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Some time ago, I saw an ad with a trailer full of Sears rear attachments, 3 pt garden plow, 3pt disc, 3pt rear blade, 3pt spike tooth harrow $125, 2 hour drive. Nothing too exciting. But then I saw this sleeve hitch Earth Excavator in the pile and immediately messaged him. I've had my eye out for one of these for quite a while. Went to pick it up and we talked probable an hour. Then he handed me $25 back, said gas money for driving so far. Fast forward, we've been doing a major addition at one of my sons' houses, and it was time to do some drainage dirt work around the new attached garage/shop. His soil is fairly hard black dirt, it works best with a little moisture, but not to wet. It rained 1.7" Monday, so Saturday I hauled the C160 and this Earth Excavator over. Rolled over with the 4 rippers down. i hades several ripper passes, they work fairly well. Sometimes it was a little hard to get the ripper to bite in. This would be nice on a 3point where you could adjust the center link to vary the ripper tooth bite angle. I was dragging material to build a pile in the corner of the yard I would make about 2-3 drag/dumps in front of my pile. The hydraulic lift sure worked nice to feather the rippers or box blade full of material up as it loaded up. Then I would turn around and use the back to push it onto the pile in the corner. My C160 has tire chains, 132lbs of wheel weight, fluid filled rear times and me on it, so plenty of traction. Worked about an hour, lifted it up and it fell back down! My lift cable snapped on the implement end right at the end of the swedge. The cable is about 5 years old and has been used very little. Maybe 5-6 hours of other rear implement use. This Earth Excavator is heavy and the rippers in use do add a pull/stretching load on the cable. I wonder what these cable/ are rated for? So I'll get another cable and try again. I need to pay attention to when I'm pushing backwards to make sure that's not somehow putting a bend/kink in the cable right at the clevis. I though I took more pictures, but I guess I was having too much fun. So more pictures when I resume this project.

There is a guy who has been bringing WWII half tracks to this show the last couple of years. Last year he brought one with a 50cal machine gun mounted on the back. This year he brought one with a different tool to show off. After dark he did a nice 60min demo for the crowd. With the light tipped at about 30 degrees and then rotating it round & round. In order for this demo to happen, the authorities had to be inform ahead of time. This guy owns around 40 of these half tracks. each set up in a different configuration. Looking forward to seeing what he brings next year. Off to the right in the above picture you may also notice a steam engine doing a spark show, his sparks are going about 30ft high.

The “Man on Tractor” logo In 1936 International Harvester hired a famous artist Raymond Loewy to redesign the letter series of their tractors. The result was so good that the management asked Loewy to also rethink the main badge. And this is how the famous “Man on Tractor” logo appeared: Loewy sketched it on a menu while riding on the train from Chicago to New York. However, it took some time for the company to change the official visual identity of the International Harvester, and the logo was introduced in 1946. The main part of the new logo consisted of two letters — the uppercase “H” in a massive bold sans-serif, drawn in black, and the lowercase “I” with square shapes, executed in red and placed over the “H”. The dot above the “I” was replaced by the square, which made the whole logo look masculine and strong. As for the “International Harvester” inscription, set under the emblem, it was written in all capitals of a simple and neat sans-serif typeface, in black. The letters were slightly narrowed and looked very modest, giving all attention to the black and red monogram in the center of the badge. The iconic “Man On Tractor” emblem was kept even after the acquisition of the brand by Navistar in 1986

I didn't make much of the show this year... medical appointments. Made an appearance on Friday with four including the first show with the Amigo. Dan camped and had four horses there. Little bit of what I got. @Achto get pics if the spotlight?

Guy climbing inside to change the carbon rods and clean the mirror. Pics I thieved off FB.

My son made part of his deck into a sun room, so I repurposed the deck boards into a trailer floor for my horse and bucket hauler. Then gave it a coat of a kerosene/used motor oil mixture.

Need to put a batman on it...

We got Colleen out of the field last night!

Or…

Thanks for the pictures Dan and Jim. Glad to see Rube Goldberg inventions are still around and going strong.

Did some painting yesterday! I used the new high flow setting on cans that have choice of 5 settings. Plus I painted the fronts too. And put primer on the tins.. Going to let in bake in the 90s several days this week.

I've sprayed dozens of items with Rustoleum Regal Red and sprayed the clear right over the wet final coat. Never an issue.

Curiosity got the better of me and I did some time searching the all-knowing inter web. It seems that several commercial implement manufacturers aim for around 1650 strokes per minute (~25 strokes per second) on a sickle--a stroke being a blade movement in one direction. If one full rotation of the input pulley on your wobble box yields one “out and back” that’d be two strokes. Given that, 825 RPMs in gets the “right" blade rate. The caveat here is that all the manuals I saw were for bars mounted on larger, liquid-cooled tractors which could run at ½ or ⅔ throttle safely. I’d think that on an air-cooled WH working under load that you’d want to run at least 2500-2800 RPM while still keeping the stroke rate from tearing the thing to pieces.

@Pullstart I know there's video... Inquiring minds need to know... er... see...

This afternoon Trina moved a trailer full of our own home made mulch to the garden. The chickens were out there to help.

Many years ago we took our 3 kids to a zoo like display of exotic birds where we could walk in the fly cages to see them up close. Our brats pointed out various birds calling them chickens. Other kids overheard the chicken comments and told their parents about the birds being called chickens, they really thought we were that dumb. To this day, every two legged feathered creature is called a chicken in our family. I wonder if hawks taste like chicken, we are overrun with the miserable squawking things.

Taste like chickin ?

Now the chickens are invading my office... Sandhill bachelors who missed out on a Love connection this year...

Looks like a pulling tractor to me! Head gasket is luckily an easy fix. Not a bad result for the maiden voyage of any tractor puller I'd say. Greetings from the Netherlands, Mark

I wouldn't worry about engine RPM either.Sickles do not use much HP. Old sickles were drawn by one or two horses. old troybilt tlllers had a front sickle and were 2.5 hp.

Not necessarily true. The only pullies that I'm sure are the original size are the engine pulley and the wobble box pulley. I have no clue about the two inbetween. If those two are different on yours the final speed would vary. That's interesting. If it translates to these little units I'm a bit slow. But I just go by the seat of the pants shake-o-meter and sound. As far as engine RPM goes, I've never bought into the minimum speed thing to keep airflow up or to splash the oil enough. I'll run full RPM when needed for a given attachment like a mower deck, snow thrower, etc. I've been running hours at low RPM's for over 6 decades and never had an issue.

OK guys. Just spent a few minutes with the tach. So much for my SWAG estimates. I'm running the engine at about 1840 RPM. Faster than it sounded to me. So, with the 2.5" drive pulley at 1840 makes the driven pulley at 920. But there's another reduction. The pulley centered directly under the engine is a drive pulley and is another 2.5". The belt from that goes around the 90° idlers to the 4" input pulley on the wobble box. That would be a driven pulley. That is turning at 512 rpm. I'm thinking that would be a good rpm to shoot for at the input of the wobble box.

I’ve not updated with video since February. Apparently I was tired of failure videos I’m working on it…

I did get a chance to hook up on Thurs & Fri. These were just fun pulls, not really a competition. I was quite happy with it's performance On Thurs., Hooked to the sled 5 times. Knowing that I had a fresh set of rings, I would shut it down when the engine would start to lug down hard. On Friday I pushed it a bit harder. Laid out the cash for 5 pulls. Each time that I hooked to the sled I moved weights around to try to see what each change would do. Just like the day before I was very happy with what it could do. THEN..... Towards the end of my 4th run I heard a bad noise & saw some debris fly out of the side of engine. Pulled the tractor back to camp to check the damage, After the head was removed, the damage was quite evident. Dis=heartening cause on Sat. I had to have the tractor running so that I could go through a tech inspection from the club that I am pulling with this year. @WHX?? Said that he had a gasket for me so I stopped by his house on my way to tech inspection & changed it out quick. Tech inspection was a breeze, passed with flying colors. I was also able to turn my engine speed up a little. It was at 3810RPMs, the new engine speed is 3987RPMs First points pull will be on the 13th of July.

You know when you're pretty sure that a surface is HOT, but you just can't help yourself from touching it to be positive?? It was kind of like that. Lesson learned....again.

Looks like a 1975-1980 model but will fit the C-175

Side door to my office... Hitchcock would be thrilled...

I used a broken rod engine for a mock up piece and built the rest of the exhaust. It should work out great!

FWIW: - 14ga in household wiring safely handles 15 amps at 120 volts --- that’s 1,800 watts. - 16ga handles 13 amps @120 volts -- that’s 1,560 watt. The strongest stators on a Wheel Horse generate no more than 20 amps at 15 volts --- that’s 300 watts. Save your money and the resources. 16 gauge is PLENTY.

Keep in mind that your sickle has several differences than mine. Here's the lift for the wobble box. @Pullstart That lift in the bar itself isn't really for adjusting the angle. It's just to lift it a few inches to clear an object. I don't think there was anything to actually set it at an angle. Here's my scientific method. This works fine but it does get in the way a bit on the taller stuff. It doesn't let it fall backwards easily. I spent a few hours mowing with it yesterday and was pondering that. Maybe an electric linear actuator mounted close to the wobble box?

Growing up during the town festival there was always one of those spotlight trucks at the entrance to the carnival to draw folks in at night.

I’m also going to guesstimate that between the 8 drive wheels and driven vehicles, we were tugging along with 33-35 thousand pounds!

Post it up any way you want…one big package or individual items. No rules on what’s best. My recommendation is to make a 520 package and a 267 package. The attachments don’t interchange so keep each machine and its attachments separate. And of course, please use the classifieds for selling when you decide to make the move.

This weekend has been a busy one. Yesterday we all started in moving firewood. I was having trouble moving because of the high humidity so i switched to working on the Mackissic chipper shredder. Trina and her momma kept working on firewood along with the garden and helping me do some shredding later. Today we did indoor work while it was raining. Started on the insulation in the new workshop.

Once again Dug saves my back, and me from a ton of aggravation! Moved table and chairs and accessories for the rent house up the slope!

Will this fit on a 62/63 year round hood Thank you

Yup! LOL This was a 12" X 3/16 drill bit and only grabbed it at the base to loosen the chuck a couple days ago. The carbide tip wore right off on rebar or something as I was pushing on hammer drill for a little bit. ALMOST THERE! LOL Seared and actually puffed a little smoke off the fingers too. I thought it would be hot, BUT not that hot! LOL

Front quick hitch introduced in 1973. Snowthrower rear frame has a 5/8" diameter round bar. 1973-74 model 6-6212 plus 6-9113 1974 model 6-6213 - (First model to include 8-0221 extensions without the front straight return - just a flat plate) 1975 model 6-6214 - (First model to include 8-0221 [103552 replaced by 93-1617 and 93-1617-01] side extensions with the front straight return. First model to have a cable spool on chute rotating crank) Chute crank support decal 104461. 1976 model 6-6215 ------ Chute crank support decal 104461. This one - 1976 model 66-42ST01 - Chute crank support decal 104461. and this one are likely identical. The model number format changed. 1977 model 76-42ST01 - Chute crank support decal 104461. This one 1978 model 86-42ST01 - Chute crank support decal 104461. and this one 1979 model 96-42ST01 - Chute crank support decal 104461. and this one may be all the same. They started using a different model number for each model year. 1980 model 06-42ST01 - (Last 42" model to use 4 grooved rollers for the chute) 1981-82 model 06-42ST02 - (First model to use plastic collar for the chute but was a retrofit for older models. Last model to use wheels) 1983 model 06-42ST03 - (First model to use skids) 1984-87 model 06-42ST04 - (Last model to use a 3/4" diameter driveshaft) 1987-89 model 06-42ST05 - (First model to use a 7/8" diameter driveshaft) 1990 model 06-42ST06 - (Last model to use a cable to turn the chute) 1991-93 model 06-42ST07 - (First model with tall chute retained by 3 individual grooved retainers) 1993-2001 model 79360 - (2001 and earlier will fit 2002-2007 with kit 105-1503) (1994 first year for replaceable blower housing scraper bar) 2002-2007 model 79362

$100 seat sold, won't let me update original post

Called an elbow latch item #45 and no longer available from Toro. https://www.partstree.com/models/07-11bc02-toro-37-easy-twin-rear-bagger-sn-010000001-019999999-1991/300-series-easy-twin-rear-grass-bagger-37-in-94-cm-mower-vehicle-identification-number-07-11bc01-3/ You need a big magnet on wheels to drag the lawn in search of steel.

A to Z will have a box full of these at the show. New.

Was it a family task?

I’ve (probably foolishly) tested my lift by standing on the sleeve hitch and having it move my 200+ lbs up and down. So far no injuries. Basic dry soil without big rocks weighs about 100 lbs. per cubic foot. That excavator looks to hold maybe 2 cubic feet?

I was pulling my 6' York rake, regrading where the septic system was installed, with the C-160. My lift cable broke also , right at the very end where the bung was attached to the hitch. I've got to replace that. Mine was original to the tractor, so that makes it @50 years old. That rake is pretty heavy so I'm not sure if I over did what the cable was able to handle, or just that it was so old.

This seller (Kelly Hollister) isn't like that and I personally know him as many on this forum do to since he sold a lot of parts previously but got out of it and sold everything off.. he went through and cleaned out the carb and got it running for me as I was originally buying it as a none running tractor but he got it going but told me the switch was funny back when he did use the tractor. I would believe this from "most sellers" but this guy isn't one of them.. he even said if I had any issues with the tractor to let him know and he'd be willing to stop by and help. I just don't want to bother him since he is really busy this time of year with racing and I like to "try" fixing things myself first anyay as that is how we "I" learn things. Thank you for the PDF info.. I'll look through this stuff you mentioned. I have heard these 520's can have some wiring issues etc.. and have their quirks and since I've not messed with them before now I thought I'd ask here as maybe this is somewhat common on these and someone might know exactly where to point me to the problem, so I guess I'll look things over good and go from there. Appreciate everyone's feedback so far..

I'm sure you know that lift is only to lift it over an object, not raise it up to the vertical position. Your tractor life raises the wobble box and you manually lift the bar vertical to the transport position. It's held there with a bar connected to the tower. I use a chain. You do have a lot more wear at a critical area. It was probably slipping off multiple times because the slop wasn't taken out. I rarely even lower the wobble box because 95% on my mowing with it is done at about a 45° angle. I do mow under a few large pine trees with the bar down but I still don't lower the box.

I got the sickle mounted on the tractor It looks good to me so far Looks like the lift lever mounted to the sickle is too sloppy to lift the bar in the last two pictures. Any suggestions how to fix it? Also, do I need to hook up the hydraulic lift to it? If so, how can I do it? Is it supposed to ride on the ground or do I need to somehow hold the frame up a little?

@Racinbob @c-series don @Lane Ranger How's this for slowing it down? 3.25 inches on the PTO and 8.5 inches on the driven shaft The pulley I got from amazon didn't have set screws so I had to get a longer bit from amazon to drill and tap for set screws. The belt I need measured to be 43 inches and that's coming Tuesday.