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Two sisters, one blonde and one brunette, inherit the family ranch in 1875. Unfortunately, after just a few years, they are in financial trouble. In order to keep the bank from repossessing the ranch, they need to purchase a bull so that they can breed their own stock. Upon leaving for another ranch to check on the possibility of buying a bull, the brunette tells her sister, When I get there, if I decide to buy the bull, I'll contact you to drive out after me and haul it home. The brunette arrives at the man's ranch, inspects the bull, and decides she wants to buy it. The man tells her that he will sell it for $499. After paying him, she drives to the nearest town to send her sister a telegram to tell her the news. She walks into the telegraph office, and says, I want to send a telegram to my sister telling her that I've bought a bull for our ranch. I need her to hitch the trailer to our pickup truck and drive out here so we can haul it home. The telegraph operator explains that he'll be glad to help her, then adds, It's just 99 cents a word. Well, after paying for the bull, the brunette only has $1 left. She realizes that she'll only be able to send her sister one word. After thinking for a few minutes, she nods, and says, I want you to send her the word comfortable. The operator shakes his head. How is she ever going to know that you want her to hitch the trailer to your pickup truck and drive out here to haul that bull back to your ranch if you send her the word, comfortable? The brunette explains, My sister's blonde. The word's big. She'll read it real slow. ( com-for-da-bull )

Time to get this project back on track. Although I'm a few weeks away from being able to do any fabricating I can work on design and parts sourcing. I had been struggling with the dash and seating design. I discovered I was trying to use the wrong hood. I had originally planned on a round hood front end but have decided to use a 953 front end and dash. I have sourced the grill and dash now I need to visit my favorite sheet metal shop for the rest. I am looking forward to getting back to fabricating.

was going through a box of old pictures and found these from 1975. Time trials ai Indianapolis Speedway, May 1975.

Day 1: Today was really just a strip down day to be able to see everything and get closer to paint. I took the hood, fenders, gas tank, floor boards, mower deck, and mounting brackets off today. And I also took out the predator engine.

My oncologist said I could go back to working in my shop 2 weeks after my last chemo therapy. That means I can go back to fabrication in 4 weeks.

Comfortable! BTW, if @Wild Bill in VA shows up with a necktie, I’m gonna have to revise my entire show wardrobe!

If Fantasy Island were the Big Show... (Note the Wild Bill-like custom uniforms) detractors!!! detractors!!!

As many of you may remember last fall I got this tractor from the guy I work for neighbor, His name was Richard Kelly. He was a big time wheelhorse guy. We got a few of his tractors a few years ago that weren’t being used. But he was still using his C-161 to mow his yard. Then last July he passed away and before he did he said to me that I could have his tractor. So last fall I picked this up. He put a predator 420 in it for some reason. And I wanted to make it original so, I searched a little and found someone that had one and I got another C-161 from a more then generous Wheelhorse owner. So I am going to make both tractors into one. It has a sunstrand transmission. When got it the tractor ran great and everything worked perfect and no weird noises or anything. Now that it sat all winter the engine wouldn’t start so I figured it’s time to start this project. First I have some questions. On the rear of the transmission I saw it has this like output shaft thing. It doesn’t turn. But I was wondering what it did. I have a picture I will upload maybe someone will know? I got found the model number and was wondering what year it was. Maybe someone can decode it. I will try and post every time a do something or get some parts for it Thanks for reading! IMG_7087.mov

Played around with the mount for the compressor head a bit tonight. The bracket is from a garden tractor lift that was tweaked and the hood is from @Pullstart! Giving life to a beat up hood!

Will be eagerly awaiting Fabricating is good therapy.

I hope, I hope, I really hope, this tractor and I stay out of the bumps and bruises thread. @pfrederi offered it up for sale for $150 and I quick nabbed it! One of the rules to tractor buying is never tell how much. Well, I don’t believe this will ever go far from my possession , so I don’t mind sharing that info. The electric over hydraulic pump on the front and gravity drop have quickly grown on me. I bet I’ve got 3 or 4 hours on this thing since unloading already! It’s a beast! When we were talking about the model number, 753, seven fifty me quickly rolled off my tongue. It’s dangerous and wild. I found a cast “HOOSIER” seat for $25 from @wallfish’s pa Paul, and moved the pump forward enough to toss my spare hood on. The hood screw tabs on the gas tank are both ripped out, so I got creative with the rear hood hold downs, just some crushed 1/2” copper elbows drilled and bent a bit for zip tie action.

Steffon, Great video and pictures! Wild Bill

If you are considering permanently? attached loading ramps, you could maybe split and hinge them to reduce height when stowed. The height should then be no higher than the load, (tractors), and could also provide a bit of a safety factor if anything came loose and tried to slide backwards.🙀

Took me a while to made this on Iphone but it seems it worked.

I did a little spiffing up this morning. I stacked two wheel weights on the left rear, as a counterbalance. Thanks @rjg854! There were a couple sharp zip ties, so I trimmed them up flush and added a few more on the hydraulic hoses to keep them in place. The battery strap lost it’s nuts, so I placed a backer on each bolt and tightened new ones in place. So far, the hydraulic cylinder has backed out of the end twice or maybe three times. I used a 1/4” bolt as a set screw. I did the trick by tightening snug, then backing off, then snugging further, etc. eventually I got about 1/2 turn more than tight before the bolt snapped, then I filed it smooth and added a jam nut. I’ll keep an eye on that. If it backs out again, I might tack weld the shaft to the clevis, or drill it out and place a pin where the set screw was, or back the clevis off and grind a flat, for a real set screw to hold tight.

I used the skid plate as a pattern and had Bill, my welder guy, make a plate with the same bolt hole arrangement and added a post to attach the wheel. I can still adjust the wheels for up and down height adjustment.

The last thing a varmint sees coming at them..... Great start for "tick abatement"

true story……520Lxi would be the 20hp liquid cooled Kawi. I always get the “skeptical eyebrows” when I talk to people about my 522xi, but they change their tune once I pop the hood and they get a look at the frame. Those 5xi series look like cheap big box store plastic garbage from a distance. it’s a real shame. Once you start working on one, you realize how beefy they actually are. Damn fine tractors that never got to evolve.

i picked up a p218 complete but partially disassembled its got the 1 7/16 inch crank. paid 160. ordered a gasket kit for it plus a spare. got a p220 complete and assembled its got the 1 7 /16 crank too, apparently it looses spark when its warmed up. and a b48m (not sure the crank size but it came out a case 446) with its whole ignition missing minus the points plunger and the spark plugs in the heads. its also missing part of the carb and the whole air cleaner. paid 250 for the pair. all in all i think im gonna want to fix mainly the p220 as it fits so good on ruby. im definitely gonna make the p218 nice too. i really like the b48m but i dont know where i can get an ignition kit and carb for reasonable price. also does anyone know where i can get a pulley for it? im gonna run it pullet swapped anyway but the smallest i could find that would fit was a 6.75 inch pulley on Mcmaster-carr

It was a pleasure to met you „Mr. Victoria Secret“.. 😎😂😂😂 Hope i can made it once again! 👍

I have been planning to do a side by side 953 build and my plan for the dash was to use two 953 dash board units connected by a bridge. May make a fiberglass mold from a cast iron dash then make two of fiberglass and a fiberglass bridge. Probably easier than attempting to join two cast iron units. one for steering and the other could become a glovebox.

Ladies and Gentlemen!!!! Introducing QuDi! (Pronounced CheeDee) 2000 cubic inches and 67 lbs of upgraded 3d print awesomeness!(we hope! Lol!) Probably won't have a chance to get setup till the weekend but new dash attempts are almost here!

Good excuse to get familiar with the manuals section here. Download all the manuals and parts breakdowns for your machines and print em !

Love the 953 idea!

You might not find them in Hillman drawers... kind of a specialty thing. I do too and buy in bulk... use your shout out you need one. When I was a rookie Racinbob sent me one so now I think I can afford to pay it forward.

Hardly necessary to remind you that manufacturer frame load ratings are typically for the stripped bare frame--all decking, sides, and often hinged ramps are NOT included. Also, I wouldn’t go by the axle ratings -- the frame may not be equal to the sum of the axles! In my mind, late 60’s and early 70’s tractors (short frames) without implements are typically ~450-500 lbs. C’s and the 00’s models are 550-600 depending on transmission & engine. So with five tractors, add in the deck or supports, ramps, filled tires & wheel weights, and miscellaneous other stuff. I’d say that could come in around 3,000. The trailer frame, axles, and wheels/tires alone may be 1,000. That’s approaching 4,000 down the road. This is well above my car’s max, for example. Your tow vehicle may need beefed up suspension/brakes, tires, cooling, and electrical setup, plus a suitable (possibly leveling?) hitch. If the trailer has electric brakes, you’ll likely need a breakaway switch plus an onboard battery set to charge from the electrical connection. Your existing system of heavy ramps as wheel supports should be fine for the rear two. I’d consider solid or mesh decking for the front three, especially if the decking will reinforce the structure of the trailer frame by reducing flex between the hitch and the axles. Hinged ramps are SO convenient but SO terrible for aero performance I’d leave it out. That said, one set of ramps easily (and securely) attachable at any loading/unloading position makes good sense to me. If they can travel conveniently attached alongside or under the tractors, so much the better. I have slight frustration that my 1,000 lb capacity folding ramps have one curved and one straight section so they don’t nest neatly for storage, but I’m able to load/unload with the mower deck or mid blade attached without snagging--far safer and easier. On thing I am strongly considering is adding fixed (or easily-removable) tie-down points to my working class tractor so that loading and unloading go faster. I put four on my chipper and it has saved me a LOT of time!

Would give em two spotwelds on the shaft. I had on all my Hydraulic cylindre welded up the ends. Get a newspaper and an old rag and wind it arround to be shure you have no spots on it after welding process. Keep the newspaper and the rag moisty but not too wet. when it began to damp take a break for cooling. first upperside than underside, than after cooling left side and at least right side. So it will not move in a direction you don‘t want. Distance from the wrapping Area to the weldingarea about 1/2“ That lasts forever.

Hooray!

Ho boy, I anticipate a topic nearly as filled with different opinions as the ongoing “best oil” and “correct paint color” discussions . The first questions that popped into my mind are: - Target gross and tare weights of the trailer? In NY State, these affect licensing and equipment rules and tow vehicle requirements. - Ability to change configuration for other uses like hauling sheet goods or other materials? - Loading process, e.g. rear only, one or both sides, ramps fixed or removable? - Location and mounting for containers for other equipment, e.g. fuel, tools, winch, implements. camping gear? - Usability as a work platform for field repairs or as a tent platform? Yes, I am regularly and rightfully accused of over-thinking!

The brake assemblies that you referred to above are ours. The pads are thicker and the rivets are recessed that deep in order to provide longer use. Whoever's currently making the brake assemblies for Toro has changed them and the rivets are nearly flush mounted, which would make them useless after very little use ( causing them to grind into the PTO pulley). We were a long time Toro/ Wheel Horse dealer , the oem assemblies didn't come like that years ago.

@rjg854 How did you put those wheels on there? Take off the shoes that were on the originally, did you use one of the holes that were for the shoes?

Check Surplus Center and see if they have a pulley that will fit or can be bored to fit.

That was my first game plan. Nope. It was tie wrapped tight to some hydro lines. No way to cut the ties. I feel better supporting them too.

It was sooooo much Fun for me, to be on the Show and to met ya guy‘s all once Face to Face. Wish i where closer. 👍

Thank you! Get the heavy duty one, if you can. Wider flanges.

20240622_093037.mp4 Shout out to my buddy Richard Pugh who took my idea and made it a reality. We've been working together via texts since about last November to work out the details and make it perfect. Picked it up at the big show. Rich does some amazing custom work. @19richie66 If you have a custom project in mind, don't hesitate to reach out to him, surely you won't be disappointed.

Oxymoron

It looks like the dogpoint setscrew is sheared off. It needs to be replaced and a locknut put on it.

That all wheel steering rear axle has some crazy Ackerman built into it!

Another one Red Green would like.

Here’s my tractors and parts haul for the year. I feel like I did ok. Hindsight, I’m glad that I offed the Lawn Ranger, we were pretty well packed in on the way home! I picked up this Raider 12 for my brother in law. I have a couple various tillers and his soil is quite sandy, so the one I have with somewhat worn out tines will do just fine. He paid $200 to have his neighbor come work up his food plots this year, so I figured I’d send him a tiller tractor to do it himself and save some coin. The best part about it, is part of the @roadapples collection is in my family, and will have a purpose. I bought two sets of wheel weights, one from @rjg854 and one from @squonk. The hundred pounders will be added to a plow tractor for sure! The two smaller ones might be stacked left side on “Seven Fifty Me” for some offset weight of the sickle bar. I grabbed two 8” plows, one complete and one moldboard only. They will be for house spares for plow days. There’s a cheap unknown brand front sickle bar mower…. It needs some repairs and maintenance, but it operates freely! I have another set of sickle bars, one Wheel Horse with a frozen wobble box and one Allis Chalmers style. my new favorite mower, 753 sickle machine. I’ve added the hood and seat now. A cool round hood pull behind tiller, equipped with a fine example of a mouse house! It pulls over well but has no spark. I’ll either get it running, or replace it with a vertical shaft something else. I just want to use it. I traded Richie a GT14 grille he needed for a 3 point GT14 lift bar. Back in 2020, @ronwh sent me a 3 point kit with no lift bar. I built a lift bar for some friend’s kids and that machine has now come back to me. I’m looking forward to what’s next. Guy Meyer sent me home with an 8 speed transmission from Mr. Jay’s collection, and I have a couple recoil parts here that I need to tune up.

I am already enjoying this tractor, and have done some side trail maintenance by running it at a 45 and trimming the overgrowth on my back driveway, including small shrubs and trees up to 1” diameter. They fall like they were zapped with a laser beam! I did find out that it becomes quite unbalanced when the weight is hanging like that, and feel like a little more left side weight would be smart. Luckily I operate this at a very slow and manageable speed and am kind of always on the defense, so it tipped a bit and I was ready to counter the movement. I think I need a sticker, “WARNING! Safety Flip Flops Required!”

Reminds me of a miniature Rumley Oil Pull

I picked up a front sickle mower for $30, thanks to @cafoose for that assist! That could give me about an 80” cut if I were to make the, work together. I really like the cement weight hanging up front too, just a little more creativity! As Paul tried to convince me, there isn’t a ton of room to adapt my HY3 kit. The electric pump will stay. I spent some time giving it a grease job, checking oil, etc. the 8 speed trans makes a funky noise in 2 hi, but @roadapples brother Guy gifted me another 8 speed. I’ll keep it aside just in case that noise proves to be detrimental.

That crank size was used by Deere on the 300/400 series. Compression test the 220 before you get too far along...you want to see 120ish both sides

And finally, this K-181 from John as well. He offered it to me for sale before the show. I had a starter type that I bought from JoeM a couple years back, and we decided we’d stick them next to each other for sale for his asking price, and see what one sells and what one I keep I ended up selling mine to Racin’Bob the day before I left, so that settled that!

The generosity of Wheel Horse people, both friend and stranger, is like none other! There was a free pile, I found some cool belts that I could use, a carburetor and a recoil housing, Lane gave me a starter/generator bracket, and Mr. Richard gave me a handful of tools from his collection. One of the belts I scavenged from the free pile was purely because the part number search yielded it was for a 540 rpm front PTO kit. Lane introduced me to Eric Van Luke (I believe) and he mentioned having two different 540 kits. I was excited to gift him the belt, and to find out he was missing that piece to one kit!

With everything lined up and the dogpoint holding the shifter in place, slowly tighten the dogpoint as you shift through the gears. Once you start to feel resistance in the shifter back it off just a tiny fuzz, hold it in place with the allen and tighten the jam nut.