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'Bout the year you started the molasses project eh?

There's a thread here on the forum that you missed I just felt the earth tip on it's axis

Are you joining the slow race with EB and Pullstart, they are way ahead of you by 3 or 4 years.

Took the assembled axles to the lathe to make a groove for a snapring. Snapring installed. Made and welded the other end of the shaft and assembled it and the arm that will attach to the hydraulic valvebody. Next I'll attach both shafts with somekind of spacer inbetween and a mounting flange so that I can (un)bolt the entire assembly to the tractor as one unit. Hopefully I'll have the actuating bit done by the end of the week. We'll see..

Not original then... open game for a digital voltmeter then...

Been awhile since I posted something so I thought I'd update you. I installed (yet another) front PTO on a new tractor. This time the tractor is a Claas Arion 640 and the PTO unit is a 1000rpm Sauter brand. Install is fairly straightforward and the unit comes with a good but compact manual. This is my starting point, tractor with front 3-point but no PTO. In comes the shop crane to remove the front 3-point. Once this is removed a coupler/dampener gets installed on the front of the crankpulley. The driveshaft for the PTO gets connected to it. Note, just six M8 grade 10.9 (5/16" grade 8) bolts transfer the torque of the engine to the PTO unit. Dampener installed and one end of the driveshaft bolted to it. Other end which will connect to the PTO unit gets snaked under the radiator and in between the hydraulic lines of the front 3 point. Next the PTO unit can be bolted into place and connected to the driveshaft. After that the 3 point gets attached again. Five M16 (5/8") bolts on either side torqued to 290Nm (213 ft/lbs) keep the 3 point in place. Then some cable- and hose management needs to happen to keep everything from spinning itself to pieces. Couple of zipties make sure that doesn't happen. After installing a switch in the cab, plugging in an extra relais on the circuitboard, updating some software and plugging in the wiring harness we have a functioning front PTO.

Hhhmmm... Maybe them Wisconsin hoodlums @WHX?? and @Achto were lookin' to wrassle some Canadian 's, picked up @Pullstart on the way over the border, and the Constables got wind of it before they emptied your garage...

Sealling came out well. 96 Hr cure time tho... talk about watching paint dry! Grey spot is sealer coming out around the leak. Amigo tank came out nice too... I hope.... Back on and plumbed. There's enough sealer in the kit to do a five gallon tank or so they say. Since these little gys just take a small amount so instead of letting it go hard in the can work bench got the rest. Dad always said... waste not want not....

The frame on both is superseded to the same number. If it's just a frame swap should bolt right up. If using more you will have to campare the parts. The top section of the hood stand will have to change. Bottom section looks to be the same, you will have to check.

So.....I have an appt to go check out a 522xi on Thursday. Only has 229hrs on the clock and has only been used for snow blowing. No mower deck available, but the 2-stage snowblower is currently attached and included. I've seen the front axle pivot conversations, and its not really concerning to me to fix if I need to. Also read about pulling the motor/shrouds to make sure the screens are clear for proper airflow. Is there anything else any owners could point out that that I should get eyeballs on while I check it out? Had a nice conversation with the current owner tonight and it sounds like it just needs some general maintenance/TLC. I already have an agreeable asking price, just looking for any heads ups on things, as I'm assuming I will be bringing it home. If all goes well, the long term project goal for this one will be building a FEL for it.

Did it stop the work bench from leaking?

Well at least that puller does a really good job of breaking the hub. No half measures there.

"Measure with a ruler, mark it with chalk and cut it with a torch!

6 years of use and Tecumseh don't mix !

Update time. Between cold weather, updating the workshop, training for my upcoming chainsaw certification, gf's horse stuff and working I managed to work on my mini 1468 again. Been working on the levers for actuation of the hydraulic valvebody. I scrapped my original plan of having both handles on one axle and opted to make two seperate axles and stack them. Although this will give the levers a bit of a different throw I'm not bothered enough by that fact to change my mind a go with my original plan. Anyway.. Ordered some parts and turned a few bushings and a shaft. The parts I ordered are a pair of weld-on toothed axles and shift-pedals. Both ment for a Zündapp moped. This is how it's going to be assembled. Toothed ends got pushed in and welded into the longer shaft. Welded the bushings to a piece of tube to make a housing in which the shafts will rotate. Two part post because of difficulties with uploading more pictures at once.

Here's a nicely restored 502 but can't be certain it's 100% correct.

Dick @953 nut I'm not holding out I have just been too busy to get back on this project. I have been visiting my favorite sheet metal shop and getting drops for the project.

Sounds familiar. Back in the late 70's and early 80's, my FIL and I used to flip used cars at his garage - he did the mechanical work needed, I did the body work. My favorite tee shirt said "Cut it to length, beat it to fit, paint it to match" There was't hardly a 3 day Holiday weekend from May to September where I did not transform his repair business into a mini Earl Schribe paint shop... Miss those good times... and him more so. Bill

Thanks everyone yesterday was a good day!!!

A little back story on the Jeep before I go get it running. This is a friend of a friend’s vehicle. She had just paid it off, when the temperature issues began. First, a water pump was replaced. An o-ring was twisted upon install of a crossover tube, and it was leaking when I fixed the hose above and was able to pressure test the system. There were numerous check engine codes that had been cleared. Of course, that’ll fix it if the light is off the dash! The intake was majorly coked up from diesel soot. I found an intake valve not sealing and was able to use degreaser, elbow grease, brushes, and air to get it sealed. My best guess, a valve stem was full of enough build up to prevent the valve from seating. The coolant hose is a common issue, with the Jeep and Ram 3.0 V6 Ecodiesel turbo diesel platform. It is a 3” chunk of 3/8” ID rubber tubing positioned in the valley, away from any airflow, next to the hot turbo. Recipe for disaster. It’s a good 4-6 hour job to get to it. The fuel rail bolts pretty much need to be chiseled loose as the availability of a stubby torx bit that large is hard to come by. Most of the engine harness, all the turbo charge hoses, fuel lines, and more need to be removed to get the job done. By fractions of an inch of interference with the plastic intake manifold. So, here I am. This lady was quoted a minimum of $10,000 to fix this car. She was literally in tears when I told her that was uncalled for and I could likely fix it for $4,000 or less. She was adamant at paying me $6,200, what she had in savings and so much cheaper than other garages’ quotes. Her insurance company had it towed here. I’ve had it long enough and want to get it finished ASAP. Hopefully I drive it today!

Jay @JPWH, has this been pushed back in the corner or are you holding out on us?

I have not used the kits from I Save Tractors but I have not heard anything bad about them. The only issue that I have with his kits is that he does not offer them without a carburetor. Which is fine if you need one but don't wish to pay for something that I don't need. I have used the kits from this seller with good results. https://www.ebay.com/itm/121148624961?hash=item1c35055041:g:pK0AAOSw5c5koxLy&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0ApWxTgN%2FSnDCDPJZX3pL3eZKy8ZXK3AXKqyJcgQVWFN1p83pdw%2FR56ho0GsBJXCA0OgiRMADBxIan0BW6p7sQ8pvVgWPbSjj%2Bu7%2FAfCdjbeijsceYKlFVDbJ06rvgf1xM0KdEbalhdKkW52TNjFFkr3IX2GW%2B90txAKJoBylR9J4cnmyhcIvBofAHFbeY0q4o30ruiI6%2BamiiAgqst%2BTSp0hQpArU%2ForapjjskS8b0a9ljEPbRxDFpdjMFZOvv5pO8k%2BFbYrKUloqklqe40Za0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4Kqpq6MYw He also offers a kit with new valves if you need those. https://www.ebay.com/itm/380593616358?hash=item589d25b5e6:g:LUAAAOSw1ZZkoxzS&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Pq85va0EYBDlBvs0%2Bdl6452LcKJgUTNvaBkkF2aKFzCMQvlvh98P9VbUo1fdc0z%2BoAixs3dgPj6Q3SYMUScU3Z9CIFXqkokfs%2FMguG7EpjfUhpCeaVKZz4urLShu%2FqMfDUwcliopkuYLz3AnSCdWtKEO3F09i2GnE6QWT2Y4a3sGcMTEjUybPecIUza8pKyqQ71nsArWtXlHr7TdFguSxzqSa2oDVQ8zwXjR2LDknTyGa7JbRguD1MN4TNXXZuJWhHoV9u0sRs9szRGRrlLDkFQ3eg7D8SAZeyXmtq%2FUo3ipmILueU8q78cthgmvthkKw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4Kqpq6MYw

1045 clone number 2 is coming together

Even tho I am a recovering Catholic I felt the need to go to confession. Me: Bless me father for I have sinned. Father O'blivion: Now what have you done? Me: I drilled a hole in 60 year old metal. Father: You been hanging out with that @Achto character again ain't you. Me: Bless me father for I have sinned twice. Father: What did I tell you about him... he has no respect for original. Me: I know but it was just a PO hole I made bigger. Father: Did you vacuum up the shavings. Me: Yes father. Father: You are absolved of your sins. For your penace you shall bury said vacuum cleaner bag shavings in a plow field and make promise to rescue another horse. Amen. Guess I can live with that...geez I was just relocating a switch...

That weren't til '19 mister sir.

to the I am not familiar with either of these items. but anything is possible if you have the tools to weld and fabricate.

I thought the 502 was yank start. Here's diagrams for a 702 and 552.

LOW RIDER - Page 2 - Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum Page 2 of this build shows how I changed a C-141 to a solid mount.

Belt guard says 502? SN for files. Guessing it had a amp meter at one time? Switch now for bug eyes but moving to hood stand for a volt meter.

It’s beginning to look like a runner!

Ordered one from AZ. Most likely I will replace them this spring with new ones on each side.

Finished up “widening” another 1100 for a spare. Figured while I had the transmission on the stand, I would mock up my three point for Skittles. Have a little bit of welding to do.

I would ask I Save if you can get his kit if you don't need the carb. I get my kits off flea bay too but in any case make double sure you order the correct size piston/rod. My 1055 241 with fleabay parts came out well. One thing for sure is don't forget to shorten the dipper if you have a new rod.

Well this has gone somewhat off topic. The stainless steel remark originally was for blind pipe flanges used as weight. However, stainless bolts can roll up bits of metal into the nuts or threaded holes essentially welding them in place. This is the galling. Lubricant such as never seize or even oil or grease can reduce or stop this from happening.

Or a roll of electric fence wire.

5 Year Anniversary update on Scottie: 5 years ago today marks the day that God changed our family. Instead of burying this young man that day, God had other plans in store for him. God has shown me miracle after miracle with my own son and all the while God did this my faith and Scott’s faith grew deeper. Scott is currently attending his 2nd year of pre-seminary as he plans on becoming a Pastor. God is a miracle worker and he never fails! Scott is attending Concordia University in St. Paul, MN studying pre-seminary and then he will graduate after his four years there and move to Missouri and go there for 4 more years attending Seminary School.

All of my machines are set up this way. Makes wheel mounting so much easier. I use blue loctite so I can get the bolts out if required and have never had one move. I bought a bunch of open ended chrome lug nuts because I like the look. No extra thread out past the nut so I will be disqualified from the drag race track but for mowing grass it's perfect.

That is the way they taught us in the Navy, something to do with the excess of electrons on the battery negative side as I recall.

Not really Richard ... it leaked down below through drill holes. Woulda been a nicer job if I woulda belt sanded the 2xs first. Gotta find out with this stuff actually is. Some kind of urethane and woulda made for a nice durable bench top coating when done right.

Great to see, how he made his Way since. Never Give up Scott, Go for it ! i learned God just show you a Way but you must decide by yourself to go it. God is Allway‘s with us.

If you already have a frame, I would do the swap. And while doing the swap remove the engine cradle (even tho it has new solid engine mounts) and remount the engine with spacers.

The C should have the 90-1172 Sundstrand. The 417A should have the Eaton 1100.

That is why I like to use stainless fasteners for things like dash screws rear fender etc. that are not under real stress. Things like the brake drum, engine mounts etc. I use grade 5 or possibly 8. When I worked at the chemical plant we had a lot of stainless piping but the majority of the bolting was B7 (similar to grade 8) studs and nuts because stainless steel was not strong enough.

Spent the weekend roughing it in the cabin.