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Doing a little wash today

The Empire Tractor Corporation 1946 – 1950 The Empire Tractor Corporation was founded by Frank Cohen. During WW2 Mr. Cohen’s companies manufactured and provided military components and materials to the European Allies and the U.S .Government. Following the War needing to use his factories for peace time purposes Cohen came up with the idea of building a farm tractor that could be used to help War devastated European countries plant crops and put food back on the tables. The Empire Tractor Corporation was incorporated in the state of Delaware in 1946.The tractor they built was designed for use as a general purpose two-bottom plow light duty farm tractor. The Empire used rebuilt war surplus Willys, and some Ford, 134 cubic inch four-cylinder engines, Warner Gear T84 four-speed transmissions, Spicer Model 18 transfer case with high & low range, a PTO output with dual levers and the Willys front drive differential. The dual lever PTO drove the rear flat belt pulley and a V belt pulley located behind the levers. A roller chain speed reduction final drive was used along with brakes at each rear wheel. The tractor came with rear belt pulley, large steel deck area, tool box, gauges, governor, head lights and a rear light. Instruments included a temp gauge, amp meter, oil pressure gauge, starter button, ignition switch and governor notched “T” handle for speed control. The patented straight bar hitch was unique as it pulled from under the center of the tractor making a rear overturn nearly impossible. The Empire tractor was originally made for export only with no intention of selling in the U.S. or Canadian markets. In exchange for not selling any tractors in these markets and compete with other US tractor companies, Empire was able to purchase war surplus rebuilt engines and components from the U.S. Government at low cost. The Empire was to be sold to the U.S. government for use in the United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Administration (U.N.R.R.A.) program after World War II (AKA the Marshal Plan) and to other foreign countries. The first 46 tractors were shipped to South Africa, 4,300 going to Argentina and another 800 going to China, Poland, Greece, Mexico and other countries. About 5,300 tractors were exported by 1948. Production of the Empire had pretty much come to an end by December of 1947 with deliveries being made from the inventory that had accumulated at the factory. The Argentine government and its agents at this time were reported to be very corrupt and claimed the Empire tractor was not suited for farm work in that country and refused further deliveries to complete the 7,000 tractor order they had. Based on the refusal of the Argentine government an article in Time Magazine appeared saying the Empire was not well made and should not have been sold. By 1948 these and other issues left Empire with over 1,200 tractors that they couldn’t sell in the United States and Canada. In October 1948 bankruptcy was filed with receivers being appointed by month’s end. In 1950 the assets of Empire Tractor Corp. were sold with all creditors being satisfied. The 1,294 Empire tractors in inventory at that time were sold through distributors and dealers in the United States and Canada for about $700.00 each. The Empire Tractor was a well built light duty tractor meant to fill a need in post WW2 Europe in support of the Marshal Plan but the entail agreement to not sell domestically led to the company’s early end.

Want to find a brochure on your older car or truck? http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html

hiya y'all, long time no see. in preperation to an upcoming ploughing match, something i havent been able to do round here for a couple years, i thought i might aswell put the decals on i got from mark years ago. it really makes a big difference on the appearance doesnt it

Never didnI ever think a truck built in the 90’s would be a classic but here we are. Recently I bought this off my best friend back in Florida. It was his uncle’s truck. He bought it when his uncle passed. I got it last November and brought it home to NC. Tidying up a few things and getting it drivable(to my liking anyways). Hope to be cruising it soon. Pretty much all original and most of the mods I do will be with factory option parts for these trucks. Electric sport mirrors, newer sound system, the Tahoe limited wheels(I just got) and a couple other things. I really like these year trucks.

Just last week I said no more tractors for me since I bought a big tool box for the garage. Well fast forward to today and I dragged 3 more home and a bunch of NOS parts. The guy has more and I plan on reaching back out to spend some more time digging to see what else he has. As for the tractors I wanted just one and my friend was buying the other. When we got there he offered us a 3rd and we had to pool some cash to get it. I plan on letting my buddy have the 3rd tractor. Definitely had fun picking in the upstairs of the guys garage where he had tons of parts for so many pieces of equipment, model A’s and so much more.

A Hoyer patient lift makes a great small engine lift. I purchased mine used, but in like new condition for $150. I added a fabricated spreader bar. It has a 400 lb capacity and includes a padded u-sling with head support and a commode sling with positioning strap. You should have seen the look on my wife's face after I unloaded it from the back of the truck. I told her I was investing in my future. Honestly, I haven't tried out the slings. LOL!

I did have a great day… because I lived to see it. Each day that God gives us is a blessing. Thank you all for the birthday wishes !

That is a cool truck Richie! Time and age sure is relative. Think about this fact-that truck is what early 1990’s? When it was new a similarly aged truck would be this one… If that don’t make us feel old!!! If you look back at the first post I wrote to start this thread, I related to story on how one of my sons buddies commented on my “classic Chevy pickup”🤔👀😅 and that was my 1995! I had to chuckle when Caleb relayed his comments to me! But age is indeed relative! Can’t wait to visit you again Richie and go for a cruise in that thing😎🙌🏻

It is fascinating to see what a group of followers those trucks now have. The old “square body S-10 series” are growing in desirability once again. In the late 90’s I knew multiple people that owned them—some stock and some hot modded! Cool little trucks for sure!

Ha, the first and only brand new car I ever bought was in 1988, an 89 Chev truck short bed and 4x4. Loved that truck and it could climb off road hills like nobody's business. Unfortunately it got T-boned down in LI NY and the passenger side was crushed in at the door. Drove it home back to MA with my friend practically sitting on my lap and it took forever riding the granny lane doing about 40 mph. Even that speed was scary and dangerous but I was like 23-24 yo and didn't know any better. Plus no money to pay for that kind of a tow! When I drove to the insurance adjuster, the first thing he said was I couldn't have the tow truck drop it off there! He was all upset. He couldn't believe I drove it 10 miles to get it there let alone the 200 miles from LI. LOL Stared at me shaking his head as I drove out the parking lot to go back home! Good times

For that kind of money buy a Facet made in USA electric pump and solve the issue permanently and no worries about the pump membrane failing and adding gas to the crankcase......

If on a tight budget (aren't we all), you can make the Mid-Mount Idler Pulley Assembly with parts from a local hardware.

how bout now?

Finally got the Suburban rat rod going. Got a transmission for it. However, I'm still gonna repair/overhaul the other one I have. Couple little things/adjustments needed. It cackles pretty good & does wheelies! Not 100% happy w/seat but I'll improve or replace it. New neighbors moving in across the street & me the village idiot doing wheelies up my driveway!

I found a picture of my first hot rod today. This was an ‘87 or so Regular cab short box S10, with a 350 v8 and 700R4 transmission. I welded the rear spider gears (Lincoln Locker) and had a Predator carburetor on it. It was a single barrel HUGE square carb with a massive butterfly. It was basically all or nothing. It would idle ok and run W.O.T. And not much in between. At one point, I milled my own header flanges and built zoomies about 16” long 1-7/8” tube straight out the fenders. Loud? Whatchu talkin’ bout Willis?

I got this Johnny Dreere in last week for spring service. I worked on it last year for wiring issues. The mice really enjoyed the Deere flavored wiring. The owner figured he would giver them a choice and wired bait to the wiring harness. I thought the idea was creative. No wiring issues this year.

Put the new horse to work. The 310-8 ran great but the 42" SD did leave a small streak. May need a new set of blades. I had a little trouble using the clutch and brake pedals. I'm a hydro guy used to pushing one pedal to go forward and releasing the pedal to go backwards. But I didn't run over anyone or thing. Then used the 312H to till the bean patch and put up a rabbit fence.

That does sound like something you would do

Boy does this sound familiar! or if my kids make me take the ones i have out of their garages.

The method I use is to clean the brake band metal well, apply the adhesive (I use silicone adhesive caulk) mount the brake band on the transaxle and set the parking brake. The adhesive will cure with the brake band in its final working position and the job is done, no muss, no fuss.

Now that is a job well done sir! We often think our modern methods and materials are superior to those that have been condemned to the history books. But those boys knew a lot more than we give em credit for. I'd love to see a new plastic synthesiser in a couple hundred years, you can bet it won't work and would be nigh impossible to repair. I just read a book about the first ever production land rover being renovated. The guy who had it was a farmer and he needed to drag it out of a field. He decided to use an old tractor for the job, but the block was cracked by freezing and the big end bearings were shot. He made new shells out of an old paint can and got it running, he used a 45 gal drum of water to constantly fill the cooling system as water poured out of the split block. Got the job done though. My hat is off to you sir, I can't play a note either but I'd have done the same as you for the love of it.

I got 'er done today. It has been a really interesting project. I expected it to take longer to complete than it did. For one thing, I purchased most of the stuff for repair locally and I spent a bunch of hours in the shop the past ten days. Although I used synthetic felt instead of wool felt and taped the bellows instead of replacing them, each and every knob or key produces sound. As I cleaned and worked on it, I thought to myself "It's been 115 to 130 years since some of these parts have been removed or messed with." I did discover one thing, I'll never play an instrument like this. I have dupuytren's disease. This disease causes fingers to roll in and there is no way I can stretch my fingers to make a cord. If you look lower left, you'll see the sawhorse "stool" I sat on while one-fingering the keyboard. The hymnal (printed in the 1920's) is only for show. I can't real a lick of music and those dots and things don't mean a thing to me! I think I spent about $40 in supplies.

This is the best way to do it. My tractor in these pics has the more stout Unidrive trans, so it should be able to handle duals without an issue. Not to mention I just putt around shows with it, never sees any real work.

Black Universal Tractor Seat WITH SUSPENSION (mensmodernity.shop) Here's a bargain.

Looks like it grew there...

@FreeBilly Broken F-plates happen, specially when using a dozer blade plow. I'm in the process of building a pulling tractor and built this reinforcement to save my F-plate from the abuse.

Welcome!! All Normal. Those holes do go thru - be careful if you chase them with a tap..... Do you have a picture of the damaged "F" plate and the finished repair?? Hope it does NOT look like this 854 frame... Been plowing with this one?? Check the cast iron lower steering block for broken off mounting tabs - those 2 problems go hand-in-hand.... The second file is the way I do the repair AND the triangular braces to stop the frame flex for good.....

First official upgrade to the Case International. It needed some front fenders badly. Took the tractor out in the rain a few times, last time together with one of my nephews and we got plenty of water and mud flung onto our faces.. no bueno.. although my nephew did'nt seem to care Gathered up some flat bar stock and started puzzeling. Turns out nothing is flat, square and/or plumb on a front axle like this so there were quite a few tricky angles to get right. My dad rolled a hoop which I used to make part of the main frame with. Looked at some pictures on the interwebs for inspiration and (imho) improved the design to my liking. Top bolts onto an exsisting bolt which I replaced with an longer one. The bottom wraps around the wheelhub with an exhaust bolt (if that even is a word in English). Bolted the fenders to the brackets with some carriage bolts and self locking nuts. Done! Don't know why but I always really like the look of front fenders on 2wd tractors. Thanks for watching!

I had a pair of coveralls in HS that got gear oil on them. I still had them at 30 and there was still a whiff of it. finally burned them.

Cruising the ‘69 C10, I often get the “I grew up riding in one of those” hollers and looks. My mom had an S10 Blazer, but even before that I’ve always loved these trucks. It was my dream to have one for my first vehicle, and it didn’t happen that way. I had a 2.8l V6 2wd for a while, and this 350 one. They were fun, but my heart was in the 4x4s. I never did get one . I get the itch to get Mrs, P’s 84 305 truck out quite often, it deserves more than sitting in the barn with flat tires!

That truly wonderful piece of history. So happy you took the time to get it back into shape. Maybe you can find someone who is actually able to play it.

If you search the part number they can be found for a bit less.

That's what I do to all my 's, instant starts+prefilter comes on the pump, they fire on the second crank.

Shame they folded up so soon…good looking tractors AND they’re red

Time to scalp the Bermuda grass here in West Jasper GA! A good 3/4 acre of it. Brought out the C125 just to cut it roughly before pushing the old 80s Snapper through it. The deck would slow and clog. It's the tension on the deck itself - old belt? Fine. Went to the 516 with its 48"and pumped the bulb to start it - gas everywhere. Bulb lasted one year - cracking. Blast that eBay. Can you say, "China?" It's a thing with me, not that just about everything you get other than OEM is just trash today. Went to the old '77 with its rarely used bulb and, same cracking. All tractors stored indoors. Routed a direct line to the 516 and ran around the yard on the first cut. The 48" is only 1 year from its full restoration. Added the trailer and pulled the recent tree scrap from the back. Finished that and 516 hunting a bit. Adjusted the idle on it according to @lynnmor procedure - much better. These Onans are so sensitive to their air filters and mixture adjustment. Will mow the back fescue today with it. C125 will get its throttle cable fixed - slips in the clamp at the lever. Onan 20 is on the bench for rings after the old Ranger gets its 4.56 gears. 520H in pieces in the garage. It's always something, but retirement approaches (company just needs to give me an excuse) and I'll at least have plenty to keep me busy.

I have a few old wagons. The one with the flowers is the oldest. It had spoke wheel but they were rotted out. I replaced them with wheels I took off the hot rod wagons and just painted them to look rusty.

I replaced the brake pad a few years ago Used Goop adhesive and zip ties. Worked well.

One question: Does the bait come in Red?

I used gorilla glue on mine. Clean up the steel band and the pad. You can either clamp it in multiple places or what I did. I put it back on and set the brake. Left it 24 hours and its still there 2 years later.

Clean both the lining and band. Let them dry. Apply Goop or 100% silicone adhesive and clamp until dry. Or buy a new lining, or buy a complete new brake band. I sell linings, K&B Horse Parts (vendor) sells reconditioned bands.

I have a decent seat you can buy at the big show in 2 months for a lot less than a new one.

cheapest, but not the best solution -- remove the vinyl strip frame edge and clean its inner slot and be sure to save the clip that joins the 2 ends of the edging on front of seat between your legs -- use black gorilla tape to repair the seat vinyl - - take your time cutting repair pieces of tape to fit the contour of the seat -- reinstall the form fitting seat to the steel frame -- folding and tucking the the vinyl seat cloth edges carefully working the vinyl strip edging around the steel frame to re-connect the seat unit to the frame -- You will need to manipulate and compress the foam to its proper contour -- End product should be usable but certainly not like new -- You may also want to visit online sites, or Amazon, etc - - there are vinyl patch repair products sold that have pieces that come in various sizes and shapes or can be cut from sheets -- i believe they are self adhesive -- Another option is local furniture repair shop or upolstry repair shop - - either buy materials they sell or have them do repair -- Also Tractor Supply sells new seats as does Northern Tool etc

Just picked up that Napa/Echlin coil and installed it, started right up 1st try! Thank you all!

Last used it in 2015, pulled it out the shed and power washed it, I know the tines are worn but thats some $$ there. I cant find a number on the belt but I remember it was slightly too short, anyone know the correct length to go on a 400series so i can compare it? Is there a go-to tension spring, the one i had was not right and if there's a right one id like to do that. Im going to change the oil, im assuming 90wt or 80w90 will work?

Attwood makes marine products, (which means it should be Coast Guard rated) so about as good as you're going to get. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Marine-Boat-Fuel-Line-Kit-with-Universal-Sprayless-Fuel-Connector-6-Foot-x-3-8-Inch-Universal/19767378

Instead of using all the nylon ties to clamp the brake PAD to the BAND: (1) Remove the brake DRUM. (2) Apply epoxy (JB Weld) to brake BAND and PAD. (3) Quickly CLAMP them to the brake DRUM using a couple large 'C' clamps. (4)wipe away excess epoxy. (5) Let dry as needed. (6) remount brake DRUM and fresh BAND to the trans case.

Old thread, but this is a good example of the difference between "cool" (6000) and "warm" (4500) PAR 36 LEDs. And for all the non-believers, that bright thing in the background is afternoon sunlight. These things are bright in daylight!

Your mower probably is not properly connected at the Mid-Mount Atach-A-Matic. This owner manual gives some information about mounting the deck.

Today i checked in to attending some museums since its cold this morning again. The Train Museum, The North Texas Museum, and the Sheppard Air Force Base/Call Field History Museums never reopened after Covid! Ba-Humbug! But a Jenny to Jet displays moved to the Regnal Airport nearby. IN 1917 before WW1 Call Field was established at Wichita Falls as an Army Air Corps Jenny Pilot Training Base.. Training Air Craft Mechanics was added when the war began and the need ramped up. The base was deactivated after the end of the war. In the spring of 1941 with war in Europe underway, the Air Force was looking to expand and land next to the old Call Field was obtained. Initially it was intended for Aviation Mechanic training.. By January 1942 its mission again expanded to pilot training. Today it is the largest Air Force Jet Pilot Training Base and also includes Jet Pilot Training for our NATO Allies. today their are roughly 20,000 military and civilian personnel on the base. This restored T38 is showcase as one of the jet trainers previously used at the base. today the base includes pilot training for multiple jet aircraft from fighters to air tankers. This afternoon i did some more drill bit sharpening. Then got into polishing some steering wheels. Not a great picture, but on this Suburban wheel you can see the high point on the bottom side of the wheel are worn the worst, with a dull spot about the size of a small button. I had already done a general one over polish on the wheel before this picture. After polishing with white tripoli, then red rouge compound dull spots are gone. The wheel has a few larger scratches that I didn't try to sand/ polish out due to their size. So on the left is the completed WH suburban wheel and the wheel to my Mayrath. On the right is another later style WH wheel that I've done part of. Below are the polishing wheels I've been using in my drill. (Doing this with a true shop stand mounted buffer wheel sure would be easier than holding the wheel in my lap or between my knees). But is sure kept me occupied this afternoon while my wife was training.