Leaderboard
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/21/2023 in all areas
-
7 pointsI built the lift arm quadrant based off of pictures from Lowell @wheelhorseman and guessed my way through the lift arm geometry. We stuck it in the dirt last night and things went very well! The new lever was the best I could do to replicate the original, but I sleeved the inside with 3/8 plate all the way to the handle and also made the pin greasable. I did borrow the top cap/end from the original, it was just too cool not to.
-
6 pointsI use the foot switch for safety and also for accuracy. Once you center punch for the hole to be drilled you can get the drill bit into the center punch dimple with the press off then start it and drill away. I mounted a light up in the drill press to light up the work area and wired it into the switch on the front of the drill press that was no longer used.
-
6 pointsCleaning / going through my new 56’
-
5 pointsStarted taking apart Suburban rat rod project. Need to get shelf built in garage 1st to put the RJs & Suburban on. I need the room to work on the Suburban
-
5 pointsI’ve been getting Jackie all fixed up for plow day. Today’s the day to see if things will work like they did in the 40’s!
-
4 pointsHaunted trail tonight... Niece and nephews had a great time going to and from the trail on the SL&WHN RR. Oh, they enjoyed the trail too...!
-
4 pointsFirst off a Big Thanks to Wallfish for the blinky light, I really appreciate the help. All finished with the rear now as far as that goes, gotta get her off the bench and finish her up, ie. wiring, switches and dashboard covering. Still waiting on my drive pulley for the blower and looking into a bigger battery with more cranking amps to supply the needs of the tractor, lol. Hopefully everything goes well this winter and there's not a lot of ( now what's that noise or where's that smoke coming from, or even better now why won't you start lmfao ). Fingers crossed, once I get her down off the bench, I'll be running her through a lot of tests and double checking things before snow flies. I appreciate all the likes and comments, hope everyone else's projects are going smooth as this one is for me, Thank God For Spare Parts ! LOL
-
4 pointsActually I agree with this idea. Although I could rebuild the engine on my own and at one time had students do that I have very little interest in doing it now. I have reached out to an automotive teacher I used to work with to see if he might be interested in the project. Waiting to hear back.
-
4 pointsTurns out it was in our manuals section. Seems the older (prior to 1983) points push rods were aluminum and wore down over time. If it is not worn below 1.50" length and 0.84" diameter you should be able to use the old one. When Installing 47 150 03-S breaker points on engines below Serial #13007371 (Early 1983 production), always use new push rod 41 411 01-S The minimum length of Kohler engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 ignition points pushrod is 1.500" and maximum length is 1.550" (new) Used pushrod to be no less than .184" in diameter and 1.500" in length
-
3 pointsReady to go to test tommorow and try it out for its first day of work.
-
3 pointsYes, I had one I had to drill out the end cap holes and use the mounting bolts from the old starter. I have several from DB Electrical with no issues.
-
3 pointsThe tire wheel combo looks so good! I can’t believe how smoothly the deck runs!
-
3 pointsBit more work today. I made the steel sub frame for the door. Made hinge plates to bolt the hinges to the wooden wall plate, threaded M6. Made hinge plates to weld to the sub frame. All fitted to see how it all works. There are a few tweaks needed and everything needs cleaning up ready for painting. The hinge plates actually support the rear edge of the sub frame, which was a happy accident. Angle grinder out tomorrow to clean up all the welds and get her ready to prime.
-
3 points
-
3 points516-H, 42" rear discharge deck
-
3 pointsUnfortunately that puter took a crap, and I no longer have pics of that set up. I had 2 1964 Lawn Boy snow blowers mounted to the front of a 656. It was a fun project, but not practical at all. To begin with a 2.5 HP snow blower will barely blow snow out of it's own way. Second of all, 2 snow blowers mounted on the front of a tractor is VERY heavy. Lifting them and steering the tractor, was a major problem. To top that off, the noise level was deafening. Like I said, fun project, but not practical at all.
-
3 pointsI went to full synthetic diesel oil a few years back. I like the full syn in air cooled engine because of the better heat transfer. Also, it has high zinc content for anti wear. And I also have a lot of machines and wanted to keep it simple on the oil side, Winter or Summer
-
3 pointsThis is what i've used for years, year round, in my 10 hp Kohler.
-
2 pointsIt was a great day to be a plow dog in Wisconsin! Jackie decided to run a bunch of oil out of the transmission input shaft (Model A Ford transmission) but other than @jeremi3210’s boy Jacob’s blue RJ58, he was the last one plowing today in Jim’s (not really a food plot but we saw some does) food plot! Another HUUUUGE thank you to Ciiiiiiinnnnnndaaaaaaaaayyyy!!!!!, Uncle Jim @WHX??, and Dan @Achto for an amazing weekend in Cheeseland!
-
2 points
-
2 pointsMany of the replacement starters on the market aren't built to last. I would suggest contacting I Save Old Tractors or DB Electric and stay away from
-
2 pointsTook the motor generator apart to check it out and while it was apart I drilled and tapped new regulator mounting holes to move the regulator terminals away from the gas tank.
-
2 pointsSo today I renewed my supporter status for another 2 years. That got my head right to work on the decarboning of the head on the K341. Last night I placed an order to isavetractors for: 1. Head gasket (with fire ring) 2. Points cover gasket 3. Breather cover gasket 4. Oil pan gasket 5. Spark plug 6. Points and condenser 7. Points push rod When I read the service manual, I read- clean the combustion chamber with a piece of wood or a plastic scraper. What it said was clean the head and combustion chamber with a piece of wood or plastic scraper. What I did… Cleaned the head with a brass brush, sandpaper, and very gently with a putty knife.After I got the inside part of the head as clean as I could I got a piece of granite and taped some 180 grit sandpaper to it. The I made fifty strokes in one back and forth direction, rotate 90 degrees, 50 strokes, rotate, repeat. I did this until I got down to a smooth finish. Then I switched to 400 grit and did the same. After that I cleaned the top of the piston and valves with a plastic scraper, and vacuumed it good… anything else you guys would do ? What do you think… good enough ?
-
2 points
-
2 pointsLOL Baffles ? There's none of those in this muffler. I just drilled the two holes in the side of the main pipe for the existing pipe to fit into, capped one end and drilled the other for the tail pipes and honestly it sounds great still has that smooth Onan sound. It's not loud as you may think, but I'm almost deaf in one ear and the other ear has tinnitus so the ringing supersedes everything else lol. I used electrical 1" conduit for the piping and had the 3" piece for the muffler itself just laying around. Best thing I've found is just experiment with some piping, just don't weld it up completely until you've found the sound you're looking for. I personally like loud but smooth especially in the winter because the snow drowns out a lot of the noise, but the neighbors still know I'm out there, lol. Remember when you're building a muffler, go big on the main section but smaller on the exit pipes. If you go too big you're allowing more noise to escape as well. Just my opinion, I'm sure other people will have their way, this is what I've found out over the years. Good Luck !
-
2 points
-
2 points@ebinmaine , On my 16 hp Briggs opposed, I used a NAPA GOLD 2359. approx. 7 inches outside dia. approx. 2-1/4 tall I forgot to get the inside diameter. Do you want me to get it for you ?
-
2 pointsNewer engines have lots of plastic parts. Use what they recommend
-
2 pointsI think it's about time you changed the oil in your push mower!
-
2 pointsGood advice about completely sealed bearings. They be sold also here with a so called „ lifetime greasing“ Now ya know what they‘re meaning with „ Lifetime“..... The dust of grease inside should reduce the lifetime to be as short as possible. Newerdays it is called „ planned obsolescence“
-
2 pointsKohler parts shows same crankshaft kit number for both engines. 47 142 02. All magnum singles have ball bearing so the PTO end thrust is not an issue
-
2 points@ri702bill Thanks for the tip about @richmondred01.
-
2 pointsYep I can rebuild yours or I have a few m10 and m12s waiting to be rebuilt to order. 8-10 day turnaround. PM me for details.
-
2 pointsTractor yes... Me still to be determined.
-
2 pointsYou might be better served to determine the cause of the oil burning . broken or worn rings clogged breather
-
2 pointsShe looks great. You made the right choice.
-
2 pointsI see the rod on back of deck now. Will lever correctly and get to cutting!
-
2 pointsOne more suggestion; bolt down a bar across the drill press table so that the workpiece will contact it and prevent rotation. Of course the bar would need to be moved or removed depending on the job.
-
2 pointsI recall reading that the ignition points configuration was changed and if the newer style point were used a newre push rod was needed. Can't remember where I saw that.
-
2 pointsI also use the Rotella T1 30 weight for the summer months then use the T4 10W30 for the winter months. Makes starting easier when the temp outside is around zero.... A good excuse to change the oil twice a year... Bill
-
2 pointsI think it's the same filter used on some Vanguard Engine models. It may be available at TSC, possibly Lowe's or Home Depot too.
-
2 pointsDecks are sized by their width of cut - not the width of the deck. 42" side discharge Drive belt 102742 replaced by 94-2501 (1/2" x 103") [108834 is wrong in the belt chart for 1996 and 1997] Spindle belt 6738 (1/2" x 86") [106125 is wrong in the belt chart for 1996 and 1997]
-
2 pointsThanks for all the kind replies. Mom is doing MUCH better. We've had more testing this week and no UTI and other results are coming back good as well. She seems to be enjoying folks she has met and in better spirits. For sure she is eating much better that when at home. i suspect she will be cleared to begin driving her pickup next week. We've cleared all of the food from her home (gave it to the grandkids) and are slowly setting up her apartment at the assisted living. I suspect she will be staying in assisted living as long as her health permits. We will keep her home with it's furnishings until next spring before making any decisions about it.
-
2 pointsWhen extending the 700psi hydraulics on an Eaton 1100 to have two remotes, I discovered a nice copper alloy brake line in ⅜” diameter. Not cheap, for sure, but good value. Easily bent and working pressure of 900psi (burst at 1300 I think?). Easily bent and flared for JIC fittings. And no rust!
-
2 pointsI agree with @953 nut. It might not be as simple as one oil for summer and one oil for winter for all your different engines. It would be best to see what the manufacturer suggests for each engine and go from there. Especially since you have several 2020 era engines that could be equipped with overhead cams and valves and have tighter engine tolerances. They each could require specific oils to keep them properly lubricated. -JD-
-
2 pointsHad a little talk with my neighbor… she was complaining about my tractors making noise… nice lady…
-
2 pointsThe new hinges have arrived and they are very solid. I've made a small version of the flap to see how the hinges fit and work.
-
2 points1964 Wheel Horse 854 - For Sale The Story - This tractor has been in my family since the mid-1980's and was originally used for mowing and plowing. At one point during the late 1980's the engine was rebuilt, and it has been a strong runner ever since. After a few years of use, a 2nd mower (larger deck) was purchased and this tractor has been used for snow plowing or towing a trailer ever since. I am trying to find a new home for it, with someone who will appreciate and care for it long term (rather than just trying to dump it on FB Marketplace for someone to tear up). We do really like the tractor and have a soft spot for it since it still works really well (not many people a still clearing snow with a nearly 60-year old tractor). At this point it is a bit too large for our driveway, and a snowblower is better suited to us (so the wife can use it). Runs good (mainly used for plowing) Includes: Original Manual Plow, Mowing Deck (not used in years), Rear Wheel Chains and Trailer (dump capable) Selling Tractor, Trailer and Accessories together (Will not sell individual Pieces) Please let me know if you have any questions on the tractor. Local Sale/Pick-up Only Price = $500.00 (or reasonable offer) Contact - Chris (815) 624-2827 ruper02@charter.net
-
2 pointsGentlemen, Today I repaired the leaky plastic gas tank on the ‘69 Charger 12 by drilling out the old outlet, installing a bushing and shutoff valve, cutting the dash pan hole wider, and adding a fuel filter. I just acquired this tractor and am dedicating it to being my “mower” and will dedicate the ‘68 Charger 12 I have for “tractor stuff”. This ‘69 needs work, but thankfully mowing season is coming to an end so I can get this horse sorted out by spring time.
-
2 pointsHere’s just a couple…..
.jpg.8ca755f0175140fd974a8b033d7f3501.thumb.jpg.71f06ed90f3a14a3b565d8387e418b61.jpg)
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-05:00