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I just recently acquired a 314-8 from a guy that we have a mutual friend that knew I love wheel horse. My friend was visiting him and he said your buddy Darryl is a wheel horse nut right, give him a call if he wants it he can have everything I just want it gone I need the room. Suite case weights and bracket Two stage blower Plastic weights and chains Nice deck No info on the tractor but looks clean and well taken care of. I haven't had the time too do anything with it yet, hope to soon .

@Desko after you get those tires mounted up on your 520, I have a plow for you

Yup, that's a LOT of money for a bent piece of steel, a bolt with a nut and a piece of DOM tube to roll it. Clearly I'm in the wrong business! I'd be glad to make'm WH red for anyone and sell them for $148.99. Or, pull the Amazon chinese cheap krap move and sell ya BBQ spatula with a pencil to roll it for $99.50 Plus shipping!

This 2023 archery buck was taken this year near East Berlin, Pa. Just 20 mile from the Big Show. He was just scored and is 3/8" short of the state record.

Ha Ha. I hope this blade looks good enough. It's been used so not quite as nice now but still should work OK.

That explains why I'm broke

I will be heading to Ohio this weekend to take some RJ transmissions to Keith Jones. Going to get an RJ transmission rebuilt by Keith and Larry Eads to go on an RJ my brother David bought from Rodney Burger in 2018 on the was back from the LeSeur , Minnesota sale in April. This thing has been sitting in our starve shed for five years. Yesterday I worked outside for three hours removing parts and pieces to get the transmission off the frame. I had not really looked at this thing much so was surprised when I started work to find the steel channel welded to the bottom of the two side panels on the 3 piece transmission. Now I have seen cracked center cases and rewelded ones but never anything like this one. My thought is this must have been done after a redo to protect the underside from damage. No real damage seen by so who knows. No cable on the hitch. Hitch moves but channel extends beyond the hitch. The hub removals were the easiest parts. Well greased axles and my three tooth pulley remover was like slicing through butter! The worst job was the roll pin. Removing from the idler/clutch arm. Broke a 1/8 punch and sprayed several times with PB Blaster. Finally got enough roll pin down inside the hole to use my regular roll pin punches which removed it. The welds are interesting as there are three two to two and a half inch ones on each side. I am sure they will have to be cut out with an angle grinder. The bolts in the side plates can be removed but the plates will not allow access due to brake shaft and drive shaft on the other side. Removed the idler pulley and brake band after removing the clutch rod. I did not remove the drive pulley as the pulley had an oversized bolt rather than a set screw holding the drive pulley on the woodruff key on the drive shaft. The other discovery during yesterday’s work was the RJ had Wards Riverside rear tires . I have recollection from a show several years ago guys love this tire tread and pay premium price for these tires. I am hauling this one to Keith and Larry with channel plate still on it. I think we still have good gears in it and hopefully the case can be saved. I do have others they can use however in the rebuild I hope to put on this RJ. Anyway I thought this would be a post some would want to see!

Installed clutch idler pulley, safety switch, and belt. Took many trips to the store exchanging belts until I found the one that fit best although not perfect. Ended up with a B83. Installed right side foot rest and lower belt guide.

2018 first day at camp.

Na The deal breaker is no powder coat!

Hi everyone, Ive had my 1964 model 854 for 12 years! (bought it from a fellow RS member in 2011) I love it! still un-restored and in original condition. I made a webpage with a small bit of info about it back in 2011, but then Google sites forced an update that killed my original page. The page was then down for a few years.. Well, I decieded to revive it! and this time I updated it and made it mostly about the Model 854 in general, and not so much about my own tractor specifically.. Check it out and let me know what you think! https://sites.google.com/view/1964-wheelhorse-model-854/1964-wheel-horse-model-854 thanks, Scot

Having been on the upper end of several of those, it is just amazing the ability it gives you to move a machine weighing several tons precisely - if you can get the tongue under it. Leverage factor of about 40 to 1 - probably used to make the Pyramids!

EB just has Trina to put the tire on.

Just a small JOHNSON BAR. they have been around longer than I have and that's a looooooooooooooooong time!

I disconnected the front headlights and removed the back bulbs and had continuity from the switch to ground with the switch being turned off. So I definitely have a short to ground somewhere. I taped a spot from before that runs over the steering but it might be the wire going to the rear lights, I have looked there at all honestly

I found 80 pound picture frame cable works great for replacement. Many strands and flexible to go around the crank handle.

I have seen fuses blow instantly and some not blow until you exceed the rating by about 5 amps. My best guess is: A you have a wire in the circuit that has a tiny nick in it and it's a small short to ground slightly elevating the amp draw. Or B a bad bulb. You really need a DC Ammeter connected to the circuit itself and measure the amp draw on each bulb individually. If the amps are the same and equal and draw 4 amps apiece the problem is in the wiring or the rear lights. The wire to the rear is known to get chafed on just about every tractor so check that wire where it passes thru panels. If the wire is in a plastic split loom check it good because I have seen the loom itself cut thru wires.

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2021/10/24/buyers-guide-how-to-pick-the-best-flexible-fuel-hose-for-your-vehicle/ might consider this in your fuel hose , re do . a fuel hose is only a part of the set up , also do a related clean up and out , of any related fuel setting area , like 2 fuel filters on mine , 1 close to tank , other close to carb , also have a fuel check valve close to carb , to verify standing fuel close to carb , fast starts . other variations that also work , make a problem go away , this should be interesting , oily Pete

its a 86 i looked at the tag closely and i can tell the last digit is a 1 so the 801 would make sense, making it a 1986 with a kohler k series, 14 hp. And from what i can tell, it seems that other 1986 414 tractors came with a black k series engine, not red. So im going to guess, but looking at the rest of the tractor that the engine in there is original, not a replacement I plowed some snow with it last night, man those gear drives will push anything. They are not as nice to use as a hydro unit, but they get so much more power to the wheels.

I have had one of these for years. Great device as you can move the tire up and down and rotate it to line up the Studs and wheel holes.

If the collar is a separate part and not part of the bearing inner race it is a eccentric lock that requires it to be turned in the direction of operation before the screws are tightened. This ensures the shaft cannot turn inside the bearing inner race.

Son got a doe! He's excited for steaks and jerky!

I picked up my processed venison from the butcher shop and got it organized and stored in the freezer. 35 lb of sweet bologna 10 lb of dried chipped venison Added to the 32 lb of ground meat and 27 lb of roasts, steak and back strap that I processed. Not bad, over 100 lb of meat from that one deer. Not sure I can use another one, but there is always the food bank.

Might have to up the HP a little bit on the onan to push it!

Well PT Barnum is proved right again. The link Joe posted said they are sold out!. Way too easy to make for even 59 bucks. I'd recess some roller bearings to move it and a much better handle.

I was blown away by the gift, I tried getting him to take some $ or advertise it but he said he'd never get around to get it going. He just needed the space it was taking up. Even though I don't need any more projects myself it was hard to pass on.

Ha Ha - I get it !!

It’s all finished up. Very very happy with it!

You can't fix stupid....

Some things i have found. Try bypassing the switch. Those will go internally bad from time to time. I have gotten some fuses that were knock off and they would blow way below the rating. Should actually check the wiring for resistance to ground.

So 2 of them will draw about 8.5 amps.

What is the halogen bulb number you have? Standard bulbs are 35 watt so about 3 amps each.

As @squonk will confirm, it MAY very well be a problem with a bulb itself. Ten seconds is way too long for a fuse to go with a wiring direct to ground short.

Tombstone headed across the pond!

@WHX?? I second the Lowe's attempt. I had a no hassle exchange with a 1/2" ratchet. Bought it broken at a flea market for $3. Exchanged at Lowes for brand new one. Gotta love places that truly honor a lifetime warranty.

Ave deer weight in Pa. Mature buck 150 -300 The antler restrictions now pretty much assure all bucks are at least 3 year olds. Mature doe 100-200 I don't have a scale to weigh a hanging deer, but I do weigh all the boned meat. Interesting chart Deer Weight Chart (pa.gov)

@AHS notice different types of bearings , end seal , if you are luckey enough , to have rubber side shields , great opportunity to do a clean out and RE GREASE , hi temp / stress Lucas grease . bearing failure is due to generic lubricant / cost at make up time . eliminated all my bearing failures , with new bearings , and lucas 550 degree green grease . just a suggestion if your bearing is not metal sealed , would also get a specific drive chain lubricant , lots of blower related improvements , makes them spin with ease . Pete

A trophy for a youngster is a doe, spike or anything.

I was thinkin about it for a minute there but the freight cost is too much.

i used my dads plastics repair kit

I’ve had some success fixing them with an inexpensive ($20) Harbor Freight plastic welder. Trying to glue them with epoxy or silicone has not lasted for me.

Pry bar has always served me just fine

A collection if custom ordered grandkid stuff!

So I made a battery terminal due it missing it and found out the wiring, got the ignition switch off and now I'm gonna try to fix a big crack in the gas tank

Thanks for not posting a link I scavenged the one pic shown:

Nope. My steel toed boot works better and I already paid for it...

uh oh maybe he shouldve kept the flip phone

The first M-Series single cylinder Kohler was used in 1987.