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Well guys here's my new member of The Herd a 1993 Wheel Horse 520h it has 734 hours about to turn over to 735. The deck needs a lot of attention but I have a different deck I'll put underneath it. Everything is there the motor was taken apart to replace the ignition module or trigger. Which I replaced in the same day I got it today so it's running and it's solid. Wiring has been gone through all new safety switches new wiring.

Thanks for reminding us what the subject of this thread had been. I love threads that get totally derailed to the point where nobody remembers what the problem was in the beginning. The best part is that the solution to the problem had nothing to do with the subject line of welding!

I started working at the young age of 19 in the NYC Carpenters Union. At that time I used a Sears carpenters tool box which I modified to keep tools in place and be a bit more convenient. Since we frequently moved from job to job throughout city it had to of course have wheels so interior was customized to keep all tools in place when upright. For posterity sake my oldest son decided to recreate that box now long gone. I have to say it couldn’t get much closer even duplicating all the tools I had in it.

I seen many in my time but not this greasy and oil/ and what else at 56 years old. So I have the time to do it right. I will clean every square inch. I had it all apart any way so I went one step further. Hope all of you have a great Holiday season.

Hello gents, I am looking for your opinions on this. I am wondering if I should switch my plow to the 418-C for the snow? Since I purchased the 8-Speed I really haven’t used it much other than to roll the lawn, so that’s kinda why I want to use it to plow. It has electric lift so I wouldn’t be lifting the plow manually. I’ve never plowed with an 8-Speed tractor, a 13 Speed truck yes but not an 8-Speed tractor 😂. I know the C is one of the fastest Wheel Horses ever built and that can be an advantage when plowing snow. What do you think?

Finished up on my 48" SD deck restore. Here is the finished product. New blades are on order. Enjoy!

Excellent work - amazing how far gone the housings were that the deck shell survived well.....

I started on this about 2 years ago, but got sidetracked by other projects and stuff. Here are some pics along the way.

So last night I had to replace a busted tie rod/ball joint on my 856. Today I took it for a test drive. Success, it steers again ! Before putting it back in the garage I remembered side shot Saturday.

I just use a cut-off wheel to cut the pin off on both sides of the tranny lug. Then drill out the part left in the lug from the right side. So the larger lug is taking the force from the drilling and pounding. I usually drill it open to 7/16" but not quite thru. Then use a long 3/8" drift and the BFH to drive it out. This way you are actually pulling and stretching instead of pushing and compressing the pin. The part left in the hitch goes to the vise, press, or drill press.

Steering wheel victory. Previous owner had replaced roll pin with Gr8 bolt that was frozen in place. Finally got it drilled out (oversize now) but wheel would not budge. Have used this method in the past but had to use the torch and get her glowing then wail away with a BFH and impact socket.. Once it cools I will clean up the top end of the shaft and the wheel will come off. The arm plastic covering was missing probably burned off by PO when he worked on it. Next challenge the hitch pin...wish me luck..

Just learned about that torx bit for rounded allen heads recently. Hopefully when I run into this issue I'll remember to try it.

I have never had an electric lift unit. from what I've read on here the lift is a bit slow so it would depend on how frequently you have to lift the blade. I have plowed snow with a 1055 (manual lift) and a 953 (hydro lift) gearjammer and with my 418-C and have become a fan of the hydro for snow removal. Every situation is going to be a bit different but in my case there are several places where there is a lot of short distance back and forth movement. At the house we back out of the garage into a turnaround ( 20 feet deep by 50 feet wide) and then drive forward down the driveway. With a four foot blade that makes for a bunch of gear changes. In front of my woodworking shop there is another area that is about 30 feet by 30 feet.

My 64 1054 and 87 414-8. Still re-doing the 1054 and the 414-8 is my worker. The 414-8 does garden duty, scraper duty, mowing and about anything I can think of. The 1054 will take over some work duties hopefully this spring.

Slowly working on it. Got to get those ugly white front wheels painted. Lol

Finished up my 48" SD mower deck project! Just waiting for blades to be delivered and spring!

The hydros with hydraulic lift are probably easier to plow with. That's why I would use the 8 speed. I just prefer them over hydros. If you find that it is a pain in the neck to plow with the 8 speed you can switch back to the hydro. Whatever makes you happy.

And just what model Kohler is sitting under the hood?? That one of those E-Lectic jobs ya use with a loooooong extension cord to cut the grass?? (and hopefully not the cord!) Funny looking pulley though.....

As per usual I'm VERY glad I asked for information here. Lots of great comments. Thank you. The Ball n Chain and I have been mulling over WHY we would go get the battery charger. I do have a couple spare batteries and the one from my truck that I keep in the basement. Those get charged every month or two for a day or two. Obviously that's a need for a charger in Low Amp range. So why else do we go get the old charger out? Almost. Every. Time... It's to charge a low or dead battery while in a tractor because we wanted to use the machine. 8 to 12 Amp charging is effective but slow and not very helpful. So there's obvious justification for the jump pack. We've decided to get TWO jump packs. One for each road vehicle. When we need to use it for a tractor it would be with us no matter what we are driving while away from home. I'm also going to order a fully automatic battery maintainer. I do have a couple Manual 1 Amp Chargers around but I like the mental security of the automatic modes.

6/8 spd same ratios

I think that you would be better off finding a happy medium in high range. Note: 3rd gear low is a lower gear than 1st gear high.

Only have housed hydros for 10 or more year plowing snow. Hydro lift is fast and easy. Faster direction changes and I have to do a lot of backing up to clear some ares and hydros are way faster in reverse that 8 spds.

From the Gear Driven Pair of EB & BBT in the Maine forest: Use the 8 speed. There are advantages to using a Hydro tractor with Hydro lift, yes. But the manual transmission is more fun to drive and more predictable in speed. I have a Hydro tractor for snow removal because of need. My plow is almost twice the weight of Trina's stock 42". I do enjoy the ease. Other than snow removal I don't even use the machine.

In my experience the Chinees build a much better carb than Tecumseh did. Briggs & Stratton never could make a decent carburetor, their worst attempt being the Flow Junk updraft. Best thing they did on their newer engines was to buy a carb from Mikuni or maybe it was Keihin. I have never had a Carter carb on a Kohler that could not be rebuilt and used so I have never bought an import carb for a Kohler. I have one Kohler with a Walbro carb that has survived a rebuild and is back in service as well.

I use a 875. Fire & Ice. Love the automatics for plowing. Pardon my dog Jeffrey. He gets excited when a tractor comes out.

I use green ones for boat anchors.

You guys got no stones... got a problem with round hoods do ya? Now Sparkeye you know I respect your tastes in horses but a fine roundy for moving stuff. Try it Mikey you'll like it...

My 310-8. Still can't decide if I like my paint job on the grill.

Make sure the ground is on a good clean metal surface as close as possible to the point you will be striking the arc. Path of least resistance ya know. You can remove the battery, engine, and all wiring, But with the ground at the wrong place, I would be more concerned about arcing thru bearings.

Can you weld on a horse without damaging electrical. Hey wait a minute didn't I lay a bead on a NOS A-60 Dan? How's that one running for ya Sylvia? Well as Ritchie @19richie66 might say... put the welder down, put you hands in the air and slowly step away... I used Bill's torx suggestion and hammered one in. Just as she was about to strip out it busted loose. Bill. Plan B was T bear's allen wrench. Did I mention I suck at welding? Broach the hubs, new hardware and call it a day for this girl for now. Gotta love it when seals leak and hubs slide right off.

Well my tie rod/ ball joint arrived today from @A-Z Tractor . Fast Shipping . I removed the old one and bolted on the replacement. Forsaken is back in action. Maybe in the spring I will replace both sides with new ones. For now I'm happy.

Chopped up some leaves with the 315-8 and a 42” SD deck. The preferred tractor for this task is the 414-8 with a 42” RD deck but she’s out of commission right now.

First tracks of the year!!!

Something like that. I have one that mounts on the back of my tractor and fills up a large trash can.

So back at leaf duty with the 1984 Work Horse GT-1600. I’m thinking burrito… three trips to the road… last trip I tore some grommets off the tarp popping the clutch in 3rd gear. Still have some stragglers, and knowing me I’ll have to get those too. Hear he, Hear he, let it be proclaimed and heard throughout the land… There is no easy, efficient, method to get up leaves ! The battle continues… Lost 30 minutes work time looking for where I left my Redsquare coffee mug… IMG_3395.mov

The 96 hr cure time is up so she gets gassed today. New sedimental bowl and plumbed. Next show season I'm gonna put the deck on for campsite mowing duty.

Wow. Math is not my subject. However, I have found that when it comes to pulling info (and I don't pull) this website has the most information, not only on pulling, but engine rebuilding and more. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/transaxl.htm

These ones here EB2? https://www.schumacherelectric.com/products/sc1319-1-5a-6v-12v-fully-automatic-battery-maintainer/ I have at least a dozen of these and only tossed one. There is a fuse inside that will blow if hookups are reversed. Mostly older ones. New ones are polarity protected. I've replaced a couple fuses. Note that they are not listed for charging but more for maintaining. Browse their site EB1 if you don't see something you like you ain't lookin. Some products might be a tad bit out of your budget tho.

I change out my equipment in the hopes that if I take the trouble to do so, then it probably won’t snow. Seems to work most of the time! If it doesn’t, I’m still good to go anyway. Good luck! OABTW, I implemented that front wheel chain improvement too this year. I think I got the idea from @ebinmaine. I am curious to see how it works.

Amen. Autos and tractors alike. I realize I could damage something. I also ride a motorcycle and tear the tags off my mattresses.

Hi Eric. I have an older jump pack and I’ve been thinking about the same thing and been doing some research lately. If I were to buy a new one the one I would buy is pictured below. It’s more than what you’re looking to spend, at $143. But it gets great reviews and is used by a lot of professionals. .

Not to high jack the thread but concerning chargers. If anyone has plans to move to lithium ion batteries (I use them in solar application) only the OLD chargers will charge them to full capacity. Smart chargers will not. The batteries have internal controls that stop the charging from an old style charger when full. Just an FYI to hold on to those old chargers.

I still have two of these old Schumacher's. No auto detect, will actually charge a dead battery unlike the new chargers that will not even start charging if the battery voltage is too low. Not fast but always get the job done.

Some light duty for the 875. Could have waited a day for it to melt but what fun would have that been !!

I’d start by removing the head and then cranking it over to see if the piston and valves are moving. No compression could be a valve stuck open. However I don’t think a valve sticking would make a banging sound. If the piston is not moving while cranking, then as the others said you have to tear it down and inspect. If no internal damage is done other than a broken connecting rod then it’s a pretty easy fix. By the looks of your tractor it is well worth fixing.