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All my tractors are workers so I do what is easy and cheap to keep them going. Rescued a 704 and wanting to get it running. Front rims were BAD shape and original replacements seem hard to come by so..... I do a lot of boat repairs with West System epoxies and fillers. One wheel had a hole a couple inches long where valve stem used to be and multiple pin holes. I had good luck with pin holes and JB Weld on my GT 14 so I used the West epoxy and fiberglass to patch the rim from the inside, then JB Weld to finish on the outside. I always use tubes in this configuration and have good luck with the results. Probably not what the purists would do but hey...sailor's got to do what a sailor's got to do! BEFORE; AFTER;

5 Year Anniversary update on Scottie: 5 years ago today marks the day that God changed our family. Instead of burying this young man that day, God had other plans in store for him. God has shown me miracle after miracle with my own son and all the while God did this my faith and Scott’s faith grew deeper. Scott is currently attending his 2nd year of pre-seminary as he plans on becoming a Pastor. God is a miracle worker and he never fails! Scott is attending Concordia University in St. Paul, MN studying pre-seminary and then he will graduate after his four years there and move to Missouri and go there for 4 more years attending Seminary School.

Tractor looks pretty darn good in the pics… I estimate it’ll take a 42 page thread to complete Anyone else wanna take a guess !

i installed the base cove vinyl flap deflector to a few 42 rd's i did some rehab on -- here are some photos of their attachment -- i use the carriage bolts head underneath so the rounded over head of bolts wont get damaged from debris discharged

One of the advantages of steel wheels is that they are easily modifiable with careful cutting and wielding. Move a valve stem? Piece of cake - drill a new hole and weld up the old one, or as others have suggested, leave the old valve stem. Need a different width? Easy - cut the drop well neatly and weld in new ring of steel for a wider ring, or remove a ring of steel off of one half to make a narrower wheel. Got a couple of same size wheels that are rusted through? Cut the rot of one wheel and a matching patch from another wheel. Access to a welder is necessary. Access to a lathe or band saw will make the job a whole lot easier. Since a garden tractor is a low speed machine, accuracy in one of these steel wheel modifications do not need to be very precise. Reasonably round and flanges parallel within 1/16" will be fine.

I guess just 2 Pages because Trina will do it. If Eric would i take a guess at 142 Pages...😎😂😂

First off some words of advise "Fit & finish before paint". I.E. make sure every thing fits correctly before painting. Best way to fix the over sized holes for the hood latch = Weld the holes shut, grind the metal flat, leave the hole area a little thicker on the inside than the metal for extra support, drill new 3/16" holes for the hood latch. The rod for the latch is 1/4" with the ends turned down to 3/16" so there is not a lot of contact area for the rod to seat against the sheet metal. Remedy without painting = Put a washer with 3/16" inside diameter (#10 washer) on the hood latch rod on the inside of the hood on both sides. The washer must not slide over the 1/4" diameter portion of the rod. This will help the rod pinch against the sheet metal when you put the nut on the outside. Not the best but should work. The hood latch should have rubber bushings on each side of the latch lever. These bushings only cushion the latch lever from moving side to side. Push retainers hold the rubber bushings in place. The steel wheels on the lever slip under the dash to hold the hood shut. Pics to show how the latch should look. To readjust the hood - Loosen the bolts that hold the hinge to the hood & try to slide the hood ahead a little bit on the hinge. If your good with a die grinder you can oval out the holes a bit to gain some movement. other wise @ebinmaine's advice on trying to push forward on the hood to tweak it should work. Also once the latch is on, the latch rod will force the hood to move forward as you close the hood. Think I covered a couple issues for you. Give me a shout out if you need more advise.

I may be all wet, but I believe the logic to have the valve on the inside to prevent accidental to it. I suppose if you did move it, use a 2 piece metal stem style with the O ring.... after welding and leak testing the repair ro close the original - OR - LEAVE it. Makes adding fluid easier.

My understanding of the reason that garden tractor rims have the valve stems on the inside is that some types of wheel weights don't have provision or notches in them for the stems. If you are going to use outside wheel weights and there's a place in the weights for the stem, I don't know why you couldn't move it. If you are using tubes, just remember to flip them around side to side so the angle of the stem coming out the wheel is correct.

The following probably falls into the garden tractor trivia catagory. In general terms, the steel wheels we use on our Horses are not a highly loaded item. The highest stressed area is probably the beadseat area, due to the inflation pressure in the tire. Operating loads, even on a heavily weighted machine, such as @ebinmaine runs, still are not very high. The low operating speeds mean that the dynamic loading is almost non-existent. This means that we can get away with using the type of repair @Sailman has described. Would I do that on a wheel to be used on a front end loader? NO. Would I try to repair a wheel with a huge hole in the beadseat this way? NO. Should I expect a repair like this to last forever? NO. Am I going to operate the repaired wheel on 'nice' terrain? OK. Will the repaired wheel be used on a machine that will not have many hours put on it? OK. Will the repaired wheel be used on a machine that will be operated by a youngster? That depends on the youngster. In my 40 year carreer as an engineer in the steel wheel industry, I've seen countless fatigue failures, some failures caused by overload, and a few impact failures. I've never seen a fatigue failure on a garden tractor wheel. Rust through and bending seem to be the common failure modes for garden reactor wheels. I will say that loose lug nuts will cause fatigue crack to originate in the bolt holes on any wheel, so keep an eye on your lug nut torque.

I say higher!!!!

T & E Wheelhorse Stables... AKA Trina and Eric... ... is making another attempt at spreading the appreciation affliction addiction. My father has had a box store riding mower that he bought used, for several years. It wasn't great when he got it. It's been getting less great the whole time. Knowing the understanding that Trina and I have of being able to repair machinery he's sought out our advice and opinions a few times. Knowing his mower was getting to a point of being financially not viable to repair I decided to keep an eye out for a Wheelhorse my parents could use. @PWL216 has treated us right twice now. Paul and his wife are good people. Thank you folks. He'd mentioned he was looking at swapping around/thinning his Herd so I said keep me posted on what HYDROS you have available. My father's old mower had the ability to change "gears" but really was a simplified transmission closer in usage to a hydro. Well a few weeks later after some gabbing and back n forth between me, Trina, my parents, and Paul ... He was nice enough to drop off this C121 project right at my parent's house. Trina and I have picked it up and brought it to Maine where we'll put it through our shop and get it back together for the spring mowing season. Now the introduction. I've created a new Supporter Membership for my father. His username is @Qball Given name is Bruce. He, and my mom, Karen, will be able to follow along with whatever TRINA gets done on this tractor. 😂 We all joke about her doing all the work but we all know you GOT to keep a Trina person busy. She absolutely loves working on these machines. I'll be helping with the grunt work of course and going through the wiring harness as usual. We'll work it in between other projects because it doesn't need to be back down to Massachusetts til maybe April. We have a LOT of things to do here between now n then as well.

Take good measurements before welding the holes shut so you know exactly where to drill the new holes.

3-4 years since my three lag bolt lift. Now I sleep 5-6 hours instead of 2-3. Much better solution than the Flowmax or the Roto-Rooter. Best wishes for good results Bob.

Did they use purple, yellow or clear primer? All the best Bob!

One of the (only) things I really dislike and find really annoying about wheel horse tractors, is the fact that the valve stem for the tires is on the inside of the rim. It would be so much easier not to have to crawl under the machine to put air in the tires. Just curious if anybody has ever welded up the valve stem hole and drilled out a new one on the outside of the rim. Is there any reason that it couldn’t or shouldn’t be done? I’m working on a C105 at the moment and I’m considering doing that.

Agreeing with both @ebinmaine and @ri702bill. I wouldn’t bother welding up the old hole, either, I’d just leave (or add) a tubeless valve stem to fill it.

The Aluminium bar stock i ordered finally arrived so i made these spacers today , the idea and dimensions i found here on the forum , but i cant find it again to thank whoever origionally posted them . Im now hoping for some dry weather and daylight to get out and start fittiing !

I was thinking the same. It could use a good detail job. Leaves on the intake, it’s been sitting a bit. I’d imagine there should be an o-ring sealing that surface, that could have been held in place with a couple dabs or some grease instead of a whole tube. I did also read something about open element filters vs stock filters in the Whipple manual when I was thumbing through looking for oil change info. tires. I bet we have some spare 6 bolt wheels around here somewhere for a smoke show!

103991 is a 6-terminal switch with a ground terminal for magneto ignition 103990 is a 5-terminal for battery ignition

Urolift. Sounds like a ride service in Europe. But no... I've been having issues in the "plumbing" department over the last couple years, so I finally decided to have a Urolift. I'm not going to describe it, but you can Google it. I'm back home and feeling okay other than I feel like I'm peeing hot lead. . Hopefully in 24 hours it will subside. Until then...

Excellent, nice work!

There's a few ways to reduce that diggemmup. The knob for height adjustment as stated. Get shoes for the plow. (think ATV) Watch a few videos of Trina and I moving snow. Note that we have the plow tilted forward more than most. This creates less digging tendencies and also helps roll the snow off to the sides.

You Boyz are underestimating the Bear. 🐻 A. I'm a fair amount larger than some and my reach is further away. (Trina rarely uses a grinder) B. I'd been planning on using one wheel with two grinders. That way the work position is out where it would be more comfortable as you're thinking. Far as the bench grinder on a bench.... Well yes... But we can't MOVE a bench like a pedestal stand. The plan in this shop is to keep as much equipment and shelving mobile as possible.

👌

Sounds good I'll just bite the bullet and do the permanent fix by welding it

So after some quick sipheren, looks like after 17 votes the rear discharges are hand's down the favorites with the 36" coming in first. FYI, this is before the Electoral College decides . 48sd - 3 42sd -1 42rd - 5.5 36rd -7.5 36sd - 0

Never heard of it but sounds like something I want!!!

I have to agree with Don, unless you cantilever the grinder towards you you’re going to stub your toes. And @Pullstart definitely can’t use it with flip-flops on😂 I’ve seen smaller rims filled with cement. Personally my bench grinder is well, on my bench!

Not long ago, it looked like this. Then I did a ‘spruce up’ on the tins and motor, and then added a loader. I overloaded it, it tipped over on its side when the load shifted (I dove off that thing like I was Michael Phelps), and damaged the front axle flange and had a minor fire - which I was able to quickly put out, but a few wires got toasted. I moved the FEL to a 520H with gear reduction steering. Big difference. I’m really happy that Eric and Trina have it now and will bring it back to its former beauty. It was a sweet a** tractor until ‘the incident’ 😉

Oh, that‘s quite an awesome story behind the Wheelhorse on the Trailer Eric. Btw: Did you Tell your Dad that Wheelhorses tend to Herd? 😂😂😂 @Qball also from the Other Site of the Big Pond.

I found the right on on a-z for 5 bucks

Probably should keep that arm handy.

I think that is a very good repair. My only "+1" addition would be to ask if the epoxy will stick to something that inhibits rust like red oxide primer or some other dry inhibitor? Either way, that should be a years-long fix!

He sent me pics of the haul, I think that was my first question @WHX?? calls those beach balls

Just noting that the direct-to-rockshaft solid link is most practical on non-hydro tractors since the operator can easily adjust their “armstrong” force when the weight of the plow isn’t enough to do the job. Not so easy with hydro tractors. Only a few hydro WHs have “float” built into in their lift control (GT14, C-195, D’s, and Xi’s?) that would let a direct-to-rockshaft solid linked plow move up and down freely to follow the grade. The rest would, using the slotted hole in the plow frame lift tab and with careful feathering of the lift control, permit the blade only a very small amount of float. For a hydro where extra “scraping” is needed, I’d suggest short-linking to the chain-lifted lower arm and adding weight to the plow.

The steering arms are in front of the tires. If it’s in 4x4 the steering arms are known to buckle under all the launch pressure of the tire driving forward and pivoting towards a toe-in condition on the ball joints. It’s USUALLY a performance diesel thing, but the front ends are all the same general design. If you imagine a straw under compression, it’ll eventually buckle and kink towards the middle. Same deal going on here.

Add “custom bird nests” to your list of offerings?

All of my machines are set up this way. Makes wheel mounting so much easier. I use blue loctite so I can get the bolts out if required and have never had one move. I bought a bunch of open ended chrome lug nuts because I like the look. No extra thread out past the nut so I will be disqualified from the drag race track but for mowing grass it's perfect.

May wanna look into the excessive red rtv sealing the supercharger to the intake. Should just need an application proper gasket. Ive done a few supercharger installations. Also definitely be sure that open element air filter is a quality K&N. Seen plenty of open element air filter/intake systems not filter correctly or bypass taking out MAF or other items. Most of all have fun with it! Gonna be buying lots of rear tires!

Beat me to it! Love my Scag. It gets along fine with my Wheel Horses, and saves wear and tear on them as well!

I wouldn’t brag about a green and yellow either! I’m proud of my SCAG and glad to have it. Remember what Mrs. P. Said back in the day… “You go get a new zero turn mower (to keep my big front lawn mowed) and you can have as many Wheel Horses as you want!”

Hmm... cinching up the lap belt and adjusting the sunglasses at the stoplight might be a warning......!!

Well then post it in other brands then... got the same thing in a green yellow thingy but ya don't hear me bragging... Actually Kev the C-145 B hood you got me with the 36 RD is the cats meow for me. Got a new set of blades for it and cuts well. I have three 36 RDs that i am trying to find spindles and blades for. That said the 70s 36"s are my flavors if a guy can find spindles & blades for them and finger out all the substitutions. Absolute ultimate is a 48 on a 520. All time fav is the 855 you got that is going to @rj35hunter. That was like mowing on a piece of history.

You ain't wrong

That’s true enough!

Thanks Eric and Trina

I called it was only $30 bucks so I bought it

If you would like to send Scott a graduation card please feel free to send it to him by clicking on the link below for our address. For Scott's address please click here God has blessed our family with your love and support through your prayers and thoughts during the past three years. Thank you for showing Scott your love and support!