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What have I done to my Wheel Horse today??? Nuttin!! It’s 98 degrees in the garage

Lots cooler here, its 92

Nuther cousin of mine....Drac Horse.

There is a 1” difference in height from the base to the center of exhaust between the two engines, the h55 being taller.

It’s been a while since Poppy ran. I gave him a bath, cleaned the points and spark plug, and he fired right up.

And here I was crying about it being too far away from me.

Well it was still hot in the sun but a slight breeze rolled through, I got the seat I picked up from big show 2023, finally mounted on the diesel. I used FASS diesel fuel pump brackets the rest of the GT14 tins and whatever hardware i had laying around.. Seat is not completely centered but itll work for the LIAPA show and pulls

Polished up Frank a bit today.

Worked on getting that tiny brake shaft seal out of the 551 trans. Poor eyesight and the heat didn't help. Decided to check out the new HEP Sales showroom and got a new sharp cobalt 1/16" drill bit. A couple of precision holes and then used the smallest wood screw I had. Grabbed it with my vise grip pliers and out it came.

Bearings and pulley from a rotary deck

Have a closeup of some shift linkage.

I mentioned in this thread how I wanted to move my water hole. It’s been 24 hours since I filled it up. I’d say it’s 40 yards from my tree. The orange bucket is where it used to be, flush with the ground. Now, it’s about 2’ below the ground surface and has a little embankment feature. The amount of tracks around already surprised me!

Gas grills can be an easy fix too. The grill at church sits outside under a cooking shelter, had only one burner working and they were talking about replacing it. I removed the burners, ran a bottle brush through each to remove the insect nests and now it is good as new.

Hi Bro, sorry to say but i call that Karma.. 😎

I have some family and friends that live in NW Houston/Cypress area. They lost power about 6am and said the eye of the hurricane passed over them about 10am. Thankfully they just had tree limb damage. Their power was restored about 8pm. The US Outage Tracker reports there are still 2.4 million people in Texas with out power this evening. It fortunate that many utilities across the US have an agreed upon Mutual Aid Contract. The utility I retired from had a number of trucks staged and crews ready to go as soon as it was safe to travel.

Try lifting your a$$ off the seat with the mower engaged. The engine should shut off and the seat light comes on to tell you what you did or that the pto is engaged.

I twant so tractor heavy i would buy it just to keep it from popping up in my CL mail....

Back country cousin? .

Unc got to give William and Rosaleigh a tractor ride this weekend! It’s hard to believe, but he is 2 and she is 4!

112° in the boiler room with both Cleaver Brooks boilers running non stop to maintain 65 PSI. Steam valve at 75% And my chiller was struggling. Another service call on the horizon for tomorrow. So 99° will feel like a cool breeze!

Agreed, I think they give these older tractors just the right look. It isn’t hard to cut a new gasket that’ll last at least a few years out of sheet goods using a sharp scissor. Remember cutting circles out of folded paper in grade school? Same process.

I have been waiting on high heat spray paint to go on sale then I realized that I have a can I bought for my pellet stove. I bought this little spray gun a year or two ago and have never used one before so I thought this would be a good learning experience. Paint seems fairly thin so I used it as is. Lower and upper heat shields painted. I was going to paint the muffler a silver colour but since I already have this paint and a silver deflector will be going onto it I sprayed it the same satin black as the heat shields. Spray gun worked well. The manual said to use 40-60 PSI but my little parts were getting blown all over so I reduced pressure to 30.

Here in SC Pa. farming country where they have a good food source, twins are the norm. Unfortunately many do not survive. Coyotes and vehicles take out many fawns. Yesterday I picked up my third road killed fawn this summer within a mile of the house. Triplets are rare. Having spent thousands of hours in the woods, can't say I have ever seen trips.

Had a chance to get back to this project. Got the 341 pulled. I haven't decided if I'm going to open up the top or not. For now I want to get the reborn B-80 done. Got it down to a rolling chassis. The electrical was showing it's age so I removed all of it. I'll do a complete rewire. I'll degrease and pressure wash it real good. I'm still pondering how far I want to go. You guys talked me out of a full resto due to this tractors history. Now I'm thinking about Flood Penetrol. Do the frame first and see if I like it. The hood is another thing. The repaint someone did just isn't good but it looks OK from 10'. Patina isn't there but the surface wasn't properly prepped prior to the paint. It looks like it was coursed sanded then painted. You can get the idea here. Now, short of a total repaint how do you think the Flood would do on it? Should I just go over it or lighting sand with a fine grit first? Or should I simply leave it as is?

Approximately 15% are triplets so it is pretty rare. Even more so to get a video. I'm surprised mama stayed there as long as she did. I caught these a year ago. Unfortunately the screen doesn't allow a good picture.

I bought these From @Darb1964 when I picked up the 1067. He had one and half sets. So I thought It is a nice day let’s put them on. This my Garage Queen never sees rain snow or anything else. This is what started me on Start/Gen tractors. All was my favorite model to have a close second was the TEN because at one time I had a few. I hope you enjoy the picks.

@Handy Don and @cleat That's perfect. Tells us exactly what we thought. I'll see if I can get a better cotter pin or maybe a piece of 1/16 wire. We couldn't get a hair pin in due to lack of space. The cheap garbage bulbs I bought were prone leaking. I've replaced a couple already and trashed the other one I had on the shelf. I bought better quality ones. The reason for not reinstalling any primer bulb on this tractor is that being a Briggs engine with a good Mikuni vacuum fuel pump it just does not need to be primed. Ever. Even when we empty the fuel system it turns just a few times and roars right to work. I still highly recommend primer bulbs and/ or electric fuel pumps for other engines.

The block and crank have been dropped off at the machine shop and I’ve had some time to get a few more parts on. There’s also a box of parts that came off the engine that need to be inspected, cleaned and painted.

Those are “J” bolts to anchor the engine to the frame. The pans on the larger blocks have the feet outside the frame and not all of them have bolt sockets into the pan from below that line up with the frame.

You take that EB? Triplets are very rare what say you @Ed Kennell I have seen at least four different sets of twins both at home and up north. Thinking the very mild winter is the reason.

That's probably a Magneto engine and it requires a ground to shut off. You've probably lost ground connection to the ignition switch or, you have a bad ignition switch. Does the backfiring occur at any other time?

The temptation is to go deeper than ~½” when control becomes very difficult. I inherited three of these in different sizes. After one use that nearly cost me broken bones, I decided I could afford good hole saws more than the inconvenience, pain, and medical bills. So far, so good.

Flat right front tyre yesterday. Mowing must be interrupted with the suicidal Mowerdeck. Heck the Grass is now still 80cm high... 🤪 ordered new one.

I have those and use them from time to time. Drill press only. Probably one of the most dangerous tools. BE CAREFUL.

The Federal Railroad Administration - Railroad Safety Board stopped by for an unannounced inspection today at the Sylvan Lake & Wheel Horse Northern RR... Apparently, there are millions of new regulations to accompany the new Green Deal for electrification of our nation's railways and they are picking on the small pathfinders - on the tip of the spear so to speak... You know, regulations to guide and assist... Well the SL&WHN RR passed with flying colors after i explained to the inspector that there was a Bourbon named after the RR... He was very impressed - with the bourbon - and he had me assist him in filling out the inspection form after he "tested" the bourbon a few times... All i needed to do was post this sign, and promise to keep a bottle on hand for future visits...

Looking on CL this morning I saw this add for free grill that needs repair. So I went and picked it up. Spent all morning cleaning it. It was so dirty. Took 2 bottles of simple green and a lot of elbow grease to get it so I could even touch it without getting greasy dirty. Needs a new grease bucket and a heating rod. It's a Trager Tailgater Wood Pellet Smoker / Grill. They go for like 450. Hot Rod cost me 12 bucks. Elbow grease was free. I can't wait to get the heating rod in and smoke me some meat !!!

Hello all, just wanted to report that the transplant operation was a success, and i was able to mow today with no observable problems. Yay! So yes, you can swap a 90-2046 & mating transaxle for a 90-1136 & mating transaxle. However, there were some bumps along the way, and unless you have a lot more experience at this than I did when I started it, you should be aware of these points: - As the hydro pump/motor casting looks identical in both units, my initial thought was that I could keep my 90-1136 and bolt it onto the 90-2046 transaxle. They even use the same gasket. But ... wrong! The fly in the ointment is that the gearing is different from one to the other. (see my earlier post above). Upshot: time spent on taking both of the hydro pumps/motors off of their respective transaxles, when I could have just used the 90-2046 as I received it. However, this did give me the opportunity to inspect the innards of the 90-2046 transaxle, which turned out to be just fine. The different gearing means a bit less speed and a bit more power, but driving it today, I really didn't notice any appreciable difference. "Fast" is fast enough. - The 90-2046 I got did not have the drive pulley attached. No big deal, thought I, I'll just take the pulley off my 90-1136. Wrong! The 90-1136 pulley has a splined shaft, and the 90-2046 has a smooth shaft with a key and set-screw. Oh well. A visit to eBay turned up the needed pulley at a reasonable price. - And I now have to use transmission oil in the 90-2046 instead of the 30w motor oil that is used in the 90-1136. Now that I think about it, there's another reason why I couldn't have used the 90-1136 hydro and pump on the 90-2046 transaxle. But, I didn't find out about the different oil requirement until later on in the project. Overall, that would be the biggest issue I had -- "you don't know what you don't know." I am extremely grateful for this forum and the vast amount of information and advice available on it -- without it, I couldn't have succeeded. Although there were a few instances of hair-tearing despair along the way. One aggravating issue I had was with the parking brake assembly, which I failed to take a photo of during disassembly. The brake lever on the transaxle was bent in such as way as to look legit but it did not work (probably happened just being moved around). Needless to say, the forum came through with the exact photo I needed to set it up correctly. Looking ahead, here in northern Virginia we usually have 4-6 weeks of "down time" between fall and winter, when there's no mowing to be done, but no snow on the ground either. So, I'll probably take advantage of that window to do some more work, and if it all works out, possibly even get another 90-1136 transaxle and look at refurbing the hydro pump and motor as @daveoman1966 has suggested, and put the whole thing back into its original configuration. It may seem like a round-about way of repairing the original cracked transaxle problem, but I'm inclined to look at the whole thing as an extended learning experience. And for now, I have a working tractor for the cost of a gasket and a drive pulley. My other takeaway from this project is a expanded and profound appreciation for the engineers and craftsman who designed and built this tractor. These are truly great machines that reflect the best that American engineering can produce.

I had a couple baseball sized rocks, they were a real big hassle ! We’ll probably set up a camera some time soon, but I have never shot a deer that we recognized on camera. They aren’t my cameras and for the time being I’m not concerned what is running around out there. It seems about late August to mid-September, their patterns all change.

Ok. It is not as thick as boiled linseed oil and I would think it would have to be reapplied regularly. But let’s see how it does.

Bob. I used that flood penetrol with a quart can of Rustoleum Regal Red several years ago on a 1054. I bought a very good bristle paint brush and I thought the job came out great and the finish dried very smooth.

Thanks EB, all set.

Bob retired from seat making a couple of years ago, after selling off his sewing equipment. The last previous post in this thread was nearly four years ago! If you read through the earlier posts in this thread, you’ll find his “adios, amigos”.

The engine already has a switch fo electric start so extending the wires and switch . will take care of the wiring problem. It has ball bearings on the crank so a manual clutch with work. You will have to most likly have to raise the engine to get the crank shaft at the right height ( same height as the old Kohler ). You can get a split sleeve on Ebay for the !" shaft to 1 1/8" with keyway. The engine cylinder and muffler may be in the way of the hood, haven't found drawing of the engine. My oldest tractor is a 1971 Raider with the newer loop style PTO so can't help with that.

I made one from a wheel lug. Ground the head down to 7/16" diameter and cut a slot with a hack saw. It's been working fine since 2010.

That asks the question, what are your needs? The crankshaft on the new engine is one inch whereas the old one is 1 1/8" so a new drive pulley would be needed. Not sure if the crankshaft is lower or the same height above the frame but you can work that out. If you use the 1057 for mowing then an electric clutch would do the trick for the PTO. The ignition system on the new engine would not be battery powered so a kill relay will need to be added but the thread below will guide you through that process, or you could abandon the existing wiring and just use the key switch provided on the engine. New hookups for choke and throttle but that isn't too hard to figure out.

A restriction valve for slower lifting is imho here the better solution. The lift goes very rude upwards. but that is just my humble opinion. the drop can be also be little reduced, but that can be handles with gentlier opening the drain Valve. The lift up is for my opinion the more stress for the Sicklebar.

Gotta pick up a couple small pahts tomorrow and then we'll see about finishing up...

These are $ 25.00 on