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First of all, THANK YOU SO MUCH DON! This man took the time out of his day to send me a Caterpillar 12 book and spent time on the phone with me chatting away one evening. It seems to me that the friendliest people are in collector groups.. seriously, I can't think of any tractor, truck, car or garden tractor show I attended that anyone was intolerable. Everyone eager to help in some way to make it enjoyable. I now have something that was recently gifted to me and will be needing help with ( hint hint C-Series-Don). Lmao 🤣. I was given a C125 that is new. New meaning that it was used for an hour and parked. This has mowed for an hour and parked in a shed since 1982. After digging in the shed moving vending machines, I finally found it. I'm actually in shock that it's real and was told to take it. What do I do with it? Sure it would be sweet to use again but I don't want to scratch it all over. Motor turns freely, tires need air, seat is nicer than my Super Duty. Not a scratch on the deck and has the grass chute. What should I do with this tractor? Parade use? Mowing? Do I even bother with trying to make it run or leave it alone? All input is welcome!

Get it running and use it! It’s not a “never been started NOS machine” so I would clean it up and put a few hours on it each year. Sitting doesn’t do these things any good. Congrats on the awesome score

Just wanted to poke my head in and say hello from western md . i just acquired a 1990 312-8 believe it has 700 hrs from my older neighbor lady came with deck ,bagger. And also a tiller which is mainly what I was wanting but will use it to cut grass also. i liked to tinker with things had a few old cubs and an 67 allis charmers with a tiller so moved it along to be able to perchase this one. im sure I will be asking some questions as I get into tinkering I do need to find a brinley adapter as that is all my attachments use. so far changed all fluids new battery and tubed the tires headlights coming this week one wouldn’t work. will get a few photos after I get her all cleaned up and waxed scott

A tractor that doesn't run is nothing but a dust collector that takes up space. I suggest get it running, then decide what to do with it. Use it, show tractor, parade tractor, most of all enjoy it. AWESOME SCORE BTW!!

Shafts for clutch and brake pedals were left as bare steel so the pedals would slide on. I punched a 3/4" hole in some heavy paper and slid on to the shaft. Shafts were cleaned and primed. After drying overnight I put a coat of red paint on.

From what I have gathered from the USA and Netherlands it's apparent that a Wheel Horse is definitely not a Koi pond, fountain, or a statue! I WILL give it a complete service front to back and occasionally mow and open area minus the low hanging branches and other scratchy obstacles. Probably not a wise idea to power wash the 30+ years of dust since damaging the decals, safety stickers and who knows what else would be blown away. I have found recently that using Rotella 30 has the vitamins and dinosaurs flat tappet engines like. Once I actually get the beast outside, more pictures are going to be taken. My only hope is that I can fit on this one!

I'll be happy to help you with your dilemma... I will pay you twice what you paid... I agree with @ebinmaine and @Sparky and @Achto... run it!!! Seriously, nice tractor!!! Love the Black Hoods!!!

Clean, grease, change the oil and get every drop of gas out of it. Don't forget to clean the carburetor, flush out the fuel tank with fresh gas and put in a new fuel filter. After that have lots of fun!

If it's a front tire and you have a vise I open the vice up as far as it goes insert tire one side of the jaw on the rim and one on the tire and break the bead that way

Yep, I agree with everyone above. If you have (or can make) room for it, then run it at least a couple hours a year.

Great score and I agree with the gentlemen above me; run it! Maybe don't run it like you stole it (which you kinda did considering what you paid ) but run it for sure! Greetings from the Netherlands, Mark

Made a couple "Tundra Bunnys". Watched my neighbor spread some roadapples. Always reminding me of Jay. Rest easy my friend.

First of all. AWESOME. What to do with a machine that was originally BUILT TO WORK? 🤔 🤔 Well I personally wouldn't let it set again.

Making a little headway on rat rod Suburban. Transmission bolted to frame. Still gotta get engine placement correct.

Should be enough to buy 2-3 rollers.

I'm thinking that most of the time the toe out is caused by wear and the non adjustable tie rods. When I got my 76 B-160 back it was a bear to steer. Part of the problem was that one of the tie rods was installed incorrectly. Another was severe toe out. Nothing is mentioned about any alignment adjustment most likely because the rods weren't adjustable. I made new rods and ser the alignment to slightly tor in. It was a dramatic improvment. My 05 Classic has adjustable rods. The owners manual specifically states 1/8"-1/4" toe in.

Patina matching & going through a k91 for a 1956 Rj-35 .

Way to many directions to go here for a simple answer. First. IMHO. Don't. That's a classic garden tractor that's absolutely among the best of the models for a great worker. It's over 50 years old and not being made anymore. That said ... It's your tractor to do with as you like. Nothing is impossible. But it would be a major project. The transmission of a Wheelhorse is an integral part of the structure of the whole machine. If you really want a Wheelhorse that goes fast... Find one with a manual transmission and do a proper pulley swap with a custom built belt guard/guide. And rebuild the steering system because these are meant to go 6.5 MPH. Not 20. And the brakes.... Because increasing the speed increases the need for appropriate stopping power. It's a can of worms to open. Not to discourage you but it's important to know ALL of what you're up against.

I dabble in taxidermy. Some of the creatures I make from deer and elk feet.

For the relatively few times I’ve needed this service, I’ve taken the tire to the tire shop and let them put it on their machine. If I needed it often, I’d give a close look to the HF machine!

Few things come to my mind reading this. First, temperature is a big factor. Not only your paint/spray(can) has to have the right temperature but also the workpiece you're painting aswell as the room you're painting in. Second the quality of paint varies a lot between the diy-store and the specialized paint shop. At least overhere where I live (Netherlands, Europe). Whenever I want to (spray)paint something which HAS to turn out great I go straight to the paint shop. Less critical parts I paint with the DIY stuff no problem but when it matters I'll take the pro stuff everytime. The difference is exactly what you described, paint goes on thicker, is less runny and/or sticks better to the surface, the shine is much deeper and the color is bright as can be. As an example here's a picture of the wheels on my Murray to IH 1468 project. The grey is just DIY store paint but the IH red was mixed and 'bottled' by my local paint shop. Certainly worth the five extra bucks per can in my book.

I have a manual tire changer to break the bead. Sometimes standing on the tire will pop the bead. If its a front tire a large C-clamp or wood bar clamp could be used,

Sometimes you can break the bead by driving up on the edge of the tire beside the rim with a heavy vehicle. If you're not trying to save the tire a sawzall is your friend. If you are trying to save the tire a manual tire changer from HF will be your friend.

I've had a couple machines set up just right, very little play, toe in good, tie rods good and still seem to steer a little wonky. Most noticeable on the asphalt driveway at higher speeds. I put on new tires and all was good. I do know if you toe in too much they drive like a teenager walking in very tight shoes. I like to set them to the 1/8 side in toe. Just cutting grass at slow speeds it makes little difference, I make a lot of turns. If I had long areas, vast flats or meadows it would probably be more noticeable.

n the LEFT side the tractor, there s/b a spring-loaded ;ock/release mechanism.... shown here by the little BLACK BUTTON. Push that button in with thumb and HOLD it while pushing locking lever forward. When you get the round implement mounting bar in the slot---BOTH sides----push that lever back and it will LOCK IN... Be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the FORK (#2) engages the HITCH ROD #5.

If the transaxle is sluggish there could be some weak or broken springs on your acceleration valves or a pump that needs to be rebuilt. If you are wanting to hot rod it then larger diameter tires are all that is needed. One thing to keep in mind while seeking a solution to your need for speed is the potential damage you could do to the transaxle. The Sundstrand transaxle has no brakes other than the transmission so the faster you go the more internal stresses are put on internal parts when stopping.

@kpinnc agree with you on a of number of steering details , have HEIM JOINTS on my rod ends , for years , also have them on related linkage points , clutch rod , brake connection , easy to DIE NUT a round rod for connection threading . also washer up the front wheels , for a firmer , wheel track , prevents " side to side shucking " . want to stop " wheelies ? entire clutch lever / rod set up , lubrication detailing , make the rust run out , pete

You can probably find a good used brinley adapter by placing a wanted ad in our free classified section; https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/wanted/ or you could contact Lowell https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/hitches/ for a new one.

Welcome Scotty, on this forum you will find the nicest, most knowledgeable people you can imagine. If you have a question, someone here has the answer! And it will be done in a respectful manner, not with a snide response. Mean people don’t last here!! As far as your hitch goes, check out our vendors section and I believe you will find one. Good luck with your new Wheel Horse, sounds like you are already on the right track! One more thing WE LOVE PICTURES!

Make sure you cook any turkey completely and don't use a microwave oven or this may happen!

That is the way to go when the originals wear out Eric. Easy to install.

May I suggest, keeping all your posts on this new machine in one thread? It’ll help paint the whole picture when we’re working to help you get to the ultimate goal - putting around with a grin on your face! With that said, the guys above are spot on. Not much you can do to over drive a hydro, but to see the limitations of these machines, check @Skipper’s big hydro thread out!

Found the makins' for a nice adjustable set. Nice to have a home shop Parts Department.

Got installed runs great bring on the snow

Last ( free ) one I restored pulled the fuel line on the supply side of the pump used a new piece fuel hose into a can of fresh gas get it running to see what I had - any tractor I pick up is getting a tank cleaning - new shut off and grommet - new fuel hose and filter - always a good idea to bypass the old fuel system first so you're not pulling any crud into the pump carb and combustion chamber .

Front fender bracket ready to install. Front fender bracket loosely installed. A rear fender sat on to align bolt holes for proper front fender bracket placement. Front fender bracket installed and tightened into final position.

This is the breaker I've used. The instructions say not to use an impact on it, don't ask me how I know they were right..

Many spray can paints will readily chip. There's little to no hardener in them. Best you can do when spraying that is a coat so light it doesn't even fully cover. Sort of a mist... Multiple times. It's a PITA but often the only way.

Ok I use that krylon in IH red. Let me know what u think. Me personally... I'm looking to upgrade. Looks great. Chips very easily. Maybe I did it wrong. Runs like a river. Goes on very wet and thin. But that paint job you did on this 🤌. Love the transmission trick will have to use that on my next one. Thanks for the info!

I think I posted this on the turkey day thread. Not much but not seeing much in the nort woods. My cousin passed on this one as were seeing nice ones on camera but all nocturnal. Cindy is hunting hard but yet to even see a doe. Deer population is definitely down to to last year's severe winter. Some tracking dust at night but day sun melts it.

The paint on the frame is made by Excel. I am almost out of that and can't get it any more so I bought some Krylon. The hood and fender will be painted with the Specialty Coatings paint. I get these at Peavey mart (who bought out Tractor Supply here in Canada). Colour is International red.

@ebinmaine have a good turkey day ? am often amazed , at related horse issues that are not addressed until , total failure . regularly look over everything to see how its working / holding up . often find a connection ,of any kind that could use an improvement , of function . then change it , thank you , for being you , pete

Does anyone here use a rubber scraper on their snow plow. I have used one for a few years now and I really like how is cleans my concrete driveway, wears great and does not tear up the grass along the edge like a steel scraper blade. It also works great plowing a walking path on grass to my toy shed. The rubber scraper is made from recycled conveyor belt, keeping it out of the landfill. The only down side is the rubber is 1" thick and snow does accumulate along the top edge. https://chalmersinnovations.com

This is a very nice work! What type of paint and color name did you use for this red? Looks very good!

When I build the Heim joints I go to a 7/16" double male ends. The 3/8" holes in the tractor are normally wallowed out a little oblong and the next step up to 7/16" requires just enough drilling to round out the holes. Another advantage is the 7/16" parts are a LOT stronger than the 3/8". I buy the Heim joints and jam nuts from McMaster Carr. You may be able to find center pieces as small swage tubes. If you have access to a metal lathe you could use the old tie rods as blanks to be cut and male threaded for use with female Heim joints.

Maybe a 1968 or 69 Model unknown. Likely a Raider or Charger.

Every tractor I've seen from 74 and up seems to have some tow out. I hadn't given the "hit something and bent one" much thought, and assumed it was made with a little that got worse with wear. But I agree- heim joints or some adjustability is a must. That along with proper tire pressure sure makes for easier steering.