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Justin got some AGs tonight. I sure would love to stick this plow in the dirt some day! Unique tractor, crazy custom rear lift, what’s not to love?

Just thought I would share these. Found these in my pile of manuals. Kind of cool. I also have some original Delco manuals from the mid 50`s to the 60`s. Nice to have. Also found a section when Kohler made Snowmobile engines. They where into every thing at one time. OOh on the blue tap on left did see what manufacturers was first on the list. That is right you guess it.

I forget who, but someone posted a statement something like this at one time. "There is no greater bond than that of a mother & child. Other than two 5 gallon pails stuck together"

Hydraulic fluid is what's in there now. I bought 5 gal bucket from TSC. Since I had a choice for what to fill it with, I went with an oil designed exactly for the purpose of hydraulic systems. Why would you want to change it to something else? https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-premium-tractor-hydraulic-fluid-5-gal-t806391

Make it kinda legal, here is my engine puller.

Filler neck modeled!

I know, this probaqbly doesn't belong on this forum, but I have to share this simple solution to a common problem. How to get a 5-gallon plastic buck unstuck from a stack of them.... air pressure is the answer: BUCKET STUCK .AVI

Justin (CASE) got some AG tires and set screws snugged up on the hubs tonight.

I saw something similar done once with those big green pals the garbage men used to use, mostly landscapers use now. We couldn’t get them apart, they were brand new and we were fighting to separate them when a guy walked up, stuck a garden hose in between them. He turned the water on full blast, said “thank me later “ and walked away. About two minutes later, with the water acting like hydraulic fluid in a cylinder, POP they were apart! It’s just one of those things I’ll never forget!

Hi everyone I'm new here, I've just brought myself a little wheel horse C161 after more than a year looking at them. I've always been and still am a fan of the Honda atc's. But onto a new challenge now and excited it's my little Wheel horse. Hoping someone out there may be able to help me with where I can find/buy a workshop manual and where to find/buy my parts new and used? Look forward to any info and help I may be able to get from you (hopefully without driving you all mad in the process)

Hi all, first my introduction and then my question. I used to colllect these old tractors about 20 years ago. I had several c series hydros, suburban a few RJs and a couple of square hoods. Anyhow, I’m back into it mildly, a friend offered me. A C-series 8 spd for free a week or so ago, it was free so I jumped on it. After 15 years of sitting in a barn not being tan I got it running, it seems to run good and engine has been rebuilt. I need the entire headlight system, This tractor also has the two peice seat but the vinyl is in bad shape. Does anyone remake these seats like this anymore? If so can someone put me in contact with them? Also where is a good source for general I parts for these old tractors, I had a good freind who was a Wheelhorse fanatic, but sadly he passed a few weeks ago. Thanks for any help in advance.

Got to give that unidrive credit, on loaded 24x12x12 lugs and 225lbs of operator, it clawed its way through

Hopefully I'm done with fuel leaks on C105! Replaced entire fuel line, filter, tank shut off, fuel pump, & carb. Seems like everything was leaking 🙄 Pretty sure it was all original

Just thought I would share these. Found these in my pile of manuals. Kind of cool. I also have some original Delco manuals from the mid 50`s to the 60`s. Nice to have. Also found a section when Kohler made Snowmobile engines. They where into every thing at one time. OOh on the blue tap on left did see what manufacturers was first on the list. That is right you guess it.

Lift assembly ready to install. Lift assembly installed. I ran into a glitch where the rockshaft hit the steering gear. It then dawned on me that with reduction steering a shorter rockshaft is required. Luckily I had one although not in as good shape as the one I was going to use but it will work. Installed the rest of the Dial-A-Hite.

You can use a variety of fluids for a simple hydraulic system like your FEL...Issue I would be concerned with is mixing disparate types. VW vs Mercon vs Dexron no problem Different weight oils also no issue

Start by removing the two pins that hold the hoop around the PTO side of the engine. Remove hoop. This will allow you to remove the belt. To remove the pulleys at the mid-mount tach-a-matic push in shaft with the black button and move the lever below it forward. This should allow pulleys to fall down. Next disconnect the lift chain. Remove tiller by lifting up on the rear axle locks, lift the right side first then the left. If you do the opposite your hand may be pinched between the axle and the pulley (ask me how I know!) Then lift the left side of the tiller up and it should fall. I hope this helps! Someone else may have a better explanation? That’s the best I could do without physically being there! As with all Wheel Horse attachments, once you know how to do it it’s very simple. That’s just one more great thing about these tractors.

I believe as long as it follows the rules and stays positive in nature most everything belongs here on Redsquare. Excellent share!!

Saw a Tom cat festoon my buddies parked Jeep windshield once... I know what they are. I just think it's a silly name.

I think you already nailed it. I have some tires with air and fluid both with tubes and no tubes the same. It’s a matter of preference. My nice tires with no tubes and good wheels I am 100% confident in. Something 20+ years old? I’m not so confident they won’t need a tube.

If the tires are really in bad dried out shape inflating the tube may cause a sidewall blow out. But that said i usually try a 20 dollar tube before a 70-80 tire... but as mentioned inflate it an let it sit for a few days first

Could be a mouse nest in the muffler, is the exhaust good and strong while turning over?

Yes, 2 completely separate hydraulic systems with 2 pumps. I did it that way so the hoe would be complete and easily transferred if it went on to another tractor

And that there folks attests to the true Wheel Horse quality.......

Presuming you have the 'Double D' spindle assembly, the bearing (#103119) MUST be driven out from the blade side of the spindle. There is a right and wrong way to do this. DO NOT 'hammer in the new bearing---but PRESS it in with force on the outer rim of the 103119 bearing...NOT THE SHAFT!.

Ive been waiting for the block to window out for almost 2 years...in March i had about 18yds of asphalt millings delivered and i had that M12 at 100% governor turning 3600/3700 rpms for a few hours off and on...figured the trans or engine would break, but neither did.

IDK. It was 10-30 . If you were just maybe topping it off then probably not a big deal. If you're draining it and changing it then I would go with the hydraulic oil.

Thanks guys I’ll check these guys out. Meanwhile I did find a parts tractor near me.. so I’ll be looking at that if it’s still available, my plan is to put a snowblower on this old wheel horse and put it back into service. The deck shell is good, but all three of the mandrels are froze. So I doubt I mow with it for now.

Wheel horse parts and more, A to Z tractor, redo your horse, and isavetractors have been good sources. eBay too. They’ll have most of what you need. I’ll be watching to see if someone has a recommendation on the seat. Good luck with the tractor. This is the friendliest internet community around.

I have been known to run tractor/trans fluid in my snow plow systems, atf, or strictly hydraulic oil. After close to 20 years of service, I haven’t found any pump failures. I do say I like some ATF mainly for the red dye to spot any leaks in the snow before they are catastrophic.

Well OK then I guess Flywheel key wouldn't have much to do with it on that engine even if it was sheared. Have you tried shooting some carb cleaner directly into it? Skip the entire fuel delivery system to eliminate anything there, or find out if it is suspect Was the plug wet after trying to start it? The finger over the plug hole is a quick test and it should blast air past the finger seal pretty easily. ACR does work with the exhaust valve so popping through the exhaust could be a clue. Watch that valve since you're pulling the head off.

Turn it over, paint the handle red for the flag.

Agreed. Like fuel on an airplane, you can rarely have too much.

The only advantage to me is being able to mount the tire myself instead of paying someone else. I've had several tires I couldn't get the bead to seat without using tubes so I just started putting tubes in all of em. The tubes cost about the same as the installation fee and I don't have to spend the time traveling.

One small add on, if your tiller has a assist lift spring. i would recommend setting the tiller down on a 4x4 block placed under the tiller gear case before undoing the attachments to the rear axle mount. It will make the spring much easier to remove.

26 degrees F this morning. The butt hole neighbor set a big ole pile ablaze at 6:30 am, just before light. I had deer walking under me, but I call 911 in concern of it being his house. My uncle says he was tossing accelerants on the fire. It looked like the sun coming up in the wrong direction. No deer during daylight yet, but it’s a beautiful day! I even recorded a shooting star while trying to capture the blaze. My morning coffee view and the real sunrise:

Reversing the installation instructions should work. May not be the exact models you have but procedures will be the same.

I questioned this method as well. When rebuilding my truck engine, I came upon some things that made me do so research. The connecting rods in my Dodge 4.7L are made with this process. They are machined, then the end that connects to the crankshaft is scored and broken apart. The broken mating edges create a perfect seal when bolted together that is resistant to movement. Smooth mating surfaces on a connecting rod can sometimes have slight movement due to heat, cool, vibration, etc. This causes the surfaces to wear causing loose bolts, oblong bearing hole, etc.

Festoon is one of those words we just need to use more often. Lights on a vehicle, including tractors, is something you can NOT have too many of.

True. I just miss pushing up on the stopper, it was so practical

Many Hondas and clone engines still have them.

Thank you, thank you, thank you for helping me with my new tractor. This forum is awesome and it’s so successful because of all the members who take the time to be share their knowledge. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

And for about (or less than) the cost of a rebuild kit you can use an electric pump...

Belt fits this a way!

I wondered about that too as I never saw any like it in any C160 pics in the gallery. Hood swap? Paint looks exact.

Wire harness getting ready for install. This is a simple harness modeled after the 520HC with only a low oil pressure light. Also the voltage regulator on the engine is wired directly to the start solenoid again as per 520HC 9 Pin is a somewhat sealed unit that I have on all of my 520's Fuse holders are sealed as well. The purple wire is for the clutch switch. I will finish that once everything is installed to get the proper length and take-off point. This is the 520HC wire diagram that this machine will more or less have. HC wire diagram.pdf

Not that I know of. Fake chickens got a ride on the 60 Suburban yard art tractor. Had to get them the heck off so I could clean the cedar leafs, spider webs and gypsy moth cocoons off so I could start mounting Christmas lights.

Understand about FB = stupid. You might get a better audience on eBay. It would be over 400 miles for me, so Bidenomics makes it hard even at a good price. This is the wrong forum for negotiation, so about the original problem - a sheared flywheel key might result in having spark but not at the right time to make it run.

Nobody does... calm down and eat more bacon...