Leaderboard

Welcome to Red Square👍👍 Here are a few pics of my main “Attachment”. Actually, more a device to attach my attachments to. Built from mainly scrap metal, apart from the winch! Plus a few other things that the C121 handles with relative ease! IMG_0822.mov IMG_0822.mov

I built one several years ago, very simple and not too expensive. The rake tines came from Agri supply https://www.agrisupply.com/hole-landscape-rake-tine/p/10454/ The cross bar the tines attach to is two inch, 1/4" thick angle iron and the drawbar is two inch by 3/4" flat bar charved down to fit the sleeve hitch. Simple to make and works well.

LITTLE BULL - BIG BULL – BIG FAILURE D. Maurice Hartsough began experimenting with gas tractors as early as 1899. After several unusual attempts he developed a viable tractor and took on financier Patrick J. Lyon as a partner forming the Bull Tractor Company. The Bull Tractor Company of Minneapolis, Minnesota, developed its lightweight, 3 wheeled tractor in 1913. Its engine was a twin cylinder 12 hp engine delivering 5 hp at the drawbar. This first model, known as the "Little Bull" sold for just $335 and farmers snapped them up as fast as they could be built, with close to 4,000 sold in the first eight months or so. The Little Bull was joined by the “Big Bull” in 1915. The “Big Bull” featured a 25hp Twin cylinder engine developing 10hp at the draw bar. Both were basically designed for plowing but could also be used for pulling implements. They had a small front wheel, a large cogged Drive wheel and a big rear wheel that was much like a sidecar to keep stable when ploughing. The front wheel and drive wheel would both be in the furrow while plowing and the second rear wheel would be on the landside. These tractors tended to be a bit top heavy and were prone to tip over to the right side. Hartsough patented a propping arm attachment for the right side that would swing out if the tractor leaned too far and keep it from tipping over. Other tractor companies copied the concept of a three wheeled tractor. The Peoria 8-20 tractor and Grain Growers Special 12-24 tractor were very similar to the Bull design. Under its tin work, the Case 10-20 was also quite like the Bull. Bull never had a factory of their own and contracted the building of their tractors to other companies. This caused problems because the subcontractors decided to build tractors under their own name leaving Bull Tractor unable to fill orders so the Bull firm went bankrupt about 1920. Though the Bull Tractor company had gone bankrupt Mr. Hartsough wasn’t out of the tractor business, more on that tomorrow.

Weight box Lift crane Plow lift using winch

My front tiller.

The Chicken Plucker...one of my faves. Unveiling: tub style chicken plucker implement - Implements and Attachments - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

I named the Ripper Jack - Jack the Ripper!!. I also have a telescoping tree limb lopper namaed Cyndi - Cyndi Lopper!!

Have a Great Day Mike

I made a ripping edge for the plow - had to remove grass after the new driveway went in... flips up easily to use the plow to smooth....

Happy Birthday Mike! Found this litter critter for ya

Not eating anything that comes from our lab people

I’m just curious on what attachments people have made or modified for their wheel horse. I’m planning on making some more attachments for my horse and I could use a couple ideas. Share some pictures and some questions! Thanks

Hello, Can anyone ID these wheel weights? We own a 1054 and a D-200, do they fit any of these tractors?

The photo is confusing , did Squonk get a Howard for his birthday or did Howard get a Squonk ?

Not homemade, but a good brochure of WH attachments. A good summary of Official and Allied Wheel Horse attachments - Implements and Attachments - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

For attachments Back hoe Modified a chipper/shredder to run of the WH Modified a walk behind rotary broom to fit on the front of a WH

Changed the throttle cable on the 550 today, then out for a ride.

Check out this video and do the rebuild yourself.

There is, in fact, a ROLL PIN holding the motion control arm to the pump side shaft. You MAY be able to get at it without removing the entire pump, but I doubt it. In any case, use only a Roll Pin Punch to drive out the roll pin. I've repaired a bunch of these, but always out of the tractor...on the bench.

The guy had an ice cream maker at the show

Sounds like a candidate for a primer bulb.

So I went to change stalls and it poured gas out the air cleaner like Captains out of Dan' jug. Crap I gotta get it running a pia to push around. 70's here today so first a bath. Cleaned up real nice. Got the dust off and caked on grime on the front of the motor. Dropped the bowl and cleaned and check the inlet valve... looked good to button it back up. Well...wait a minute should check the float...well that will do it. Replaced it @Mike'sHorseBarn with a used one off a junk carb. Did not use a carb kit. Never even took the carb off. That's yer job! Runs great again. Just because I can I got the old one empty and fixed. Not that I don't trust my fixes ... I don't ... so this one will stay here. Gotta love the way brass solders tho.

I don’t think those rears will fit the 15” 1054 wheels. I’m not 100% sure the fronts will work on the narrow front wheels of a 1054 either. @rjg854 is correct, the D series rear wheel valve stem is on the outside of the wheel so the weight needs to have the notch that you see in these pics.

Hard to top that one.

So in the fall I was given a dynamark riding mower for free. Who can turn down free? It had on the back wheels these wheel weights . I removed them and they been sitting in my garage all winter. So I'm out in the garage today tinkering with my 875 plow tractor when it occurred to me.... put those weights on the front tires !!!!! So I did. Guess I will see if it makes a difference NEXT winter. Gives me time to paint them to match the rears.

In NY, forests under state-approved management plans (which get a substantial property tax abatement as compensation) must have regular inspections by a licensed forester. The forester my son and daughter hired has come down HARD on this (and other environmentally damaging) behavior with fines against loggers. Steam beds, even seasonal ones, harbor contributors to the forest biome out of all proportion to more generally wooded areas.

Growing up on a farm in northern Iowa I was a huge Popeye fan as a young boy. I had been pestering my parents about getting me a "can of spinach" so I could be like Popeye...oh the innocence of youth... So one day my grandparents took me to town one day to do some "trading" at the local grocery. They bought me a can of spinach much to my delight. Unfortunately, after getting home the delight turned to a huge disappointment upon actually tasting the stuff. Never lost my affection for Popeye though....and then many years later found myself in the service of the Merchant Marine. Guess he had a bigger influence than I realized...

Happy Happy Squonky!

What do you get a squonk for his birthday? Not sure so I'll just say have a great one my friend, and many more of em. Mick

Starter/ Genny tractors used an expensive key switch to handle the approx 65 amps to start the engine. A solenoid is cheaper and built to handle the load.

Greene Co. Pa. 576 square miles of nothing! LOL My guy says there is usually not enough metal to keep the rotor in spec. They start out thin from the factory. It is all about just enough cause that equals dollars. If you really check into the offshore sources, global sourcing from investing to auto parts is alive and well. You would be surprised how much communist money is around us.

That experience will look good on her resume once this whole E-lectrik car fad goes belly up.....

The ground for the light is at the oil pressure switch. Not running or no oil pressure the switch should close and ground the light which is powered with the ignition switch in the run position. That ground wire from the oil lamp to the sender also powers the hour meter. When the oil switch is open (no light) there is enough current flow through the bulb to the ground wire to power the hour meter and theoretically not enough to light the bulb. If the oil switch closes this pulls the ground to 0 volts so light on and the hour meter is no longer powered. Wheel Horse always used a flashing oil light but in this model I don't know how that is done. If you remove the wire from the oil sender and with ignition in run position the hour meter should advance. This is done to prevent adding hours when not running - key accidently getting left on. Just click on the picture to enlarge it

Ok I may have just figured it out. I flipped the seal and drove it in with a 1/2” copper pipe scrap (straight cut and de-burred) and felt it “seat”. Going to monitor for leakage.

One gang is back assembled again, should have the 2nd done shortly, as well as the 2 uprights and the 2 rear connector arms. The rear crossmember I still have to strip, clean, prime and paint..but it should be done today. That will wrap up the rear portion.

Many Happy Returns Sir🎁. Have a great day 💃🕺🏼🎂🎈🎉🥃🍾🍺🥂and many,many more! Doug🇬🇧.

So while washing noticed this. Might as well check it out Tamara @Pullstart ... see if the hubs need broaching.

And D series runs a 12” rear wheel, bs the 1054 running a 15”

Never had a truck of my own. I always borrowed dad's or my father in laws for my horse wrangling adventures. Today I changed that. I hope to get years and years of service out of this rig! 2024 Ram 2500 Big Horn.

That looks amazing. Thanks for the pics. I may have to build one of those, it looks really useful.

These skiddah roads through forests are often below the grade of adjacent soil due to compression by the heavy machinery. Getting good drainage without erosion and without introducing additional material is a serious challenge to good forest management, especially on sloping terrain or borderline wetland. We have a similar situation at our camp. One solution we’re strongly considering for certain wide, rutted trail sections is to use a ripper to loosen the compressed soil, pull some material from the side “banks” into the ruts and then completely discontinue use of that trail and allow the forest to re-absorb it. Where needed for access, we'll cut a new, much narrower trail around or in parallel for our small tractor and for walking that will not compress the soil to the same degree.

I'm showing this to Phyllis! She's the pie lady. Expect a visit!

Oh No its your birthday ,I was going to send you a BBQ'd goat but all the BBQ's are now Tex Mex or Chinese take aways Guess you will have to wait another year for your present.

I was the " brake lathe guy " at Napa. It was a PITA. Only dealerships had their own lathes. The independent shops wouldn't spend the money on their own lathe. Then the shop would call 10 minutes after the rotors and drums would arrive and want to know if they were done yet!

Excellent. Looks like it was never used.

I'll include another pic of the motion control apparatus.

Looks like a factory job! Nice work.

Almost done with this little fella, so I rolled it out in the sunshine today. All tractors need a little sunshine, especially those with fresh paint! The cows didn't seem interested for whatever reason. Still got a few more things to do. Electrical, decals (ships tomorrow from Terry), and yes- finish painting the front wheels. And the dreaded belt guard... I'm guessing the PO wanted access to the idler without removing it. Gonna be a fun fix for sure!