Leaderboard

9:30 last night, give or take, we had the alert blasts on 2 of our 5 devices, tornado warning in our area. We are on the NW corner of our county, but the county is big. Well for the the folks that came from 131 to the low day, a tornado was spotted at the end of our road, where the T is and it was heading east south east. To the west, it was just over a mile away. It passed south of us, less than a mile away. I hollered at the kids (upstairs) to get in the basement with my best dad voice. One hurried right down, the other moseyed. I am glad I kept calm in the time of warn, because my instinct was to toss that kid into the basement . Thanks @Blasterdad for checking in on us, being somewhat local he knew it’s path and how close to us it really was.

I saw these at the local agricultural/vintage auction at the weekend. I put a bid in at £10.00, and won!!! 6.90 x 180 -15. Unused. There was also a C161 with a 48” S. D deck, this made £750.00, and a 42” S.D deck on its own, which made £380.00! So I was quite pleased with my purchase! Now I suppose I’m going to have to look at building a “Horse” to fit them to!

Hello fellow Horse Heads long time no post for me, life gets crazy & a lot of things change sometimes but anyhoo. So back a few years ago when I first got my 1994 314-H I had it at my shop going threw it. One of my customers walk past as im working and said, you know I think Iv got a Wheel Horse & im thinking "no you dont buddy". I give him my # to send pics thinking it was a big waste of time & after getting the pics I realized he did have a Wheel Horse! I hand shake bought it right there, asked him to bring it to my store & he said no problem. Well after almost 2 years it is finally in my orbit. I know very little about it other than his father-inlaw got it new and used it around his house moving snow and stuff. His father inlaw moved down south here when his daughter got married and gave the tractor to my customer because he had a farm & his the inlaw had no use for it anymore. Same with every barn find, "it was running when parked" 8 years ago, said one of the axel seal is leaking. Im happy and hope I can get it back in running order soon cause it is going to be handy around the truck farm!! I will post Pics as soon as I reinstate my membership

Farmall produced the MTA tractor. What did MTA stand for? More trouble ahead! Farmall M The Farmall M is a large three-plow row crop tractor produced by International Harvester under the Farmall brand from 1939 to 1953. It was one of International Harvester's "letter series". It succeeded the Farmall F-30. The M was incrementally updated with new model numbers as the MD Super M, Super MD Super M-TA, but remained essentially the same machine. The original M used an International Harvester C248 4-cylinder in-line engine. Production of all M variations lasted until 1954 when it was replaced by the Farmall 400 which was essentially the same machine with updated sheet metal. Variations of the Super M, the Super MD (a diesel version of the Super M) and the Super MTA (with a torque amplifier), were produced. In all, IH produced 44,551 Super M tractors, 5,199 Super MD tractors and 26,924 Super MTA tractors. IHC's torque amplifier allowed the operator to shift between two gear ratios on the fly, even under load without the use of the clutch. The TA is basically a planetary gear located in the clutch housing which provides a 1:1 gear drive when locked up and a 1.482 :1 ratio when disengaged. If additional pulling power was required it could be accomplished without stopping, when field conditions improver the previous speed could be resumed at the flip of a lever. The number of available gears doubled to 10 in a standard five-speed transmission. The M was the larger of the two prominent row crop tractors produced by IH from the late 1930s to the early 1950s, along with the Farmall H, yet could still use the same implements. As with the other letter-series IH tractors, the M used a modular design that allowed assemblies to be removed and replaced as units. All Ms had hydraulic lifts and were produced for gasoline and distillate fuels. Standard Ms had narrow front wheels on the centerline. Rear wheels could be adjusted on splined axles from 52 inches to 88 inches in width to allow for different row widths. An optional extended axle allowed widths of up to 100 inches. The standard M's purchase price in 1952 was $ 2,400 (equivalent to $28,290 in 2024).

After months of restoring, we finally wrapped up this project, years ago a friend bought this 502 with hopes of restoring it one day, late last fall we finally dug it out of the weeds and started its journey. We opted to turn this into a 702 for a few different reasons, ease finding a somewhat original engine being the biggest. I'm not sure what the rear came from, it is a little newer because the brake band mount is orientated differently, I'm guessing 953/1054 because of the long axles but I'm not positive. The hood was by far the worst of it, believe it or not there's 2 hoods welded together along with a few hand made pieces and easily 30 hrs in it including paint. All that's left is to apply the 2 hood decals and the new knurled knobs for the hood. I'm very pleased with the way it came out. These little tractors are a lot of fun and my buddy got a first hand experience in the time and amount of money it takes to fully restore one. All I can say is they're a labor of love.

Maytag dryer was not thoroughly drying , put in all relays / switches years ago / been good , after 35 years , my wife was talking new stuff , but new stuff has a terrible reliability compared to older washer / dryers , started snoopin around the vent tube was loaded with lint , turned out the 4" aluminum vent tube , was cracking tearing , catching lint . cleared out every area , that was it , blowing hot / not tepid air . glad to have the old unit back on line . also did a a slight alteration to vent area , made in USA , pete

I'm all healed up from the radiation treatments. I have been slowly putting a little weight back on after losing about 9 lbs since treatment started final weight being 154 lbs. I'm also gaining some strength back and worked in my shop for the first time in about 5 weeks yesterday. I spent about 4 hours in my shop building a conduit rack for a golf cart. The golf cart will be used to haul material into the tunnels. This will be my only project for a while because I get my chemo port tomorrow and start chemo next week. I will do 2 chemo treatments 6 times over a 12 week period. I'll update later on how that is going.

When moving these heavy implements, pulling them is much easier than pushing. With the 60 inch deck, and if you decide to leave it on the tractor- keep a close eye on the front belly hitch. The 60 is about the max for it, and will wallow the hitch out. There are holes in the hitch for retaining pins. You may want to use them.

I use something like this to get underneath my decks for cleaning and sharpening. That way I can do more often than just once a year.

We had significant amounts of hail, but no big stones. It sure was hammering the house from random directions, but we never heard the “freight train” that comes along with twisters…

Perhaps a cheaper alternative... I used one of these to skid the yard art...

Dear Lord, I come seeking your intercession in Jay Paxton’s cancer treatments. I pray that the cancer that has come into his life soon fades into a quick remission. I pray the side effects of the chemo therapy will be minimal and will rid Jay of any cancer. I believe in your capacity for miracles, and ask for this on behalf of Jay and all who are afflicted with cancer. I ask this in the name of your Son, Jesus Christ.

How about leaving it on and building a trolley with a winch or a chain hoist and lifting the front of the tractor up to clean underneath and service the blades?

That’s an 82 or 83, 84 had a different style valve control lever. I’m a huge Work Horse fan, I bought mine brand new in 1984 and still have it.

@victorb Funny that you bring this up, because today I had to get my 60” deck out and mounted. I have a C-141 with a loader that I use to move it. The deck goes on a 416-H with 6” front wheels and no forward swept front axle. So I have to jack up the front of the tractor to get the deck under it. As I was fighting it and using profanity to help it along I started to think that there’s no way I’m doing this when I get older. And I’m doing it on a smooth concrete floor! @Ed Kennell This year for the first time I tied a small rope to the deck so I could stand up and pull it. The damn thing is HEAVY. @Handy Don One year I did drive over it to mount it and I will never do that again. Let’s just say it didn’t go well, but I had to try! I dread taking it on and off every year but it needs to come off to get the underside power washed and blades sharpened before being put away for winter. My 44” two stage blower is mounted to my 417-A and it doesn’t come off! I mounted it on the tractor at least 15 years ago and have never taken it off, nor do I plan to! Most of my other attachments are on dedicated tractors like Ed said to do. Sweeper, rototiller, plow, grader blade, cultivators, sickle bar, generator, loader, dethatcher. I think that’s all I have!! It is a good excuse to have more tractors!

I don't have a 60"er, but I find a wrecking bar helps me to install and remove my 42s and 48s. I find using the hooked end to pull the decks is much easier than pushing. Then use the straight end to align the lift lever and the attach o matic.

Keep them on a tractor, 4 or 5 should be enough.

https://www.thehenryford.org/collections-and-research/digital-collections/artifact/40602/?fbclid=IwAR3ytPZgMB31QAuBtA9A0QAo8XxY3ZjQeuBsPKucrYTqtl5SRv3sTqCv5s8

Dumpster diving again .

8 speed and OPEI decals installed. Machine is looking more and more complete.

There may be something residual in the fuel bowl floating around too. I’d suggest popping the bowl off and checking it out. Additionally, you could pull the air cleaner off, get it running as close to full throttle as possible and stick your hand over the intake fully a couple times. The vacuum you place on the carb may help clean any partial blockage through after a couple trys.

So, I met up with Ed yesterday and Sir Wally is now snuggly tucked away in my shop. I believe he is salvageable. Ed did the hard part, taking everything apart without busting anything.....well done sir, and thank you! I messed with the old Briggs a little this morning, and it freed up with just a little twist of the wrist. I stopped there as I'm assuming there is a lot of metal on metal with no lube inside. I'm going about trying to identify it right now. I can't seem to find any markings or stamping on the block, but I may not be looking at the right place. It is pretty cruddy and I can't coat myself in shop grease today due to other obligations. As far as the transmission, like Ed said, it appears to be free and shifting. I do not see any numbers cast into the top to identify it, but I believe it is 5003 due to the vertical tab on the side plate? I also don't want to touch it until I have time to clean it up and crack it open for fear of doing more damage. I believe it had been opened at one time, because it has gasket material sticking out from around the case, and if I read correctly, WH didn't use gaskets on these from the factory? So who knows what I will find. The rest of the tractor needs a solid going over with a lot of TLC, but everything seems solid and straight. There is a slight tweak in the steering shaft, but should be easily fixable. The frame and fenders are in great shape. Tool box and gas tank look salvageable. The back of the shower head muffler appears to be solid and salvageable. I'll soak the crap out of it and work slowly. Rear wheels are usable, tires are pretty much shot. The front wheels are gone, which is a shame as it appears finding something that fits correctly appears difficult and/or expensive. But I will manage and I'm not putting a timeline on it. If I have to, there are temporary options already in the shop. I was up until well after midnight last night researching and reading the RJ threads here. Especially with regards to rebuilding the transmission. I'm not sure what the end result will be with this guy. I believe that decision will have to wait until I find the internal condition of the engine and transmission. If the tranny is good, it will get rebuilt and continue to power Wally. Enginewise, if it is easily salvageable, I may reuse it. If not, then I'll be doing some bigger project brainstorming......probably of the electric driven nature. Either way, it should be fun. I'll start its own thread once some real work can begin.

@ebinmainecould you posts the link public??

I was thinking maybe @c-series don Don should just put in a four post lift in the garage...

I use car dollies they tend to roll easier than furniture dollies and I have an automotive engine hoist for lifting.

2100 lbs. @Streetrodchev’s JD tips the scales over that with him in the saddle, 2250 I think I recall? Quite a shock at the light weight ness of the 9N! Cool find!

I had another thread on this tractor but danged if I can find it & never did post red porn glamor pics. A carcass from @Achto and a few years later. Finally finished it couple months ago. Motor runs so nice promptly put it to yard work. Some things are just better left untouched. Character they call it and tells stories. Not sure if orginal amp meter but just looked right. Many thanks to Dan for body work n paint n parts. @Pullstart for the motor. Most of my dealer stickers are on magnets.

Well you're at the right/wrong place to support that!!

If you have an original muffler as was on my 1990 model 312-8 A baffle in the muffler can burn off and plug the 2nd baffle. The engine will run smooth but not rev up. When it happened to me the baffle fell off it's location when the engine is shut off. Restart and run OK until the floating plug works it's way to the hole in the second baffle again. If you bang the muffler you may hear the floating plug rattle. The inlet tube of the muffler goes through to the far side of the can. The tube is drilled full of small holes for the exhaust to exit and there is a cap on the end of the tube. The tube burns off at the holes leaving the cap and a bit of the tube to float around.

Lack of fuel. Fuel tank vent clogged?

Decal installed on the lift lever. Terry makes them all and they all are great.

Excellent point. I got bit by that on the first set I ordered several years ago. The ones in the link I keep handing nowadays claim to have 87.1 mm Center opening. It goes against Red Square policy to post sales links to other sites but I'd be more than happy to send you a PM with the info. Notwithstanding that, I have to update the link every few months because the listings on fleeeeBay expire so I have to choose a new product.

We will see....I have had the vision for awhile of doing an electric WH. I just couldn't make up my mind on a platform/tractor to start with. I only have 2 other tractors and they both are too nice to hack up and I use/need them around the house. An electric project would just be for fun, cruising around, and maybe towing a yard cart. This would be perfect for it, but I don't want to bastardize anything that is salvageable. Even if I do make an electric drivetrain, I would not want to modify the RJ frame or bodywork. That way it could be reversed to original at any point if a correct power plant comes along. If it does end up going electric, it would be a 56V LiIon battery and a large brushless motor. I have access to everything to make it happen and make it look professional. I'll gladly talk anyones ear off in person about my day job, but I don't want to do that here.

They need to have a large enough hole in the center to clear the raised ring on the hub that is 3 1/8". The ones I have are 82.5 mm center or 3 1/4". They were made for some model Jeep. Some with 5 lug on 4.5" bolt circle don't have a hole large enough to fit on a Wheel Horse.

OK, Randy just returned my call. It's $30 / night Thur, Fri, and Sat. With or without hook up. Camping is permitted anywhere on the grounds. I should add anywhere but in a traffic or display area.

@victorb use , large cargo straps , rated , 10 k + 12 ft long , along with a harbor freight , ratchet chain lift , also have , 3/8 steel hooks , for a connection point . numerous loop points , for hook ups . usually have heavy anything propped up to a wall , with a higher , pull point , and screw in eye bolts , to easily , spring / hook in place . problem is the same , weather large or smaller , once you have go to points , easy to chain lift , item in to place . also use lift shackles , S shaped steel open hooks , for easy hook up . pete

Ms are a pulling beast. My boy @Rp.wh had one and always did good. A very heavy tractor. As with most letters series a common tractor around around here. At shows you see many of them in all clothes.

Yah close one. Glad to hear the shop didn't get reorganized.

Good idea on the coil spring. You need to capture at least one end to keep in from walking out of position. Not much free travel there though before the coils bind (touch). Did one on the 854 and it is adjustable....

MANY thicknesses are available. They can be anything from 1/4" up to 2" I'd imagine most performance shops would have them. Summit. Jegs. Etc. Maybe wheel and/or tire stores. I use the ones in the link I sent because they're the least expensive I've found. Some places sell them for 2 or 3 TIMES that price. I can't justify the difference for a 6 mph off road machine. Not that I'm aware of. These aren't specifically a tractor part or very commonly used on them. I may even have a spare set if 1.5" here Bill. I'd be glad to set you up with a full "kit" for whatever my cost is. Easy peasy.

Thinking about putting a plow behind this one. Four new tires, painted the wheels, thumpin' 16HP Kohler,all new hydraulic hoses, rebuilt cylinder and control valve,front weight set. Also have a full set of wheel weights I need to mount. Must be an older tractor, no rubber hood latches, older style control valve. Still have some more to do, but liking it so far!!

Awesome, thank you guys for the info. Excited to see everyone and of course the Wheel Horses ! I'll be bringing a full load of goodies to sell as well.

The smile says it all! 👍

I’m going this route, purpose built machines. I’m not good with low work so I don’t like changing them, like others I use dollies and profanity.

Dollies. Cheap fold up engine cranes. Old swing set with a chain hoist Ect.

The 60” deck is a bruiser, but it is not designed to support the weight of a tractor rolling over the top. The spindle pulleys and covers would likely sustain damage. Even the smaller deck are quite heavy and there isn’t a lot of clearance under the tractor when mounting and unmounting. Some members have built dollies and hand truck adaptors both for storage and mounting.

Ooohhh... conversion conversation...?

Good to here that it passed you by.