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I bought these From @Darb1964 when I picked up the 1067. He had one and half sets. So I thought It is a nice day let’s put them on. This my Garage Queen never sees rain snow or anything else. This is what started me on Start/Gen tractors. All was my favorite model to have a close second was the TEN because at one time I had a few. I hope you enjoy the picks.

Mighty Man Garden Tractors Marine Iron Works of Tacoma, WA, spent the war years as a heavy forging factory building valves, capstans, and other gear for the US Navy. As military contracts wound down in 1946, the men leading Marine Iron Works were ready to “beat swords into ploughshares” and began searching for a post-war product that would keep the factory and its employees in business. Those ploughshares turned out to be a small 3-hp garden tractor named “Mighty Man.” Marine Iron Works, in order to maintain quality, precision-built all of the Mighty Man’s components except for the Wisconsin AKN Engine. This included a nickel-alloy steel helical gear reduction unit with all gears mounted on oversized bearings and a “quick-hitch” that could convert the Mighty Man from a two-wheel unit to a four-wheeler with the addition of a riding sulky. Barney A. Winter, an aviation engineer, came up with the design and served as production manager. Rolling off the assembly line at the end of November 1946, the Model 7 and Model 9 was developed to answer the post-war need of commercial gardeners, small-farm owners, and home owners with light plowing needs. Within a year, a full line of implements (snow plow, front/back blades, harrows, sickle bar, etc.) were offered to maximize the usefulness of the Mighty Man. In mid-1947 the Model 5 Mighty Man ‘Junior’ was introduced for use on residential properties. Using a Clinton 700-A 1-1/2 hp engine, this Junior Mighty Man became the company’s big seller from 1949 to 1955 This will be my last daily Tractor Trivia posting, there are a few more in the works that will be posted from time to time. When I began writing this series of posts, I was primarily house-bound while recuperating from a stroke. Learning more about the various tractor and agricultural equipment manufacturers was an interesting way to keep myself entertained during this time and I hope you have enjoyed it along with me.

Got the 401 up and running and gave it a bath , first time it's been cleaned since we've owned it and the first time it's moved under it's own power in at least 35 years.

Tractor just home. Engine as received. Tractor de-greased and washed. Wire harness as received that was heavily butchered and modifies with a toggle switch for on.off and a push button start. Ignition coil was dead when I got it and I assume they may have put +12V to it. Wire harness rebuilt and a new ignition coil installed. Tractor cleaned up and running. I will run the old gas out of it and put in fresh fuel before adjusting the carb. Steering block was worn so new bushings installed there and on upper steering shaft. Clutch idler was repacked with grease and now runs quiet and smooth. PTO ball bearing and grease seal replaced. PTO needle bearing greased. Proper PTO pin installed. New roll pin installed into shifter as a loose fitting straight pin had been installed by PO and shifter was very loose. Shifts great now.

The Federal Railroad Administration - Railroad Safety Board stopped by for an unannounced inspection today at the Sylvan Lake & Wheel Horse Northern RR... Apparently, there are millions of new regulations to accompany the new Green Deal for electrification of our nation's railways and they are picking on the small pathfinders - on the tip of the spear so to speak... You know, regulations to guide and assist... Well the SL&WHN RR passed with flying colors after i explained to the inspector that there was a Bourbon named after the RR... He was very impressed - with the bourbon - and he had me assist him in filling out the inspection form after he "tested" the bourbon a few times... All i needed to do was post this sign, and promise to keep a bottle on hand for future visits...

Found these in one of my shop drawers, (whilst looking for something else, of course). They clip onto the wire, in between the reel and the feed rolls. I used them on a welder that I had problems with wire feed. The red ones are for cleaning, the black ones for lube, (aluminum wire). They worked great! Brilliant for welders in an environment where moisture can cause issues with wire gaining a film of rust if not used too often. Also it seems, made in the USA!

Ive have been wanting a 418 for a while now, never had a 400 series, and finally found one 40 mins from home. Wanted a better twin Kohler than the 17.5 hp Im use to. Although I really cant complain about them, my weekly mower C175 is my best friend. But wow I never knew these things are so much better and they steer so easy like a 520 with the gear reduction steering. At least this one does. The big Dico 23x10.5x12 are aggressive as hell. The 48" deck is really nice and quiet and no cracks or thin spots. I been looking for a good 48" for a little while too. Lol! Heres a few pics. I just got it today, changed oil and wash some bird poop off. Ill clean it more later. Not sure what exact year it is due to the stupid paper ID tags they used. If anyone can tell me precise let me know.

And this baby makes..... Out of fingers & toes so I quite counting.

Later model steering wheel installed. Mainly because I will use the original wheel on my GT1600 project. Fuel cap without gauge installed because the original one was missing the clear cover and would let dirt and water in. Good used hitch installed to replace very bent one that tractor came with.

42" deck torn down for repair. This much crud was removed. I guess PO was not big on cleaning. Deck is not too rusty but has lots of cracks. This is where the height adjust quadrant bolts on. Both end of the baffle are cracked off. There are more cracks where brackets attach as well. Here are some pics of it apart. Lucky for me, the pulleys all just lifted off and spindle bearings are all good. Idler is like new. idler tension bar is heavily worn but I have a good used one here for it. Looks like deck wheels are both new. It was missing the rear rollers but I have lots of those. Deck is cleaned up and ready for welding. A good friend of mine will do that for me.

Hot and muggy here in western Massachusetts but @WheelHorse_Kid and I spent a little time outside yesterday under the trees working on a C-105 that came as a package deal when I bought my c-160 auto. It’s pretty rough body wise but the transmission shifts into all gears. It’s an absolute wiring nightmare with random wires with a zillion connectors and splices everywhere. We got the engine running by jumping the starter direct and putting a jumper wire to the coil. The idea was to use it as our base for his pulling tractor build but…. I went to my friends house to pick up a tractor he sold to my older sons friend and came home with another c-105 (from a package deal him and I went in on a few months ago). It’s in much better shape body wise and should be easier to clean up when we are ready for paint. So now the plan is to take the best of both the tractors and make one real good one and Save the transmission and engine from what ever one we aren’t using as spares for his puller. The good looking c-105 is on the left in the picture. C-85 is going to my older sons friend tomorrow. while out yesterday working on the first c-105 Alex took the rear tire off and was swarmed with yellow jackets. Thank god he didn’t get stung since he’s allergic. I watched the tire go flying and him Go running. They had built a nest under the flat rear tire. How neither of us got stung all day working on and around that tire I don’t know. But glad someone was looking out for him.

I set out to finish my water hole relocation project this weekend. A borrowed D-180 loader/hoe made easy work of it! It makes me wonder if I should make phase two of my 520Xi loader project into a hoe! It was awesome to use such a sweet machine! I’ll use a shovel to smooth out and backfill the approach to the water hole, then fill it up.

Took the 953 to local ice cream establishment. It's only about a mile & half away. Got plenty 👍 from vehicles along the road. My girlfriend walked there. She said people were smiling when I pulled up??? Told her they were probably laughing at me! I really don't care........

Might have been dropped off a truck or trailer in the past. @Sublauxation As long as the transmission/ frame plate isn't cracked it's likely OK to use for LIGHT DUTY. The C Series aren't as prone to crack as the early to mid 60s frames but I've seen them go. If you have ANY doubt about the integrity of the frame or its attachment points.... replace it. It's all nuts and bolts and super easy.

I pulled the 36” deck off Stormy my 1056 for sale, cleaned the underside well, sharpened the blades, and gave it a grease job. Then, I mounted it on my B-120. The field is a good 4’ tall and in low range 3rd gear, I was able to mulch up quite a bit! My goal is to have a decent little fairway to practice driving golf balls I must say, this engine runs like a champ with a load or not!

Yup, a light touch is right. Too much pressure and that will break your wrist and make a mess of your project. Steady as you go there.

Yesterday we picked up the Workhorse GT1800 at our friend's house for some minor repairs and routine maintenance. (List is mostly for our own documentation) CHECK ALL NUTS BOLTS & PINS FOR PROPER TORQUE Check and top off hydro/system transmission oil. Change engine oil. Grease below steering wheel and whole front axle. Deck maximum up & down adjustment. Deck level adjustment. Straighten air filter base. Make gasket? DONE. Replace hydro lines. DONE. Inspect/ repair hydro lever connection. DONE. Clean hydro system. DONE. Copper bushing for lift lever. DONE. Replace fuel filter. DONE. REMOVE primer bulb. DONE. Drain fuel tank. DONE. Remove section of blue fuel line. DONE. Rewire ignition switch. Adjust wire length. DONE. Replace clutch plate. DONE. PTO adjustment.

General Hardware No. 55. Makes a hole from 1/2" or so up 8". Depth is just shy of 3/4" I used it to make an oval shaped hole in the barn wall for an AC warm air vent. Takes a light careful touch with good speed going.

Been there, Went into the garden shed without turning on the light and reached for a pair of clippers at the back of a shelf. As I felt what I thought was the handle it moved, turned out to be a small black snake about two feet. He was gone and I decided to turn on the light next time.

We've been poking around on the Workhorse GT1800 yesterday and today.

General number 4, 3/4" to 5". Haven't used it since Mr Jig invented his saw about 50 years ago.

First try soaking it in gasoline before buying expensive cleaners. I usually do that and then spray small passages with a can of carburetor cleaner.

Looked at all my pics but don't have the exact spacing for the PARKING PAWL (not paw) that you ask for. However, here are a couple pics that may help with the hole location: Maybe you can buy new....it is OEM # 5966 for the welded style PARLKING PAWL like yours.

Put a tach & gps speedo on rat rod. Wanted the "old school" look on the hood but with modern gages. And fortunately everything works!

Nice looking machine - just a FYI - anytime I've had an engine that hasn't been "run" in years - I take the plug out and work some oil on the cylinder walls and valves/guides turning the engine by hand - after 25 years its dry on the top…Marvel - WD-40 or similar

Just settin'. Enjoying the sun beams.

I was moving the water hole for my deers

Great find, I love my 418-C. How do you like the foot operated motion control, looks like it would be a great option to have.

I figured @JCM Jim would know right off the top 'is head. He's the 80s Wheelhorse mastermind. @bo dawg you'll like that one as a great worker. Strong smooth twin engine. Eaton 1100 transmission. Foot pedal Control. What's the info on that snowblower? Chute is unlike I'm familiar with and the frame mounted too.

In no particular order for the 31-18KE01 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=31-18ke01&quick=1&type=downloads_file

The Mayrath tractors were built using standard parts such as: It used a 3 speed T92 transmission. Parts are still available today for this. The rear end was a narrowed version of what was used in Crosley cars at that time The steering wheel was made by Sheller and was the same as used in Crosley cars. It uses a Ross steering box, possible the same one used in a Crosley car. I was able to get some (not all) parts that were for a WWII jeep MB or CJ2. The front wheel and rear wheel bearings were FAIRNA airframe bearings, possible surplus after the war. They are still available today. From what I've learned they used a couple of clutch arrangements. The engine on my Basic model is on a hinged plate that is pulled flat by a strong spring. The clutch tilts this plate which slacks the belt. Somewhere along the way the designed changed to a more conventional idler pulley moved by the clutch to slack the belt. They are also some that have an actual automotive type clutch. Some people claim they can go up to 30 MPH. I know mine in 3rd gear at about 1/4 throttle is a lot faster that I want to go considering the very simple band brakes it has. Mine has the rear PTO shaft. I've read this only came with the sickle bar mower, but alas I don't have the sickle mower.

One year only, 1987 Model 31-18KEO1

Imagine just reaching over and grabbing that instead of the belt or an air hose! LOL

Working on our friend's Workhorse. A little maintenance. A little repair. All good.

Started planting the garden around May 2. Didn't get pics of that, but here it is June 7. IMG_5091 (1).mp4 IMG_5093.mp4

In the press is the only way I use mine. For cutting large holes with a hand held drill, I use hole saws.

Berryman's carb cleaner in the 1 gal. Container

Resident carb dude extraordinaire: @ebinmaine advice?

Here is a e-bay cover I picked up for my 312-8 It fits well and hope it makes the seat last longer than me.

The bushing was hardened and cleaned up well. I gave the grease a little pathway to find itself to the bolt if it were pumped excessively, and gave the rest of the front end a well deserved grease job while I was at it. The excess got pressure washed off after work was completed.

I bought this one for parts but it is too good for that so it is getting added to the herd. It is going to be kept as a survivor as opposed to getting a full on restoration. Everything will be brought up to snuff, mostly is right now. Tractor runs and drives great.

Thanks for your articles I have enjoy each one and always was the first post I read every day. Glad you are doing better. I guess I will have to go back to my other pastime " Messing with @squonk "

I have one on the mower Wheel Horse that has a couple of pockets in the back. Very handy for hitch pins, pruning shires and other things you have occasional need for.

Looking at the casting, it sure does look dry. Maybe time to turn a .010 undercut inline with the zerk to spread grease on the replacement pin???

Thank you Gary and JCM. Awesome!

On my 857. Newtown Pennsylvania

Working on my sickle project today and I got a visitor

Yeah, the contrast makes it look much better IMO. And stop being a lug nut nazi. I might need some more from ya if I can get the hubs off that Commando 800 to swap them to normal good ones.

Hmm…good idea. My 867 —

Page 867, so here's my old 867. It's so bleeping hot that I've done absolutely nothing with my Wheel Horses today!