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Spring Tooth Harrow Yesterday we rolled dirt using several plows that have evolved over several centuries. Now it is time to smooth the field and remove stubble and rocks in preparation for planting. D. L. Garver patented the spring tooth drag Harrow in 1869. The Osborne spring tooth harrow was an improvement on the Garver drag harrow with a steel frame rather than a wooden frame. A drag harrow, a type of spring-tooth harrow is used to smooth the ground as well as loosen it after it has been plowed and packed. It uses many flexible iron teeth usually arranged into three rows. The rows of teeth are raised/adjusted with one or multiple manual levers. .It pulls up large rocks which may then be picked up manually and put in a stone box to remove from the field. The drag harrow also kills some weeds that may be present, but it is not very efficient in doing so due to its highly flexible teeth, hence it is not one of its primary functions

Finally was able to test out my 1045 clone. Did fantastic! With the tire and weight set up I didn’t slip once. Very pleased with this tractor. Will have a video out soon.

Whereas it was going to be a miserable day here in southwest Missouri, I decided it as a good day to double smoke a supple of bacon. Our son in law showed up last week with ten pounds of "restaurant style" bacon. (What ever restaurant style is--just looked like a big box of thin sliced bacon.) We ended up with about 20 bags of bacon of eight slices each. Then this afternoon, I played with model train.

@Ed Kennell

I was a little nervous, but the 312-8 worked great. 9 " heavy snow. The Kohler was strong and that deep growl while diggin was killer. The 2 stage is very heavy for the small frame, under way its a beast traveling raised it has some weight out front. 150# weighted out back. i was a happy operator after 23 hours in a loader.

It's a procedure best done in a machine shop IMHO. The degree of accuracy required not to mention special tools that the average hobbyist doesn't have. Often the block needs to be heated or the guides cooled for proper press fit. After installing the guides will need to be reamed to proper size so it should be a bare block for cleaning. Not to say it can't be done DIY but not by this cat.

Glad @WheelHorse_Kid was prepared for the snow because my tractor is in pieces in the garage. He wasn’t home this weekend so I had to jump on his trusty C-121 and plow out our driveway. I think he’s going to be pleasantly surprised how well this beast does. Even the heavy wet snow out by the road from the town plows and the melt were no match. But cmon it’s wheel horse we all knew it could and would do it.

Went to my sister's house this past weekend in KY for a holiday visit. While I was there, I did some routine and non routine maintenance on her '86 417-A. Routine included oil and filter changes, chassis and deck lubes, and blade sharpening. Non routine included changing out the front 6" wheels that it came with, to 8" wheels that it should've had. I also changed out the lift actuator with one that i rebuilt due to typical shaft leaking. I bought this machine for her 2 years ago and she's put 30 hours on it since then. I was impressed with how good the POR-15 head up on the deck underside and how quiet the spindles still were after being rebuilt with new bearings 2 years ago. IMG_4366.mp4

Terry - Welcome. Sounds like a cylinder leakdown test is in order. Could be needing rings, valves, or both. A worn or tapered cylinder bore will not give good service on a discount rebuild... A clogged or improperly installed breather will result in excessive crankcase pressure that results in excessive oil consumption. Same for overfilling the crankcase..... Bill

No Way! More Fake News. That's got to be typo! Probably should say 60 We need pictures, lol

Pretty straight forward. If you don't have cylinder measuring tools, I would take it to a good small engine machine shop and have it measured. They can determine what it needs. Maybe you'll be lucky enough to just need a cylinder honing and new rings.

Not going to lie, I am a bit envious of those of you who have snow to plow or snow-blow. I've been more than patiently waiting here in Michigan for some snow! I'm sure @Pullstart is waiting for snow for his snowmotractor!

Cleat, it's a great set up. I was just thinking back when I "had" my wheel horse machines. Heck since living by the beach on this tiny lot I like to follow along, particular in winter. And remember how much fun I used to have doing the same stuff all of you are enjoying now. With the weights I could just take them off for the mowing season on my property. Thanks for the memories.

I guess either would work but all I have is one set of plastic ones that did not seem very heavy and stuck out past the tire (I have 3 Wheel Horses with loaded tires). It was fairly cheap for me to load the tires with plumbing antifreeze and they gained a lot of weight. The loaded tires with 2 link chains have worked for this tractor and another 520H that I mount the 2 stage blower on occasionally and I have never been stuck yet in over 10 years.

Made this last night the bars for personal use the bars are rough cut, now to set these aside for curing a couple of weeks and there ready to use or gift to friends. The soap is unscented.

I noticed that after a while, it finds a sweet spot for sure.

The blower sometimes works better when you take a bigger bite - sometimes... All about engine condition, max RPM, and ground speed. These old workin' girls will tell you when they are happy - and when they are not. All about listenin' & learnin'....

Excellent workout for that beautiful mo-chine. You can make some changes like adding larger front wheels n tires and adding more weight rearward to counterweight the big blower out front.

I keep tellin ya peeps. Stop up anytime. I'll "let you" clear my driveway.

I don't call it a sickness. There are far, far worse things that one could spend money on! At least with a Wheel Horse, it is a useful addiction!

At the time your house was built indeed many of items in it such as sashes, cabinetry and possibly some moldings were built on site. Readly availability of such items was not easy and carpenters then were well versed and trained on making those items. Over the years due to increased mechanization and bulk availability of all items needed within a house, the ability and knowledge to make such items basically all but disappeared. If one has the time and a little patience the moldings you need can be easily made. Although I am not trying to advocate my methods, or as my wife calls it “ my madness” , hand tools are many times the simplest, easiest and most pleasurable way to do such a task. One does not need to make or have a dedicated plane. For short runs such as what you need for the top of doors using good straight clear material if you had access to a Stanley 55 you can duplicate almost any molding with the exception of a large crowns. As intimidating as the tool looks it is rather simple to set up and use and with a little practice and experimenting one can duplicate most moldings which is the original intent of the tool. It was introduced as an option to having a dozen or more planes in tool box each only dedicated to one specific function. In the photo below tool is in full array with all components installed but it is rarely used that way. I have over the years successfully made miles of moldings using it.

Clean up duty today for both tractors. The plow tractor got what I didn't get with the snowblower yesterday. Pushed the snow and ice to the right side of the driveway and then used the blower to send it out into the field. I think I'm ready for the rain that is coming tomorrow.

Just stumbled across this topic. Interesting project and I'll be following along

Spent a little time riding around on a set of harrows. When I was a kid one of my friends had a small farm and raised potatoes. When they harvested the potatoes, his dad would run the harrows down the rows to loosen dirt. Me and Steve rode on the harrows for added weight. We would drag burlap sacks and start picking. Odd but worked. I would say you can't do that today.

If you chain is wore out that you need to remove a link, your sprockets are wore out too. I had to replace the chain and sprockets on mine. I got the chain and sprockets from tractor supply. BUT the sprockets are 1 tooth different in the amount of teeth. I had to add a half link to make it all work.

Thank you sir!! Spent a bunch of time searching through posts because I knew this info was out there... I just never needed it before today, LOL. As it was, had to run it the way it is today and it tore through the 14" that fell last night, so.. all good for now.

Tom put his new toy to work today!

Made a lift height indicator. Took three tries to get it just right.

520HC plowing snow. 36 years old and still working great.

Link to the article: https://www.thedrive.com/news/behold-the-articulating-ford-f-150-ramp-truck-built-in-a-garage Excerpt from the sale page describing the original purpose: This 1991 F150 was a purpose built truck, not so much for recovery along open roads but for the use in big city’s; with all those parking ramps, and narrow roads. It’s quite difficult removing cars from those structures, and that is exactly what this one of kind truck was designed to do. This truck was a prototype and the only one manufactured. It was built to fit almost any small to medium size car or SUV. It won’t work on tall pickup trucks or vans ect. This truck articulates just behind the cab approximately 25°-30° degrees to either the right or the left. Hence the round shape of the bed. It has an extreme low load angle for clearance, which also helps with ground effects, and low bumpers on modern cars. As well as total overhead clearance in parking garages. All functions are controlled with a wireless loadar radio controlled key pad. This truck is highly maneuverable in tight spots, and easy to align with parked cars in ramps. It has a self centering ramp\ floor to eliminate body damage when loading and unloading. The ride height on tail board is approx 12″ in from ground.

I plowed up the ice, snow and slush and blew all that out into the field. Pretty much what I do after every snow. As you can see by the pictures there's not a lot of room to let snow pile up before I'd be out of room after a few storms. Another factor is if the wind blows out of the south across that field it drifts the driveway. So the lower I can keep the plowed up edge the drifting isn't as bad. And yes this is my regular routine. The tall shoot will throw it out into the field a good 30-40 feet. This snow was on the wet and heavy side. I kinda thought it would clog up, but it did just fine. When I use the blower I have it set a inch above the stone so I'm not blowing stone, because it will blow stone just as easy as snow.

Nice work @Andy N.

@TractorEd I’d say that you are correct with 12 to 2 .

Over 1/2 a qt of oil an hour is A LOT of oil and it would be surprising if that thing can burn that much and still be able to start. Are you sure it's not leaking out somewhere too? Pushing out of the case breather? Are there signs of oil on the tractor and the ground after it's parked? Look for the wet spots. Is there lots of smoke out of the exhaust?

OMG I can't believe it Alert the Media Ed Kennel is celebrating his 60th Birthday for the 30th time!!!!!!! Well from one "old fart" to another......Happy Birthday!!!!!!!

Enjoy your Birthday Ed and thank yo for all yo do for us here!!!

Hope you have a great day , you should pick up the ground hog FEL for your present. Hope you have many more birthdays.

2 more pages https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=1-0145&quick=1&type=downloads_file

The only thing I can think of that is that small would be the bolts that hold the headlight bucket in place? They were not metric from the factory but obviously someone could have replaced them by now.

@Navig8r recommend a specific , CHAIN , LUBRICANT , for that , gets into the fine points , also about a 1/ 2 " play on that chain set up , another free up area is the drive belt idler frame behind the blower , steel / steel , grease those contact areas , have also added a stiffer spring , ensuring , belt engagement , re greased all related pulleys , reducing , collective drag is what you want , that blower should / can move by hand at PTO drive belt point , would go over every movement point , for ease of motion , improve / enhance / insure , its smooth easy . spray chute base , linkage for easy swing . just some ideas , Pete '

Happy Birthday Ed, we are all glad you were born!

HAPPPPY BIRTHDAY ED!!!!

Had the c161 snowblower rig out today.

On the other end of the spectrum I listed a walk behind snowblower few years ago - never liked it wasn’t heavy enough esp if the snow was a little wet - plus I scored a tall shoot for the 416 - listed in August to get it out of my shed/way - never even expected a call - Add wasn’t up an hour - guy calls still have it - yep - says he can be here in 1/2 hour - backed the trailer up the driveway - handed me the full price …. I ask you don’t want to hear it run ? … nope I’m good he says - pushed it on the trailer strapped it down - up the road he went ….250 for a 12 15 year old MTD blower flew out the D way in August .. go figure

Got to blow some snow with my C-145 auto and 310-8 about 7” of wet heavy snow the snow just got too heavy for my single stage blower on the C-145 so I switched over to our big Ariens 1332 then did 2 rounds of clean up one right after we finished then one just about at 5:30 IMG_1752.MOV IMG_1750.MOV IMG_1749.MOV IMG_1751.MOV

I wish I were only 36... My wife is the photographer and will be thrilled that her work is appreciated. Yes Matt's foot control, hydraulic lift, and the quicker ground speed and non reduction steering on the HC make for a perfect plow tractor.

@953 nut WH sickness is nothing to be ashamed of. If I had a button for WH sickness I'd where it.

Found another use for a balance gear ⚙️