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I was at an old friends house today and he has this for now. This is the only second wheel horse with a back hoe I have seen. He made every pice of this one minus the control parts but he still had to put it all together.. Hope you enjoy the picks. He wanted something newer and a auto. This was the third D250 he restored. A master mechanic. The deal was If I helped him sell the three he would rebuild my K181 for me.The Commando I have.

Remember to thank a veteran for their service. 🇺🇸

It’s that time of year when we Marines celebrate our assigned Birthday to take the place of your own. You were born on this day in a small Tavern, so hoist a cold one and drink to all the Marines that have gone before us to stand on the yellow footprints that didn’t make it home, to those serving now in our Corps, to those who will hear the future call of cadence and finally to those of us that once wore the eagle globe and anchor that are still here. Happy Birthday Marines

Mounting a close match patina Schnacke to the 56.

Here is the steering unit assembled Lower steering shaft set into position. Steering unit bolted to frame. Lower steering shaft bolted to steering unit for trial fit. Had to unbolt it and file lower block where it mounts to the steering support block several times until I got to near zero gear lash ( needs a bit in the middle or it binds at the full turn positions). Tie rods installed. Tractor as it sits today.

Worked on the somewhat sloppy steering today. Here is an overview of the parts. This is one of the culprits to loose steering. The pinion gear is loose on the steering shaft. You can see the flats on the gear and shaft. I cut 0.002" shim stock to fit the flats. Here is a shim partly installed on one side. Shim was installed on each flat. Lower steering block also gets worn so I installed a new bushing into that.

Good chance of the corn standing a couple more weeks, based on the amount of water standing with it. It’s still a great view!

Was offered this yesterday, probably go get it over the weekend. That seat is all I wanted! Already have someone interested in the seat-less carcass

Thanks to Kevin posting the above picture of Blackbeard in plowing clothes, I decided that I had better post a few more pictures of the finished product in action… consider these couple of pictures—the finished product shots… Every time I look at this thing and remember that a 9 year old did about 80-85% of the work on the resto, it reminds me that young people are capable of a lot more than we adults ascribe to them at times. Zach opted not to paint the lower arms since they were going to be in the dirt anyway. I got the A-Frame adapter on CC that I picked up years ago. It is perfect for Blackbeard. I never get tired of the grin on this kids face and I hope he never loses it! Someone looks comfortable in that saddle! This is easy ground but Blackbeard did a great job plowing… Zach plowed pretty steadily with it for about 3 hours and he was pleased with the results. Hard to believe that this was a “yard art” plow (a completely rusted, then brush painted black piece, sitting in someone’s flowerbed) that a buddy found for under $50. Zach cleaned it up good, we replaced the necessary fasteners, and 3 hours in sand country have really started the process to a decent shine! NEXT UP??? Time to get a snowblower set up for this. Anyone have a Ber-Vac two stage that you want to sell for a good price? That is the unit that I would like to find for BlackBeard… Next spring, we will have it set up and this kid can help cut the lawn.

Please consider the value you have gained in the information received on the forum… https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/ https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/44351-what-does-the-red-supporter-status-mean/?tab=comments#comment-549205

Working temp of Loctite 640 sleeve retainer is 400F. Should be ok if one takes their time cutting. Maybe Sawzall first, then smooth out with a grinder.

If a hardened steel or grade 8 item is heated to red hot and allowed to cool slowly it can be drilled and tapped. I have done this with broken or stripped out Allen Head set screws.

Looking at getting an idea on pricing for this machine 1 owner 1997 520h. sold new in 1998 has 224 original hours paint, tires , etc look brand new wheel horse wheel weights has a like new toro 2 stage blower, and a cab All was dealer installed in 1998 and has never been off the tractor was used only to snowblower with. Never used to mow Tractor looks and drives like a brand new one what is something like this worth? machine was stored inside all year. Truly a time capsule machine.

A few years back someone gave me a newer TWH mower with a bad transmission. Removed a bunch of parts and the engine ran good and saved whole. I crimped the gas hose and ran it dry.....I thought. It had a newer carb with an anti back fire solenoid valve. Must have shut it off to soon. Turns out the bowl stayed full of gas. You know the good stuff with ethanol. The end result. I was able to save it with a good cleaning.

Yes, I tried to sell it for Chuck at the show this spring. It didn't sell and Chuck couldn't take it with him to Tenn., so we worked a trade for my 953. I did a recon. and have it on my 520. Hoping for some snow this winter to try it out.

I’m pretty late to the party, but I was thinking the same as Dan. Loctite a bolt in there, then drill and tap a new hole.

Thank you to our armed forces men and women! You make this country great!

Today I added a protective cover over the gas cap to help keep the rain / snow out, since the gas tank is now exposed to the elements, I also installed my auger drive pulley on my motor that I've been waiting on, can't wait for snow now, bring it and I'll full send it for sure, lol. I'll post pictures by the weekend on how that came out, only cost me $90 and well worth the wait and money, especially if I had to go and try to find the right one somewhere else. Pretty much wrapping her up now just got a little wiring to do and I still have to find a nice bright light or lights for the front, Also, need to get some rear 5 lug hubs, just haven't come across a donor tractor yet, Thanks again for all the views and reactions, once again !

@ebinmaine I recommend using an E-Z Lok threaded insert. The 1/4-20 internally threaded thin wall insert has an external thread of 3/8-16 and the standard wall insert has an external thread of 7/16-14. Then use a 1/4-20 X 3/4 long dog point set screw for the shifter.

My suggestion would be to silver solder (hard solder) the hole to a slightly smaller size, drill it out to 13/64" and tap to 1/4-20. The threads don't have to withstand a great deal of force so the silver solder threads will hold fine.

Installed a PTO pivot plate assembly from an early 520H with the belt guide welded onto it.

That thing is a beast. It threw the wet snow over an 8 foot privacy fence into the neighbor's yard

Sore but nothing major. Picked up some parts. 2 520h a 418-8 snow plow and a brinley 10" plow. I need to make back 500 bucks quickly on this and need to do some thinking on what to sell and what to keep. I robbed Peter to pay Paul but the 500 that come from the non tractor fund needs replaces. The rest my tractor fund can absorb lol Not keen on running a onan but guess I have 3 now lol.

Woke up the snow horses today and moved them down from the storage shed. These are all originally Charger\Electro 12s. Two are now 16s. All are 10 pinion (the best way to go for snow work). Note the size difference on the plows. Big one is from a D series. I have a short section of driveway with pavers hence the light-foot one in the middle. Haven't needed the blower in 2 years now. Used it last year for a few minutes just to make sure it worked. Thinking of swapping its engine with another one I have. I picked up an Electro a couple year ago that had a K341 small base engine on it. Overhauled the engine and based on recommendations here left out the balance gears. She has an annoying buzzy vibration that when you are using her for a few hours mowing is uncomfortable. Think I will put that engine on the blower and use its engine for a mower. Don't spend much time blowing and when I do heavy gloves and clothes s probably won't feel the vibration. Rubber chains are ok but the are the equivalent of 4 link chains and are a bit bumpy riding and you can't get them for the narrow 6.00x12 tires I prefer. Rear weights are all mounted on Lowell's receiver hitches..no way I would put that weigh on a draw bar hitch. Concentrated weight is best for my plowing. Walters and FWD dedicated plows (as well as airport plows now ) are 4 singles not the 18 wheels Penndot uses.

Yes, same part number. You just use different pre-punched holes for either.

Perfect!!

Got the new to me B80 8 speed going. New seat installed I got at the show this yr. and a 36”deck I refurbished a couple yrs ago. Next on the list is some bigger rear tires .

… that what I was thinking too before I read Dan’s post and beat me to it . Good luck on your venture .

Those tach-a-matics look complete. That era mid mount deck had a funky cam plate that rode in the little cast wheel to keep constant tension on the belt. With the front mount mule drive, a newer style mid mount can be used for newer decks. One of the best features of tractors was the interchangeability of so many attachments! I don’t know my east coast geography very well, but every year on the weekend after Father’s Day there is a “Big Show” in Biglerville, PA at the South Mountain Fairgrounds. We make the drive from MI every year, it’s totally worth it! If you don’t get to it by then, I would be willing to trade you a hole-less hood for that one with the chains. Too much character to change if you ask me! So awesome! I’ve got three daughters, and they are all a blessing in their own way. The oldest isn’t really ours, but she was our German Exchange student 10 years ago when they were 3,5, and 15. We see her as often as we can, and she costs more than the other two combined so we can claim her

Somehow passed over your comment, but thank you! First time parent here. We’re having a little girl due Jan 3rd. I’m excited and nervous, but I have spent the last few years trying to get things in a good place to start a family and it’s the coolest thing ever that the time is here! I don’t know what the heck those chains on the hood are for, but yea it does look kinda bad ass haha. When I get to the restoration ((probably IF with the baby coming soon!)) I’m going to have to figure out how to fill those holes. The fender pan where the seat mounts has 2 holes as well.

Agreeing with @Ed Kennell that it’s a $3k setup. Anyone offering less is looking for a steal or has no clue.

The tractor alone sold for over $5K in 1997. A new cab $1500 and dual blower $2000. If I owned that tractor, I would be looking for $3k. I have a 1500 hour 1988 520H with cab and dual blower that I value at $2K. Just my

Sweet! I know it may be a bit sacrelige, but if I were offered a carcass in unusable shape, I might be tempted to hot rod gasser’up the EV

Eric this holds the shift lever in place? I have a few of the set screws I can send up with the carb!

I grease all moving parts with lucas red and tacky... Any oil to coat the rest.

Interesting thoughts so far. I can pour it safely and I think I have the shrinkage figured out. The weight will weigh about 75 lb +/- . I think the base may pose a problem under rough use due to the soft lead. Maybe a steel base for the lead to rest in would help. I'm trying to address issues such as mentioned before I make the first one. @Wheel Horse 3D made a nice pattern for me to make a mold.

if the hole is already 3/8", a Helicoil would not work. Here is one idea. Thread a grade 5 or less 3/8" allen bolt into the hole and tighten it down. Use some green Loctite sleeve retainer to make sure it is a permanent fixture. Let it dry over night. I suggest an allen bolt because I don't think there will be enough room to tighten down a 9/16" head on a regular bolt. After the Loctite has dried drill a new hole through the bolt and tap it 1/4-20. After you tap the hole, grind the head off from the allen bolt. Should be a permanent fix. No guarantee but should work.

JB Weld won't hold threads very well How about threaded inserts/rivets? Very handy tool to have around and many useful places to use them. Heliciol insert maybe? Yes the hole may need to be bigger but now you can down size the dogpoint https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rivet+threaded&adgrpid=1339205735366040&hvadid=83700598720095&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=51385&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83700723113539%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=5102_13196128&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_yeaorb6x7_e https://www.amazon.com/s?k=helicoil+kit&crid=1SFGGY4MW8ES7&sprefix=helicoil%2Caps%2C103&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_8

Great picture, awesome place to learn stuff! When we visit places along the eastern part of the states, I like to remind the kids how fast we travel, but wars were won and lost on that soil, carrying not just a gun, but survival supplies, often in the coldest of cold, through nasty terrain, in all times of night and day. The history books that kids learn from in schools don’t explain the physical hardships of times, places, etc. Presidents have stood there, historical figures have eat, slept, fought and died there. Soak it in. I know Josh that you have that knack for painting a picture. I don’t doubt that your children understand the depths of the story. But this is a tractor thread so I’ll post this

Maybe it’s just me, I think we are way over thinking this. Figure the depth from the top surface, center the bit to the large opening with an eyecrometer, drill away.

The 1/8" roll pin that connects the left lever to the cross shaft has been known to shear and cause clutch problems.

I bet a center punch, steady hand (or drill press) and going slow, most anyone could get it centered so the dog point screw can do it’s thing.

Sounds like your belt brakes are not working properly. Check to make sure you have full movement on your belt tension pulley, and that tension pulley bearings are good. Check the belt brake tabs on you belt guard make sure they are close to the belt when it is tight. All of the belt brakes should be with in 1/16" or less from the belt. There may be a belt brake on the tension pulley as well.

Good info, thanks! If I can somehow make the show, I am definitely on for that deal! Looks like it’s about 7 hours away! I’ll make sure to keep the chain around. Looks like some field you have there! I love that you were able to bring your whole family in on the wheel horses. I’m hoping to find the way to guide my daughter to my interests too, which means getting her to listen to AC/DC and taking up guitar or drums haha. That said, I know she’ll be who shes gonna be and I’ll all for it. About 55 days to go!

I’m wondering about two things: - getting the newly-drilled hole straight and in the right place - the heat of cutting off the extra part of the Allen screw could soften the Locktite and cause the screw to shift

As @Pullstart notes, the mid-hitch you have is complete but was only around for a couple of years. The PTO belt went directly downward from the engine and then under the tractor to the deck. The newer decks have the PTO belt going forward to the mule (on the front hitch) which carries it around the front axle, and from there rearward to the deck. So the real question to you is: What deck do you plan to use? The hitch you have will physically hold certain decks (if they are complete with all their parts!) "as is" (@gwest_ca might be kind enough to post the “compatibility” list 🙂). The newest decks’ suspension systems require the newer style of mid-hitch that has a different lock/release mechanism (the deck suspension has a fork that fits over the lock release shaft). Changing would mean drilling one additional hole in the frame between the two existing holes on each side. Pictures and model info on any deck you have will help a lot!

It's that new government mandated granular gasoline. Runs great! Yes, nice save. Pays nowadays to retain whatever original parts that you can.

I'll try to remember to post what I do here.