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Who knew ! Downtown Burlington, Vermont!

So that's where our minimal supporter dues go... fancy pants, wing tip, downtown primo deluxe office space...! Not.

Here’s some of the work it took to get Jackie turning dirt last weekend!

Do multiples count?

Today I took a little road trip to @kpinnc’s stables and carried the K341 with me to remove the balance gears. @Lee1977 (Don) dropped by too. The balance gears had a little slop in them but Kevin said they weren’t real bad. I wanted them out regardless. We also cleaned the valve stems up and lapped the valves. When a few gaskets come in that I ordered I will begin putting the K341 back together. First the carb will get a cleaning. Don let me drive his 1980 Hi-Lux 4x4 Toyota Pick Up to Bojangles for some grub and it was a real treat as I had not driven a stick in a long time. It took me back to when I was driving my 1981 Hi-Lux 4x4. Thanks a lot Kevin and Don !

Looks fine from here. At least you still use it! Very few man made items these days still in use after 50+ years. Paint fades... But the deck still works!

The seat has been wobbly on my GT-1848 for quite a while, and the bad habit of putting a hand and lots of weight on the seat back when getting on and off had made it worse, so I decided it was time to see what was going on. The metal was cracked on both sides where the cross brace that the seat hinges attach to (sorry, no picture, but I'm guessing most of you have seen this kind of damage before). I thought about welding some new metal on there, but realized that I had a cross brace that went further up to reach the next set of holes, so I went with that. While I had the seat and fender off I replace the mangled hydro fan, cleaned and lubed the hydro linkage and fins, and dropped a new seat on it. I also had found this old toolbox which I painted red, made a bracket for it and mounted it on the fender. I think this will come in handy. [ yeah, I know the deck looks bad - this is the worst of 3 48" SD's I have, been using it out in the fields. It will probably get some TLC this winter.... oh, and a WH logo will eventually replace or cover up the B&S logo the PO put on the Honda engine. ] No pictures on this yet but I did some work on my 417-H steering column, and started fabbing a motion pedal for it.

On the 68 commando is the same but has a silver ring on the out side of the emblem. Do your self a favor and junk the seat or give it to a JD owner. Just my

Thought @Sparky posted a pic of that a while back too. I haven't been up there for about 10-12 years now but loved it when I was there. Nice clean and safe. There were families walking around with kids at 7-8:00 at night. Lots to do and the area is beautiful.

Yeah so I swapped out batteries, poured some fresh gas in it, turned the key and it started right up. Let it sit there and run for a few minutes, climbed on, pressed the clutch/ brake pedal to the floor, shifted into 1st and it took right off. Appears to have no brake and with my foot still holding the pedal down didn't seem to disengage the drive belt.....weeeeeeee. Going to have look further into it tomorrow. At least it runs.

@Lane Ranger What’s an Indiana boy doing way up there?

Model number and serial number off the data decal required to get the correct manuals.

You did the right thing, those bearing weren't going to get any better on their own.

I would like to have a Craftsman tool box like the mid box. I have put off getting one, and now you can’t find them…

Have you tried it out yet ?

The magnets are trash because you hit it.

I did level it front to back, but couldn’t get the deck to go any lower. Figured it out. The nut on the height adjustment was not all the way down. Leveled and working correctly! New set of blades ordered!

Uncle Jim’s food plot is deceiving. It’ll chew you up and spit you out if you’re not careful!

Part of a restoration or a customization or a modification just might include tires right? One of our members @sjoemie himself suggested we set up a dedicated area for tire info similar to the one we have dedicated for paint info. Not trying to start a huge tire discussion but a place to go and read real specs on a particular tire. Example post would be: a/ You post a tire you purchased. b/ You post up its actual size after being mounted and what size wheel it’s on. c/ How many plies? Does it ride soft/hard? d/ Obviously we want a picture or three . e/ If bought new share where bought and about what they cost. f/ Give us your honest opinion. Like em ?Hate em ? Indifferent ? g/ If you went with a different size than stock was there any clearance issues? Manufacturers info is great but it can be misleading and sometimes not factual. Face it, they just want to sell tires and will say whatever they must to promote their product. This will provide a place to get real world info on tires from our forum members to help you make a decision before you buy. I’m going to pin this so it isn’t lost as I don’t expect it to be posted to daily.

Let me just say right up front I've not been a fan of aftermarket carbs from overseas for quite awhile. Most of you know that. I've seen at LEAST 5 or 6 bad imported carbs in person now. I've tried to be as open minded as possible with the "isave" brand for several reasons. I like Norman as a person. I REALLY appreciate what he's trying to do for us and old iron in general. I really want(ed) to believe the Big Block Kohler replacement carbs would work. It's a local company to me. I now have the second carb from isavetractors that's ... "had issues." This one has worn out the upper throttle shaft bore in very short order. Why? I can only theorize having no knowledge of metallurgy. It seems to be that the aluminum body MAY be softer than OE (?????) It's not repairable because the upper bore step doesn't have a compatible washer to insert and it's actually bored a tiny bit off center. Other things NEED to be noted for someone considering a purchase on a 14 HP or 16 HP. The inside diameter of the center bore is MUCH smaller than the original equipment Kohler #30 carb. This means IT IS NOT the universal replacement I was led to believe. OE is approximately .9 inches. isavetractors carb is approximately .75 inches. That's a pretty serious difference. For most daily operations I believe that would be ok. For actual "work" perhaps not. Another thing to be aware of is the fastening method and size of the throttle plate. Note the excessive hole for the screw holding the plate to the shaft. This apparently caused the original builder to have difficulty aligning the plate to the bore. It was binding. Also, the screw is held in only with a lock washer. ... until it isn't. No Loctite. If you're considering purchasing one of these aftermarket carbs I won't tell you one way or another. It's your money. It's your tractor. Just wanted to share my experiences and thoughts.

I bought two of the China junk carbs several years ago on . The body was a #26 (10 to 12 HP) and the main jets were larger than should have been on a # 26, probably for a #30 (14 to 16 HP) I put it on a ten HP engine and it ran like junk and couldn't be adjusted. I pulled it apart and used the needle and seat from an old carb as well as the float and it ran well after that. The way it was built the only thing universal was the likelihood that it would operate poorly on any engine it was installed on. As an aside, KOHLER diesel, gasoline, alternative fuel, and marine engines are made in Mississippi and Wisconsin with parts made in China Chances are the OEM parts from Kohler are all made in China but quality control is a bit better.

More parts sanded and painted.

I got an email from ISaveTractors saying my order had shipped. Can’t wait to get the K341 put back together…

Send a personal message to all the Texas members to see if they are interested or list it in our classified section, pictures are helpful.

Installed the rear taillights today finished up wiring everything and then started working on building a belt guard. Roughed it out and will fine tune it with belt sander.

The C did have a wide front option. The later Bs did have the 5 bolt wheel center because of the spline coming loose. Also the B rear end final drives are narrower than the C

We had a great time yesterday afternoon, we need to do it more often.

Dash is done. Choke, lights, start, and stop.

NIIIIICE.

Find an auto parts store that makes paint. See if they have a spectrophotometer. Take a good panel off and have them shoot it with the meter and they will come up with a formula to put in a spray can. Your paint has faded over the years and no off the shelf paint will match exactly.

I usually ID a B from a C by the wheel hubs. The C had 5 bolt hubs on the rear axle. On a B, the cast center of the rear rim had splines and was held on to the splined axle with a single nut. This system was prone to wear.

Learning my way around this thing! All making sense now....I think the clutch is working properly...I just wasn't used to the "gas spring" feeling. I can hear it working and it sounds like it should, I'll just leave that alone for now. Greased all the zerks I could find today as well. Transmission and engine oil both look brand new/very clean and correct levels. I'll put the new blades on when they come on Wednesday and go ahead and order new belts to have those ready when needed. What's the best place to buy parts for this thing and also download parts diagrams? Ver impressed with the engineering/design of the WH....everything is so simple and well thought out. Built like a little tank too!

Certainly depends what you’re going to be using it for. That said I have a B2620 Kubota with a FEL and 60” belly mower, and 4’ tiller that has been a great tractor for my uses. I mow about an acre and a half with it pretty much weekly if not more. Very dependable machine. Easy on diesel too.

The Model B was too small to work two crop rows at once. Allis-Chalmers briefly adapted the Allis-Chalmers Model WC as the RC from 1938 to 1941, but it proved expensive, so the B was adapted with wider wheel spacing options, a larger engine, and additional fuel options. The Model C used the RC's 125-cubic-inch (2,050 cc) Allis-Chalmers 4-cylinder engine, with gasoline and distillate fuel options. The C inherited the B's three-speed transmission, power take-off and hydraulics.[1][2][3][4] 84,020 Model Cs were built at the Allis-Chalmers plant in West Allis, Wisconsin. In 1949 a Model C sold for about $1,200.[3] Model CA[edit] Starting in 1949, the Model C was replaced by the Model CA, with greater power, allowing it to be rated as a two-plow tractor. The engine remained the same, but turned at a higher RPM and had a higher degree or compression, yielding 11 percent more power. It was provided with a new four-speed transmission, and power assist rear wheel adjustment was introduced. The CA was produced with single and narrow dual wheel front ends, and an adjustable wide front axle.[5][6][4] 39,499 CAs were produced at West Allis until 1958, with a 1958 price of about $1,900

Randy, If you haven't found it yet, a good AC forum is https://www.allischalmers.com/FORUM/forums.html Someone above mentioned a wide front "C", that may have been a "B" which was a "C" but with a wide front. Same engine, trans, etc, but just a wide front. But there may have been a kit from the factory to convert a C to a wide front.

Yup - on my Commando 800 I picked up locally in 2015.....

Yup, I did auto glass and auto body for 35 years and there are some wicked sharp body panels on vehicles!!! Have had the stitches to prove it! Glad you are doing okay with it!! Randy

I'd add to that, the rear wheels determine cutting height, but the knob can be used to limit how far the deck can fall. If you have gopher holes in your yard, you don't need to scalp the grass every time one of the wheels hits a hole. With the deck at mowing height, use the knob to take up most of the slack and you can float right over the holes.

Correct, pressure relief valve is in the control valve. It is set at 3500psi once it reaches that pressure it bypasses thru the valve into the return line to the tank. The gauge is there just to see how hard it is working.

Nice! Those rear 10” wheels are what I used for the front of my big tire 552 project.

Here you go @Pullstart. I didn't get any of you on the big field. IMG_3894.mp4 IMG_3895.mp4 IMG_3897.mp4

Had this one out for tire measurements so why not a couple snap shots ..

I’ll go first. These are Carlisle All-Trails. One is 23x8 and the other is 23x10.5. They do not offer a 9 or 9.5 wide tire. Can’t really comment on todays cost as I bought the 10.5’s many many years ago online for about $80 each. The 8.0’s came on a machine C-100 I bought as a parts machine. The brand new rear Carlisle’s were what caught my eye. Excellent traction! They do not shred my lawn unless I spin them. They are both a 4 ply tire so just a bit stiffer than a 2 ply. I feel that less plies equal better traction. Height: I measured them with 6.5 pounds in the narrow ones and 4.5 in the wide ones. Narrows are 22.5” and the wides are 22” tall. This measurement was taken sitting in the pavement with all the tractor weight on them plus the wide ones have 75#’s of cast iron on each wheel. Narrows are mounted on standard 7” wheels and the wide ones are on 8.5” wheels I love these and would recommend them to anyone wanting better traction than turfs and something less aggressive than AG’s. Edit: forgot about width. The 8.0’s are actually more like 8.5” wide. Again, height and width are affected by the wheel used.

It was a great day to be a plow dog in Wisconsin! Jackie decided to run a bunch of oil out of the transmission input shaft (Model A Ford transmission) but other than @jeremi3210’s boy Jacob’s blue RJ58, he was the last one plowing today in Jim’s (not really a food plot but we saw some does) food plot! Another HUUUUGE thank you to Ciiiiiiinnnnnndaaaaaaaaayyyy!!!!!, Uncle Jim @WHX??, and Dan @Achto for an amazing weekend in Cheeseland!

I got her dirty. I guess I'll have to clean her tomorrow.

So today I renewed my supporter status for another 2 years. That got my head right to work on the decarboning of the head on the K341. Last night I placed an order to isavetractors for: 1. Head gasket (with fire ring) 2. Points cover gasket 3. Breather cover gasket 4. Oil pan gasket 5. Spark plug 6. Points and condenser 7. Points push rod When I read the service manual, I read- clean the combustion chamber with a piece of wood or a plastic scraper. What it said was clean the head and combustion chamber with a piece of wood or plastic scraper. What I did… Cleaned the head with a brass brush, sandpaper, and very gently with a putty knife.After I got the inside part of the head as clean as I could I got a piece of granite and taped some 180 grit sandpaper to it. The I made fifty strokes in one back and forth direction, rotate 90 degrees, 50 strokes, rotate, repeat. I did this until I got down to a smooth finish. Then I switched to 400 grit and did the same. After that I cleaned the top of the piston and valves with a plastic scraper, and vacuumed it good… anything else you guys would do ? What do you think… good enough ?

The wiring had some repairs from a PO that is questionable… Will not be molested by me… maybe some heavy petting though… 😆

Gentlemen, Today I repaired the leaky plastic gas tank on the ‘69 Charger 12 by drilling out the old outlet, installing a bushing and shutoff valve, cutting the dash pan hole wider, and adding a fuel filter. I just acquired this tractor and am dedicating it to being my “mower” and will dedicate the ‘68 Charger 12 I have for “tractor stuff”. This ‘69 needs work, but thankfully mowing season is coming to an end so I can get this horse sorted out by spring time.

Well I had the gall to go to work today and leave the Trina person to her own devices. She dragged her Momma person out to shopping and came home with several interesting things. One of them was a 6 x 8 foot roll of AstroTurf. The two of them sliced it up and laid down stair treads and a piece on the landing that sets about a third of the way up. From now on there will be no street shoes allowed in the dojo.