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I put one of Denny Clarke’s fantastic Lawn Rangers to work the last couple of days trying to smooth out a wet ditch that I have rutted up when I’ve been mowing it. This little thing is a beast. @dclarke

Power Take-Off (PTO) During the early days of agricultural mechanization, the rotation of an implement’s wheels transferred rotational force to the mechanism to power a cutting blade, planter mechanism, hay elevator, side delivery rake, or thrasher. If soil conditions were unfavorable the machine wouldn’t work very well, if the ground speed of the animals pulling the device changed the effectiveness of the implement was reduced. It was still better than performing these operations by hand but there was room for improvement. As tractors became more plentiful many stationary implements that had been powered by separate engines could now be operated with the flat belt pulley on the tractor. With the greater power and versatility offered by a tractor more backbreaking tasks were mechanized. Grain thrashers, hay presses, silage cutters and blowers could all be made larger and more efficient because of higher powered tractors driving them. However, the field work continued to be done with the same ground driven implements that had been pulled by horses. There was no practical way to harness the engine’s power to improve the efficiency of these implements. The first commercially successful power take-off (PTO) shaft attachment in the U.S. was made available for the International Harvester Corporation, IHC 8-16 in 1919. Now there was a third way to transmit tractor power. International Harvester emphasized this by advertising its later 10-20 and 15-30 models as “triple-power tractors. This new feature provided a competitive advantage for IHC but it was short-lived because soon other tractor manufacturers offered PTOs. Driven by the tractor engine the PTO powered implements, rather than being power by a rolling wheel which ceased transmission if the vehicle stops traveling, and the workload's resistance tends to make the wheel skid rather than turn, even if cleated. The concept of a shaft drive with easily connected and disconnected couplings, and flexibility for driving at changing angles (such as when an articulated tractor-and-trailer combination turns), was a wonderful advancement.

I think you need to place the rod in the left hole with the bushing and push it far enough that the right side can be placed in the right hole. Slide the bar to the right and installed the e-ring retainer on the left side of the rod.

Show time next week , well kind of any way. I will have a chance to do some practice runs as well as have the tractor teched to ensure that it is with in the rules. Given this fact I figured that I best get the finishing touches on it. The final required piece was the fire extinguisher. held it up in several locations & finally settled on this one. Easy to get to with little to no operating interference.

I thought everyone still has their Farrah poster. Mine still hangs proudly.

I got this C-161-8 roller from my dad and a motor from a worn-out 416-8. It runs really smooth and looks pretty sweet, too!

@Pullstart truck air conditioning.

You are correct! That was the first thing that I hung up in my garage. When I first hung it up my wife said “ oh no you don’t” I said yes I do ! I told her that she doesn’t understand, this woman hung in my bedroom when I was a teenager. I had a relationship with her, a hands on relationship. 👋🤣At that point she probably called me a jerk or something and went back in the house. No I don’t have Farrah, but I do want one. However I do have Heather Thomas, and yes I had a relationship with her too when she hung in my room as a teenager. 😜🤣 And yes of course, stainless steel hardware!

Is it too early to start loading up for the big show?🤦‍♀️

Mike just trying to figure out how much space we have. Taking the new toy hauler/camper which only fits a few. Boy is hauling the 18’ open down in his truck. Imagine that! I think we all remember his when he was still a toddler at the show🤦‍♀️

The reactor heads on all commercial nuclear reactors have to be replaced periodically due to hydrogen embrittlement. For the past twenty five years all of the reactor heads have come from China because the US has shut down all of the large foundries that had the capacity to produce them. Well intended legislation allower regulators to force these foundries out of business rather than working with industries to find ways to continue operating while reducing pollution. The foundries in China probably are not as environmentally friendly as the US plants that were shut down, we haven't reduced pollution, we have just relocated it. If China decides they don't want to sell us reactor heads or EV batteries or perscription drugs or whatever else we are dependant on them for then we have given them that opportunity, they haven't taken it from us. Four years ago during COVID we couldn't get basic supplies for our health care worker because it all had to come from China, remember that? Unless our government decides to work with industry rather than closing them down we will be cutting each other's hair, about 40% of American men are bald or balding so that math doesn't work too well. OK, now I will get down from my soap box.

You have a heirloom that should never leave the family. Replace the tires and go thru EBs check list with your son. He will use the 308 for 50 years and eventually give it to your Grandson.

Free buzz cuts!

Nicely explained, Garry!

You could get brand new tires for a little over $50 each? And as mentioned 23 x 8.5 or 9.5 or 10.5 x 12 will fit on those rims https://www.walmart.com/search?q=23x8+5+12+tractor+tire Put tubes in the original tires maybe Or find them used like this https://albany.craigslist.org/grd/d/clifton-park-lawn-tractor-rims-and/7750219540.html

We have a small display area for the garden and we are doing a kind of beach scene for the D-Day theme. I made three tank obstacles to put in there, large to small to make it look like they go on for miles.

You will want to use numerous applications of PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil (not WD-40) on the 1/4-20 bolts that connect the straps under the tank. They have been quite content where the are for sixty years and will ruin the straps if you fight with them.

I know that's not @Pullstart's truck... the fan is not mounted to a ... AI generated fake news...

Both! Get the old one going, and keep an eye out for more!

'Fish beat me to it. If you even just have the basic tools & a garage no better way to teach your boy some mechanical skills. Plenty of help here along the way.

I was going to get it for my son, perfect for fall clean up & I can have the C-81 I gave him back, ( almost feel naked without at least 4 of them )

Here's my advice Look for a decent running used one to buy now so you can get rolling doing the chores. For the 308-8 -- Spend some time with your son resurrecting his grandfather's machine. He'll have more appreciation for it and learn more about machines and how they work. Then you can decide to sell it, keep it, give it to your son etc. Look for a garden tractor like your 308-8 but nothing wrong going bigger more powerful. Yes you could easily find someone here to take it for free. As far as sitting, I just recently picked up a B-80 that was sitting in an open front shed for 25+ years. (Maybe even more) Had it started up and driving in less than 2 days. It's not necessarily ready for working hard yet and still needs some maintenance things done and checked but these machines are tough

Welcome!! Hard to go wrong with a properly preserved Wheel Horse... DO look over the compiled Document about New to Herd WH Tractor Checklist. Full of Do's and Dont's for a new owner....

Got one side panel, foot rest, fender pan and the seat mounted up today. New double bulb taillights as well. I’m getting closer! New drive belt should be in today, then I can install that and put the right side panel and foot rest on. Sorry the pictures are cloudy, I need a new phone case!!

In 1964 I bought a new foreign made car. Two years later I sold the piece of junk and vowed to only buy USA . I stood on that same soap box for 60 years Richard. They all said " I can not afford to buy American". Me " You can not afford to buy anything but American" We are all about to pay with more than a few dollars.

For sale an original shape 1045. New carb and tie rods and a seat cover. It's rewired and runs good. Rebuilt transmission with some replacement gears, all new bearings and seals. $700 SOLD Also have some steering wheels. Off brand $10 This one is like the one I have on my 854 and the Raider $30

I wanna know what this installer has against tall people!

Need to thin the herd so here's some offerings. Got these when I bought a wheel horse lot. Hopefully more to add later. Raider 9. Needs total restoration, rough but salvageable. Seat garden included. $135 Raider 10. Really rough, hood and seat is junk, moves and steers. Haven't tried to start. $100 Charger 12. Salvageable but rough. $135

The son of my weekender neighbor runs a landscape lawn business out side Philadelphia. The grass at the weekend place was way too tall for the old 856 his Dad uses, So he brought up a battery Zero Turn it cleaned it up and other than getting stuck by the pond no problem. He has electrified his whole fleet Zero turns to weed wackers,. He has solar panels mounted on all his trucks to charge the spare batteries during the day, and a charger bank at his shop to top off everything at night.

Sort'a like go'n too deep in the field with bus.

And to think that all I was curious about is where other WH owners live. I think the topic has changed. To those who answered the original post, the best was to check out the WH owners map. Thanks for all your replies. It's nice to see that people read our posts. Paul

Hello! I am a new member looking for advice to get a working Wheel Horse back in my life. When I was about 7 or 8, my dad got the family a new 308-8. Within a few years, I joined my brothers in using the tractor for mowing chores. It got a mix of abuse, maintenance, and neglect for 24 years or so, and never let us down. Since then, family commitments have gotten in the way and it's been pure neglect for old horse. The maintenance of my mom's property has fallen to landscapers whose fees were at first reasonable, and are now absurdly high (she lives in an area that has been largely taken over by NYC weekenders and remote-workers, which has driven up rates). I now have a little more time and a son who is getting into his 'mowing years'. I want a functional garden tractor for my mom's property again. It would be used for regular mowing, what I'll call 'rough mowing' (keeping brush I've cleared recently down), and pulling a cart. I considered a few different options before recognizing that I won't be satisfied or happy using a different kind of garden tractor. My first thought was to fix up the old one (it was run dry, stored in a garage, and it was always easily brought back to life in the past). The obvious problem is that it needs 4 new tires. New that seems like a few hundred bucks unless the rims are too rusted. I found a listing for 4 used rims and tires for 100. The next problem is I don't really know how much will have gone wrong after it sitting for 10 years. Now I'm looking at used listings, and it looks like working Wheel Horses can be had for 500 and up, most of which are more powerful than our old one. The second option seems more sensible to me, but I am open to advice on the topic. Can someone point me to a post describing what a good pre purchase inspection should include? Will I find someone here to give the old one to (free) to save it from the scrapyard? Any models to avoid for reliability or parts availability concerns? Thanks for taking the time to read this and for any advice!

I'm still in the cleaning and prep stage lol

Got some new rubber in for the rear!

Here is an exploded view of the lift system. There are several attachment points on the rock-shaft.

Welcome!! Pictures of the issue would be a great help. Download both manuals - the tractor and the 36" deck to make sure you have the correct parts. Curved front gear driven deck???

@PH707 ! Consider becoming a member as there’s a wealth of information and knowledge on here . There’s usually someone on here that will answer your questions and few threads that get lots of attention . We also love pictures and being a member sure makes that that easy . Add that dealership to our registry as they weren’t many Horses west of the Mississippi River let alone a Dealership .

Search for "fine ribbed rubber matting" and choose from numerous suppliers.

That and a more comfortable feel are why all mine get a vinyl or rubber cap.....

To give you even a little more shopping range I run a 23x 9.5 x 12 on a 312-8 which is the same basic tractor

the body lines indicate it’s a blue oval. That in itself is good enough reason to say it probably ain’t mine!

Agreed. "CCA" maybe on the package. Depending who you ask, that stands for copper clad aluminum or copper coated aluminum. Either way I don't use it. 100% copper. Preferably fine strand.

As @ebinmaine notes, this is very straightforward on the tractors of this era. There are wiring diagrams in the files for the 854 -- the original version without a solenoid in the starter circuit and an updated version with the solenoid plus accessories like lighting and a voltmeter. Download and look ‘em over and come back with questions. I’ll note that you’ll often hear shade tree mechanic suggestions to go with heavier gauge wire than the factory used. That isn’t necessary. Give the WH and Kohler and Delco engineers credit for sizing it right in the first place and follow their specs. But do use quality copper wire--"copper coated” is not a good choice. What is critically important is that the terminations and connections be electrically solid and clean and that you use stranded wire so that it can flex without breaking. Good luck!

When I suspect a fuel delivery problem, I start at the carb and work back till I find the problem, The first thing I do is remove the fuel line at the carb and crank the engine. (safely holding the line in a container of course) If you have a strong spurting supply, then the problem is in the carb. If there is not a good spurting supply,, then remove the line into the fuel pump. If you have a free flowing fuel supply, replace the fuel pump with electric or rebuild the mechanical. If no free flow to the pump, the petcock in the tank is probably blocked.

Sooooooo many people get all freaked out by 12V systems. Wiring is really not at all complex when broken down to individual circuits. That's a great tractor to start with. Just a few wires. Very simple circuits. No safety switches. Get GOOD wire and GOOD tools like crimpers. I use 7 conductor trailer wires but I'm not building restoration pieces so the color has to be different from each other, not original correct to the machine.

Always love to see a second or third generation giving a Wheel Horse some love.. You would be amazed at how well a neglected old Kohler will run with a little simple maintenance. In my opinion the decision will hinge on your mechanical ability and time available to bring the 308-8 back to life. Having been stored indoors is a BIG plus. Start by removing the flywheel cover from the engine and cleaning the cooling fins, You would be amazed at the number of insect and rodent nests can be found behind the engine tins. While the cover is off you can rotate the engine by hand to make sure nothing is frozen up.Once you know it will turn over freely you can remove the spark plug, use some jumper cables from your car battery to crank it over and see if you have spark. Presuming you have spark buy a ney Champion H-10 spark plug and take care of some deferred maintenance. Drain the old engine oil and anything in the fuel tank. Replace the fuel hose and put a fuel filter in place. A couple quarts of fresh oil and and a bit of non-ethanol gas will be a good start toward success. Allow fuel to flow down to the front of the fuel line prior to putting it on the fuel pump, tank is higher than the pump. Now crank it over with the hose off of the carburetor to be sure the fuel pump works. Put the hose on the carb and with any luck it will start. May want to put a little gas in a spray bottle to help it along, don't use starter fluid. The used tires on rims would be a good buy, be sure the backspacing on the rear rims is the same as your 308, some rims have more backspace and would hit the gas tank. Hope this helps, let us know how you nare doing.

to There are many models from 1972 up that would use the implement(s) you already have. Given that you're familiar with the 300 series you could add a little power and get a 312 314 414 416 etc. To keep wiring and maintenance simple you may want to shy away from (but not avoid completely) the 500 series. Your timing is particularly good because the annual Wheelhorse Big Show is coming up in June down in PA. We have a thread going about what's for sale or wanted at the show or before.

Agree. Getting rich washing each others' shirts was the phrase I heard, don't remember where from. But basically if you aren't making stuff, you're at the mercy of whoever is.

Here are pics I took back in November. My mom lives about 40 miles east of SB and my route takes me on SR 20 bypass which goes right by the old plant. You know there is a room somewhere in there with misc. random WH parts that no one there knows what to do with.