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Taking this RJ to the Big Show. Cleaned her up and put some rear hub caps in for bling!

The general-purpose tractor In the early days the tractors that opened the midwestern parries and operated flat-belt driven equipment were too large and cumbersome for lighter jobs such as row-crop work like planting, cultivation and harvesting. This work continued to be done by hand or with horse-drawn implements. Some lightweight motor driven plows and cultivators were developed during the first couple of decades of the twentieth century but they single purpose machines lacking the versatility to do multiple tasks. The first commercially successful light-weight petrol-powered general-purpose tractor was built by Dan Albone, a British inventor in 1901. He filed for a patent in 1902 for his tractor design and then formed Ivel Agricultural Motors Limited. Albone called his machine the Ivel Agricultural Motor, it was light, powerful and compact. It had one front wheel, with a solid rubber tire, and two large rear wheels like a modern tractor. The engine used water cooling, utilizing the thermo-syphon effect which was common to most gasoline engines of that time. It had one forward and one reverse gear. A pulley wheel on the left-hand side allowed it to be used as a stationary engine, driving a wide range of agricultural machinery. The 1903 sale price was £300. His tractor won a medal at the Royal Agricultural Show, in 1903 and 1904. About 500 were built, and many were exported all over the world. The first two decades of the twentieth century saw a wide variety of tractor configurations. Prices were very high for these pioneering products and many failed to live up to expectations. Also, the small manufacturers were not able to fill orders rapidly and lacked outlets for their tractors. The 1917 introduction of the Fordson tractor was a turning point for the industry. Priced at $ 625 it was affordable, reliable, light weight, and Ford’s reputation and widespread dealer network made it an instant hit with farmers. Since Ford had massive production facilities, they were able to produce enough Fordsons to meet the demand. The post WW1 agricultural depression forced Ford to reduce the price of the Fordson to $ 395 to continue production. By the late 1920s the decision was made to cease tractor production and convert the Fordson production lines to automobiles for the Model-A launch in 1928. 1925 was a true milestone in the farm tractor world. International Harvester introduced the general-purpose tractor, the Farmall. With its high ground clearance, narrow front wheels, and reduced weight it was ideal for cultivating as well as ground preparation and harvesting. In 1930 IH was building over two hundred Farmalls a day despite the great depression. It wasn’t long before competitors, such as Deere, Massey-Harris, and Case introduced a ‘GP’ of their own. By the mid-1930s GPs were the dominant design for farm tractors. The swift mechanization of American farms that occurred during the late 1930s and early 1940s was on its way.

Most of you guys know the story and history of the 1976 B-80 I purchased new and converted to a C-160. In a nutshell the new K-341 that I installed around 1980 had at least a zillion on it and was very tired. A short time ago I purchased a fresh 341 rebuild and installed it. All was right with the world. Until my wife was mowing a few weeks ago. Something happened and it sounded like it was running out of fuel. She limped it back to the garage and I found the engine was seriously overheating. I shut it down and drained the oil. I checked for anything externally for anything that would cause the overheating and there was nothing. Cooled down I fired it up again. It sounded great.......until it started warming up. It started knocking pretty bad. To me it sounded like a valve issue not the rod. I parked it in the barn and pondered what I wanted to do. BTW, I drove it to the barn with the fuel shut off. As I sat there waiting for the fuel to run out the noise came back. Now I needed to ponder. We definitely need two mowing machines and the same for snow removal. The 854 doesn't count because the sickle bar stays on that. I browsed Craigslist looking for an engine or ????? That's when I came across the 96 314H with only 121 hours. I did a thread on it. It had only been used to push snow and there had never been a belt on the PTO. I paid top dollar for it but it looked and ran like a brand new machine and I knew what it was worth. # of seats solved. So....now what will happen to my beloved 76? Way too much history to get rid of it. Same for just letting it sit in the barn. Then it came to me. It was the tractor that I mounted the blower on in the winter. Now it's not needed for that. Why not come full circle and make it a B-80 again? Why not make it the year around blade machine and put the blower on the 2005 Classic in the winter? I'm liking that idea. So I posted a wanted ad for an 8hp engine. I'm not rushed to get a second tractor like I was earlier and I think the idea is kinda cool. Stay tuned for further installments. All plans subject to change on a moments notice.

He is really into history and the Civil War . He religiously spends countless hours in the battlefield with kids. It’s just that it is the first time he gets there on Wednesday rather than Thursday. He spoke to Randy Culley and it’s ok for him to drop trailer on Wednesday. Many thanks for number and suggestion @Ed Kennell.

Will not haul to show unless paid for

Like practically everyone, sheet metal welding confounded me. With some advice from an expert (basically the same as the above) plus a bunch of practice I got to “adequate": low setting, spots instead of beads, move fast (you can always come back!). The wire feed on my HF MIG 140 does help by starting the feed slowly until the arc is established before speeding up to my dialed setting. So quick dabs don’t cause a lot of extra wire. When I switched from flux to gas, it did take me a while to adapt even on thicker metal because the puddle looks different! Still, some days I can’t get a clean bead for anything and on other days the “stack o’ dimes” makes me feel proud!

@Sailman @19richie66 These are from a C-101 8 speed. If anything works for you, I can meet up with Richie and send them your way. Price will depend on how much paint it takes you to to match them to your tractor No money needed here.,.

Thanks for all your help chaps. Just bought a C-121, will report back once I've got it home.

No law against picking up a feather from the ground. I have a couple eagle feathers that I have found. Course I've heard hawk & eagle taste just like spotted owl.

🎵🎵 Take the laaast train to Clarksville and I'll meet you at the station 🎶🎶🎶

Here is a better photo of the woobie doobies that crimp connectors with wire and insulation barrels.

Kevin, bring your stuff with you. My hood has rust holes in the top front. I have a plow that @953 nut is meeting with @JPWH to drop off. If Richard has room, that would be best. @Sailman

Actually, I'm in the gate and in line at around 8 on Thursday, and I'm not the first there. There are those who do get there on Wednesday evening, but I think they have some special dispensation from the Pope.

OK, latest forecast for the weekend, It will be a cool hot sunny rainy windy calm afternoon all weekend! make the best of it and enjoy yourself.

I hope they stock the concession stand with plenty of ice cold water, like @Sparky said we are going to need it! Ice cream social is going to be nice when the sun goes down. Hot or not, I’m excited as usual! It’s become my annual pilgrimage. Looking forward to seeing so many of you that I have grown to know over the years, and meeting some new folks as well.

One year it was so sweltering hot, in the mid to upper 90s with high humidity and 0 wind. We needed the rain to try and wash away some of that old man BO mixed with exhaust fumes that was stuck on everything! LOL

I know it’s a ways out…but my weather app shows HOT days for Biglerville next Thursday thru Saturday. Better than rain ( maybe rain on Saturday)…but going to need sunscreen and drink plenty of water folks!

How big a boy are ya??? Lol

@19richie66 and @Pullstart. Can you 2 figure out the best option for the C-120 hood, steering wheel and belt guard between you two and let me know who gets paid what. I can send checks out Monday. @953 nut has graciously offered to meet me in my neck of the woods so looks like its a go! You can message me the details.

That would be great! Clarkesville has a couple nice restaurants...The Copper Pot, The Attic. I will work out the details with the guys with the parts and let you know. Be nice to meet some of the Red Square clan too!

Hope you got your tin drawers. Everyone is saying the show is going to be hot enough as is, your crotch is gonna need a heat shield riding that thing.

Never looked up your location before. I am about 85 miles from you and wouldn't mind meeting you half way some day after the Big Show. We could meet for lunch around Clarksville or someplace else, you pick the restaurant.

Great minds think alike.........I had just sent him a message asking if he was going. Will keep you posted.

Turns out @19richie66 is on other side of NC and goes down I-95 not I-85 so meet up with him does not look helpful. Still searching for someone going through Atlanta area and if so will try to have them bring parts this way. Will let you know if I need the parts. @19richie66 has parts too and can bring them to the show. Just need to find someone coming this way....

Just put a fresh Autolite 216 in the Horse. Fired right up, now to see how long it will last. Thank you gentlemen!

My C-160 was running fine with a little rattle for a long time. It finally got a little worse so I put a spare bullet in I had on the shelf. Opened it up and found this: You say you bought it as a "fresh rebuild." Was it bored? Lots of guys skip boring because the cylinder "looks good" A worn out of round cylinder will rear it's ugly head as the engine gets hotter.

Saturday is the last day.Starts wrapping up late morning. Ghost town by 2:00

Cee245 is correct : 520 frames are the same dimension-wise as all other 300-500 frames , the only difference is the swept axle. All 520's after 89 have the forward swept axle and require the plow extension if you want to turn angle the blade.

Bob, I’ve got a K-181 with a starter, regulator, all the works. No shaker plate mount, solid mount oil pan. I’ll send you pictures later

@ MIKES HORSE BARN , been using bolt on electrical lugs , for years , like the 3/8 bolt hole base , for solid connection in any traveling wire set up. industrial aluminum , is bombproof , especially good in engine tin areas , also retract wiring set up , added hangers cable carriers . helps make a problem go away , pete

I don't recommend soldering, for two reasons: 1) Solder is a poorer conductor than either the copper of the wire or the brass of the contact. A good tight crimp is a better connection. 2) Solder wicks up between the wire strands, creating a sudden transition between hard unyielding and flexible wire. In case of flex or vibration, it's more likely to break. If soldering was a good idea, they would have made the contacts with solder cups. Get a good crimper.

I might strap my dewalt fan to the hood of one of my tractor for some AC lol

I hope who attend the big show this year have a great time meet some old friends and have some good stories to tell. And most of all ENJOY THE RIDE.

You been listening to those red granite rocks. Our granite domes sure creak and groan.

It's against the law and federal law to be in the possession of bird of prey feather or parts unless you are native American used in ceremonies.

Don’t let them horses hear that they aren’t veehickels.

We had 38F this morning, where - yap where is the global warming??? somebody told me weather will turn to good if Angel travels. i hope that‘s true..😇🙏

I'll bring the guard I have. It may not be the correct one. The rear hole doesn't match up to anything on the trans to bolt on. It's a 2 piece trans.

I bet it’ll still change four or nine more times!

Air guide frame painted Engine block painted. Valve covers cleaned out using brake cleaner until screens looked clean and discs moved freely. Fly might be getting high from the fumes.

Keith, I don't know if this lift or parts of it will fit Wally, but it's yours at the show if you can use it.

I've had a little more progress this week. I cleaned up the parts that Jake sent me. They were all in good shape, but had some surface rust from shelf sitting. That was no big deal. The one shaft still had a bearing on it and I was having a hell of a time getting it to come off. I didn't have a bearing puller that fit properly, and didn't have a 2nd set of hands to help, so time to improvise.....and it popped right off. I don't think I've used that ball joint separator in 20+ years. Glad I still had it. I'm running out of parts to run through the E-tank.....Which is a good thing! The frame, rear wheels, and hood are really the only thing left that I haven't messed with. The other thing that I've been scratching my head about is the implement lift arm. This one has been cobbled together with some spacers, bent parts, and extra springs. Its pretty ugly It actually has a spring that goes around the plunger rod the full length of the rod and has a roll pin you can see there just as it exits the bottom of the tube. The spring is broken, and most of it is stuck in the tube, plus the rod is broken from where it was drilled off center for the roll pin. Good old PO fix for something that probably would have been easier to fix properly. Oh well. I pulled the rod, and small broken section of spring out. Then put the whole assembly in the E-tank. Hopefully it eats enough of the crud that I can remove the rest of that big spring. I didn't want to pull the rubber grip off, but then found this morning that they are still readily available. Getting that grip off without fear of damaging it should make fixing up the rod assembly a lot easier. I'm assuming I will make my own replacement push rod, as they don't look readily available. Speaking of making my own parts. I assume I will also be doing that with a replacement clutch rod and steering link. The ones on this tractor are deteriorated beyond use, but they are good enough to use as a template to make my own replacements. I'm just not sure if I want to go with mild steel or stainless. Actually, for the clutch rod and steering link, I may just use threaded rod and heim joints. I'm more interested in functional over correctness at this point. I can always revisit it later and replace with "correct" parts if I ever decide to go that route. On a happy note.....I did some reassembly. I pressed the new brass bushings into the differential case, and reassembled that part of the transmission. I shot a little oil on the moving parts and spun it by hand. Everything glides nice and smooth. That was a nice little win on the afternoon. Now I gotta get that drill hole I made in the side plate welded up and think about purchasing some primer and paint. I'm still fighting myself over if this is all going to be done with a rattle can or if I feel like tackling the learning curve of painting with a gun. At this point I'm leaning towards the can, but we'll see. Then I spent some time in the evening going over the exploded parts view, parts list, my bucket of hardware, and online sources for anything I need for reassembly. Surprisingly, I think I need very little, and most of what I need is readily available. The exceptions being, I need a set of front wheels and a seat. The rest is either regular run of the mill hardware store trinkets or available from sponsored venders here. So I'll be armed with a RJ shopping list for the big show next week.

I am looking for a ball hitch adaptor for a slot hitch or just a piece of ⅝” x 2” bar stock 8 or 9 inches long so I can make one. I have a sleeve adaptor already.

Flux and gas are very different beasts. I first learned to weld in 2000 in shop class with a stick welder and I could drop dimes from day one. I can almost never get it to look like that with gas. I can make good strong welds with my MIG, they just aren't nearly as pretty.

That's pretty wild Mike. I would have thought the piston would have totally come apart with that much damage. Gotta wonder about parts floating around. I doubt that I will pull the pan but I look at the cylinder wall. It did immediately start blowing smoke. Not a lot though.

Hey Bill, The frames are the same I believe and the reason for the extension is the extended (swept) front axle. 88/89 520's did not have the front swept axles. I think 90 only had the swept axle but no gear reduction. That came in 91-97. Your friend would need an extension bracket for a 96 520h. Cory

Left handed back scratcher

42" side discharge Drive belt 102742 replaced by 94-2501 (1/2" x 103") 48" side discharge Drive belt 102742 replaced by 94-2501 (1/2" x 103")

Doesn‘t matter how the weather is, as long as it is not below 60 F or even Snow.. ... everything above 65 F i be comfy with.

I'm not sure. Likely the OCD will kick in and I will. End play is at the high end as well so I could fix that at the same time.