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Happy to have such a big family, kids and nieces and nephews! Two twin boys were welcomed into the family last weekend, Leighton is a big sister yet again! Tomorrow we are volunteering at the local homeless shelter, serving food all day. Happy Thanksgiving to all my tractor buddies!

I finally had an appointment with a Neurologist yesterday. I had hoped he may have a treatment plan that would take away the numbness on my left side but no such luck. He confirmed what I already knew was ailing me but didn't have any magic up his sleeve. PT has been going well and and I am doing a lot more "normal" activities which lightens the load for my wife. She has been great throughout my recovery and now that I'm able to do more she can have cataract surgery that has been put off for several months. I appreciate the support and prayers from all of you.

I may have forgotten to update...

Filled tires, wheel weights, rear weights, and me in the seat = near a 1000 pounds on the rear tires.

A needle gun will get the rust and old paint off better and faster than anything I've ever used. Reasonably inexpensive tool, gets into those tight spots and easy to use.

I agree with both of Rob's comments - i"ll eleborate a bit..... The BEST place to add weight in the rear is in and on the wheels, not hanging it on the frame or Unidrive. Why?// - because I'm the guy that gets to prematurely open the Unidrive up to change worn out axles, bearings, and seals. My C81 has fluid filled tires (30 lbs each), 2 link chains (20 lbs each) ans two castiron weights (a 75 pounder and a 20 - 95 pounds each.) I have added close to 300 pounds for traction - NONE of it in the "wrong" place. You need to be SURE you can stop with the added weight and the weight of a plow or snowblower. Inspect the brake drum, lining, and seal An oily brake is just asking for trouble.

Last week I mowed this 2 1/2 acres with my C-120/180-8 speed and my 520-H. I was out yesterday grinding up leaf's with C-120/180. Everything has been dry here for about two months, At least half of the leaf's just turned to dust and blew away. I was trying to get rid of most of the leaf's before it rained today.

Nice B-100, I'm twelve and own 2 wheel horses so far. keep that B-100 and make it a running worker again

Build an e tank. It's CHEEP! and not labor intensive! All you need is half of a plastic 55 gal drum or garbage can, a scrap of steel and a battery charger.

@gwest_ca @ebinmaine @23 Reo totally agree with the fuel additive , running in a used engine , want to add KROIL , to that fuel , talk about a crud cutter ! often use a separate gallon of fuel , on a used engine . fast idle , look / listen , good time for a hot oil flush , add , RISLONE , zinc , about 4 oz. , for 2 qts oil , drop carb bowl , etc. . very good base line service , obviousely other issues , but its , really made changes to engines that I have picked up , pete

Probably start with 2 oz. per tank for a couple of tanks full then 1/2 oz. per tank.

Try a shot of Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel. It will lubricate the valve stems and help to ensure the valves move as fast as required. Have had the same results using 2-stroke oil.

You're welcome to send that carb up to me and I'll rebuild it for you

I give my scrap metal to a small time scrapper. He collects truck and trailer loads and sells it down in Chelsea Ma. I like supporting him because I can get rid of my metal. It is getting very hard to get rid of anything in the Peoples Republic of Eastern Massachusetts.

I know just about everyone has challenges, and it's no surprise that sometimes it is difficult to feel thankful. But I think just about anyone can find things to be thankful for. First thing that comes to mind for me, is being in this great country. Yeah, there's plenty to complain about here if you want to, but just think what it would be like to be in Gaza or Israel right now, or many other parts of the world that are suffering. In our house, we reflect on a few things we are grateful for every evening around the dinner table. Tomorrow is an extra special day for that. I hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving with people you love.

IMHO and with all due respect to those who use it... I believe PB Blaster is only worth anything because of excellent marketing. I've never been a fan. Multiple products have been shown over and over to be superior.

Back on all fours. Engine turns over!! Needs minor finishing up and hood put on. Hopefully add gas and drive it around!!

i have used scaler, various grinders, some hand sanding, etc but very best decision for any wheel with more than minor rust is definately sand blast -- looking at your photos of rusty rims i would certainly send them to blaster --- i use professional blaster -- it costs some cash but considering the long term use and benefit the sand blasting is best decison for labor time, the mess, return on $$ investment, etc

Arthritis in my right hip went crazy this past spring. i am truly blessed to have excellent health insurance. My out of pocket cost for the surgery was $10 for the co-pay.

Bob a question, is the seat switch disabled. With the seat switch in the circuit it will start and shut off when the brake is disengaged if the seat switch is faulty look at the center of the drawing the switches feed the k1 kill relay.

I've had great luck with Kroil for loosening bolts. I still have PB Blaster but Kroil works better in my opinion.

Feeling a bit better today so I ventured out to the shop for a bit. Rear lift tube and clamp ready to install. Fender bracket assembly and lift tube installed. Dipstick and tube ready to install. Dipstick and tube installed. I used this thread sealant on the two bolts for the lift tube clamp and also for the dipstick tube. Trying to keep as much water as possible out of this transmission. Overview as of today.

Sandblasting is definately the best option. If that's not in the budget a angle grinder with (various) wire wheels will work pretty good. As a primer I can highly recommend a zinc-spray, which can be (spray-) painted over with Hammerite. Also treating the inside of the wheel in the same way ensures the best long time result. Most wheels tend to rust from the inside out because of condensation buildup, especially when using tubes.

The tool is also known as a needle scaler - works great on rims. Requires a lot of air and learning the proper angle / force technique.

my suggestion will not make major difference but does have a benefit -- rust on the plow blade causes friction -- snow sticks to it as well as does not peel off very well when blade on angle -- Therefore I have cleaned rust from my plow blades and painted them to create smoother surface reducing friction from rusty surface then of course i coat surface - either a spray like WD40 - or cooking pam etc -- or use car wax -- Good luck !

Just in case you have not found them yet 2 pages of info on the model 1-0141 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=1-0141&quick=1&type=downloads_file

Hope my response lives up to your expectations! Your hub needs to be held in place with a SET-SCREW, not a bolt. A set-screw is hardened steel and has a cupped end to grip the axie and the axle key. Here is a picture of a set-screw in case you don't know what one looks like. The axle seals can be replaced without taking the transmission apart. First you need to check the axle bearings to be sure they are in good condition. Jack up one side of the rear axle and see if the axle will move up/down or front/back. If there is any movement in either direction you need more than just seals. The seals can be purchased at NAPA or any good industrial supply house. Fore a 1" axle you will need a SKF-9815 seal; for a 1 1/8" axle the seal would be SKF 11050. While you are there get a couple new keys for the axles, chances are they need to be replaced also. Prior to installing the new seal be sure to smooth down any roughness on the axle to prevent damaging the new seal.

one thing about ice if possible best to pre-treat with salt or calcium. the sloped driveway is in the back ground of the tractor. It is 9 degrees and 200' to the crest. I only use it to get up to my shop. but it has proven problematic for the handful of folks living up in the flats. Has been a proving ground over the last 39 winters for trying different things. I will have to share. my neighbor bought a new kubota bx 4x4 with R4 tires. He tried to plow and had trouble making it to the top without plowing. I ran up it with the 2 wheel drive loader with atv tires and he was not happy. of course it is mostly the driver. lol

Fantastic news! Thanks for the info and your service to our country!!

Slow down a bit here. You need answers ASAP and there are tons of folks waiting to help. Read the responses and re-read your post (I like to read it out loud to hear how it sounds) to give us the tools needed for the help you need.

They're not ALL set up like that. You have the lighter duty Tab style hitch. I've had 200 to 300 lbs on my Tab hitch while pulling loads here. The axle tubes are 2" square or larger. The lower rear attachment point is a 3/4" bore for a cross pin. That's not enough meat?? I have a home shop made hitch modeled after several others here on Redsquare including Lowell's. I've personally had well over 500 lbs ON THE HITCH pulling a load of firewood or gravel that weighed at least 1200 to 1500 lbs total based on cu ft. Given the proper apparatus I'd say a Wheelhorse does quite well.

Nice 66 Coronet also

About twice a year I take a small load of scrap, usually some steel, aluminum and copper. At the farm I have several trailer loads I need to clean up one of these days. In Texas the first time you sell scrap you have to have an ID like a drivers license. You get your picture taken and receive a Texas Recyclers License. The scrap yards will not buy from you without one. Everything you sell (steel, copper, aluminum, etc, is recorded under this license by weight . This helps them track illegal sales, mainly of copper and aluminum.

i just junked a shell of a car. the shell weighed about 1500 pounds. the junkyard gave me $62. luckily the junkyard is only about 3 miles from me. usually when i have something small i place it on the tree belt in front of my house and the scrappers grab it quick. sometimes even before i can walk back to my garage!

I am in CT and scrap every week. 5 cents a pound for what you have but if they do not know you you better have a ton if you want money. Otherwise they will take it for free. A mower deck maybe around $2

I am a cheap skate and have taken some really bad shape rims used a needle scaler and die grinder with steel brush to clean 'em up. Even used JB weld to fill pin holes then prime and paint inside and out. Add tubes and they are good to go.

I send mine out to be blasted and powder coated. I pay around $100 for 4 wheels.

Sorry to hear you didn't have better news from your neurologist, but I'm glad to hear that you're able to do more. Keep it up! Richard

If and I do mean IF we get any significant snow, it's usually early spring stuff. I've had one white Christmas in my 53 years. A couple more near misses. Last year was pretty cold for us, with several single digit nights. Not unusual to have them, but last year we had quite a few by comparison.

I agree with @squonk. The tool is easy to build and will serve years of rust restoration!

whats a few thousand miles of atlantic between friends? Stormin is probably looking over us having a laugh!

Agreed. I've seen a few "new" switches that at least appear to work with either type ignition, and they will make you burn stuff up if you try to use the factory plug.

On an older switch at least, that ground strap is a dead giveaway to what type ignition it is intended for. The older coil ignition type won't have a ground. You guys are really moving on this resto!

Front weight.

Hope you can make this out. The shiny part is a screw stud that has a wire blade style that the ground wire goes to. I wouldn't think you would necessarily have to use the stud for a ground, I would think any ground would work. I put an M8 on an older Charger and run the ground wire to a nut/bolt on the tractor and it works.

Thank you. In the process of installing all new painless wiring in it. Hopefully back on the road come spring.

Yes on the hub - its wet drifted on axle and now rubbing the trans case - all the small stones/dirt that accumulate between hub and trans case with act like a grinder can ruin the bore . I rebuilt one ground and chipped out ....took another trans half case for seals to work