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What caused the agricultural depression during the Roaring Twenties? Numerous posts I’ve done have made mention of the agricultural depression that followed the end of World War One and its negative impact on farm machinery and tractor manufacturers. I have studied the history of that economic downturn and found that it was a simple matter of supply and demand coupled with some irrational exuberance. Midwestern grain farmers did well during the first decade and a half of the twentieth century. The Homestead Act provided availability of vast expanses of fertile land and the westward expansion of the railroads provided an affordable means of shipping harvests to eastern metropolitan areas. European immigrants with farming experience and skilled craftsmen alike migrated to the Midwest. Many communities sprung up along railroad lines with large Co-Op grain mills and elevator/storage silos to help farmers send their crops to eastern cities and foreign markets. The Industrial Age was providing improved agricultural equipment and agricultural research had brought about greater crop yields. Also, hardy winter wheat development meant that crops could be harvested and shipped in the summer when weather was more favorable. The wealth of a farmer was only limited by their ability to plant and harvest more land, demand and prices were rising and times were good. With the outbreak of World War One in 1914 the demand for grain went up dramatically because most European farm lands had become battlefields. The European breadbasket countries were now at war with Great Britain, France, Belgium and Italy cutting off their normal source of grains. The demand was increased as Allied nations brought in troops and horses to aid Western European countries in the war effort. Prices for corn went up from $0.99 per 100 pounds in 1913 to $ 2.58 in 1919. Wheat prices shot up from $ 0.90 a bushel to $ 2.45 in the same timeframe. Demand was exceeding supply and farmers were buying more land and equipment to produce more and more crops believing that the increased grain prices would go on forever. Even after the Armistice ending World War One was signed in November of 1918 the worldwide demand was strong because recovery in Europe took time. The net income of U.S. farmers, after paying for supplies, rent, taxes, and interest on their loans and mortgages, increased 120 percent from 1914 to 1919 (the net income of the non-farming population increased 75 percent during those years). The booming farm economy supported the manufacture and sale of agricultural equipment. Small manufacturers were turning out agricultural equipment and skilled workers were making improvements to existing devices and inventing new ones to aid the farmer. By 1920, European agriculture was returning to normal, pre-war trade with former enemies had been re-established. European nations had borrowed so much money from the U.S. that they no longer had money to buy food from U.S. farmers. This led to a collapse in demand and a rapid decline in farm prices. Corn dropped from a 1918 high of $2.58 per100 pounds to $0.79 per100 pounds in 1922, wheat went from $ 2,45 a bushel to about $ 1.00 at the same time. Many farmers had borrowed heavily to buy more land and equipment during the war years. Almost overnight, they were crushed by low prices for their production and hefty fixed costs for equipment payments, taxes and interest on loans and mortgages. Prices for grain rebounded somewhat after 1923 but burdened with heavy debt loads farmers weren’t buying any new equipment. The value of farm crops dropped relentlessly beginning in 1925 until 1932. Wheat prices were $ 0.49 per bushel and corn dropped to $0.44 per 100lbs in those years. Black Friday, October 1929, may have begun the Great Depression for the rest of the economy but agriculture in the midwest had already been suffering for ten years prior to the depression. War is an undesirable way to end an economic catastrophe but as World War Two began in Europe the demand for U.S. farm products increased and prices rebounded. Wheat prices rose from about $0.70 per bushel in 1940 to over $1.90 per bushel by the end of 1946. American grain helped feed starving nations and became a significant component of foreign aid after World War II. The Great Depression began 10 years earlier for midwestern grain farmers and farm equipment manufacturers than it did for the rest of the nation. Those who were, relatively free of debt, and good at tightening their belts were able to make it through the bad times between 1921 and 1941. Late arrivers, those who expanded their farms at inflated, wartime prices, and those who overextended their debts and mortgages, struggled and sometimes lost everything.

Hello I just bought a 1990 wheelhorse 520h. 370 hrs, and came with snow pusher, snowblower, mower deck, tiller and disc, all in amazing like new shape. Alao came with chains, weights, and all the manuals. I bought it because I don't want to drive all over the state looking for attachments. I paid 1800 for it. I hope that's a fair price. Anyway I've read that the onan engine is junk. Is that true? Are these reliable little machines? Is the year a bad or good year? it started right up and drove around easy enough. So I'm hoping I can get a couple gardening seasons out of it before any repairs. I do have wonderful mechanic neighbors if something does go wrong. What kind of maintenance should I do on it right away? Change fluids? What else? Also, I found a kwik way loader for it for 1500. I'd love to get it but since id need it delivered someone else may beat me to it. Is this worth bending over backwards to get? I could see if my husbands uncle could help... Thanks in advance for any advice or info on my new machine.

Jim pulling an 8" plow with my 701. Could have use a little extra weight in the rear (wheel weights or fluid in the tires) and some weight up front to keep it on the ground. Other than that it did real well with the 6 x 12 ag's on the rear.

With briggs & Stratton, killing off both the Simplicity and Snapper names , l guess another door opens . While watching TV I see a ad for the new Stihl gas powered zero turn mowers I noticed it looked just like my 2016 simplicity courier . Doing a quick search it seems Stihl is buying their new line up of homeowner and contractor grade mowers from Briggs . Briggs kept the Ferris line of mowers but did they totally kill off the Simplicity line of homeowner grade zero turns . I haven’t seen one in person yet to see if they are using the Ferris ( which were built a little beefier) or the old Simplicity line for the homeowner grade. Their professional series looks just like the Ferris commercial series . I guess in my opinion it’s great to see some orange mowers still coming off the line .

I also used the PVC ring method. Trimmed the rings down to keep the tires real close, and shot em with some red paint.

You looked awfully chipper on one... So, I'm in the same boat this dude's in... No one at Wheel Horse will pick up the phone and help me out with questions on my two E-141's or my A-60...!!!

Sorry for the bad pics. Allis Chalmers mid grader blade converted to a back blade Converts to a mid grader. My Economy Power King with a loader built here from Economy drawings (Bucket is different design) home made front weight bracket and barbell frt. wheel weights Converted this planet Jr. disc to a mid disc

These 2 make 18 Wheel Horses. I told the wife I'd stop when I have 25.....maybe...lol

If you are talking about getting a moldboard plow, then you can run duals on the left hand side of the tractor but not on the right hand side. The right hand tires need to run in the furrow and a dual wheel would not allow for this. Example:

I just finished building a leaf blower for the front of my horse. It moves an insane amount of air! I built a custom frame out of scrap metal to hold it on. You can feel a breeze at 55 feet away.

Michigan Weather Machine. Very accurate. Never needs batteries.

I can't top the chicken plucker, but almost everything I have is saddled with homemade attachments. Not to mention none of my machines are not modified in some way. Most would be more accurately described as "Frankenstein" if I'm being honest. One has the crane attached. One has a 3 point hitch. Several are repowered. The only factory implement I have is a couple decks and a tiller. I even have a modified Exmark deck on a tractor. Built my FIL a leaf vacuum for his Charger. Point being, one common theme in this thread is that you can make most anything work on these tractors!

I run 30W Rotella all year. 857 starts instantly even in winter.

Mine was from a forced hot air heating system. It was a $10 auction buy. The pulley was with it so I only needed to add the adjustable elbow and the belt tensioner pulley.

Added a big sticker on the 523-H hood. Tried to talk the wife into putting one on her truck window, but she said "no thank you". ...Or might have been "I'll kill you"? I wasn't really paying attention.

First a Aluminum FEL - for a 212 - ok that was my first machine - that addicted me not a real Wheelhorse but i got it 1,5 Years later - however it works and can be adapted if needed. One and a half year later i got me an 656 as a “ daily driver“.. For lot‘s of Fun i built me few Thingis to simplify my Work... I love my broom each Autumn simply and reliable can be used with my selfmade Plowframe The Selfmade garden Cart - made out of an collapsed Pavillon doesn‘t look that stable but it can easy take a load up to 200 Kilos (allready tested) because here wheelhorse parts be ultrarare i made me few myself like the Snowplow including Frame enlarged Tiller with improved Engine 6 HP and enlarged to 90cm workwidth selfmade Adapter for original Wheelhorse rear lift insert. The next Attachement was a Double side Tilt plow Can be arrested in 5 different steps modified Pulley driveshaft with zerk fitting and many more...

Moved tractor to shop. Installed seat. Installed seat gas lift and fender protectors. Hooked up headlights. Overall view of tractor as of today.

Awesome! Be careful. I told my wife she could get a "critter" for every tractor I got. ...she quickly exceeded me. I have no more room for tractor storage, but we live on a farm. I'm screwed!

Sylva: you have electric Wheel Horses how much oil do they take?

I just run Rotella 30wt diesel oil. Plenty of zinc and only $18 to $27 per gallon depending on where you get it. Don't really recommend running 20-50. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T1-SAE-30-Conventional-Heavy-Duty-Diesel-Motor-Oil-1-Gallon-API-CF-2-CF-SL/958899660?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=3004&adid=22222222277958899660_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-306310554666&wl5=1016367&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=958899660&wl13=3004&veh=sem_LIA&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=22222222237958899660_117755028669_12420145346&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-306310554666&wl5=1016367&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=958899660&veh=sem&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-vebpvPQhAMVUklHAR02QA6hEAQYAiABEgJLKfD_BwE

Nice find with very low hours !! The Onan is a great engine, just not very fuel efficient, and kind of expensive when repairs are needed. Make sure that all of the cooling fins on the cylinders are clean. It is best to run 3/4 or greater throttle to maintain cooling. One thing to consider with the loader - You would need to remove the loader in order to most of the other attachments that you have. Most people have a dedicated tractor just for a loader.

Thank you all, based on your input I took the chance and bought the wheel weights for 2000NOK / $190, seems like a fair price based on what has been said in this thread and a quick search on Ebay (see snip below, $625 for only the front ones!) My cousin will go pick them up and bring them to me next time he visits, so it will be some time before I will find out if they fit. I promise to take pictures and report back!

I hate sheet metal work. I also severely dislike whoever cut up this belt guard. Done for the day. Hopefully tomorrow when my sticker pack is delivered from Terry, I'll be motivated to finish up...

From what limit research I have done, it seems this is true.

Got some steekers today! I've been buying Terry's decals since 2007, and am still amazed every time I get them. The quality is amazing, and the attention to detail as well. Guess I need to hurry up and finish this one. My Kohler letters moved accidentally but I fixed them.

Comeing project is in the upper of the top Pict. In the upper Pic you also can see my Jackshaft on the Horse... Needed for my „Sucidal Disc Mower“...😎 no Molehole or bushes or even small Stumps will destroy this mowerblades it flatenes all out. but take care on your feet... 🤫😁 Extremely dangerous but also effective.

Now that is a first, for anything associated with me! Greatly appreciated!

No way, I'd call it "Einstein".

Polished shift knobs best I could by spinning them on a stud mounted in the drill press. I used scotch brite, then 2000 grit sandpaper followed by rubbing compound then back to black polish. Not perfect but a lot better than they were.

Now now... I still maintain one dino-juice C-105. It's the one that started it all, so it isn't going anywhere... I've been on hold with Wheel Horse corporate for two years now trying to speak with someone about where the oil fill and drains are on my E-141's and the A-60... they don't show up on the owners manual graphics...

Make sure you keep the rotor balanced, and I would put the large pulley back on and keep the tractor RPM around 1000.

There is no need for duals to plow with. But I love duals regardless. I have more of the 12” PVC and have shipped a piece of it in the past. @ebinmaine and @OldWorkHorse (?) got enough to make a set each. This video here though kind of explains how a skinny tire adds traction, where a wide tire adds flotation. Skinny (single) tires will likely give you more bang for your buck than duals. Add weight and more weight and even fluid fill your tires and you’ll be surprised what you can accomplish!

Here's how i did it... tractor is now at@Pullstart Stables... 12" pvc

I finished building a leaf blower last night. It moves an insane amount of air. The frame is built out of some scrap metal. Thanks for the ideas.

I had an issue trying to use the ring type where the tire were to close together. I figure on your 701 those would work fine. I like the style shown myself.

You have gotten a reasonable deal on a good tractor. Learn to search this site for manuals and posts that address questions you might have--LOTS of good info in the years of postings stored here. And don’t be afraid to start a thread and ask, just as you did here! Preventative maintenance on the Onan will go a long way to extending its life. MANY of these engines deliver over 1,000 hours of good service. The most risk, in my opinion, is not having adequate cooling airflow, especially on the rear cylinder. Address this in two main ways: 1. Keep the cooling fins clean and unclogged. This means removing the shrouds so you can get a good look and access to clean as needed. If you are mowing dry grass, for example, this might be an annual chore. Clean also means clean oil filter changes. When changing the filter, be extra careful not to let oil drip inside the shroud (the service manual gives good guidance). Drips will find their way to coating the rear fins and collecting dust/debris which prevent good cooling. 2. Keep the gasket that seals the engine oil filter to the shroud in place and intact. This is an inexpensive part and worth every penny as it keeps cooling air from escaping before it has a chance to cool the rear cylinder head.

I’m not gonna be rising to that particular challenge. A man’s got to know his limitations.

Sorry you had a bad experience with the scammer. I built my own narrow front with stuff that was in the scrap pile, here is the build thread.

Knowing what little bit I do about the making of seats - The vinyl is heated and then draped over a mold that has pinholes in it. A vacuum is created to pull the vinyl down into the mold in order to form it. A precise amount of liquid foam is then poured into the mold and another mold is placed over the top of the first mold to form the back side of the foam. After the liquid has expanded the 2 molds are separated. The finished vinyl / foam piece is then stretched over the backing plate. Glue is then used to fasten the edges of the vinyl to the backing plate. Sometimes a trim lock is also placed around the edge of the backing plate for a nicer finish.

Why? I'm not a big fan of narrow front lawn tractors. I did have a couple of narrow front ag tractors, about 3, all Farmalls. But I wouldn't bother making any tractor into a narrow front if it was already a wide front. Just isn't my cup of tea.

That probably was an owner modification because it is not shown in the advertising illustrations. Illustrations show a high snorkel for the air intake. I think that worm gear on the steering could could use a little grease, what do you think?

Maybe you come out better finding a tractor, “Wheel Horse of Course”, that needs some work. Then you can make it what you want. I bought my 1994 520-H, a leaf vac, 36” rototiller, and 48” side discharge deck for I think around $140. Then I set about bringing her back up to usable and presentable shape. I acquired my 1984 Work Horse GT-1600 for free. It needed a fuel pump to run according to the PO, but in actuality it needed a bit more, especially to suit what I wanted it to be. It came with a 42” side discharge deck and a homemade mid mount scraper blade. I bought my 1977 C-160 for $400. It came with a 42” side discharge deck. I am currently working on it… And yes I did spend a fair amount on the tractors getting them to where they are now… tires for one are expensive, paint, parts, etc., but I believe they will last until I’m gone with a little maintenance and needed small repairs.

I was planning on putting a fel on it Sylvia... Time to bust out the welder I'm sure I could fit one up to Richard's electric jobby. Any of those govment funds left @953 nut? Good thing you got bros to help you out then...

Just another thought, You can run the blower very slow and increase the air velocity by decreasing the discharge area. Something like this could be modified to create a wide high velocity sweeper.

Summit racing does this on a few things. Like the "water jug" fuel jugs (which are awesome BTW) that specify "not for use with flammable liquids"... I think it's part of the business model, being racing specific, thier items are not for regular highway use. Word play keeps them out from under certain regs. Legally at least.

A note of caution - you probably still have the 3-of-5 cast iron rear hubs. They are rather delicate and with the added side load may fail. You may wish to consider upgrading to the 854 or 855 style full circle 5 bolt hubs. And be sure to add a second lock screw at 90 degrees to the original if it has only one....

Hope you give it a few coats of Regal Red. Nice job.

Agreed, but as a museum piece it wouldn’t be as pretty.

Refreshed some front rims using a card board trim. (we don't have playing cards). lol just cut an oval out overlap the pieces, of course got to push the bead down some.