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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/23/2024 in Posts
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12 pointsIt has been about used up,think this one will have to be a parts machine. But lookee what was on it !!!
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7 pointsThat ladder set up looks as solid as a rock, I've definitely climbed less stable rigs when decorating. If it were me, I'd grab a can of black paint and do a big ole jagged hole shape on the ceiling around the hood. Make it look like the machine had broke through from the loft.
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7 points
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6 pointsWinnowing with a Fanning Mill Prior to the invention of mechanical devices, the wind was used to winnow, separate the grain from the chaff. Wheat or other grain was piled on bare ground outside; it was tossed into the air, and the chaff was blown away while the heavier grain fell to the earth. There is a biblical reference to the winnowing process. Matthew 3:12 NLT He is ready to separate the chaff from the wheat with his winnowing fork. The first mechanical fan – meaning device used to move currents of air – was men using hand-held “fans” that were waved to create artificial wind. These first fans were usually no more than pieces of canvas that were flapped while the ends were held in the hands. The mechanical fanning mill (fanner, fanning machine, winnowing machine, or grain separator) was invented in the early 19th century as a wooden case holding a machine with rotating arms with vanes – like a windmill – to produce a blast of air that passed through a contained channel. Material to be separated were fed into a hopper, and gravity caused the material to fall into the machine and into the path of the air currents. A series of sieves (or riddles) of varying fineness were positioned in front of the blast, and these sorted the settling material into finer and finer heavier particles as the lighter, and usually undesirable, particles were blown out the side. Early fans were rotated with a hand-crank. Some could be attached to a horse-power or run by steam engine. Often, farmers shared a single fanning mill; it was moved from farm to farm as needed. Winnowing is also a part of the modern combine.
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5 pointsThis round nose showed up on my door step around 9:30 last night. According to the belt guard it may be an 854, not sure though. The engine that is in it is a K161, not a K181. The realest in me says "Part it out". The dreamer in me says "You don't have an 854" A P.O. smashed the crap out of the carb & air cleaner. Fuel pump and the hood are missing. Either way, I think that the HY pump was worth the price of admission & the rear tires are not in bad shape either.
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5 pointsMy grandson plowing with his 520HC -- upstate NY northwest of Albany --- 10 inches and counting
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5 pointsDon‘t need a calendar or something else, i live in a Valley and here we know: Springtime is, when you can smell first time the fertilizer... Yes, we have spring.... Farmer‘s rules 😎
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5 pointsShame on you ... sitting here on a fresh eight I got no money in at all ... well very little anyway. Know I got the rest too you don't go gettin crazy anal orginal on me. Dingus is wasting good round hoods on stupid ceiling fans. I know yer sitting on a choice square pan...
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5 points
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5 points
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4 pointsNot hardly. Told my wife to strap me to a tractor and send me off into the woods. 😬
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4 points
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4 pointsI hadn't posted much on this tractor for a couple years after it was finished. I was actually pretty afraid of the engine build I had done (it started life as a vertical engine, and I bought all the parts to make it horizontal), and I wanted the foot control to be better. So the last few days I finally decided to "knuckle up", and she's now a runner. A darn nice runner if I say so myself! So today, she drove around for the first time. New hour meter recorded 0.4 hours. Foot control works great but is too tight. Easy fix. Engine oil pressure is hard to see, but makes 43 PSI at 3000 RPM. Still a few tiny tweaks to make, but she's all set for work!
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4 pointsA hood and front wheels is all you're missing .... Not many round hoods left. I would keep it.
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4 pointsNever thought of it as such. Kind of curious on how this works, there is a guy on the tube that has built a small home version with a Plexiglas front. Really cool to watch the process.
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4 points
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4 points
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4 pointsAs Monty Python would say: "Just a flesh wound..." Some curds, wee bit o' bourbon, parts from @WHX??'s shed... good to go.
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3 pointsLooks like now is a good time to make sure that the tow/push valve is working. Nice and easy to get to as it sits.
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3 pointsPersonally, I would have put the ladder on the forklift or loader bucket!
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3 points
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3 pointsPART IT OUT DAN !!!!! I want the hydraulics LOL Isn't that steering wheel a 63 ? Probably the hardest thing to change on a tractor
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3 pointsAt this point it would be best to remove the rear end housing of the starter/generator to have a look at the brushes and to look for any problems with the terminals inside the S/G. It’s possible that with all the removal and installation and bumping around, it could free up a worn out or stuck brush to give you the inconsistent problem you are having. And with all the wrenching on the terminal connections, the A & F terminals could have broken insulators inside the S/G causing connection problems inside the S/G. -JD-
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3 pointsAs @squonk and @ebinmaine have said, that sounds acceptable to me. If you have an old headlamp or other load you could ad to the tractor for testing and you don't end up with below 12.5 volts then that will prove that the generator is doing its job.
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3 pointsTry a heavy jumper from a bare spot on the genny body directly to Batt neg sound like the genny isn't grounded well.
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3 points
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3 points@RED-Z06 Here's a thread that has some useful information: Remember that a very small change might be all you need. Ideally you want a mid-13V charge but at 13, 13.1 I'd be prone to leave it for a bit. Proper unused disconnected battery reading is 12.45V or a little more.
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3 points
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsKevin accumulates frequent visitor points at the ER, every tenth visit is on the house.
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3 pointsI think you have the wrong band. Hole should be on the left. A double hole band is needed, or try drilling another hole.
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2 pointsOn my 702, the new reg/rec got it charging, my new volt gauge shows it recovers after starting to right at 13v and stops rising, as long as its over about 2000 rpms it goes to 13.0 to 13.1 and stays. Is it possible to increase output? I tried running it at 3600 rpms for 45 minutes after the engine rebuild and it made no difference.
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2 points
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2 pointsI would go over it thoroughly before deciding its a parts machine. You just might be surprised. I hauled one that had been sitting in weeds for decades. It did not need much to get it running again. In fact I wound up keeping it because it runs so well.
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2 points
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2 pointsThat double pulley setup on the engine and starter/gen was unique to the 1961 model 701. But it’s not a 701 going by the slotted grill, newer style footrests and the type of tie-rods. Plenty of guys here that are better at identifying these older models than me…hopefully they chime in soon.
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2 pointsMy thoughts exactly. I straightened the band while still on the tractor but it was too full of muck to leave it. That's grass dirt grease etc. While cleaning that all out the show fell out. Off to the parts shelf I went. Found an older C series piece that has two holes AND a good shoe.
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2 pointsPull the band off and twist it back into shape. Drill a hole on the other side of the flange and adjust it properly then give it a try. The only cost is time.
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2 pointsUnder the seat you should see the mechanisms involved. Find a manual for your tractor and look over the linkages for the pedal. Worn parts and or sloppy connections of the linkages will not always allow for the precise return to a neutral position because it's such a fine line on the trans arm linkage from neutral to go. Is it not even slowing it down or moving towards neutral at all? That would indicate a linkage piece might have broken or came off or something of that nature. If it's moving towards neutral but not stopping at that precise point between forward and reverse, it's more than likely worn parts. There is some adjustment by the cam under the seat but sometimes they can't be adjusted enough to make up for worn parts. Just my limited hydro experience. I can't leave the seat with the tractor running because the vibrations will make it creep into motion and it could go off driverless. PITA when working on it sometimes and I need to fix that.
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2 pointsDidn't you get a new switch from @new to horses? Jumper right off the Ram... some serious CCA going on there... I need to get off my duff and do that SG rebuild instructional since I play with them alot. I have all the pics just need to sit down a do the writing.
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2 points
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2 pointsDarb I never did have a 1067 wish I could one day. I hope you get better so you can enjoy it. Can you post some pictures of it .
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2 points
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2 pointsI like the hanging tractas even because i knew there will follow more. Call it intuition or however you want.... The Strictly OSHA Conform Ladder use is spectacular.🥳🤪😎 Could imagine you be next time invited for an Article in an OSHA Magazin at - „prevent this“ 😂
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2 points
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2 pointsThe map above is from the National Weather Service. I find around here they're the closest overall. Makes sense considering all the other weather sources use the NWS as a main indicator. Your camp has 12+ potential. Maybe no sleet for you? We should be good to go here. Plenty of wood. Water for coffee. A tractor to work on in the basement workshop.
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2 pointsI got at least one 8 HP carb. If it'll work.. and if you restore/ re- whatever... it's yours.
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2 pointsThe Power Washing Department got after the replacement frame today. Then a wash with acetone. Then some Rust-Oleum 2X Satin Canyon Black.
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2 pointshere is my tribute, this is my 1962 R32 lawn ranger with the back wheels off, that is the first day I got it