol And my favourite, courtesy of young Frankenstein..... WHAT KNOCKERS! Anyway, back to the build... I've done some primer spraying on the chassis dear readers, but that's about as interesting as watching it dry. So today I started to Nankle (technical term in Yorkshire) with the brake and clutch pedals. The original pre-production models had cast bronze pedal heads. But as it was just after the Second World War II, bronze was in short supply so they changed them to steel. I am copying a pre-production variant so brass it has to be.... The studs cast into the face were a puzzle for me to replicate. So I drilled holes 1mm diameter and soldered brass pins in, which I then filed and polished. This is a pic of the original pedal box...

As the garden project is all but done I'm back in the shop making swarf.... I made some tool hanging brackets for the community garden, I'm fed up of rakes and hoes and brushes being thrown about the tool shed. Made some steel plates to bolt all the rail sleepers (ties) together for our raised bed. Just need to figure out what type of soil to fill it with now.

Looks great. Looks better this way than red I think.

When i was a youngster I used to plow tobacco and mow quite a bit with the little 550 I still own, learned real quick you better not wear short sleeved britches with said tractor, and it had the original heat shield still in place.

Yes it will fit the issue is the magnum muffler

Do you know how old your engine is? If it has the spark advance cam rather than compression release then static timing won't work. If it is an older engine the sight hole would be on the aluminum bearing plate. Ignition timing on Kohler engines. Gapping the ignition points at .020 has always been the standard answer to how points should be set. That probably will get you into the ballpark where the engine will run, but with a bit of additional effort you can improve the engine’s power and performance. The Kohler engine manual in the Red Square files section covers two methods for setting the ignition timing, Static Timing and using a Timing Light. This manual is a relatively new manual and it overlooks the fact that many of our engines were built prior to the ACR (automatic compression release) camshaft. Earlier engines (mostly 1965 and earlier) had a Spark Advance camshaft that can not be timed using Static timing. At rest (and very low RPMs) the timing is retarded to fire slightly after TDC. The timing mark (SP) on your flywheel is at twenty degrees before top dead center but at rest the points on these engines break about ten degrees after top dead center. The only reliable way to check or set the timing on these engines is with a timing light. There are a couple ways to determine what camshaft you have. Presuming the camshaft in your engine is the one it was born with the data plate on the engine has a suffix that can tell you what camshaft was used. The table below will tell you the suffix applicable to your engine. The other way to determine what camshaft you have is to remove the cam gear cover and take a look. If you see a mechanism attached to the cam gear it is the ACR cam. The following engines have the spark advance camshaft; K-141, Suffix prior to “C” K-161, Suffix prior to “J” K-181, Suffix prior to “D” K-241, Suffix prior to “D”

Well, part of your issue is the lift arm does not go there it goes where you see it in this picture. The bushing OD is 5/8" ID is .5" Length from under flande to end of bushing is 3/8", OD of flange is 3/4"

Not quite, toward the end of production the flexible cable steering was added, just showing the brand with the link.

Thanks for sharing , looks like a great show. It hard for me to think of this tractor as an old or an antique. But it is 50+/- years old. Back in my high school Ford Tractor Shop flunky days a local farmer had one with a cab. I helped a mechanic split it 3 times the first year he owned it due to hydraulic transmission warranty problems. They finally sent a factory guy down who found the main transmission housing was mis-machined. The farmer got a new tractor. That mechanic had a temper and liked to yell/cuss a lot and throw wrenches at the stupid flunky. I guess that was part of learning to do what your told and keep your head down below the radar at times.

The 520 had battery ignition and the ignition circuit from the ignition switch powered the kill replay to supply battery power to the ignition coil. Shut ignition switch off and the relay contacts open. The terminal above the yellow on the kill relay is the one that would be connected to the magneto ignition. Yellow not used. Orange at kill relay needs to be disconnected from ignition circuit and grounded

A buddy of mine had the center pulley on his 42" deck do the same thing. I had a spare so he is good to go now. The problem I believe is that he put a cogged 5/8" belt on it instead of the smooth 1/2" I told him the correct belt to use.

better extreme pressure additive package that is more suitable for our old school Kohlers and Onans, too.

Looks like it plain ole’ wore out!

the pulley, and others on the deck, were worn. Probably explains why belts start slipping. I have selected slightly shorter belts from time to time. thought maybe that was the cause but never really investigated it

Found this at the Turkeyville show this weekend .

Not my video:

Something you hardly ever see anymore - early bodied short track Modifieds. Used to love watching these as a kid - not many survived. Not sure about the low blue one between the 7-11 and the 34 - that may have a later style body.

A couple pics from me. Of course we usually eat well.

Made a test run on my prototype 551 air gap heat shield on a fairly warm day. No singed leg hairs and the paint held up. I'd like a little better bend in the end but I'm not metal fab guy. If I can find the right size dolly maybe I can get it a little better.

We went pahts wranglin'. This is the Big Show haul for us. There's an 8 HP engine under the white bag.