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This is my racing wheel horse it does 20mph and has predator 224 with stage 1 kit

Last week I mowed this 2 1/2 acres with my C-120/180-8 speed and my 520-H. I was out yesterday grinding up leaf's with C-120/180. Everything has been dry here for about two months, At least half of the leaf's just turned to dust and blew away. I was trying to get rid of most of the leaf's before it rained today.

Whoever invented zip ties should get a Nobel Prize. Right up there with cordless drills as far as I'm concerned.

Brake band lining reattachment procedures completed. Clean de-rust sand etc whatever. We ran it in the electrolysis tank for a bit. We each took a turn or two scraping and sanding. Then I used acetone to clean up the metal AND the lining surface so the clear silicone would adhere better. Ignore the amount of zip ties. I didn't need quite that many. I was just seeing if they'd set better at different angles. Yes.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/ I’d say, if you don’t like where the money goes on eBay, please consider using some funds from selling stuff here to support the forum. You can enjoy the benefits of unlimited picture sharing and know that you’re doing your part to keep the lights on at this incredible website. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/

If your parents are interested in gaining a bit of mechanical and electrical knowledge and want to get involved with you we can make this happen. This could be a great family bonding opportunity and we will be happy to furnish information and tips. The tools needed to work on a Wheel Horse are common wrenches and will not be a big expense. We are always glad to have new members and will walk along side you as your Wheel Horse adventure takes shape. None of us were born knowing anything, we all have learned from others and are glad to help you.

I'm also ready for winter. Snowblower on the C105 & plow on the 654. Got my 2stage Toro if the snow gets really deep

Harvested the leaves one last time Sunday then switched over to winter mode. Need to find some wheel weights. Let it snow ❄️

Spent some time this afternoon swapping things around from the outdoor storage portable garage, left side shed roof, and the interior of the barn workshop. One of the things we moved is this 312-8 chassis. It's a low hours machine (261, 281??). I have the rest of the parts of course. Trina and I are thinking seriously about using this frame to (re-)build the Wally Digger Backhoe FEL from the ground up. Already intended for Wally Digger: The transmission will be rebuilt and fuel tank swapped out. So the hoe will come off. The front axle and steering is being replaced. We have a 520H swept forward axle to install. Also the gear reduction steering setup. I'm changing the fluid in the FEL so that'll be empty already. So we figured... We're already gonna be a LOT of the way there. MOST of the way really. Why not just start fresh and move the rest... (engine and Front End Loader??) from one chassis to another.

We have 1.5 inches of rain forecast for tomorrow, so Today was a good day to get the winter lime on the garden and lawn. I used the 417 and could see a marked increase in the traction since I added those cheap Craftsman wheel weights.

Check for a loose carb throttle shaft. With the engine off turn the throttle to about 3/8 or 1/2. See if there's a wiggle in the clearance from shaft to body. Very common. Usually repairable with Hillman washers and the correct removal method. I use a Dremel to grind the backs of the screws off.

thank you

Installed and prepped the snow equipment!

Dragged out another RJ project today. All but 10yrs since it last saw daylight. Actually made it up onto my lift too. Anticipate making more progress over the winter.

Today I had the 416 out for the continuation of the leaf harvest!

Hello, I am a 9 year old kid (with my mom's help and permission) looking for some information and advice. My neighbor gifted me a Wheel Horse B-100 tractor and plow to try to fix up or sell. I have loved tractors since I could remember. Unfortunately, my parents don't know much about them, and aren't overly good at fixing things. I am trying to decide if I should try to fix this one up or sell it whole or for parts? Eventually, I am hoping to have a lawncare/snow plowing business in a couple years when I'm old enough to not scare the neighbors. I am also hoping to buy a dirt bike some day. Can you give me an idea of how much my tractor is worth? Or how much it might take to fix it up? Thanks!

You're welcome to send that carb up to me and I'll rebuild it for you

I keep these part numbers in my notes. Carb copper washers: MMC # 5906K561 Or Hillman 58087

Last year I made Mrs. P. some candle holders for her birthday. Tonight, we sit in the candle light with no power. It’s a good peaceful feeling in the silence of darkness in the living room.

Today I went to Amish country southeast of South Bend, IN to get my annual beef butcher order. I decided on the way back to stop and take some pics of the old WH factory since it was only 1/10 mile out of my way. They looked like they were working today so I just took some shots from across the street. Enjoy!

I'd hate to see what would happen if you were a cop taking me into custody and zip-tying my wrists!

We already discussed this… Who’s on first!

EverStart Lawn and Garden Lead Acid Battery, Group Size U1P 12 Volt, 275 CCA - Walmart.com This is what I use. Be aware the battery post go to the front of the tractor and the positive(red) and negative (black) post can be found on either side. Buy the post arrangement that best fits your cable location. From your picture, It appears the red cable is on the right side. Correction on the post location. The post on my 3,4,and 500 series go to the front. It may not matter on a B-100.

Walmart has the exact battery its the standard lawnmower battery its about 46 bucks

thank you! do you have a idea of what battery i would need?

Plus on a hydro you can slower even than with the 8 speed, now you guys are making me rethink my whole plan… are these parts hard to sell? I don’t even have a way to sell them.. I used to use eBay back in the day, but they charge so much now I doubt I would even break even.

@JCM I can measure the one on my 417 tonight, but I have to agree with @wallfish that the belt should be the same. I think I used the belt mine came with but it’s been a long time and I can’t remember! I think you have my number so please text or call me to remind me to check it out late this afternoon, I’ll gladly help if I can.

Hmmm. I changed mine from a 418 C to a 520 HC and it's the same belt. The belt is easier to take off than it is to put on because that spring has quite a bit of tension. But those belt tension pulleys do have a lot room to move so even a shorter belt should still fit on there. I find it easier to get the belt started in the PTO pulley groove and spin the pulley while pulling on the belt with the other hand. You could measure the distance from the front mount Tach A Matic to the PTO on both of your tractors. Put a bar or threaded rod in the Tach A Matic and measure from the bar to the PTO. I'm guessing they are the same or close to the same but never had a 418A tractor.

CJT like said above keep it for for now get running well just enjoy it and make a little $$ with it that way you save up for a dirt bike. Or keep it and ride it on nice days. Enjoy the ride.

Thats a suspension system and slides for moving somewhat back and forth adjustment. Any 300/400/500 series should have the flip up plate, and making that seat assembly bolt up to that plate shouldn't be difficult.

That is either a 1974 or 1975 C-160 Auto. Given that, ---nearly 50 yr old--- its almost a gimme that the hydro will need some work. Still one of the best Wheelhorse ever made.... I have two of them. The Sundstrand Auto is model 90-1140... and easy one to rebuild. I've rebuilt/overhauled a dozen or more of them....easy to do. If it was MY tractor (wishful thinking), the first thing I would do is rebuild it...the jyd PUMP and hyd MOTOR. Here is a self-made .pdf file for guidance....narrative and pics. SUNDSTRAND Piston-Piston PUMP & MOTOR Refurb.pdf

I say keep both machines. Blow snow with the hydro, till with the manual!

Hello @CJTractorKid, Nice to have you aboard. I would advise seeking help from a grown up for their guidance, experience, and safety reasons. What you have there is not a toy, although it can and will provide loads of fun. Start with the basics. Fresh fuel, do you have spark ? If you get it running, notice how it runs-does it idle smooth, and take the gas when you push up on the throttle ? Just keep coming to us for help. You will learn a lot and in no time you will be plowing and mowing. I’ll be following along… to !!!

Is the front axle inverted? If so, how are you holding the spindles in the axle? At 20mph, I hope you are using more than the stock spring clip.

Been working on busting a driveway into our 20 acres of woods in Ky. over a couple of trips in the last month. Here are the current tools I've rented: The before picture looking from the road into the property: I started working with the dirt movers last Friday. Here is where I ended up today: I'm about 250 feet into the woods. Got another 350 to 400 feet to go. Prior to this adventure, I have had maybe two hours on skid steer/front end loaders and this is my first try at a back hoe type machine. The goal for this trip was to get through the lumpiest section in terms of cut and fill. Most of the rest of the way will require leveling up the road bed on side hill. The back hoe is actually more fun than the skid steer.

Keep it....learn how to work on it and maintain it. There is plenty of info out there and friendly people here to walk you through issues if you are willing to get learn. Not only will you have an excellent piece of equipment that will serve you as long as you want it to, but learning how to work on it will teach you lessons that will last your entire life. I got my 314-8 when I was in my mid 20's......I just needed something to mow my grass, and it fell in my lap for $300. I had no idea what it was capable of at the time. I'm now 44 and use it for all sorts of things.....mowing, plowing, winching, wood chipping, etc. I wouldn't sell it for 3x times what I paid for it.

I must say Kollin for a 14 year old kid that was well said! I started mowing and plowing with my own Wheel Horse when I was 14 and saved enough money to buy a pickup truck with a plow just before I turned 16. Nothing fancy but it did the job. @CJTractorKid That B-100 is a great year round tractor, like everyone else has said, you should keep it. On this forum there are some of the nicest people you could meet online. Everyone is friendly and will help you with whatever you need. With just basic tools we can help you get your tractor running and get you on your way to your lawn business as you get a little older. I started my lawn business with my dad’s Wheel Horse when I was 12. He didn’t want me to wear his out so he made me get my own! I’ll also say that the first time you plow snow with it you’ll want to plow the entire neighborhood! There was/is a community basketball court in the neighborhood where I grew up. I used to go plow it just for fun even though I knew nobody was playing basketball in the winter! Good luck with it, please keep it, I promise it will make you happy!!

You will soon find out that this little Wheelhorse will be the bestest gift.... These tractors are very easy to work on, giving you lotsa good hands-on experience in fixing things. Few kids today take interest in such things...and I congratulate you. Secondly, you've found the bestest website for help and direction on bringing this little guy back to life.

I would add a little more to what has been said already. I absolutely agree that a 701 warrants using a slot hitch, or even a clevis hitch. A 3-point is overkill. Secondly, a 3-point hitch is extremely limited on a small and light tractor. Combine this with a lack of hydraulic lift, and you are even more limited. There is also the lack of implements in CAT-0 sizes. I've had to fabricate all that I use with my Bronco 14. While I certainly love my 3-point, it is nearly too much strain on such a small machine. I absolutely would not build another one. It is very complex and time consuming- not to mention expensive. The hitch can lift more than the tractor can manage in most cases, even with an extra 100+lbs of weight up front. A slot hitch or even a clevis will couple your 701 with plenty of implements that more closely match the tractor's capabilties. Not to mention your ability to raise them with a manual lift. I assure you it will not dissapoint.

CJ! I tell this to people often, but consider the truth to it: That tractor is worth much more in your barn, than in your pocket. If you use it as a tool, it could provide years of solid input in your activities daily. If you sell it, you may never reap the benefits of such a simple and easy to maintain machine. For small needs that it may require, our help and input is free. We’d be glad to help get it revived into a worker again.

I run those same weights only I painted mine. No need to spend a lot on weight.

to the CJ and CJs Mom. So nice to see someone your age interested in these tractors. That is a very nice looking B-100. It appears to have been taken care of by the previous owner. The 42" side discharge deck looks good and the tractor has the sleeve hitch and cast iron wheel weights. All add value to the outfit. Not knowing the condition of the engine, it is very difficult to answer your question as to how much it will cost to get it running. These little tractors with the 10 HP engine and 8 speed transmissions are almost bullet proof and it normally only requires a new battery $50 and a good cleaning of the entire fuel delivery system to get them running. With more info and specific questions, there are many members on the forum that will be very pleased to help you with your project.

I could, but... math? 45 degrees??? How many toes and fingers I need for that? I actually did think of that concept for a second, but figured a couple inch overhang will do the trick and doesn't involve additional cutting or any more fingers...

Owned since new, 22 years now…replaced one deck spindle that failed in all that time. Absolutely NO complaints about this rig! Just finished the final leaf pickup for 2023…

I'd be happy to help if I can. Just PM me for my address. If those parts are more than a year or two old and you are still using ethanol gasoline they probably aren't much good anymore. I've been seeing some serious short-term damage on the square cut gasket for the bowl, along with the interior baffle.

The garden area is added soil. Our plan is to use the Single Ripper Tooth to break into the ground and catch the rocks roots etc. Then use the tiller to stir it up and mix in manure, fertilizer.

Being the current owner of a 1977 B-100, and having owned a 1976 B-100 like yours, I can tell you that they are the best looking tractor of Wheel Horse's entire fleet (I am biased though). If after you put a battery in it, air up the tires, and see how it runs, I would value the B-100 alone at around $500.00. I sold one two years ago for $400.00 with a snow plow, a dead battery, and a lot of rust. Yours with a snow plow, mowing deck, cast iron wheel weights, and what looks like good paint is worth every bit of $950.00 to $1100.00 to the right buyer. BUT...and this is a big but, I would not sell it just to be able to buy a 4-wheeler. I have two grandsons who have gone through two mini bikes, two four-wheelers, and currently two go-carts. But their Wheel Horse tractor will still be around working long after the "toys" are gone.

If you have the slot hitch on the back, you can purchase or make one of these. This will allow you to use a Brinly plow or most other Brinly attachments. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/toro-wheel-horse-slot-hitch-adapter/ A picture of the slot hitch and draw bar hitch on my 701. A cable connects the slot hitch to the rock shaft to allow you to raise & lower it. If you do not have a slot hitch you can purchase one of these and the cable in order to use Brinly attachments. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/toro-wheel-horse-brinly-clevis-hitch-sleeve-hitch-with-adjustment-plate-and-pin/ Cable from the rock shaft to the hitch. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/3931-wheel-horse-reproduction-lift-cable/ Brinly plow new. You can usually find these for around $150 used. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Brinly-Hardy-10-in-Sleeve-Hitch-Tow-Behind-Moldboard-Plow-PP-51BH/100609655?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D28I-028_034_RIDERS-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PMAX_SHP&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D28I-028_034_RIDERS-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PMAX_SHP-71700000113833184--&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIifLRwqTTggMVkMjICh1dKg1jEAQYAyABEgKpzvD_BwE You could also search for a Wheel Horse plow, this would hook directly to the Wheel Horse slot hitch.

Eric, I don't have a GT-1600 but the fuel lines on the 310 and the 418 both leave the tank and run over the transmission, through the tunnel between the operator's legs and come out to the left of the engine. When replacing fuel lines I just taped the new hose to the old hose and pulled it through with no problem.