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I’ve been using an e tank to clean up various metal parts for a while. Latest is wheels from a 1267 that were pretty nasty. What you’d expect from a set of rims over 50 years old. Check out the buildup on the anodes. The wheel has had some wire brushing (manual) after it came out of the tank where it ‘cooked’ for a few days. wish I had taken pictures before.

New belts and a bearing on a 63 ish square gear drive deck. It was yellow at some point in it's life!

The 1” spindles were only in the swept axles. The pivot has included a provision for thrust bearings whereas standard axles are just sleeved on top of welded washers! I had help from @ri702bill to trim our 312’s axle to accommodate spindle thrust washers. Big help. Only standard on later (1990s ?) 520-HC and 520-H, though many members have swapped them onto 300s and 400s! Edit: Should note that the swept axle has slightly different steering geometry so it needs different tie rods (from the factory they had different end joints with zerks and were adjustable) as well as different spindles. Not sure about the lower steering shaft but there were reduction and non-reduction versions of the swept axle models (different lengths, for sure). The spindle holders were a lot beefier, as well. @ebinmaine has a thread for converting ¾” spindles on a “C" to take trailer hubs/wheels.

Front brake rod ready to install. Pedal end with nylon washer, stainless washer, and cotter pin. Bellcrank end with stainless washer and hairpin clip Rod installed onto bellcrank. Brake pedal ready to install. Brake pedal installed.

I found this in some literature that I received from a guy that sold me his fathers 1990 Wheel Horse. I am sure others have seen them on machines. This is loose and never installed. Figure this is when people did maintenance and not checking their phones. The pressure / filtered engine oil machines recommend 50 hours on the oil and the splash stuff 25 hours. WH part #115398

I’ve got the same setup as @AlexR but on my 502, since 2013-15 or so with the tri-ribs and 2017 or so on the 23x10.50-12s. Other than running small, they are perfect to me! The fronts are tubed and fluid filled. They are starting to look like they could afford a recharge. I haven’t put anything air or fluid in them since filling. The rears are air filled still and have never needed anything.

Wow! Just over an hour and I got so many replies. The suggestion of button heads drove me to McMaster. I decided to go with the knurled neck carriage bolts. Look the same when installed and round holes. One box will cover all my blades. Thank You so much.

A wear bar is a usable commodity so I don't spend any more time on mine than I have to. I just drill holes and use button head allen bolts to hold it on. No special tools required. https://www.amazon.com/Button-Socket-Screws-Finish-Machine/dp/B08YTXK1TP/ref=asc_df_B08YTXK1TP/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=658845552652&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11327232653109552112&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1028137&hvtargid=pla-2065033038150&mcid=dc4c00d069a631198f72be978431e762&th=1

More info for you. The Onan P220G test out with a maximum torque of 32lbft at 2400RPMs and 20hp at 3600RPMs The Hatz 1D81 tests out at 36.3Nm (26.5lbft) max at 2000RPMs and 10.1kw (13.54hp) max at 3000RPMs

I upgraded my '89 520-H last year with the forward swept axle system. The original axles on the '89 520-H are 3/4" like all the other 300 and 400 series.

Up grading a Hatz is not as easy as you think. They are a complicated engine and very expensive on the initial cost to buy. The Hatz 1B40 in Radpferd has around a $2500 price tag new. As far as 14hp diesel compared to 20hp gas - Horse power is horse power, it's all measured using the same instruments. Torque is the big difference between gas & diesel. You will not notice any hp difference driving the tractor around other than the diesel will recover a bit faster on take off. If you are running a large implement like a 60" deck, the 14hp diesel will definitely get it spinning but might fall off in heavy grass when compared to the 20hp gas. When it comes right down to it, about 12hp is all you will ever get to the ground on a garden tractor. Yes you can weight it down, put bigger tires on, etc to try to get more to the ground, this usually comes at a cost of breaking things. Something has to and will give eventually, if not traction then a part. One thing that you would gain with the diesel is fuel economy. The Hatz will probably run twice as long on a gallon of fuel than the Onan will.

Comparing a 14 diesel to a 20 gas.. it's not exactly equal. Particularly because those Onans are known for having gobs of torque on their own. I'm not sure you'd find a difference and it may even be lower on the diesel. My other train of thought is this. If you have an Onan 20 horse it can only be on a 520. If it's hydraulic you're not going to see any difference at all so there's no point doing the change. If it's a 520 - 8, I wouldn't be messing around with a tractor that RARE just to do an engine swap unless something about the Onan was blown.

As goofy as that sounds, 100% correct. I'll add that it doesn't take much effort either. Follow it up with a little chrome polish and they will look really nice and keep them from rusting again.

Thats me...I don't check my phone.....I do maitenance !

The Cat is fixing that fuel gauge issue!

Thanks for all the advice. I wasn't familiar with aerosol grease (just WD40 but sure it must be different). I ended up getting replacements rods from Lowell at Wheelhorse Parts And More. and they worked great not to mention at a great price. Let's hope they last another 30 years.

Used the 312H to push some blow downs around to where I could cut firewood.

All of these posts and no one has mentioned bailing wire (For country dwellers) or zip ties (for Suburbanites)

Once again, I want to thank Trina, @ebinmaine’s wife for her work to put together another 12 months of Wheel Horse Calendar. The effort is greatly appreciated by all of us here on RedSquare! As always, the calendar is free to download. Thank you Trina so much for your beautiful work!

Hard to believe that RedSquare turns 17 years old today. Thank you to all the members, past current and future who have made this a one stop resource for everything Wheel Horse!

Are the swept axles off a 520 the only ones that will accept a 1" spindle hub? As in, if you have a 520 WITHOUT the swept axle, are they also 1" or are the standard 520 axles 3/4" like the rest of the herd? My situation......I got a free set of wheels/tires that fit 4 bolt trailer hubs, so I decided it was a good time to upgrade the front of my 314-8 to 1" spindles and bolt on hubs. I also scored an almost perfect set of 1" HD spindles, so I have that part covered. What I didn't account for is them not fitting my current axle. I have no desire for a swept axle as I don't need it for my applications and I'm going with larger tires in the front and don't want to potentially deal with steering inference with my front implements. I would rather not buy a bunch of parts just for trial and error if I can help it. Looking at pictures and parts fiche hasn't given me enough info to feel comfortable in a direction. I'm assuming my options are -Buy a 1" 520 swept axle and bolt it on -Buy a 1" 520 non-swept axle IF it is bolt on (I'm assuming they are 3/4", and this won't work) -Drill out my current 3/4" to accept 1" spindle hubs (totally doable, but a little concerned about how much material would be left supporting the front end) -Add 1" axle stubs to my current 3/4" spindle hubs (my least desirable option) -Other??

Excellent Trina and Eric...I know how much work it takes to put this together. I like that you stuck to the 2 horse theme. Enough said. For anybody out there...I think you can take the download to a place like Walgreens and they might be able to print a professional calendar for you. I love Mainers.

I really like # 2 . To quote my neighbor earlier this summer after he blew the engine on his less than 2 year old riding mower and came to me seeking answers : " do you need to check that ? I thought it was filled when it was new " It was a green mower so no big loss....

Interestingly, most people don't have a clue about maintenance. For example: 1. Check safety interlock system. Most people don't know what it is or how to check them. Take action only if the tractor doesn't start. 2. Check oil level. Really? I bet oil gets checked maybe one a year. 3. Battery water level. Most new batteries are sealed, but those that aren't don't get checked. Dead battery? Replace it 4. Check automatic transmission oil level. It goes, I guess it's okay. 5. Looks like I missed #5 so let's skip to 6 6. General equipment condition. Not sure about this one. If nothing is falling off, I guess it's okay. 7. Clean engine chaff screen. Hmm? What's chaff? 8. Lube drive chain. What model has a drive chain? 9. Check tire pressure. Why is my mower cutting too low on one side? I guess something is broken on the deck. Time for a new mower. 10. Check fasteners. Honey, where is my pair of pliers? 11. Check 8-speed oil. Unless there is a dipstick probably not going to happen. Anyway, water in oil goes to the bottom. Hmm, how come my oil level keeps rising? 12. Clean air filter. Engine is running okay, so I guess it's okay. Does this have something to do with that "chaff" stuff? 13. Lubricate chassis. How many homeowners have a grease gun? 14. Lubricate gage wheels. What's a gage wheel? Do I need a grease gun from item 13? 15, 16. Change oil. Really? The oil bottle says good for 100,000 miles. 17. Lube mower spindles. That would require me to remove the deck. I'll wait until they start to squeak. 18. Check brakes. Hmm, not stopping, better get ahold of Bob Maynard and order a lining while they still have free shipping. 19. Clean engine exterior. Maybe I'll do that before winter, maybe not. 20. Change auto trans oil filter. See #4 above. 21. Inspect spark plugs(s). I don't think the average homeowner has spark plug wrench much less feeler gauge. 22. Replace engine oil filter. See #15,16 23. Replace air filter. See #12 24. Replace in-line fuel filter. I don't use dirty gas. I know this is my form of homeowner tractor humor, but it's also probably the reason that decal was never placed on your tractor. Most of us on here don't fall into this category, but...

Alright I guess I will do the Deestone AG and tri rib run down. I have had these tires for 4-5 years now and they all still hold air haven't had any punctures or leaks. Rears are 23x10.5-12 4ply on 7" wide rims and yes they do run small.. quite small they really are only about 8 1/2" wide and 22 and maybe 1/4" high. I was aware they ran small which is why I went with the 10.5. It is a softer rubber and as you can see in the photos it's got some cuts in the rubber probably from dirt plowing. I had bought them on tires-easy.com and the current price is $77.03ea, however those are a load C 6ply. I am happy with them though they do provide the traction I need. Fronts are 4.00-8 4ply tri-ribs on 4" wide rims they are 16" tall and its 3 1/2" from outside rib to outside rib. They look great, provide the typical tri-rib traction when turning. I also bought them on tires-easy and they are currently $31.17ea on there.

Making and welding a support brace on my existing spindles is no concern, I could knock that out in an afternoon in the shop with little to no planning. The part I was referring to was getting the 1" trailer axle stubs and boring them to slide over the 3/4" spindles. I've seen plenty of guys do it, but it usually involves a better fixture setup than I currently have for my drill press, or ideally a metal lathe. I guess I could also just cut the 3/4" spindle off at the wheel and make a support bracket that has an axle stub welded to it. Would have to get the angle perfect or it would screw with the steering......hmm, I'll have to think on it.

BBT n I just recently set one up. It isn't finalized yet but seems to work excellent.

I just use locknuts and lock washers and never had any issue.

Thanks guys…..that confirms my suspicions. I have a new set of adjustable tie rods sitting here waiting to go on as well, so that shouldn’t be an issue. Guess I’m going to go the route of picking up a swept axle and see how things go. The reason I don’t want to go the 1” axle stub route is that it will make everything fit, but doesn’t do anything for beefing things up. I routinely have a pretty healthy amount of weight hanging off the front of my tractor (Johnny bucket or wood chipper). The weak point would still the elbow bend in the 3/4” spindle. I could make and weld in supports like the factory HD spindles, but I don’t have access to a lathe and don’t think I trust trying to drill them out on my press or freehand. To me, it seems the right plan is to beef up the whole thing to 1” and be done with it…..even if that means I get a little tire/implement contact

Parking brake ready to install. Parking brake installed.

I believe that @ebinmaine has done this with some of his tractors.

Grease and oil on the part will slow down the electrolysis by coating the anodes. I try to get that stuff off before dunking. Also, a quick wire brush on the anodes to remove all that crud rejuvenates them!

Tunnel reinforcement plates ready to install. Tunnel reinforcement plates installed along with clips for fuel line and wire harness.

Dip it in water for some lubrication. Old school guys used coca cola but it doesn't really make any difference Crumpled up foil works great for cleaning up chrome.

@Lane Ranger Some of the 37 inch decks used a 6 sided belt. I think it was 6 sided , had a 37 inch deck and found out the price of the belt , gave the deck away.

It's really not a bad job. Remember to be cautious removing all the bolts. TIGHTEN them before you loosen them. Breaks the rust. This will be especially important on the two bolts that go into the sides of the head for the sheet metal and also the head bolts around the exhaust area. Well you've got the head off and the carb off you might as well take a look at the valves and the breather. Only takes a few extra minutes and you're already there.

We don't use bailing wire it's electric fence wire.

Red-Z06 and Handy Don, my trip out to Lincoln’s Shop was very good, i now have a long frame snow blade frame that Lincoln sold me and swapped it out on the spot(from my truck bed), Lincoln was all over my snow blade as soon as i arrived st the shop, we kept the blade that was on my short frame (60” as opposed to the 48” on long frame) my snow blade is exactly what is in the pics you posted RED-Z06, and because of how quick and accurate Lincoln was helping me, the shop got a nice tip from me and i would recommend A to Z Tractor to all with any question about their machine, Great experience from you guys and A to Z , thank you all (when i’m done cleaning up leaves with vacuum system currently on 414-8 on goes my snow blade for winter. Again, I thank you all for helping me🤗

It’s amazing stuff, huh?

I’d say do it on a warm day, maybe even take the belt out of the package for a good amount of time to get the bends out of it?

Picked up some misc needed bolts/hardware over weekend. Getting things together for rat rod Suburban. Got Predator built & tuned. Transmission all cleaned up & painted. Still gotta clean up pulleys & add gear lube. Gonna start to research best way to stop/preserve rust on rest of tractor. I'm really thinking using WD40??

Got the 60" deck removed from the 520-H. Cleaned it up, sharpened the blades, and got it lubed and put up for winter. It's a beast, but it makes quick work of mowing. And leaf round up and shredding part 3 for this year. Part 4 coming soon.

I plan to replace the wear bar on my snow blade. Has anyone got any suggestion for making square holes for the carriage bolts other than my usual drill and file square? I am open to buying a new tool or two to do it since I have multiple snow blades . Also did Toro make a skid for the blade with two slotted holes? I plan to make some, but might consider buying them if they are available. Thanks in advance for your help.

75 yards. Dropped where it stood. Back in blind.

Plucky things, they are, and it’ll serve you for many years with the care you are giving it. 👍

Double-D center hole? 100776 14-1/8" center blade and 100777 12-1/8" left and right blades replaced by 101335 3-blade kit and no longer available from Toro (Hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) 2017 Oregon catalog part number 91-802 12-1/8" and Gator blade 96-632 12-1/8" still available. 101335 blade set available again from Toro June 4, 2019

Just figured out im 3 days older than Redsquare.

OK.. I followed this thread long enough to throw my hat in the ring. I only been installing heat in buildings like this professionally for only 40 years. Learned a few things but forgot a few too... First off anyone tries to heat a shed like this with NO insulation lemme know ... I be the first one to collect them Washington's flying out the doors. Second thing is don't even think about electric heat. Yah them heaters cheap and install cheap and that's what sucks most idiots in at first but bend over when that bill comes. For the privvy ok... not for a structure as this. Not to mention a 200 Amp service is the minimum required. Only two ways electric heat is affordable 1) You are super insuated. 2) You live next to the Hoover dam and are illegally tapped into their power grid. Can't count the times I went on a estimate where the customer had electric and tired of taking it in the shorts. Sounds like your on this property for the long haul EB ... so do it once and do it right. My first choice would be a 90+ efficiency furnace. Sealed combustion and propane fired. Yah getting a tank set and costs but again in it for the long haul? NFPA 54 and propane regulations that follow say that a 120 gallon or less tank can be set next to the building... over that 10 feet away. We know you got the equipment to make that happen. Second choice and probably the best would be a heater such as Bob Maynard recently installed. 50- 80k btu range. I've been known to hold up my thumb and say yah that size looks right. Later years I learned how to properly crunch the numbers. Three heaters? Yer on crack. Get it insulated first. Didn’t I mention that? I don't care who's holding the purse strings. Then we can talk about r values and such nonsense. Third choice would be a pellet stove. I know I know but like gays in the military don't ask don't tell. I pay an extra 40 clams insurance for having solid fuel in my shop. Well worth it. First things first EB ... insulate it first! I take that back... weather seal first. Big difference it those two coins.

I recently discovered my snow plow blade moved leave’s very well, I have thought of a rake or blower but was surprised using a blade. I then mulched with the mower as its faster and seemed to work well.

I got the Charger 12 project welded with the help of my cousins.