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Ohio Cultivator Co. The drudgery of walking behind a horse-drawn cultivator sparked a thought that led to the foundation of substantial farm machinery company. Harlow Case Stahl raised hops which require extensive cultivation. Cultivators of the day that worked only one side of a single row in each pass requiring horse and farmer to walk each side of every row. Stahl fabricated a wheeled machine that straddled the row and cultivated both sides in one pass and a hammock seat at the rear of the cultivator allowed the operator to ride while he cultivated. Stahl was convinced that other farmers would want to ride while they worked so he and a blacksmith built a prototype “Freemont Cultivator” and took it out to area farmers to demonstrate his new invention. In 1878 he built 85 riding cultivators and sold 81 of them. By 1882 sales were over 1,000 Fremont Cultivators and production was exceeding his small factory’s capabilities. In Bellevue, Ohio, an abandoned barrel plant had been empty since 1880 and became the new home of Freemont Cultivators. Another manufacturing company began building a cultivator also named the Fremont. Rather than going through the courts to fight them Stahl changed the name of his machine to the “Famous Ohio Cultivator.” At its beginning the plant was only in operation the first few months of each year since cultivator demand lasted only a few summer months each year. As the demand for Ohio Cultivators increased Stahl was able to produce them year-round to have an ample supply each spring. Stahl was also a shrewd marketer. In the late 1890s, he sent a salesman with a boxcar full of implements to Kansas, where they all were sold. In 1901, a 40-car train loaded with Famous Ohio machinery was again sent to Kansas. This time the boxcars were draped with large banners advertising Ohio Cultivator Co., while American flags flew from each car. Stahl, company officials and the Bellevue city band accompanied the train as far as Toledo. At each town the train stopped, the band played and crowds of spectators gathered to watch the spectacle. The Bellevue Gazette wrote: One couldn’t imagine the cost of sending this train to Kansas, the freight bill alone amounted to $4,000. As this monster train moves through the country, villages and populous cities, it will be a big advertisement not only for Ohio Cultivator but Bellevue. Stahl began a long-term program to broaden his manufacturing line. In 1896, he bought a Dayton, Ohio, disk harrow plant, and the Bellevue Plow Co. in 1899. The Ohio Haypress Co. was added in 1900, and the Bissell Plow Co. of South Bend, IN, in 1905. Now 300 men worked for Ohio Cultivator Company. Ohio Cultivator acquired 59 patents including a 1905 redesign of the hay press and a ditch digger device in 1914. In 1923, Stahl acquired the D.M. Sechler Implement & Carriage Co. of Moline, IL, along with its Blackhawk line of planters and grain drills. By 1927 Stahl was virtually retired and the general manager Daniel Seltzer ran the day-to-day business. That year, Seltzer negotiated the purchase of the Non-Pariel Manufacturing Co. of Cochranton, PA, builders of lime-and-fertilizer spreaders; the Angell Plow Co., Plains, KS, builders of disc plows; and the Thomas Manufacturing Co. of Springfield, Ohio, makers of grain drills and a full line of haymaking tools, including the Thomas two-speed mower. Following Stahl’s death in 1941 National Farm Machine Cooperative bought Ohio Cultivator. After WW II, the demand for new farm machinery was huge, and NFMC spent millions expanding the Bellevue plant, along with NFMC’s other plant in Shelbyville. When the machinery market began to cool about 1950, NFMC became financially overextended, and the firm went into voluntary receivership in 1952. Cockshutt wanted to build a marketing network in the United States so, in 1952, Cockshutt Farm Equipment bought the Bellevue and Shelbyville plants. Cockshutt continued to build the Blackhawk planter line, along with Famous Ohio manure spreaders and discs. However, by 1955, the Bellevue plant was closed, with all manufacturing moved to Canadian facilities.

Decided to take the rat rod out & make some noise!

8-3900 reproduction hydro pedal kits are ready! They will be available at our spot in the vendors buildings. Will come with instructions, all hardware, and both styles of footrest pads to match your application. $275.00 cash at the show.

Because of the massive rain the last few weeks, Grass raises like crazy. Leo is 77cm tall and this Pict is 4 day‘s old. so you can imagine how high our Grass is. For get a good place for the drone to start i need few smaller areas to mow ahead to fawn save. flight time is limited each battery to 20min so i need at least on 4 fields a way into and was allowed to mow me a small Way. To be able to cut it i thinkering it be probably a good idea to mount the Suicidal Discmower on the Beast. More clearance under it and lot‘s of light so i can mow me my Way even in the dark or night. as said - done Firstly i thinker about a Mounting hitch for the FEL. a 10mm thick Steelplate is the Baseplate on the euro mount. few cutted Pipes give me the ability to secure it but have it woobly mounted, so that it can follow in each direction to the Ground. tilt sideways is at 38 deg limited what is more than i need. One Bolt in the upper fix it in place that it have littl play. Than i attached the Oilmotor, it is a fast runner and i hope it has enough rpm to drive the discs as fast as they need. it‘s just a trial and error built, so i don‘t calculated much ahead. The belt describes a triangle, so if needed i can easily change the Pulley to change the rpm‘s. simple design hope it works. That thing looks dang dangerously but i had a small issue since today... While mowing the Hedge with my Hedgetrimmer on the Beast, i try to down the Hedge a little more, where brances up to 1,5cm thick be inside. Ok i be curious if the Hedgetrimmer was able to deal with that. about the Oilmotor i be shure he can handle it. So here we go..... When i was nearly finished, i heared a unregulary unknown „knocking“ noise. Curious what that was, i stopped the Beast and see this rip on the Oilmotor excenter... huh - not soooooo good - dang. it seems the cutting of that thick Brances overloads the mechanic little 😎 the Oilmotor does it‘s job very well so the question of it‘s power is now clear. (more than enough) ( it is the same oilmotor as i used on the disc mower.) but dang, 7 mm thick and 25mm wide flat steel rips that way???? ok, time to weld it again, but not before the Big Show. when i would set the Beast into the Shed it wan‘t fire up. Starter works, black smoke occurs but no more action was taken. i opened the fueltank cap and try - nothing i checked the fuel line - ok i checked the Airfilter - ok i checked the bowdens for foot throttle and hand throttle - ok After about 40 min in shadow i try it again, it fired on one cylindre that few seconds running the second cylindre fires up. i hope it‘s be just the valve setup, i never checked it because it still has not reached it’s timeline and it runs each time when i need and use it. i hope i will not regret.🤪🤐🤫

Got the sickle mounted Is it supposed to ride on the ground or do I need to raise the frame somehow? Looks like the lift lever mounted to the sickle is too sloppy to lift the bar in the last two pictures. Any suggestions how to fix it? Also, do I need to hook up the hydraulic lift to it? If so, how can I do it?

@Stepney has been a great supplier of many things Wheelhorse for me over the years. My first Wheelhorse tractor was his. The chassis for my Cinnamon Horse C160-8 was. My first hydro. More things than I could name. Well... a few weeks ago Spenser mentioned that it would be neat if he had a "parts" GT14. Don'tcha know maybe 2 or 3 days later @PWL216 Paul, also a great supplier to me, said he had some tractors to rehome. I bought 3. One was Spenser's desired GT14. Well we done some swapping and trading and bartering. I ended up with this Mackissic chipper shredder model 12P. The side of this one is slightly different from my other one (currently in restoration) because it has 3 small holes to access the knife. @gwest_ca mentioned in another thread that may make it an earlier model. Well today I spent some time getting it hooked up to my Cinnamon Horse C160-8 and trying it out for the first time. I swapped the belt tensioner flat pulley. I only had a belt that was technically too long (several actually) so I drilled a new hole for the tensioner to bolted through. It seemed to work well. Needed the anvil to knife clearance adjusted. Here's the first load in Trina's trailer. Note that there's a fair amount of longer sticks on the ground AFTER they've gone through the machine. I wasn't using any screen. I removed the anvil. Cleaned it up. Here's where it mounts. For installation I used a home shop made tool to get the 1/16" spacing correct. This is the second pile. MUCH better with the screen and proper knife clearance.

2 ways gas gets into the oil. Thru the pump or washing by the rings with a flooding carb. You would have noticed the carb issue right off the bat. You can bypass the pump and run it gravity feed to a half tank and recheck the oil. If the oil is ok reconnect the pump. Run it some more and if the oil gets gassy it's the pump. Also new tight bore with increased pressure and vacuum could have overwhelmed an old previously good diaphragm.

Download the manual for your deck and completely follow the installation instructions. You will see that the deck wheels need to be set to the position that raises the deck the most, and the deck needs to be leveled using an adjustment at the center rear of the deck. There should be a model number on deck, if not post a photo so we can help you find the correct manual.

If you want to try the Necco wafers in oil they have them at "Cracker Barrel".

It's quite likely the cleaners in the MMO got some extra stuff off the inside of the block. I'd take that as a good sign but I'd also be prone to another quick run & change in the next few hours of run time. For $10-$12 worth of oil it'd just make me feel better.

20240608_053458.mp4 Gonna change oil and take plow off before I take her around the yard for.a spin. Started right up! Thanks for the encouragement all!

There are no "injectors" so avoid that "mechanic." 100% second that. It sounds to me he‘s not any kind of mechanic, he’s just a Seller or an extrem young (less than 30 years old) „industrial wrencher“ they don‘t learn how to fix things, they learn how to sale lot‘s of unneeded parts to solve a 2$ fix. @lynnmor suggestions be the way to go. Even if you never worked on a wheelhorse before, everybody can learn everything. so even you can learn to do the basic maintaining on your Wheelhorse. it is no Witchcraft, it‘s just bit of Work and willing to solve that and the help from this Forum you be quicker finished By yourself than this Seller can write the Bill. ok a two sided lefthander has it lill bit more complicated to learn things, but it is possibly.

Actually never sold anything on social media sites or otherwise. Frankly, I have never had to fix anything on my Wheelhorse with the exception of oil changes, transmission fluids and plug changes. I do have blades sharpened every other year. I have cleaned carb's but not an expert and do not know how to tune them. My comment on injectors was reference to the spring valves or jets, not fuel injectors. Regardless, this has sat in the barn and I just want to make sure it continues to work for me. Greasing zerks and tune up is sill something I will have done. Will also run the Seafoam to see if that rectifies the surging. Will also list the 2 stage blower for what was recommended on here to be worth around $4-500..thank you all for the feedback

Sickles run on the ground the inner shoe and outer shoe have some adjustment (not much) to get cutting heights The implement lift (left side) handle raises the whole unit a few inches. then you can pull the cutter bar all the way up and hook it to the hood stand for transit. The unit I have sold to pullstart was rigged to raise the cutter bar hydraulically. Not the same as the implement lift that brings the whole unit up off the ground ..That was still manual and took some effort... Some pics on the closed for sale add

Here's a link to a list we put together for several levels of checking over a tractor. It's broad and covers multiple types. We've reached a point because of ethanol fuels that many (most?) machines need the ENTIRE fuel system either replaced or correctly cleaned as part of the routine maintenance. Remove and replace ALL fuel line. Remove and clean fuel tank. Replace fuel tank outlet and grommet. Remove and rebuild (clean) carburetor AND FUEL PUMP. I put caps there for a reason. Fuel pumps seem to be ignored too often lately. It's likely your tractor will be happy to perform once that's done.

@cafoose Let me start by saying that I’m far from an expert on these things. I’ll tell you what I do know, I hooked mine up to the manual lift using it mostly for transport. The little bit that I used it I lowered the main frame down and ran the bar on the ground. However in the area I was cutting I knew there was nothing to hit, like rocks, broken off metal fence posts etc. I never really messed with it enough to see if I could run it off the ground, say 6” or so? That’s probably how I would want to run it if I was going to seriously use it. I bought mine for two reasons, I am a collector of all things Wheel Horse! So as most of us know a sickle bar is a rare attachment, and when one became available to me I had to buy it. The second reason was that my wife and I have this dream of someday owning a small farm and I would use it around there. That will probably never happen, but if it does I’ll be ready with 18-20 Wheel Horses. All with different attachments ready to go to work 😂👍🏻

I am not a doctor but I am very patient! Sounds like your patient is suffering from fuel starvation. First step would be to remove the fuel hose from the tank and drain it then give it a visual inspection. It there is ant derbies in the tank it can prevent fuel flow. Install a new fuel hose with filter and verify that you have fuel flow from the tank to the fuel pump. DO NOT use gas with ethanol in it, this site will guide you to stations in your area that have pure gasoline, https://www.pure-gas.org/ Now connect the fuel line to the pump and confirm that toe pump is functional. Next step should be a thorough cleaning of the carburetor. OH, one more thing we request of all new members;

Got out on the lake yesterday and had one of my best limits of walleye/saugeye! In Oklahoma you can keep 6 with a 14" min slot. These six are 19.5-23"! Can't believe I culled a 18.5"! Never thought it would happen. Looking forward to a great fish fry!

When the wings are worn off so much that a side discharge deck doesn't discharge out the side anymore? Yeah I think it's time.

I'm just thinking, Bob is really knowledgeable about engines. I would not sell him short knowing that he did the rebuild. It would be the simple explaination that I would look for. Change the oil and run it...do it so you know the history. Bob, did you really try to light the gas on the oil?? Can you burn leaves in New Jursey??

At this point his 416 is being cantankerous, uncooperative and undependable. He, the 416, is exhibiting its femininity. Once he has been shown some love and attention HE will exhibit more masculine characteristics. Hope my wife doesn't see this post.

After that i can not sit still arround and while it was raining now and the Beast was in the Shed i decided to check at least the valve gap and remove the valve cover to do so. Inside i found all intake Valve rocker screws become loose - Don‘t ask me why - I let the Engine rework at an Engineshop back in 2015 when i bought the Beast. The engine Guy told me i should not do anything on the valve drive because it was set to its optimum. I was now able to twist the screws simply with bare hands. ok that could be the Problem and it‘s easy to solve. So fix grab the feeler gauge and set valve gap as it should be. 0,25 the intake 0,35 the outlet valves as i have described in my Documentation. The moment of truth. i tried it without a preglow and it fires right up with a big black cloud of smoke and than smoke reduces to normal. Few throttlepulls later the Engine becomes a smoothly idle. Again a check about the Valve rocker screws - tight. Than i close the Valve cover, pull on the oil drain pipe and jump into the Seat. Flicking into 6th Gear and have a ride to the Dump with it’s filled FEL ( with all branches of the Hedge) i love my new big Bucket with it’s bigger load capacity. It runs as smoothly as never before and fires right up without preglow with a gently tickering sound i never heared before.. Before it sounds more like a hammering and felt i would say the gap before was too much. the Engine also becomes feeled much more agility. It was the first time i checked myself the valve gap after rework of the Engine back in 2015. Even on my ride to the dump it runns much smoother than before and rev now much quicker. Maybe the base settings was not that optimum before as the guy told me and it feels it have much more punch when i drive uphills. Be Happy👍😇

857 with new to me 23x10.50's that came off a 73 14hp no name auto that followed me home thursday lol...... Can't believe I forgot to take pics of the 14hp no name....

First thing it is not a "she" and not a feminine product like is sold at big box stores. Since it may be starving for fuel, remove the fuel line at the fuel filter and direct it into a container to see how much it pumps while cranking the engine. Of course take all precautions to prevent a fire.

This group is a great bunch of folks. Keep asking questions. Keep trying minor and larger repairs and maintenance. We'll all help you out. My Other Half and I knew approximately next to nothing about Wheelhorses 7 or 8 years ago. Thanks to all the people on this website we've now done full frame off restorations on 5 tractors and partially restored or rebuilt several other tractors.

Very dark for under 2 hours of run time.

Yeah, but there's that other guy here who goes nuts for them. Or so I've heard.

Roofers showed up at 6:30 this morning and finished the roof about 1:30. Also had to replace about 125 sq feet of plywood and add plywood for the lean to. Now I need to add gutters. Old roof. New roof

There are no "injectors" so avoid that "mechanic." Drain the fuel tank and fuel lines, replace the grommet in the bottom of the fuel tank and clean or replace the shutoff valve, replace the 1/4" rubber hoses with ethanol resistant hose. Replace the fuel filter. Use fresh gasoline when ready to start. Spraying the butterfly will do exactly nothing, spraying carburetor cleaner down the five holes around the the air filter mounting can help. Keep in mind that anything sprayed in the carburetor might find its way into the oil, you may have already contaminated the oil necessitating an immediate oil change. Fresh oil goes into the crankcase and fresh gasoline goes in the fuel tank, no snake oil should be used other than a bit of cleaner mentioned above. After running it for some time and the surging continues calls for more work. The most likely issue is gum, dirt or corrosion inside the carburetor and the only way to clean it right is to remove it and that entails some work since the exhaust and intake needs to come off. Before pulling the carburetor, spray WD40 around the split in the intake manifold while the engine is running to see if there is any effect. Also look for a missing welch plug just above the idle mixture screw. Download the Onan Service Manual for all the information you need. The welch plug can be seen in figure 2 on page 7-2 just above the idle fuel limiter cap. While the intake is off would be a good time to adjust the valves, I would bet that it was never done. As you go along, report back here for more information. Yes, there is some normal maintenance to be performed and once done should give years of life to the tractor.

Front End Friday, nut roaster edition

OoPEZoO: the truck was all Dad... see my other reply. She's been well used towing small excavators, kubota and campers - I'm paying for that use now with turbo replacements and a tone of other maintenance as the odo approaches 170K but it would be very hard to replace the package so we'll be together for some years to come! (I think he gave ME to the truck - lol)

Good looking truck Pullstart! It's actually an F150 (2011) Heavy Half Ton. Long story but my dad built it before they were shipping and originally had a diamond plate "tonneau" very similar to yours on it to haul his ATV while towing camper. As time went on he stepped up through several iterations to a Honda 1000 UTV and had this bed built. I had a 2006 F150, 5.4L and he kept telling me he was going to give me his... to which which I always chuckled and said you'll be driving it for another 20. Well, he got a very quick cancer 3 years back and a day or two before he passed he smiled and said "told ya you were getting the truck". Well, I get to talk about Dad a lot because so many people comment on the truck, lol. She pulls like a mule, I have a 38" toy hauler and an HD Electra-glide and it's no sweat and when I got a flat on the camper it was nice to have the floor jack, impacts and other goodies he left in one of the compartments. Yes, the sideboards are ramps as well... BTW: Dad was a Gravely walk behind fan and I have the one he bought new in 1974 - used it to pull my new WH across the yard last night, he always said the old WH's were great, my grandfather had one in the 60s/70s when I was young. It was very well washed and waxed as I remember, we used to pull each other around in the trailer he had. Buying this 1054 is bringing back some memories.

Here are the "as bought" pictures now that it's in my garage. Bought battery, oil, and hydraulic/drive belts at TSC this morning. Forgot to get a plug. The project begins.

He also had another set of (dry rotted) turf tires on rims for it, I believe you are right which means the tractor and I both turn 60 next year which is cool. There is no serial number tag under the steering wheel so this may be as close as we get. Thanks!

Update on one of our ongoing projects. We are progressing further in the restoration of the porch on our 1914 house in Mo. I've gotten the brick porch railing with stone caps put together. Got started on continuing the brick columns to match the pilasters on the house today. Just 378 more bricks to go. Trick will be to keep the columns vertical. Got a lot of small finishing details to tend to as well. Talked with our friend who is also a landscaper on Tuesday. Got him lined up for this fall. Got to get a concrete contractor lined up to replace the front walk before then.

This statement;( "She starts, but choked and only on full throttle, otherwise she floods out.") makes no sense. Flooding means too much fuel is getting in and the need for the choke means not enough fuel. Regardless, it appears that the carburetor needs to be properly cleaned. The information can be found in the Onan Service Manual.

hello c-series don, fantasic blackhood!!! regards mike

Well that’s settles it…tomorrow I’ll get it good and hot and drain it. Thanks guys!

OK - my two MMO sucess stories.... Chevy Vega - motor # 2 of 3.... Cold February day, collaped lifter, running on 3 ish cylinders. Drained a 1/2 quart, tossed in a bottle of MMO - 5 minutes it idles just fine - AND, it smells like NECCO wafers!!! Saturn SL1 - seems that the oil rings ARE designed to spin on the pistons!!! They sludge up, stop spinning and oil consumption shoots up.Per the service writer at the now long gone Saturn dealer - Position the car in the garage with tailpipe facing the door,,,,, pull the 4 plugs, add 1oz of MMO in the holes, let sit overnight to "wash" the rings. In the morning, spin the motor over with rags over the plug holes to catch any splash. Install plugs, fire it up until the white smoke goes away.... Performance goes up, oil use goes down.... They used to get $150 a pop for this "service".

I go every year to the dermatologist office Covered mostly by Medicare... The PA does a whole body check and burns off 2-3 precancerous spots most times Best thoughts and wishes for your mom...

Been a looooong time since I used any chemicals. I like the idea of leaving it in a couple hours and changing.

Could be the camera angle, buy that inner hyd pump belt looks too wide for the pulley. Should be 3/8x48. BTW, I was mistakenly looking at the 1045 manual where I saw the 70" drive belt. The 1054 and 953 manual lists the 82" belt. Looking at this pic again, that belt looks fairly new. I'm wondering if the PO tried to install a new 1/2x82" transmission belt and had trouble getting it on the larger pulley and just put it on the smaller inner hyd pump pulley.

HAPPPPY BIRTHDAY

The 953/1054 series garden tractors were a true slap in the face to the green and yellow brands back in the day! Hi ground clearance, big fuel tank, super duty front axle, frame and rear Unidrive, big heavy front cast nose grille and hydraulic lift on a gear drive platform. You might say I’m a fan of ‘em!

I'd be happy to provide my address if he wants to wash a few more! Beautiful machines Don!

I took a few pictures of a spare steering wheel and the too short poorly drilled upper steering shaft. This is the wheel with roll pin removed. This is the bottom of the steering wheel showing how the shaft simply slides into the wheel then the roll pin goes through the hole to retain it. This is the bad shaft showing what it looks like disassembled. Biggest issue with getting the wheel off is the roll pin being rusted in and also the steering wheel getting stuck onto the shaft due to corrosion.

Work Horse GT-1600 got ‘er out… Back on high ground…

Not what I did, but my kid. Jada, I’m proud of you!