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And trade it to you for a Kohler?

My Uncle Jim taught me as long as it’s on the hood, it’s just as good as a welding bench!

The answer is: How difficult is it to find and replace and at what cost the electrical items you're worried about. I've welded on several tractors and unhooked the battery. If the tractor is Tecky powered, take the engine out.

Amen. Autos and tractors alike. I realize I could damage something. I also ride a motorcycle and tear the tags off my mattresses.

Never done it and i suck st welding but ain't afraid to try. After further review Bill it may come to that. Seals are leaking & almost bad bearings. Not gonna be this trip in the shop tho got other tractors to nurse. Thanks Ollie... their way of saying they don't know the answer...

Pull the negative cable & weld away.

I picked up a Dremel drill press and did a little experimenting with drilling out the brass screws from a choke shaft. With practice this could be used.

No shortage of sarcasm here today with this post! The guy asks a simple question and you guys go off with sarcasm! Personally I love it😂😂 Also not sure how @squonk knows that @Pullstart sleeps on straw, but whatever !…….

Straw has tags?

I typically remove the ground wire to the battery but have also done PLENTY of quick welding without doing so. Never hurt a thing so far. There's no sensitive space shuttle electronics on these old tractors to ruin.

You've received enough helpful and sarcastic comments, so I'll just wish you good luck.

Once the Techy comes out, it MAY not go back!! If if goes back in, use wingnuts!!!!!

I still have two of these old Schumacher's. No auto detect, will actually charge a dead battery unlike the new chargers that will not even start charging if the battery voltage is too low. Not fast but always get the job done.

@WHX?? Remember to wear your bed pan hat when welding .

For almost 25yrs and about 7 vehicles it's been the same thing. Wife's garter from our wedding.

Who knows Don ... Waldo also say Squonky checks Waldo's shorts for crap... says it's good Sqounky has a hobby. Me thinks Squonky has bedded down with Pullstart so he knows about the straw? i got my problem solved... thanks again Bill!

Make sure the ground is on a good clean metal surface as close as possible to the point you will be striking the arc. Path of least resistance ya know. You can remove the battery, engine, and all wiring, But with the ground at the wrong place, I would be more concerned about arcing thru bearings.

Bite your tongue!!

Wonder if he used his tongue to test the quality of the gear oil?

Can you weld on a horse without damaging electrical. Hey wait a minute didn't I lay a bead on a NOS A-60 Dan? How's that one running for ya Sylvia? Well as Ritchie @19richie66 might say... put the welder down, put you hands in the air and slowly step away... I used Bill's torx suggestion and hammered one in. Just as she was about to strip out it busted loose. Bill. Plan B was T bear's allen wrench. Did I mention I suck at welding? Broach the hubs, new hardware and call it a day for this girl for now. Gotta love it when seals leak and hubs slide right off.

Well my tie rod/ ball joint arrived today from @A-Z Tractor . Fast Shipping . I removed the old one and bolted on the replacement. Forsaken is back in action. Maybe in the spring I will replace both sides with new ones. For now I'm happy.

Just as what was mentioned above several times I would also just disconnect the battery (both terminals just to be sure) and weld away! The modern Claas tractors I work on clearly state that one should disconnect the battery on the tractor before welding on the tractor AND/OR connected implement. That being said, while our garden tractors are c no space shuttles by a long shot most modern tractors start to resemble them in terms of sensitive electronics. Hence the warning labels.

Don't over look the location of the ground clamp of the welder, all of that juice flowing from the rod has to get back to the welder's ground clamp (assuming an electric arc weld). The path it takes through the tractor will dictate what may or may not smoke. Basically you want it as close as you can to the weld joint so there aren't any sneak paths where it could cause damage.

Almost there.. and don't worry. The handles are just temporary!

And make sure your tongue is sticking out whilst welding. Get your head real close to the arc so you see good!

Key word here is "easily". Not a fan of MIG welding upside down. MAYBE best to pull the Unidrive and rotate it up.- NO electrical issues either that way... Welding the nut - have done that before - the heat from welding helps to make removal easier. Have you tried using a Torx bit?? The right size pounded in may do the trick. Done that too.

I wouldn't even THINK about doing any welding on a tractor unless the ground cable was disconnected at minimum. Not likely to hurt anything but ....

1st Tractor drive belt (RJ-35 with 6", 6-1/2", 7" jackshaft pulley) - WH 1564 nla {4Lx18.9" or 1/2" x 19"} - Found on belt sleeve 1st Tractor drive belt (RJ-35 with 6", 6-1/2", 7" jackshaft pulley) - WH 1556 nla {4Lx20" or 1/2" x 20"} - Found in manual 2nd Tractor drive belt (RJ-35 with 6" jackshaft pulley) ------WH 1566 nla {4Lx35" or 1/2" x 35"} Use with 1556 belt - Found on belt sleeve 2nd Tractor drive belt (RJ-35 with 6-1/2" jackshaft pulley) - WH 1553 nla {4L/Ax36" or 1/2" x 36"} Use with 1556 belt 2nd Tractor drive belt (RJ-35 with 7" jackshaft pulley) ------ WH 1552 nla {4Lx37" or 1/2" x 37"} Used with 1556 belt

We never go , we just circle around it and then take the topic by surprise when it least expects us to.

If we keep talking Techie engines @squonk will show up. He has a fondness for them. I agree you can buy a new carb for what they want for rebuild kit. I have had better luck with cheap carbs on tecumseh engines then I do with Kohlers.

I've actually used gear oil as a "penetration oil" because of that. If you have the time, it works pretty good as the oil doesn't evaporate, stays in place and it creeps well. Not fast

Wait... Whats the question...?

In an air filled tire, 8 to 10 lb. My fluid filled tires have zero air pressure.

That is the EXACT model we have - my son bought three. I have one, charges relatively fast - 4 hours or so, and holds a charge for a couple of months. Why so many?? He is an independent Locksmith and does a lot of programming of automotive modules and such. Programming can take almost an hour - requires a SOLID 12+ volts in the vehicle the entire time.....

My question. Where is it mostly used? If you need some thing to drag out far from electricity to jump start then I would go with a jump pack. If you just need to charge batteries, then I would get a charger with boost capabilities. These are handy for jump starting in remote locations. https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SL1639-Lithium-Portable-Starter/dp/B09Z3W6DZV?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

E-141, C-105 ready to go...

@D_Mac lots of ways to do this.. And lots of fluid choices. I found sugar adds weight without taking up much volume.

@squonk and @Pullstart both have good videos showing the procedure. Our first attempt here was made last year. Surprisingly easy. A little messy. Excellent results. You may want/need to add a weight like we did on Trina's 867. Easy bolt on using angle iron and a flat hunk of steel around 45 lbs. Also consider front chains. Interesting to me that folks can move at all without chains. I've tried it here and had NO movement possibilities. But .... Nearly Every surface here is tilted. I'll add a solid second vote for front tire filling. My bigger plow tractor with a 60" wide blade NEEDS all the gription I can get. I use well oversized 20 x 8 x 8 front turf tires with 5 gallons of Rimguard in each one. This year I'm considering trying full wrap chains for front steering. Likely a rough ride... Not sure if I'll keep em on. Like the extra stuff under the seat.

I fluid filled BOTH the front and rears on the 854, added wheel weights front and rear, and use 150 lbs of lead ingots under the seat. Use 2 link chains for maximum number of cross links. I have a choice of either a 42" or 48" moldboard - the smaller one is actually better in heavy snow.....

Lugnuts? 😂

B80 is a mid frame tractor for 1974 and 75. Long Frame 1976 and 77. ALL use a Long Frame plow. You'll love a B80 as a plow rig. I've used mine as such. (since sold it) Trina has several 8 HP tractors. Plenty of power there. What you'll need is weight. WEIGHT is TRACTION. I absolutely recommend fluid filled tires. For lights you have many options. I'd recommend LED. There are tons of styles that can added by drilling, clips, or magnets. 2" diameter to 4" or whatever. You go back a few years in the YouTube channels for both me n Trina. We each have many videos of us plowing.

Silly me. I should know that that trailer unloading is page 3 and tractor in the shop is page 4!

Nothing ... never had even fuzzy dice. Too much of a distraction when trying to run things over... Although we did once get into a buddies rig once and hung tampons off his.

Hanging from my rearview mirror you will find Old Glory and a Ty beanie baby lobster. The American flag is there because I love our country and the Ty lobster is one of the McDonalds Happy Meal toys being given away when Ty beanies were all the rage. My wife was sure that those giveaway toys were sooooo valuable that someone would break my window to get it. That was about twenty-five years and another truck ago and so far so good, hope no Ty thieves are going to read this post.

It was almost too big to get on my 5x8 utility trailer...haha. Wow, its no wonder everyone refers to these 5xi models as beasts. It seems like every bracket on it is 1/4" steel. Tires are a little dry rotted, seats a little cracked, needs a wash/buff, and it needs a general once over maintenance checkout, but I am very happy and so was the retired gentleman I purchased it from. More importantly, this all but guarantees that we won't get a heavy snow storm for the next decade.

I use these on all my batteries: Also have a Craftsman 50 amp for fast charge... 30 plus years old...

Wasn’t me Ed, Canada is a tad bit far for this guy to be driving for a Wheel Horse! Then again I did drive to damn near Indiana to get my LSE !!! Actually I could probably round up a small bus load of us that would like to take a road trip to check out @cleat’s beautiful collection of 520’s 👍🏻

I plow with my 875. Pushes enough snow for me. Before that I used an 857.

Good thing I got my 502 back on track before you guys went off on a tangent...