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I be Safe back home. I wanna thank you all Guy‘s again for let me having a great time in the USA. It makes me an unforgettable Time and Memories especially for meeting Friends and gaining new Friendships. First in Row: Don @Handy Don thanks for all your Support before, within and after the Big Show while hosting me, My Bro Kevin @Pullstart for hosting me in his tent. Mr. @Wild Bill for explaining me some Backgrounds about the Big Show and his Attention on my Person, The Breaklining Guy @rmaynard and his Wife for having a great Meal and nice talking while the Big Show, My second Bro @wallfish for the nice Gas talking and fancy Wrenching together- it was a pleasure to ride your Bike! @squonk Mike for having a good Time together, @953 nut Richard to have some good Time together and met you face to face, @stevebo for the nice late night talking late at the Big Show, @Ed Kennellfor the Shift stick for my spare Gearbox, And all other guy‘s they be not named here but i met at the Big Show. i think it will take a little time to settle all the impressions they are happen in the last 2 Weeks. But once for me is definitely shure - you guy‘s are overwhelming all my expectations on the Big Show. My conclusion: USA is definitely worth a Trip, especial to the Big Show. I didn‘t regret any Cent i spent primarily for this Event and even the Whole Trip. I learned a lot about the States in this Time. I have just one bigger Problem now...🤫 i need a permit for one more Tractor 😎🤪😂 i thinkering about to find me an Commando 8 with Mower Deck...🤐 ... probably next year...😁

Buddy of mine (Cub Cadet guy) that lives a couple towns over texts me that there’s a WH plow in the metal dumpster at his transfer station. He snagged it for me and I picked it up today “free” Real nice 42” long frame plow and the plow edge isn’t ground down!! Missing the angle handle but I have a spare one here.

Swapped out the front blade for mowing deck on the E-141. Used the C-105 to lift front end so rolling deck in was a breeze...

The GT-1800 and 1848 are identical, made from 1982-84 early models had metallic paint. 1984 was just a light pewter paint non metallic. I still have the one I bought brand new in 1984, with the original engine that I’ve done nothing to except change the oil excessively. I gave it a well deserved restoration about five years ago. The Work Horses are the featured tractor for next year’s big show.

Farm built tractors Ingenuity and a few basic tools allowed farmers to convert a Ford Model T into a tractor. Tractor prices were coming down toward the end of the great depression but not all farmers could afford one. Printed in 1939, this set of plans called for parts off a Ford Model T. At the time, the project would cost less than $60! The design is of a cultivator-style tractor, high rear wheels that could be weighted to provide even more traction. The description says that under average soil conditions, it could handle a two-bottom 12" plow, a 7' disk harrow, or two-row cultivators. The plans state that although a low hitch is provided on the rear-axle housing, the high hitch, also shown, is safe for most loads, as it was found that, with the tractor anchored, in several tests to determine its turn-over tendency, the forward wheels lifted 15 in. but no more. To insure a more efficient cooling and lubricating system than that provided on a Ford model-T motor, which is used in this tractor, a water pump and an oil pump may be added, but these details are left entirely to the discretion of the builder. Amazing for the farm builder, using the plans and parts as described, one would need very limited welding. Most of the work would involve wrenches and hacksaws and the like. This vintage farm tractor is a great example of the ingenuity of rural builders, working cheaply with limited materials.

E-141 getting the deck put on after front blade removal. C-105 gets the lift assist.

Put on all the tin and decals...waiting for new keyswitch then ready to fire it up.. More pics to follow

I found this one for sale without an engine last year. I really like the looks of the Work Horses.

We pay around a buck a gallon extra for NON Ethanol gas here and it's worth Every Single Cent. Don't look at it as a "cost". Look at it as a "VALUE". We have multiple various types of machines for usage over multiple various types of tasks throughout the year. Some only get run once or twice in 12 months. We switched over to NON E gas years ago. NO additives. NO additional chemicals of any kind. NO FUEL RELATED PROBLEMS.

Premium with out corn squeezin's = $4.29. Over 20 tractors, some that sit for extended periods of time and no fuel related issues = priceless. Always a good feeling when you can turn the key & get the task at hand done.

They are but far and few between

"Do I look Like I've put on weight?" Sorry for the drama gang, My tractor is feeling a bit conscientious. I was finally able to get to a scale and see what we weighed together. Our target combined weight of this team is1050lbs. Below is what we tipped the scales at. What I found was either me or this tractor had to gain 85lbs. We discussed the situation and decided that there was a slim chance that I would be able to gain the weight in the next couple weeks, so it was up to the tractor to pack on a few lbs. Next questions what to use for weight and where to put it? To answer the first part of the question, I had some more 3/4" x 6" flat stock laying around that I wasn't using. So I grabbed my trusty 4 1/2" grinder and hacked out some slabs. Also found a piece of 3/4" X 4" to hack up as well. All of this added up to 73lbs. Now the second part of the question, (where to put it?). Well this tractor happened to have a tool box under the seat that I wasn't using. . This spot would be perfect as it would put all of this added weight directly over the rear axle. Before adding the weights I cut some strips of wood to suspend the slabs over the contours in the bottom of the tool box. The stack of slabs fills the tool box up perfectly. I drilled some holes in the top 4 slabs & bolted them together to ensure that they could not work their way out of the tool box. The remaining 12lbs was added to the dumb bell bar in front of the rear wheels. Soo other than a few counseling appointments to get the tractor over it's weight gain complex, I think this team is ready for competition.

Prepped and serviced a 520 XI for it's new owner.....

It was a true pleasure to meet you in person. I already knew you were an enthusiastic person from your posts and seeing you ate the show was even better than expected. You are a brothe from another mother for all of us and we look forward to seeing you again.

I am a very frugal individual. I won't pay more for a big name-brand when the generic product is just as good. With that said, I have been using Non-Ethanol gas with Berryman Gas Treatment and Sta-Bil Storage for the past dozen or so years in all my Wheel Horses and have had no fuel related problems. I wouldn't spend the extra money if I wasn't seeing good results. Mike @Sparky has chronicled his gas runs to New Hampshire to fill gas cans several times. It is sad that some state legislators are sticking it to the recreational vehicle owners that way. VOTE THE BUMS OUT!

Bought a couple of brake linings from @Maynard at the BS. Below are pics of one I installed today. As an adhesive, I used Goop All-Purpose adhesive - $6 for 1oz tube, I used half a tube. 1. Laid out the parts (You can see the old damaged lining) 2. Cleaned the new brake lining and inside of the brake band with Zep 3. Squeezed the Goop onto the brake lining (the side with two rivet reset dimples) 4. Spread the Goop with a plastic putty knife 5. Put the new break pad in the brake band and clamped it. 6. Now we wait, 24ish hours 7. Then reinstall Thx again to @Maynard for these high quality linings.

Opinions vary I know, but I run ethanol-free in everything that has a carburetor. I have to do this year round. Here in this area, relative humidity is high year round. Everything (fuel tanks, sediment bowls, oil sumps, etc...) have issues with condensation. The only way I would run ethanol fuel is if I can remove every drop from the fuel system after each and every use.

No worrys Randy, they'll give you a HIGH ROLLER FREE GAS PASS when you start plugging those slots with all those rolls of quarters you got squirreled away.

I just don’t use enough fuel to make it worth a lot of extra effort/expense to get non-E (100+ mile round trip to nearest availability) or to experiment with trying to doctor fuel. The only real-life, long term test of doctored fuel I’ve seen showed that none made much difference (I suspect that if it did, that product would be owned by major oil company and sold at the pump as a premium “upgrade” like getting the wax treatment at the car wash). So I run pump gas always. But the machines that will sit for months between uses (chainsaw, generator, leaf blower, snowblower, etc.) get drained/run dry after the season/use and stored dry. No fuel issues.

I just take two five gallon cans to the gas station, prepay $25.00 on the REC fuel pump & put $12.50 in each can. It's easier to pour into the tractors & doesn't slosh out the vent or nozzles on the way home. I mix a gallon at a time for all my 2 stroke tools in a seperate one gallon can with a spring loaded nozzle. My concrete saw sat in a freezing cold / blazing hot shed for 6 years, started on the second pull. Personally, I don't care what fuel costs, unleaded regular or REC. Two 20 oz bottles of soda are $4.00 plus deposit if you buy 2 & have your Speedy Rewards card handy.

Add some wheel weights and chains to the rear tires. Or weight and a more aggressive tire tread. Solve the tire traction problem first. Locking the rear will ruin it. Without tire traction you would just have 2 tires spinning instead of one. Plus it will force the tractor to drive straight.

Maybe if my GT1600 Hydro is done I will bring it down next year.

Main dash plate with cutouts, and lower plate with and without electric clutch switch. Main dash has been redesigned to prevent OEM type failure of the center bend. We actually split the dash in two and created 2 more screw holes on each side to keep it flat and made a custom dash bulb ring. Can be purchased online at: https://greystone3d.etsy.com/listing/1740840062

Keep looking. It’ll keep you out of trouble.

I run non-e rec fuel. 1/4 mile away. I'm in a boating mecca so it's everywhere. About $1.50 more per gallon... Only use about 10 gallons / yr now plowing snow with the C-105. Basically the price of a can of sea foam & stabil... BTW- Im still trying to find the gas tank on the E-141's or the A-60... They don't gunk up or require a trip to the gas station...

Remember the $1 seat from the Wheel Horse show that I taped up (reupholstered). Stumbled across this custom seat cover that was made for a 1054…but fits this seat pretty well also! Has a drawstring to help it stay put.

Wired up a kill switch and adjusted the throttle and governor on the K90 551. Short road test proved the double heat shield worked well. Recoil is off as it needs a new handle.

Just picked up this 1972 Raider 14 today. Its been sitting outside for at least 5 years. Guy I bought it from at a rental property of his, said it was a old guy that owned it and he died a couple years ago. My plans with it are see how it runs (motor is free) and I might swap out the the 14hp into my 73' that was originally a 14hp but has a 12hp now. And then I am thinking of lowering it and swapping pulleys out to make it faster. It will get paint of some kind as well. Deck is there and I pulled it off but it's a bit of a mess, blades are locked up.

Had some of the grandkids over on a hot summer day. Set up the sprinkler so they could play in the water. So what did they do? Headed straight for the tractors!!

T'was a good weekend. Camping a couple hours north. Did some hiking. Got to meet my new grandkid.

I know of one way to de-ethanol gasoline, it works somewhere between about 98 and 100%, but obviously it means removing that portion of the fuel that is alcohol, and so you get a corresponding decrease in volume. And then, since the bonding agent doesn't run through a gas engine so well you have to find a way of removing it once it bonds to the alcohol and separates from the fuel.

Always surprises me what some people throw away

A good bean dinner should let you know...

Good to have goons Mike to watch your back. Since your #1

The weight on the wheels (or by filing the tires) is valuable since it is directly supported by the ground. Weights on the frame are supported by the bearings and transaxle. It isn’t hard to find wheel weights up to 75 lbs per wheel outside (and up to 15 inside) and depending on your tire size up to 50 lbs of liquid fill per wheel. So getting over 200 lbs of added rear weight is not difficult and may make all the difference. Also important is that the on steeper ascents, the front may also need some weight to stay down. Same idea--wheel weights and filled tires. On descents, you cannot rely on engine braking the way you can in a fully gear drive vehicle--it is possible to have belt slip when descending hills easily driven up. Lastly, be very sensitive to the WH’s modest braking through the transaxle, not at the wheels. You should test it out in not-dangerous situations to get a feel for it. Adding a lot of weight to the tractor will significantly affect stopping power.

Been away ...Glad the old girl is working out for you. She originally had duals on her. That might help with the tippiness if the weights don't help. I took the duals off to save space in storage as I never mowed with the bar raised. She doesn't have a normal wobble box. PO removed the innards and replaced it with an eccentric and pitman arm like used in regular full size sickles. You have to carefully watch just about every nut and bolt on her the shaking is pretty intense... By all means keep wearing steel toed flip flops sickles are unforgiving when the meet flesh and body parts

Since I will not use any "snake oil" in my tractors, I have rebuilt all of my carburetors with gaskets and things that are described as "ethanol safe". Hoses, and filters as well. Then, during the spring and summer, I can run regular gas in my workers. Show tractors that may not be started for several months have ethanol-free gas in them at all times. As fall approaches, all my workers are gassed up with e-free, and then I feel safe letting them sit all winter long. I have never had a problem since I started this routine. As far as cost of ethanol-free in my area, I last purchased 14 gallons for $55. That's $3.93/gallon. That's a price that I am not happy to pay, but I feel the benefits outweigh the higher cost. Snake oils such as Sta-Bil, Sea Foam and others are expensive themselves and add enough cost to a fill-up that in many cases exceeds the cost of e-free.

Luckily just down the road from me is a Native American owned gas station that's selling non-ethanol gas for $3.57 a gallon. We'll see how long it stays at that price. This just opened when they put in their slot machine hall.

Got the running fleet out today to stretch and take some pics! Also got the hood back on the Suburban after some crack repairs and got it running again with a new glass bowl. Unfortunately I did this after I put the rest of them away so it didn't make the fleet pic. IMG_5170.mp4

Got my stack that I purchased at big show on the 953. Gonna order the shorter stack he makes/sells for my 753 soon.

Took a walk and found this on the trail. I enjoyed our walk Jay.

I washed my car for the first time in about 6 years......

That would be great! There’s plenty of people here including me that would like to meet you! Maybe you can pick up @ebinmaine on your way!

I've seen/read/watched several. No offense intended to anyone here or any other site or in person. I just don't see the value. I've never seen one single accurate honest non-sponsered test that proved to me there's a difference or assistance in using an added chemical in gasoline. To the best of my knowledge at this point in time there is NO product that absolutely negates the negative effects of ethanol. I'd like to be proven wrong so I can do different experiments. Those of us that do use an add-in seem to be the ones that ALREADY take good care of machines. Again... no offense. It's your money. It's your engine pool. It's your decision.

Favored tire fills are RV antifreeze and Rim Guard (a brand of beet juice--look for a dealer in your area). These will not freeze or rust the rims inside the tires. There are water treatments to inhibit rust but they don’t seem too popular among members here. Some vendors In the past used various chlorides (to add weight to the water) but rim corrosion usually was severe over time. Cost and availability usually drive the decision! Numerous threads on this site explain different ways to do it yourself with a small pump. Practice using the search box at the top of this page!

Cavities and channels covered by Welch plugs can, and often do, harbor crud. My Onan P218 underwent three cleanings (two with ultrasonic) without success before I relented and removed the Welch plug. Yep, crud. Fourth time and it purrs.

Thanks @wallfish and @8ntruck that makes a lot of sense. I like the wheel weight and chains route a lot better especially for the longevity factor. I’m new to the wheel horses but I clearly have been missing out!

Some early C-175 had Sunstrands. Is that what you have (Tranny filter on right side of transaxle??) If so check for any wiggle in the cross shaft #79 the bushing # 54 maybe worn out. The pic you posted is #77. Any cracks in the plastic slider #60 pic 2

Whether you use the C-120 as original (90-1136) or somehow swap the hydrogear (90-2046) onto it, I strongly urge you to refurbish the internals of the hyd pump (& motor if 90-1136 route). Either one is at least 50 years old....& I can almost guarantee you that either one/both have internal wear, and that wear will result in way less than optimum performance. This is NOT DIFFICULT... Look at some of the pics in these two files....notice the wear on the soft brass components. THAT is what needs attention. SUNDSTRAND HYDROGEAR refurb.pdf SUNDSTRAND Piston-Piston PUMP & MOTOR Refurb.pdf