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Just last week I said no more tractors for me since I bought a big tool box for the garage. Well fast forward to today and I dragged 3 more home and a bunch of NOS parts. The guy has more and I plan on reaching back out to spend some more time digging to see what else he has. As for the tractors I wanted just one and my friend was buying the other. When we got there he offered us a 3rd and we had to pool some cash to get it. I plan on letting my buddy have the 3rd tractor. Definitely had fun picking in the upstairs of the guys garage where he had tons of parts for so many pieces of equipment, model A’s and so much more.

Power adjustable rear tractor wheels The general-purpose tractor offered the opportunity to perform many chores with one machine. Plowing, discing, mowing cultivation and harvesting of crops were all accomplished with the same tractor. This versatility had one slight downside; the rear wheels had to be at different widths for some of these tasks. For plowing the rear wheels had to be in the furrow. For cultivation they had to be outset to span two rows of corn or other crops. When harvest time came around the read wheel width had to be decreased so they wouldn’t run over the rows of crops being gathered. Most tractor manufacturers had dished rear wheels which could be reversed to accomplish the change of rear track. However, this entailed removing both rear wheels and moving them to the opposite sides of the tractor to maintain the correct direction of tread. When you consider the weight of a tractor tire and wheel assembly this is not to be taken lightly (pun intended). Some tractor makers offered extended rear axle lengths which allowed you to loosen the two-part split hub and slide it to the desired width without having to remove the wheel assembly. This too was a labor-intensive task especially after the axles and hubs has seen some wear. My uncle had a shop-made tool, somewhat like a BIG harmonic balancer puller, that helped pulling the wheels outward and a couple of chain falls were used to draw them back inward. Both of these operations entailed the use of a BFH tool to persuade the hub to move. In 1948, Allis-Chalmers developed the first power adjustable rear wheels on a farm tractor. This technology appeared on the model “WD.” By loosening a few bolts, locking the brakes on the opposite wheel, and selecting the proper gear the operator could move the rear wheel to the desired position. Each side will have stop blocks bolted in place so the wheel will stop at the desired position. What had been a laborious job became an easy task.

Keaton, for cases just like this we have a free 6 month supporter membership. I have given you 6-months supporter free to you, now get busy and post those pictures. And Happy Birthday!

Pulled some trail cams. red fox coyote or bobcat raccoon coyote deer

Brave brave man... The Maynha Press: @ebinmaine was last seen videoing the BBT on an alleged hydro Wheel Horse... It has been months since Eb has been seen or heard from... Local authorities questioned and released BBT who simply said something about a preference for gears, her dojo, teaching Eb some martial arts and vague references to frying pans...anyone who sees or hears from Eb is asked to determine if we can have his stockpiles of C-160's...

Just brought home a Cub I got from my Aunt after my Uncle passed away last year. It's a 1953 and he has done all his mowing, plowing and snow removal for years with a Cub. My cousin tells me there were three between his Mom and Brother and him and this was the last left. It appears he went through everything on it, just didn't paint anything and I am going to leave it just like that. I have the original wheels and have ordered some new trim ribs for them. He put the cub wheels and tires on for mowing.

Hello! My name is Clayton I'm 13. I'm working on a wheel horse 416-8 It's been sitting for 6 years. I put a battery in and it cranked for half a second it sounded more like a stall but it worked. Please give me feedback on what I should check on so I can fix it thanks 👍🏽

Insurance IMO, is nothing more than legal organized extortion. Unfortunately it is also a necessary evil in life.

Thank you very much, and happy Easter @nylyon there is a picture of it before and after I washed it

Got this beast running & driving today!!!

What year is your 416-8 and does it have a Kohler of Onan engine? Oh, and by the way. Always good to have new blood in this group of old crazies.

I just turned 14 last week, so I could get a job if someone would hire but I have to go to school. over the summer I will try to get a job somewhere. I only have cash a small amount of cash and that is all. so thanks @JoeM

@Ex wh1257 I have a 418-C and 418-8. I kinda want a 418-A to complete the 418 series, but with around 18 Wheel Horses I’m seriously running out of storage space. The C (commercial) model is a bit rare, I’m super happy that I was able to find one and would love to know how many were made?

418 c

I have owned several 42 and 50 inch wheel horse sickle bar mowers. I have also owned a Haban 414 on a Wheel Horse B-100. Currently, I still have a 50 inch sickle bar on a 1964 1054. The 50 inch for 953/1054 was one inch wider for fit the wider frame (different from the other Eheel Horse tractors). These attachments are very useful but also extremely finicky and must be in good working order to use. Belts, bearings, pulleys and grease, grease, grease. I have also owned and operated the RJ/Suburban CBR-32 front cutter bar and the CBR-327 chain drive front sickle bar. I restored five or six. When operating these side sickle bar mowers you are very, very busy . Shifting gears in the tractor, steering, looking out for obstacles and obstructions, lifting the bar and engaging and disengaging the clutch to run the sickle blades. All in all they operate pretty well. There are also a couple other makers that supplied sickles.

Absolutely no chance. She says "it's weird"

No paint there for now folks. Maybe later.... Here's the almost finished result:

Of course AFTER I installed the nice shiny new bolts in the flywheel screen I remembered that it needed to be vacuumed out. So I did that. That's back together. Again. Here's what I came up with for the standard issue broken/ cracked seat pan tabs. Those are 7/16 grade 8 bolts. Should give a good squeeze.

Thanks for the responses and interest everyone, the lot is sold

Just a quick list 60’s style pto pedal, 2 clutch plates, a rock shaft for rear lifting, a suburban lift arm lock piece, transmission detent balls, 2 sets of rear red light lenses, 1 set of axle seals, lift cable, throttle cable, fuel petcock the bottom of a gas tank, gas cap for late 60’s- mid 70’s style plastic tanks, 2 or 3 flat idler pulleys, 1 or 2 v style ilder pulleys, 1 set of black grease caps for front wheels (package says 420 auto on it) and several other things I’m not sure of. He didn’t want me splitting boxes to make one epic box so I had to take what was in the boxes to get the things I wanted. I paid 75 for the parts pile. on a side note I just was talking to @Crazywheelhorseman last week and he recommended getting a rock shaft set up for @WheelHorse_Kid’s tiller. That was the very first part sitting on top of the pile when I walked in. So it felt like destiny 😂. Looking forward to going back down and really digging into the chaos he has going on. his home owners insurance was cancelled after living there for 55 years using the same company and never filing a claim. They said he had to much junk around the house and a few repairs needed.

Thanks Eric, this thing purrs like a kitten and appears to be perfect mechanically!! Randy

A Wheel Horse entered the painted egg contest. Nope, he didn't win. We had 23 egg painters aged from 1 to 99 years old. My 55yo son Mark won with his Wise Old Owl entry.

2nd pic definitely a Bob tail...

Clayton - Welcome. This link below is of great importance as it deals with what to do (and not to do) when you get a new-to-you tractor. Lots of reading, but compiled by a bunch of good folks here. Got questions as you go?? Just ask... Bill

We were all young at one time. We are a very patient group. No question is a dumb question. We will prod and prompt you until we understand. Stalling usually means that it was running, but stopped.

Welcome Clayton. 416-8 is one of my favorites. If it is cranking over make sure you are getting spark at the plug. You also want to get rid of any gas in the tank and lines. Chances are the carb is going to need cleaning. Once it's running you are going to have a real nice tractor. Good luck with it.

Has BBT ever expressed interest in wing walking?

In the fall, under the walnut tree, security cam picked up a mink. A little unusual. That area always has a lot of activity.

It’s a C-145

Happy Birthday @Keaton, and welcome to Red Square Supporter Membership.

1929 John Deere GP with experimental adjustable rear tread width.

He is 14 maybe there could be exceptions??

Oil change and lube on my latest rescue, a 416H. Picked this one up last spring. Tractor only has 198 hours on it, but sat outside under a tarp for years after it lost spark and the original owner tried fixing it himself, without success. Amazed it actually runs as good as it does. Air cleaner and plugs were out of it for years. Should have been locked up tight.

If you're inclined to REPLACE the F plate I have a good one here. The other end of this frame is bad. You pay the freight costs I'd send the section.

Just picked one up this past week. Need to check my parts shelf to see if I got everything I need to put it on my raider 14

First official upgrade to the Case International. It needed some front fenders badly. Took the tractor out in the rain a few times, last time together with one of my nephews and we got plenty of water and mud flung onto our faces.. no bueno.. although my nephew did'nt seem to care Gathered up some flat bar stock and started puzzeling. Turns out nothing is flat, square and/or plumb on a front axle like this so there were quite a few tricky angles to get right. My dad rolled a hoop which I used to make part of the main frame with. Looked at some pictures on the interwebs for inspiration and (imho) improved the design to my liking. Top bolts onto an exsisting bolt which I replaced with an longer one. The bottom wraps around the wheelhub with an exhaust bolt (if that even is a word in English). Bolted the fenders to the brackets with some carriage bolts and self locking nuts. Done! Don't know why but I always really like the look of front fenders on 2wd tractors. Thanks for watching!

@Sparky I think has a B80 with them on the wide fronts. I used 6-inch 312-8 wheels on my son's recent build with narrow ribs. Like Eb said, tubes are very helpful with seating the beads. I highly doubt I could've got them inflated without tubes. They look a little funny, but are fine for what this machine will be used for.

@Clayton Barton agree with @ D MAC-- on the fuel line swap out , , filter close to carb , would also drop lower carb bowl ,probably full of debris , from tank and line break down , personally like running in an unknown engine , on a separate gallon of heavily treated gas , carb cleaner . get some tome on a a fast idle , for heat up and maybe an oil change , ROTELLA 30 WT OIL, Walmart , about 2 1/2 qts, put in 2 qts, check on dip stick . lots for you to learn , this is a start , then a trans oil / shift boot , refresh . keep in touch pete

Kohlers are good. Depending on the year, Wheel horse put either a K-341 or M16 in the 416-8. Onans are okay too. If you can find the tractor ID number, which could be either 31-16K801, 31-16K802, 31-16K803, or 31-16K804, we can point you to the proper manuals for your horse. They are all free downloads from our manual section.

Change the oil , check the transmission to see if there is any water in the fluid. On the fender pan there should be a serial number , if you provide than that will help getting the correct manual for your tractor. There is a manual section on the site , which can help with wiring and other issues.

Or in my case, when a 16 year old put an 8inch engine pulley on and used it as an ATV for a couple years.

There’s no push/tow valve on the Eaton like there is on a Sunstrand. You can push/pull the Eaton but it must be slow and only for short periods. Pulling up on the transmission disconnect lever will not make a difference when it comes to this.

Mine was around $100 when I got mine. It takes up more area, but easly moved.

I have already joined over there and have posted a few times. There site is much harder to post pics on for me because the small file size though. Thanks! Randy

Brings back memories. Grandfather had one of these with a plow and disk that he used for a small "truck patch". Didn't have hydraulics, had the big "armstrong" spring assist lift lever.

3 Blackhoods saved! Nice score!