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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/02/2024 in all areas
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12 pointsPower Take-Off (PTO) During the early days of agricultural mechanization, the rotation of an implement’s wheels transferred rotational force to the mechanism to power a cutting blade, planter mechanism, hay elevator, side delivery rake, or thrasher. If soil conditions were unfavorable the machine wouldn’t work very well, if the ground speed of the animals pulling the device changed the effectiveness of the implement was reduced. It was still better than performing these operations by hand but there was room for improvement. As tractors became more plentiful many stationary implements that had been powered by separate engines could now be operated with the flat belt pulley on the tractor. With the greater power and versatility offered by a tractor more backbreaking tasks were mechanized. Grain thrashers, hay presses, silage cutters and blowers could all be made larger and more efficient because of higher powered tractors driving them. However, the field work continued to be done with the same ground driven implements that had been pulled by horses. There was no practical way to harness the engine’s power to improve the efficiency of these implements. The first commercially successful power take-off (PTO) shaft attachment in the U.S. was made available for the International Harvester Corporation, IHC 8-16 in 1919. Now there was a third way to transmit tractor power. International Harvester emphasized this by advertising its later 10-20 and 15-30 models as “triple-power tractors. This new feature provided a competitive advantage for IHC but it was short-lived because soon other tractor manufacturers offered PTOs. Driven by the tractor engine the PTO powered implements, rather than being power by a rolling wheel which ceased transmission if the vehicle stops traveling, and the workload's resistance tends to make the wheel skid rather than turn, even if cleated. The concept of a shaft drive with easily connected and disconnected couplings, and flexibility for driving at changing angles (such as when an articulated tractor-and-trailer combination turns), was a wonderful advancement.
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9 points
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8 pointsLove this post. I have made many memories working on these tractors in my garage with friends but the best ones are watching my son get really into them. A few years ago life tossed me a major curveball and I stopped working on and even using tractors. I had no interest in going out to the garage even. But he was the driving force to get me back out into the garage and I’m thankful for that. The memories we have made out there are incredible. He’s gone from driving mine when he was little to owning 1 to probably zeroing in on double digits if he hasn’t already gotten there now. He has gained knowledge of how things work and can do pretty much do it all. I look forward to the texts when he gets home from school and I’m still at work saying “dad I’m going to the garage” or “dad I got my (insert latest project here) running”. He’s a hard working 13 year old that has a passion for wheel horses. He pays for his addiction to them with hard work fixing push mowers and selling them with the skills he has learned in the garage. I hope he can take these skills into what ever the future holds for him.
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7 pointsI got this all the way back in January and have been working in it on and off. Took me a while to get the engine to run, but it looks like it was recently overhauled. It sounded good when it ran anyway. Definitely a hodge podge of parts, but it's gonna end up an 854. I have it stripped down and I'm gonna take it to the wife's work for sandblasting. Gonna fix the square seat and powder coat it and the wheels. Already coated the inside of the leaky 2 piece tank. Gotta take the trans apart and inspect it. Wanted to have it done for the big show, but that probably ain't gonna happen. Take a look at the engine pulley in the one picture, it bent trying to get it off. Can I fix it, or is it ruined? 20240327_184433.mp4
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7 points
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6 points@Pullstart gimme some rims for some very special tires... wished he cleaned up this nice...
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6 points
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5 pointsI never knew I needed one of these until I got it. About $25 online. If you build most anything, especially out of metal, this thing is awesome. The base is magnetic as well. You can "zero" on a given angle, and check multiple parts for misalignment. Otherwise perfectly level is 0.0. Probably not machine shop precise, but far better than my out of calibration eyeballs.
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5 points
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5 pointsYour local store is an hour away? Not sure if I told you all but Sandra's dad now lives with us in a downstairs granny flat. He can be challenging sometimes as at 87 his focus tends to jump from.one thing to another every time the wind changes. What he was desperate for yesterday is now of no interest and what he had ruled out absolutely a few days ago is now the must have thing. He has flirted with growing things on and off for years, going through greenhouses like most folk go through annual plants lol. He'd buy one, use it a couple of seasons, get fed up then sell it, give it away, scrap it. So when he mentioned one for our home I was a little sceptical to say the least. But in the interests of marital bliss I humoured him. Aluminium frame with polycarbonate sheets were ridiculously expensive and flimsy. Wooden ones with glass would require the sale of body parts to finance. So off to the lumber yard and I'm off and running on a make it up and build it as I go style of growing room. Just a mornings work and I have the start of a base and frame. It will be simple but robust, rustic but not shabby, I'm.hoping a few more days will see it ready for plants. If he goes off the idea I can grow things in it, or Mrs. W may commandeer it for a hot tub house lol. we started out with this, simple but flimsy and small, not really practical. We moved on to this idea, railway sleepers and hefty frame, built to fit the area we have available rather than buying a ready made one that is not a useful fit.
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5 pointsTeaching aids for the younguns for all things. Mechanics, math, physics, and many more...
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4 pointsSaturday's weather is looking pretty good with less than 10% chance of rain as of now. Good weather can pack that place.
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4 pointsI have added 1/2" round bar and did as you suggest. If necessary a MAP torch is plenty to heat on the sharper bends..
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4 pointsNice thing about out in the boondocks i run my sweepster every spring sweep the rocks and stuff out of the yard on to the road...Heck that's where they came from... just returning them to their native environment.
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4 pointsAwesome! I have seen worse v grooves than that. Heat, work it slow, you should be able to recover it.
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4 pointsI think you would be wise to heat it up to rosey-red and then bend it back to where you want it. might crack if done cold.
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3 pointsLights never worked on my 520-HC so I put a test light on the switch and power going in but nothing coming out. I jumped the switch and got lights. I ordered a new switch from amazon and just had to file the opening about 1/16 wider and it fit perfectly. now I have lights. Switch even lights up when on https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CYZ1TTY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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3 pointsHad a day off today so I decided to tinker in my garage. Since the 1257HEAVY is complete I havnt had a WH project going this year yet I've been messing around with some mini bikes I got and decided to toss one together with odds and ends parts I have laying around. Working on mocking it all up make sure everything fits b4 paint. But coming along nicely.
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsBuy a longer length than you need. Take the deck and steel bar out in the woods and find a tree crotch for your bending jig. It ain't rocket surgery.
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3 pointsC-160 auto. Looks like most everything is there minus the starter. I may have one hanging around that will work. Wiring is hacked up mess. I’m not sure if I work on getting this one going or go drag the fully complete 14-8 up and get that running first. Looking to use either of them for mowing. Pretty excited to have a couple big single cylinders now.
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3 points
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2 pointsCase Ingersoll Tractors Having a desire to add garden tractors to their line of farm and industrial equipment J.I. Case had some choices to make. They could design and manufacture their own garden tractor from scratch, they could have them made by an outside company branded with the Case name or they could buy an existing garden tractor company and make it their own brand. The decision was made in 1964 to buy the fledgling Colt Garden Tractor company because of its revolutionary patented hydraulic drive system. Production began with the 1965 Case 130 and 180. Both were powered with the reliable Kohler engine with 10 and 12 HP respectively. The 130 Lo Profile model came with 12" rear rims and the big wheel 180 model came with 16" rear rims. The Colt tractors remained in production through 1965 and 1966. Other Case models sold between 1965 and 1969 were the 120, 150, 155, 190, and 195. All had the famous chrome Old Abe badge on the grille and Desert Sunset and Flambeau Red paint used by the Agricultural Division of J.I. Case. As Case agricultural tractor colors changed the Garden tractor division followed suit. In 1969 Case introduced the all-new 200 and 400 series. The tractors were completely restyled and painted Desert Sunset with Power Red like the newly introduced 70 Series Agricultural tractors. The new 200 and 400 Series tractors used a much stronger trans-axle and cast steel front axle as well as a much stronger main frame. A lower priced entry level garden tractor was added to the Case line in 1973. The model 210 was powered by a ten horsepower Kohler engine driving a Peerless four speed transaxle. Case sold the garden tractor division to Ingersol Tractor Company in 1983. Badging of the Ingersol tractor remained Case in 1984 and the only change was a black frame for that year. By 1987 the Case name was no longer used on the Ingersol tractor. In 1989 the Ingersoll 3000 and 4000 tractors literally turned in a new direction, the position of the engine was changed from the flywheel facing forward to the engine PTO facing forward resulting the use of right-hand discharge mowers and the relocation of the oil cooler. The later Model 3100 and 4100 series used all hydraulic drive for mower decks and snow casters rather than “V” belts and power steering could be ordered on AH models.
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2 pointsThanks for all the replies! I only just removed the belt guard, so that's not an issue. I did install the original belt without tensioning the belt. OOPS. It needed a belt anyhow. Won't make that mistake again. The frame is fine, I checked that out. Also, the metal tab is good, the one that holds the control tensioner, so that's all good. The axle keys WERE sheared, I think that's why they junked the tractor, thinking the trans was shot. The jerking probably didn't heplp the keys any. Tomorrows plan is drain trans, remove Acc valves and , hopefully find a broken spring or clogged orifice. I'm glad to know I don't have to tear down the whole thing to get that rear valve out. The oil is real clean, but Ill use new and put in a new filter, theyre not that pricey anyhow. Fingers crossed! I was surprised how well the engine runs, I fully expected to be rebuilding it. I did see the spring on Toro. Ebay has it too, and a little cheaper. That's a salty spring! Thanks again for the help!
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2 pointsAfter months of restoring, we finally wrapped up this project, years ago a friend bought this 502 with hopes of restoring it one day, late last fall we finally dug it out of the weeds and started its journey. We opted to turn this into a 702 for a few different reasons, ease finding a somewhat original engine being the biggest. I'm not sure what the rear came from, it is a little newer because the brake band mount is orientated differently, I'm guessing 953/1054 because of the long axles but I'm not positive. The hood was by far the worst of it, believe it or not there's 2 hoods welded together along with a few hand made pieces and easily 30 hrs in it including paint. All that's left is to apply the 2 hood decals and the new knurled knobs for the hood. I'm very pleased with the way it came out. These little tractors are a lot of fun and my buddy got a first hand experience in the time and amount of money it takes to fully restore one. All I can say is they're a labor of love.
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2 pointsBeen a long time comin' but Doug is finally gettin the upgrades that the parts have been lying in the shop for 2 years! So we start out up on stands for the before and work our way through today's progress! Thought I was gonna have to lift everything, but the spacer spaced the tire out far enough to leave just enough clearance! Need lo get longer carriage bolts for the weights. Also pulled both front tires and cleaned spindles ready to weld in the 1" spindle upgrades!
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2 pointsWhat with community volunteering, doing repairs at my S I Ls hair salon and building giant greenhouses I've not had much time to do work on the Land Rover. But I finally got the dash panel just about done. Just the dials and lenses to fit now.
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2 pointsYes the pulley can be fixed. I use the edge of my work table placed inside of the sheave. It is 1/4" thick and I work my way tapping around the tapping down the high spots with a hammer. When I pull those style sheaves, I use a bearing puller clamped into the grove adjacent to the area not used for a belt.
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2 points@Pullstart I've been watching videos about this since I saw this post u hooked me on and it is making me wonder a bit
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2 pointsI'll third that ... you can have the seat I had on it. If you don't need it throw it in Pullstart's truck at the BS. I could use those pucks back that were under the seat tho. Newer style seats don't sit down in the pan right without them. Dan knows same thing as his 867. Must have happened on the way to Pullstart's... the way Dan was driving... It was good when I loaded it. Did you clean the carb and check the float? Maybe my repair didn't hold?? I've never had any problems soldering brass. After a bit of running around check those hub screws.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsI had the "pleasure" of helping a friend restore a 444 Case. Not too difficult of a machine to work on but....If you ever decide to do a resto on one, I have a suggestion. Buy a kiddie pool and put the tractor inside of it before you start pulling it apart, because every bolt that you remove will be followed by oil or hydraulic fluid dripping or pouring out.
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2 pointsMy own beginnings with Garden Tractors go back to my maternal "Grammy and Grampa". The local dealer to them was IHC Cub Cadet equipment. They had a yellow and white tractor back in the 70s and traded that in for a red Cub Cadet (682,782?) around 1980. My own history with Wheelhorse in particular goes back only to fall 2016. Trina and I needed a physically heavier machine for pulling heavy stuff. Sooooooooo many usages and at least 20+ Tractors have gone through our shop since. Nowadays we consider our Wheelhorses and implements to be a permanent part of our tool set for our lives. Memories? Many! Some challenging. ALL good.
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2 pointsI purchased this 48" deck new in the 70's. It gets a good cleaning and oiled once a year, when I put it up for winter storage. This was taken about a week ago as I'm getting ready for the summer mowing season. There's no need to put any sort of coating on your deck. Likely it will do more harm than good by trapping moisture as it starts to fail (they all do eventually). All I do is take maybe 5 minutes with a putty knife and scrape the clumps off. No cleaning and no hosing off. Just the clumps that hold the moisture. Even 'dry' grass has moisture so I never skip doing this every time. Quick and easy and by the looks of this 50ish year old deck apparently it works.
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1 pointEven though that is a verticle shaft engine, the deck is worth more then $100. You did very well.
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1 point
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1 pointI have ridden motorcycles for the past 61 years, if someone cannot ride thru or around some grass on a level straight road, they need to park it. With the retards on open pipe V-twins making an effort to annoy me while cutting my grass, they will get zero respect from me. Yes, that too has happened. If one wants to turn their back to the traffic, be my guest, Charles Darwin is waiting.
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1 point@Fordiesel69 is that a hi back seat ? lots of lower back seats on line , look up matching seat base diagrams , as you search , pete
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1 pointThe front mule holes will line up if you jack up the frame a bit. The pin is likely on an upward angl, it needs that plate for a double shear.
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1 pointCan't make the show this year Craig. Besides, this isn't going to be a trailer queen. It's made to work and work it will be doing. Well, after I give it a coat of wax.
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1 pointI mowed the back yard, around the hay field and side of Highway. Our dry weather is a couple of months early this year.
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1 pointIs the 1277 a desirable tractor? That's assuming there is ever an undesirable Wheelhorse. I've got one that's been sitting a while that needs some TLC and I'm pondering what to do with it. There's a deck, but that is the first thing to come off if I dig into it. The engine looks to be from something else. I've never had one with hydraulics before. If it's functional what range do they go for?
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1 pointThe horses ( 1276 , Lawn Ranger , Commandoo 8 , 212-6 ) that were located at another property are now back in my barn . After setting for three years the 1276 and the Lawn Ranger fired right up without hesitation . I have to say this little Tecumseh always has fired by the third pull . Knock on wood ! .
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1 point
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1 pointIn the fall of 1994, I paid--- at auction in n/w PA ---$2700 for a 1991 S-10 Pickup with 4.3 engine, Auto trans, 2WD, and is a long bed (7-1/2'). The odometer quit at 198,332 about 3 years back but the speedo is good. A/C quit -so what. I've been driving it for 30 YEARS.... the S-10 is 33 YEARS old---and I'm a young 75. It's a keeper!
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1 pointPretty sure that front tire size is still available. Not familiar with your machine but I bet a 23x8.5 would work in the rear if you can’t find the original size.
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1 point